BMW 3G EWS alarm-coding keyfobs-SOLVED!!

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komis
Joined: Wed 01 Dec, 2004 11:18
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  Z3 roadster 2.8

BMW 3G EWS alarm-coding keyfobs-SOLVED!!

Post by komis » Wed 13 Apr, 2005 10:07

After spending countless nights pondering why my freaking alarm won't work and why it won't learn to recognise my keyfobs, after having searched on every single forum I could think of, after trying those TotalBMW mag instructions 4 times to no avail and after nearly splashing out £120+1hours labour at the local dealers to get it fixed, I finally found a solution (full credit to mr MunichParts on the roadfly.org e36 forum), which worked perfectly. And was free (most importantly).
Everything now works amazingly well, alarm arms and disarms with nice bleeps and even the indicators flash when you (dis)activate it too :)))) I'm so so so pleased...
So here goes:

**EDIT (as I notice some confusion over the years)**
Follow steps 1-5 only if:
- your car has been locked with the alarm armed (i.e. you lock and activate the alarm through the keyfob),
- following the lock & alarm activation, your battery goes flat and you find that your remotes have been "unlearned" by the car while still locked with the alarm activated.

While the alarm in the "armed" mode, it cannot be disarmed without instruction from a known keyfob. The problem that occurs when the aforementioned events take place is that when the alarm is in the "armed" mode, it cannot learn new keyfobs and hence you can't reprogram your existing (or any other) keyfobs to make it work.

Follow steps 5 onwards if your car has somehow "unlearned" the remotes but your battery hasn't gone flat with the alarm still in "armed" mode, or if you simply want to code a new remote alongside your existing one. Try steps 5-9 FIRST and only if it doesn't work, look at steps 1-5.

** END OF EDIT **

If your battery's gone dead and the alarm "forgets" your keyfobs, here's how you recode them:
1) remove glove box
2) pull out alarm control unit and remove receiver module from it. This will reveal 8 pins. Do not unplug control unit. When you do this, the alarm will go off and you will look like a fool, but don't worry, be patient for 30 secs and it will stop.
3) Close the car's doors and sit in the car (actually you need to ensure that doors, trunk and bonnet are all shut). Take a short length of wire (ends exposed) and short pins 1(bottom) to pin 6(3rd from top). This will cause your doors to lock.
4) Now short pin 1 to pin 8 and this will cause the doors to unlock. The alarm is now disactivated (this is the equivalent of a known keyfob sending a command to the alarm to disarm and also open the doors).
5) On the receiver module, there is a soft rubber blob that covers the coding switch, you need to remove this. Also, gently pull apart the cover of the receiver module and flick the coding switch to the right, this prepares the module for "learning" your remotes.
6) Reassemble the receiver module (dont put the blob back yet) and reconnect with the alarm control unit.
7) Press the red button on your remote. You will observe that it has been recognised. Press the red buttons on any other remotes you have so the alarm can learn them too.
8) With a long instrument (eg. pencil), flick the coding switch back to the left. Replace blob, get out of car, check the alarm works, replace glovebox.
9) Smile, you saved yourself a nice bunch of cash.
Last edited by komis on Tue 26 Apr, 2011 20:38, edited 2 times in total.
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kelart
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  Z3 roadster 1.9
Location: East End

Post by kelart » Sat 16 Jul, 2005 01:59

and this is how i'm gonna spend my saturday :idea: :rtm:
must try you trick, before i spend money on cliffor or toad :cry:
kris

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kelart
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  Z3 roadster 1.9
Location: East End

Post by kelart » Sat 16 Jul, 2005 14:09

komis, i took my glove box apart, but i don't have any idea what to do with the alarm module :shock: there's one black box on top (ZV module), one box with three connectors (lloks like central locking or something), and two slim boxes. there's also space for another box at the botom. i mean - i've got an empty bracket there. if the module supposed to be the bottom one, i've got nothing in there! perhaps that;s why my alarm doesn't work?
kris

Fixer
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Post by Fixer » Sat 16 Jul, 2005 15:32

kelart

Remove your gear stick gator and have a look up front see if your alarm box is there mine was.


