Stored cars over winter (how many start to warm up)
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hornel Z3M
- Joined: Sun 16 May, 2004 20:33
- Posts: 1120
- Location: RAGLAN
Stored cars over winter (how many start to warm up)
Just learned a very important lesson about starting the car over the winter period and warming it up. On bringing the car out of winter storage i noticed a large amount of water shooting from the exhausts and a white sludgy appearance on the oil cap. I have from good authority (mike fishwick) that it is causing very harmful condensation and as the oil was changed prior to putting away it is quite obvious. so he instructed me next year to have an oil change, give it a run and dont start it over winter and leave it on trickle charge. Thought you Zedders who store the car would be interested, thats if you didnt already know.
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hornel Z3M
- Joined: Sun 16 May, 2004 20:33
- Posts: 1120
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- Location: RAGLAN
m
Thanks Tim. ready to go , tax, insured, mot. going out sunday 
You could always remove the battery, Oldschool tip 
Gazza
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you"
Z3 S54 M roadster
, BMW Z1, BMW M3 CSL, Z4M Coupe
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you"
Z3 S54 M roadster
, BMW Z1, BMW M3 CSL, Z4M CoupeRe: m
Coolhornel Z3M wrote:Thanks Tim. ready to go , tax, insured, mot. going out sunday
Mine went in the garage last Sept, it came out once over Christmas and I ran the engine and put the heater on full for half an hour, next time it came out was three weeks ago. No probs at all and is running great
Tim.
2001 Z3 1.9 Roadster Sport - 2012 Z4 sDrive 2.0 M Sport
This can cause problems with the service indicator as the batteries in it discharge and don't like being recharged from a flat state.garythefish wrote:You could always remove the battery, Oldschool tip
I can't reset my service indicator and I suspect it is because the main battery was disconnected for about six months.
Leaving the car connected to a trickle charger is the best option.
Pingu
I fill the petrol tank, take for agood run, take out battery, over inflate tyres a little and left to stand for 7 months, started first click and ran like a dream first run.
Never run a stored car engine and leave it standing
I've posted this before but here you go again....
I came across this guide
Original link (I have un-americanised it
http://www.mcoupebuyersguide.com/
Here are some of the winter storage tips I’ve come across. Some are probably more extreme than I’m going to attempt but worth mentioning anyway:
For Your Engine
NEVER start your coupe unless you plan on driving it for at least a half hour to get it to full operating temperature. It is far better to let it sit for 4-5 months than to idle the engine from time to time to “get the fluids running”. Doing so will just load the engine and exhaust with moisture and open the potential for rust.
Change the oil and filter – Oil gets contaminated during use and those contaminants can cause mild corrosion if left to sit for long periods of time
Top off the petrol from a quality station and avoid Ethanol if possible. Having the fuel topped off prevents condensation from forming in the tank and rusting it from the inside out. Don’t fill it to the top of the neck to leave a little room for expansion and contraction with varying temperatures.
Use a petrol preservative like Stabil to prevent the petrol from breaking down as well as preventing oxidation and rust formation. After adding it, run the engine for at least 10 minutes to allow the mixture to get through the entire system.
Before parking it for storage, take it for an extended drive to get all the fluids up to operating temperature in order to burn off contaminants in the oil and get rid of moisture in the crankcase and exhaust system.
If you live somewhere that rodents could be a concern, place steel wool or a rolled up scotch-brite pad in the tailpipes.
For Your Transmission
Leave your car in gear. Use wheel blocks to prevent it from rolling
For Your Brakes
Never set the parking brake. The brake pads could stick to the rotors or the cables could freeze or rust during storage. Use wheel blocks.
After the final wash, drive it around for a little bit frequently applying the brakes to dry them off well.
For Your Battery
Many people take their batteries out for storage as cool temperatures can reduce the life of the battery. Sitting for an extended period of time without recharging can also significantly reduce the life of a battery. For the Z3, I think it is ideal to purchase a float charger/battery tender to maintain the battery’s charge while it is parked. I’d recommend hooking it up to the leads in the engine bay rather than connecting directly to the battery in the boot. Classic trickle chargers if left un-monitored can overcharge the battery and also reduce it’s life. Float chargers, on the other hand, are designed to charge the battery to an optimal level then maintain that level without overcharging. In my research, I read good things about the following chargers:
BMW Advanced Battery Charger
CTEK 3300
Deltran Battery Tender Plus
For Your Tires
Slightly over inflate the tires by 5-10 psi to help avoid flat spotting from sitting in one place for a long time. This will also help compensate for the cooler temperatures.
Roll the car a few inches forward and back from time to time (without starting the engine of course).
Place cardboard or old carpet squares under the tires to separate them from the cold/hard concrete.
Some people choose to store their car on jack stands to take pressure off the tires completely, but this must be done right or it could cause more harm than good. Place the jackstands under the suspension so that all the bushings and springs sit as they do normally. Letting the wheels droop is hard on the suspension and exposes parts to rust that are normally protected.
For Your Exterior
Purchase a quality car cover for your Z3 to protect it from dust, moisture and dings while stored.
Thoroughly wash (including the undercarriage) and wax your Z3 right before storing it.
Be sure it is completely dry before covering it as moisture is your worst enemy.
To stop moisture from getting under the car, put a couple layers of plastic sheeting under the entire car and several feet to either side. It’s cheap and a good vapor barrier.
For Your Interior
Close all the windows and put the system on max a/c to close the outside vent. If the garage is heated, the window can be left open a small crack to allow air circulation.
Put a large bag of desiccant gel or an open box of baking soda inside the car. These will absorb excess moisture from the air.
Clean and vacuum the interior. Use leather cleaner/conditioner and vinyl cleaner/conditioner as required.
Do NOT use water on the carpets or seats right before storage or you risk mold and mildew.
Do NOT treat inside surfaces with Armor-All (or similar products). They contain a lot of water and chemicals that can encourage mildew and mold.
So there you go. It’s a little overwhelming at first, but really not too bad all in all. I’m new at this so feel free to chime in with comments and corrections.
Never run a stored car engine and leave it standing
I've posted this before but here you go again....
I came across this guide
Original link (I have un-americanised it
http://www.mcoupebuyersguide.com/
Here are some of the winter storage tips I’ve come across. Some are probably more extreme than I’m going to attempt but worth mentioning anyway:
For Your Engine
NEVER start your coupe unless you plan on driving it for at least a half hour to get it to full operating temperature. It is far better to let it sit for 4-5 months than to idle the engine from time to time to “get the fluids running”. Doing so will just load the engine and exhaust with moisture and open the potential for rust.
Change the oil and filter – Oil gets contaminated during use and those contaminants can cause mild corrosion if left to sit for long periods of time
Top off the petrol from a quality station and avoid Ethanol if possible. Having the fuel topped off prevents condensation from forming in the tank and rusting it from the inside out. Don’t