Fixer

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kelart
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Location: East End

Post by kelart » Sat 16 Jul, 2005 19:59

cheers!.
probably i'm going to ruin interior trim completely this time. it's just doesn't fit snug anymore. well, one more try befor i go hunting for an alarm on ebay.
kris

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komis
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  Z3 roadster 2.8

Post by komis » Sat 23 Jul, 2005 15:22

Sorry for the late reply.. the alarm module should be sitting on that empty bracket!

I'm afraid I don't have a decent pic of what it should look like but if you look at the totalBMW's magazine article you should see it
http://www.totalbmwmag.co.uk/HandsOn/TechMay04.pdf

Do you have a LED on the front of the dash along with the rest of the switches? Does the LED work? Tell us more details so we can help you!
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kelart
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Location: East End

Post by kelart » Sat 23 Jul, 2005 15:34

yes, there's a LED (different than i've seend on photos, though), but it doesn't work at all. empty bracket is still empty and there's nout under the gaitor.
kris

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Paul.Stuhlfelder
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Post by Paul.Stuhlfelder » Tue 02 May, 2006 00:59

I can confirm that this works. (from step 5 onwards anyway!)

To get to the alarm module (if it is behind the glovebox.) you'll need an 8mm socket set & philips screwdriver. You'll need to remove the plastic framework that holds some of the other modules. There are two 8mm bolts facing upwards. And one at the back facing the bonnet.

You should be able to loosen them and then jiggle the frame out. The alarm should then be accessible by removing the two philips screws that hold the metal plate in place.

The wiring can be tight though, so be careful ;)
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Silverspoon
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Location: aberdeen

Post by Silverspoon » Tue 24 Oct, 2006 21:04

Since waiting from April I now have acquired a new fob. I have tried the instructions but they aren't working for me.

The box in the engine bay had they ket set to the "off" position. So as I had the key I switched it to the on. As I closed the bonnet the siren went off (no indicators flashed). Alarm went off after 30 sec as per instructions. I then pulled module out, alarm went off again. Switched off again after 30 sec. I closed the door, no alarm. Then tried short circuting as per instructions. However could not get the doors to lock or unlock.

Also which way are the pins up top and bottom? As they are not numbered I do not know what you are classing as the top or bottom.

Thanks

Silverspoon
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Post by Silverspoon » Tue 24 Oct, 2006 21:08

Oh and I have an LED on the dash next to the dials. It has always changed between constant and flashing when I'm either driving or parked up. In order to drive around I have just switched the engine bay box back to off at present. Does this key switch off the alarm or just silence the siren? At present i do not know if the alarm is set or not! No indicators have ever flashed throughout all this fiddling

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komis
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  Z3 roadster 2.8

Post by komis » Wed 25 Oct, 2006 09:41

The engine bay box switches the siren on-off.

I'm not sure I understand what are you trying to do exactly.. Are you just trying to get an additional keyfob programmed into your alarm system? If so, you need to follow steps 5 and on ONLY.

The problem I had with mine is that apparently the battery had ran out or had been disconnected with the alarm activated- hence the system was still in "armed" mode, but due to the power drain, it "forgot" the codes for the keyfobs. It is not possible to program keyfobs into the system until the system is disarmed. Shorting the pins emulates a press from a programmed keyfob and thus disarms the system, so you can then program your keyfobs in.

If I can remember correctly, I called Pin 1 the one which is at the outermost of the module... but I could be wrong, it's been a while!! Anyway I had to try it out both ways as well and I didn't break anything, so I figure it doesn't matter what side you start off with, really.
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Silverspoon
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Post by Silverspoon » Wed 25 Oct, 2006 09:48

When i bought my car, there was no key fob. On further looking I noticed the box in the engine bay was switched off. As such I had no fob and do not know if the alarm was armed or disarmed.

I have since bought a second hand fob and would like to programme it in. One thing I hve noticed whilst removing the alam box was that it had been removed before (screw heads were marked etc by screw driver)

I have tried your steps but don't know why it doesn't work, don't know what step to start from. Is there a base line I can start from so that i will know whether the syetm is armed or not? Also you mention numbers on pins and top and bottom. depending which way round you hold the alarm box top and bottom change. Can you provide a refernce point here? i.e are the pins on the right hand side as you look at it, with the cut away of the control module in the bottom right corner?

As I mentioned before, my led changes from solid light to flashing all the time and always has done, does this show whether the alam is armed or not?

zedebee
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Location: Broadstone

Switching off the beep and beep beep

Post by zedebee » Wed 25 Oct, 2006 10:02

I would like to swich off the beep and beep beep when arming and disarming the alarm. (Leaving the flashers to flash and flash flash!)
On my car they are very loud and simply draw uneccessary attention to the car.
Just wondered whether Komis or anyone else can help?

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komis
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  Z3 roadster 2.8

Post by komis » Wed 25 Oct, 2006 10:43

zedebee - I think that for some models (post-99) you can have that function programmed on or off by the dealer or someone with the appropriate computer equipment. Not sure about older cars though.. I don't think it's a DIY job anyway!

SilverSpoon - The reference point is step 5 and on. If you can get your keyfobs programmed in without shorting the pins, your alarm is in the disarmed state.

If I can remember correctly I held the box with the pins on the right hand side, just as you describe it. But as I said, it doesn't really matter, I tried all possible pin combinations before getting to the ones I mention, so you can't really break anything if it's done the other way round.

The LED shows the state of the alarm (armed-blinks, disarmed-off) and also whether the alarm has gone off while you were away or if a sensor is on its way out. If I can remember correctly (and guys, please step in if I'm wrong), your LED basically says alarm is armed and ready. I guess that LED turns itself on when you lock the car with your master key?
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Silverspoon
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Post by Silverspoon » Wed 25 Oct, 2006 13:49

Ok went out of the office at lunch time today and drove into middle of knowhere so alarm wouldn't upset anyone.

Followed instructions again as follows:

1)opened bonnet and turned siren on
2)closed bonnet
3)removed control module from alarm box (car locked itself as I removed it and siren went off)
4) closed door
5) tried short circuiting and nothing happened.
6) noticed I had been deadlocked in the car!
7) placed key in ignition, turned one notch and doors unlocked
8) opened bonnet and tunred siren off with key

Should not that throughout this indicators did not flash, also in a test to see if key in engine bay ONLY silenced the siren I tried all of above again with siren key switched off. Note that nothing at all happened, i.e. no clicks from the alarm box as were heard before when the siren went off etc. Also note that led didn't do anything different throughout the complete lunchtime process. Just looked at me flashing all the time as it has always done!

Damn It!

Anymore ideas?

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///m murf
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key fob covers

Post by ///m murf » Wed 25 Oct, 2006 17:43

This may be helpful for people :idea:

I was in the dealers the other day and was ordering a key fob for a friend while picking up various bits and pieces for myself when the parts guy said is the fob broken or just the cover, it was just the cover, you can order these now separately for just over £4 this includes even a new screw and rubber covers for the buttons :o .
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Robin
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Post by Robin » Wed 25 Oct, 2006 17:49

Last time my remote went out of sync with the sensor in the car, a service advisor showed me what to do:
1) Turn the ignition on then off with the key.
2) Hold down the unlock button whilst pressing the lock button 3 times.
Worked a treat. Or was your problem more serious than that.
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komis
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  Z3 roadster 2.8

Post by komis » Wed 25 Oct, 2006 23:00

Well what can I say, I find it bizarre that the car would just go ahead and lock itself. It could well be the case that your control module has packed up and you need a replacement if the instructions I gave don't work.

Basically the theory behind shorting the pins is that it emulates a signal being sent from the receiver module to the contol unit that a recognised keyfob's buttons have been pressed. Could it be the case that your control unit is a different revision and thus uses different pins to communicate this signal? Also, just checking, but are you keeping the control module plugged into the car at all times?

I don't know what else to suggest, it's not like I'm an expert mechanic or anything :) I think if you need more help, just PM me from now on and once we've found an answer we can report back to the thread.

The process Robin described is used only for the keys with integrated remote control, not the ones with the seperate fob. The process is described in full detail in page 159 of the owner's handbook.
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Nick
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Post by Nick » Tue 28 Nov, 2006 15:34

Robin wrote:Last time my remote went out of sync with the sensor in the car, a service advisor showed me what to do:
1) Turn the ignition on then off with the key.
2) Hold down the unlock button whilst pressing the lock button 3 times.
Worked a treat. Or was your problem more serious than that.
Thanks Robin, my alarm got out of sync because I swapped the car battery. All working now :D

komis wrote:The process Robin described is used only for the keys with integrated remote control, not the ones with the seperate fob.
Mine has a separate fob and it worked!

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komis
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  Z3 roadster 2.8

Post by komis » Wed 29 Nov, 2006 17:55

Nick, that's fantastic! The user manual on my old 1.9 certainly didn't describe this process but if it works, hey!
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triumphted
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  Z3 roadster 2.8
Location: Essex

Reprogramming 3G EWS alarm fobs

Post by triumphted » Tue 10 Mar, 2009 19:06

Hi all

In support of the many posts that suggest searching the site etc, I did so and found this thread.

It is worth it making an appearance on the board again as it works so well and saves you real money!!

My 98 Z3 has the EWS system fitted and when bought only came with one key and alarm fob. Fearing I would lose my fob or it would just die one day I bought a second hand fob on Fleabay for £10 and decided to tackle the reprogramming myself. I am of moderate ability and at times too much confidence!!

The post above details the steps needed, I started at 5. However I did not disconnect the receiver, I disconnected nothing. After a few attempts, the first ones knocked off the original fob and replaced with new, then the reverse, I worked out that I was trying to do it with the door open.

So I closed the door, flicked across the switch, followed the instructions and the car learnt both key fobs immediately - I locked with one and then unlocked with the other, then flicked the swich back.

All absolutely fine. The job took me 1 hour with a break for a natter to the neighbour. The hardest part was releasing the control box from the cradle, I found that it is easiest to remove the lower plastic cradle first housing other modules, then the control box metal one. You can then takes advantage of the excess loom available and get out of the contortionist position you will find yourself in.

I was hesitant in identifying the control box, as I found a number of module type boxes in there. A quick look at real oem helped here and I identified it by the part number, this is another story see my next post! The rubber blob mentioned is obvious although you cannot see the switch inside, but rest assured if you put a cocktail stick in it, you will feel the switch move.

I have attached a picture of the control box for anyone else that may try this and be uncertain as to what box is what.

Once again thanks to zroadster.net and all who have contributed to this thread! :D :D Image

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Regards


John
Last edited by triumphted on Thu 19 Mar, 2009 23:13, edited 1 time in total.

TIMMZEY
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Post by TIMMZEY » Wed 11 Mar, 2009 21:04

...
Last edited by TIMMZEY on Mon 09 Dec, 2013 11:47, edited 1 time in total.

xavier999
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  Z3 roadster 2.8

Post by xavier999 » Tue 17 Mar, 2009 15:43

Hi – if the red alarm light on the dashboard is not flashing, does this mean that I have a different problem that just getting the keyfob to ‘learn’ the correct code? Looking to try the above process, but want to make sure I am tackling the right problem. just bought the car recently and have a working keyfob (light comes on when you press the button) but nothing happens with the car at all.

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komis
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  Z3 roadster 2.8

Post by komis » Tue 17 Mar, 2009 21:00

If the alarm LED isn't flashing then either it's shot (I mean the LED itself), or your alarm system isn't working at all...

Maybe a loose wire or connection somewhere? Or shot control module?

I can't recommend anything other than taking the whole thing apart and giving it a once-over.
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Michael McGovern
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Location: East Sussex

Post by Michael McGovern » Mon 10 Aug, 2009 13:24

hi guys, i am trying to reprograme my fob which decided not to work on my car last night, iv replaced the battery in it but seems like i have to reprogramme it. iv followed your instruction but it wont disarm.... i get it to stop the siren but the doors do not lock unlock. when i try to short all of the pins the alarm starts up again????

also can i do this with the siren off iv been trying for hours people are not happy.

Michael McGovern
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Post by Michael McGovern » Mon 10 Aug, 2009 14:46

iv sorted it now, you can do it with the siren turned off, and id advise this especially if you have trouble following simple instructions like me.

i got it to disarm in the end by using two strips of wire instead of one and randomly covering various pins, im not 1 percent what ones i covered but almost certain i had them all covered except 7 so 1-6 with one wire then 8 on its own. not saying it wasnt actually covering them all but its what i gathered in the moment of madness.

cheers for the excellent guide.

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CMullins
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Post by CMullins » Tue 01 Sep, 2009 20:55

Sorry for arriving at this topic a bit late, but I have recently had my Z3 stolen but recovered after 5 days. The keys and fob were not covered which gives the thief, if he still has the keys (and I have to assume he does), the chance to take the car again.

I only had one fob which he took. The alarm is active (alarm goes off when I open doors).

I have bought a new fob.... now if I use the techniques as above I presume my new fob will work the alarm and lock/unlock the doors. However, I presume this means that the fob that the thief has will still deactivate the alarm and open ther doors.

Is there anything I can do to ensure the stolen fob will not work ?

TIMMZEY
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  Z3 roadster 2.8
Location: newcastle-under-lyme

Post by TIMMZEY » Wed 18 Nov, 2009 16:09

Just to reply. THANKS!!!!


Easy to understand, didn't take long to sort out. I never had a Fob when I brought my car, but a dead battery kicked it in. The alarm is now disabled and my car is back to normal (Dead on the drive for another few months -aargh!) - Will be putting a GSM alarm in soon enough... Thanks again

NinaBS
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  Z3 roadster 1.9

BMW 3G EWS alarm-coding keyfobs-SOLVED

Post by NinaBS » Mon 29 Mar, 2010 09:53

Just wanted to say a big THANKYOU for all the info that has been posted . I bought a Z3 in Feb that had no key fob & no working alarm . I managed to buy a key fob on Ebay & thanks to your instructions my husband got the alarm working in no time at all !

Thank you sooo much :lol:

El Reacho
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  Z3 roadster 1.9

Post by El Reacho » Thu 06 May, 2010 13:19

Robin wrote:Last time my remote went out of sync with the sensor in the car, a service advisor showed me what to do:
1) Turn the ignition on then off with the key.
2) Hold down the unlock button whilst pressing the lock button 3 times.
Worked a treat. Or was your problem more serious than that.
Just wondering if I bought a fob on ebay will this work to program it to my car? I only got one when I bought the car and an independent guy I take the car to said I would have to speak to a dealer if I wanted a second.

I'll be honest I'd be a bit out of my depth using the steps in the opening post.

NinaBS
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  Z3 roadster 1.9

Post by NinaBS » Fri 07 May, 2010 08:05

I didnt have any fobs at all when I got my car. I did get one off ebay that has worked fine as my local dealer told me they didnt sell them any more!

leg748s
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  Z3 roadster 2.8

with thanks

Post by leg748s » Sun 08 Aug, 2010 14:14

just a newb with a big thanks to komis for the alarm programing, just saved me a LOT of money. just to let you know though mine wouldn't work without refitting the module, without its casing then following all the steps as posted. CHEERS. :D

ROBBELL
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Post by ROBBELL » Sun 08 Aug, 2010 15:07

just to hijack this thread where is the switch under the bonnet that turns the alarm on and off mine is a 2000 2ltr and the sounder has stopped working

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Robert T
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  Z3 roadster 1.9
Location: Cheshire

Post by Robert T » Sun 08 Aug, 2010 18:29

ROBBELL wrote:just to hijack this thread where is the switch under the bonnet that turns the alarm on and off mine is a 2000 2ltr and the sounder has stopped working
There is no switch on a 2000 car - that only applies to the early cars with the separate alarm fob. Your sounder must have given up the ghost, or at least the wiring to it.

Cheers R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
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mev
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  Z3 roadster 2.8

Post by mev » Mon 25 Apr, 2011 11:25

Thanks to Komis for an informative and well written post.

My 1997 Z3 2.8 has the same problem, caused by a flat battery after not being used for 8 months.

My problem is that I can't disarm the alarm in order to reprogram the module to recognise the key fobs.

I've tried removing the receiver part of the module and shorting out the pins, but it hasn't worked - the alarm is still activated. I still have the little round key for the siren so Ive turned it off while working on it, but I think that the reprograming procedure should still work with the siren switched off. Is that correct?

Does anybody have any more suggestions about how to disarm the alarm so that I can reprogram the remotes? How do the dealers do it? I've read that they replace the complete module with a working one and use that that disarm the system, then replace it with the original one and continue the procedure. That sounds like a good idea but I don't have a spare module!

Any ideas? Or does anybody know of a good alarm specialist in the West Midlands or Warwickshire?

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Robert T
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  Z3 roadster 1.9
Location: Cheshire

Post by Robert T » Mon 25 Apr, 2011 12:12

The disarming procedure involves a piece of paper in a sealed envelope with a code on it. If this came with your car, the instructions should be on it. There is a good thread on here describing it with some pics of the envelope...

http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=233694

http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=235057

Cheers R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
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mev
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  Z3 roadster 2.8

Post by mev » Mon 25 Apr, 2011 14:13

Hi Robert T

Thanks for your reply. I've had the car from new but can't remember whether or not I was given the sealed envelope. I do have the original operating instructions for the 3G alarm system, and there is a BMW Certificate of Conformity for my car which has a hand written 5 digit "Transmitter Code". This does sound like it is the same code you are referring to, and I've tried following the instructions (ie. turning the ignition on and off while counting the LED flashes etc), but it doesn't work. The alarm just continues to go off.

Incidentally we seem to have similar taste in cars - I have a couple of Frogeyes as well as the Z3 and a few more.

mev
Joined: Fri 22 Apr, 2011 23:14
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  Z3 roadster 2.8

Post by mev » Mon 25 Apr, 2011 15:19

Problem solved!!!! YIPPEEEEEE !!!!

I've finally done it. I tried again shorting out the 8 pins joining the receiver part of the module to the main body of the module, and this time it worked - it disarmed the alarm. Having done that I flicked the switch in the receiver, replaced it on the module, pressed the red buttons on both remotes, then flicked the switch back again. I now have two fully working remotes!

I don't know which pins I shorted out because I tried every possible combination including joining them all together, but I can confirm that it didn't do any damage. I can also confirm the following:-

(1) The alarm system definitely needs to be disarmed before the remotes can be reprogrammed. If the problem was caused by the car battery going flat through storage, as in my case, then it is very likely that the system has armed itself in the same way as it does if the battery is disconnected or the wires are cut.

(2) The siren can be switched off under the bonnet if you have the correct key. This does NOT affect the reprogramming procedure.

(3) It is not necessary to disconnect the whole alarm module. In order to disarm the system you only need to prise off the receiver part. This also makes it easier to see the little programming switch underneath the rubber blanking plug. You need to replace the receiver part before pressing the red buttons on the remotes, of course.

(4) The doors, bonnet and boot need to be closed during the disarming and reprogramming. If the vehicle is a Z3, it helps to be contortionist.

Thanks again to the original posters of the procedure. I suspect that this is a very common problem.

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komis
Joined: Wed 01 Dec, 2004 11:18
Posts: 475

  Z3 roadster 2.8

Post by komis » Tue 26 Apr, 2011 20:42

mev wrote:Problem solved!!!! YIPPEEEEEE !!!!

I've finally done it. I tried again shorting out the 8 pins joining the receiver part of the module to the main body of the module, and this time it worked - it disarmed the alarm. Having done that I flicked the switch in the receiver, replaced it on the module, pressed the red buttons on both remotes, then flicked the switch back again. I now have two fully working remotes!

I don't know which pins I shorted out because I tried every possible combination including joining them all together, but I can confirm that it didn't do any damage. I can also confirm the following:-

(1) The alarm system definitely needs to be disarmed before the remotes can be reprogrammed. If the problem was caused by the car battery going flat through storage, as in my case, then it is very likely that the system has armed itself in the same way as it does if the battery is disconnected or the wires are cut.

(2) The siren can be switched off under the bonnet if you have the correct key. This does NOT affect the reprogramming procedure.

(3) It is not necessary to disconnect the whole alarm module. In order to disarm the system you only need to prise off the receiver part. This also makes it easier to see the little programming switch underneath the rubber blanking plug. You need to replace the receiver part before pressing the red buttons on the remotes, of course.

(4) The doors, bonnet and boot need to be closed during the disarming and reprogramming. If the vehicle is a Z3, it helps to be contortionist.

Thanks again to the original posters of the procedure. I suspect that this is a very common problem.
Glad to know it worked for you too :) Your observations are all stated in my original post, but I would go as far as to say that it is IMPERATIVE that the control module remains connected to the car (only the receiver needs removed), otherwise the whole lock-unlock procedure with the pin-shorting won't work!
wwwwOOOff!!!
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seasurfer
Joined: Sat 22 Aug, 2009 14:02
Posts: 1724

  Z3 roadster 2.2i
Location: South Lakes, Cumbria

Post by seasurfer » Tue 03 May, 2011 22:06

Soi
[/url]
ImageImageImage

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Titan
Joined: Fri 01 Apr, 2005 21:20
Posts: 4002

  Z3 roadster 2.2i
Location: North Yorkshire

Post by Titan » Tue 03 May, 2011 22:13

seasurfer wrote:Soi
So I what :puzzle: :puzzle:
Image :devil:

seasurfer
Joined: Sat 22 Aug, 2009 14:02
Posts: 1724

  Z3 roadster 2.2i
Location: South Lakes, Cumbria

Post by seasurfer » Tue 03 May, 2011 22:42

Oooops, cant blame that on the drink, im t toal, dont know what i did there :oops:
[/url]
ImageImageImage

vjles
Joined: Sat 06 Aug, 2011 20:06
Posts: 28

  Z3 roadster 2.2i
Location: Consett
Contact:

Post by vjles » Mon 08 Aug, 2011 11:16

Newbie here, just bought my Z3 last week.

My remote keys have lost contact with the receiver module.
When I bought the car from a dealer the battery was flat and he fitted a new battery. The remotes were working fine last weekend (bought the car and battery changed on Friday). On Monday the remote would not lock the car but would open it at first, then, eventually both remote keys would do nothing.

The car is booked in to my local BMW dealership for Thursday. Quoted £75 to look at it + £15 insurance for a curtesy car, they said it was not an uncommon fault.

My remotes do not have a red button as mentioned.

Would the above procedure work on my car?

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Jonttt
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  M roadster S54
Location: Liverpool

Post by Jonttt » Mon 08 Aug, 2011 21:34

Your car is a late 2002 and so has the integrated alarm/immobilsor.

Be careful with BMW's investigation "rates". You would be better taking to an indy who will charge much less / examine for free while you wait.

It could be aas simple as the dealer fitted an old battery from another fob and so that battery has also gone dead.

Its easy to remove the battery yourself and for a few pounds try a new one first :wink:
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LookinFoolish
Joined: Sun 31 Jul, 2011 19:36
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  Z3 roadster 1.9
Contact:

Re: BMW 3G EWS alarm-coding keyfobs-SOLVED!!

Post by LookinFoolish » Wed 04 Apr, 2012 10:57

Apologies for bringing up an old thread, will this work with the following keyfob??

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1997 BMW Z3 1.9l

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aceman
Joined: Sun 01 Jun, 2008 12:16
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  M roadster S50
Location: Wakefield

Re: BMW 3G EWS alarm-coding keyfobs-SOLVED!!

Post by aceman » Wed 04 Apr, 2012 12:53

Yep that is the keyfob for the 3G EWS alarm system so the above procedure should work.
Aceman

Arctic Silver '98 Z3M

Previously;
Bright RED '99 Z3 2.8

Rocking seats ? You need seat bushes click HERE

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LookinFoolish
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  Z3 roadster 1.9
Contact:

Re: BMW 3G EWS alarm-coding keyfobs-SOLVED!!

Post by LookinFoolish » Wed 04 Apr, 2012 13:19

great stuff, thanks.

When it says; short the cables.. how is this done? And does anyone have any pics of the proceedure as it would be useful because i'm not the best when it comes to getting dirty with cars!
1997 BMW Z3 1.9l

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aceman
Joined: Sun 01 Jun, 2008 12:16
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Location: Wakefield

Re: BMW 3G EWS alarm-coding keyfobs-SOLVED!!

Post by aceman » Wed 04 Apr, 2012 18:57

You only need to short pins on the alarm module if you alarm system is stuck in the armed mode ie. keeps going off when you open the doors etc. as the alarm module needs to be in disarmed mode to be able to learn new remotes.

When it says short pins together it means connecting a piece of wire between the pins on the alarm module hence creating a circuit between the two pins. If this is still alien to you I suggest you let someone else perform this procedure for you as it is clearly beyond your abilities (no offence intended).
Aceman

Arctic Silver '98 Z3M

Previously;
Bright RED '99 Z3 2.8

Rocking seats ? You need seat bushes click HERE

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LookinFoolish
Joined: Sun 31 Jul, 2011 19:36
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Re: BMW 3G EWS alarm-coding keyfobs-SOLVED!!

Post by LookinFoolish » Wed 04 Apr, 2012 19:10

no offence taken. I wont need to short the pins because my alarm isn't armed. I'll give it a go and if i fail i'll get someone to take a look. Cheers Aceman
1997 BMW Z3 1.9l

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abujudah
Joined: Sat 01 Sep, 2012 01:01
Posts: 1

  Z3 roadster 2.8

Re: Success

Post by abujudah » Sat 01 Sep, 2012 15:00

My key fob was scrambled by and electric extension lead. I left my keys on it and I guess a low frequency wiped the code. On returning to my car it wouldn't open with the key fob. I used the key and the alarm sounded. BMWs dealership quoted upwards of £500 to repair it so I decided to find the answer myself.

I just wanted to record my success on this forum after finding the thread. It flt like some weird spell or incantation as i was dabbing these eight pins but it worked. I was so relieved.

My car is a 1999 2.8 with the separate key fob and key (which now both work perfectly)
komis wrote:
mev wrote:Problem solved!!!! YIPPEEEEEE !!!!

I've finally done it. I tried again shorting out the 8 pins joining the receiver part of the module to the main body of the module, and this time it worked - it disarmed the alarm. Having done that I flicked the switch in the receiver, replaced it on the module, pressed the red buttons on both remotes, then flicked the switch back again. I now have two fully working remotes!

I don't know which pins I shorted out because I tried every possible combination including joining them all together, but I can confirm that it didn't do any damage. I can also confirm the following:-

(1) The alarm system definitely needs to be disarmed before the remotes can be reprogrammed. If the problem was caused by the car battery going flat through storage, as in my case, then it is very likely that the system has armed itself in the same way as it does if the battery is disconnected or the wires are cut.

(2) The siren can be switched off under the bonnet if you have the correct key. This does NOT affect the reprogramming procedure.

(3) It is not necessary to disconnect the whole alarm module. In order to disarm the system you only need to prise off the receiver part. This also makes it easier to see the little programming switch underneath the rubber blanking plug. You need to replace the receiver part before pressing the red buttons on the remotes, of course.

(4) The doors, bonnet and boot need to be closed during the disarming and reprogramming. If the vehicle is a Z3, it helps to be contortionist.

Thanks again to the original posters of the procedure. I suspect that this is a very common problem.
Glad to know it worked for you too :) Your observations are all stated in my original post, but I would go as far as to say that it is IMPERATIVE that the control module remains connected to the car (only the receiver needs removed), otherwise the whole lock-unlock procedure with the pin-shorting won't work!

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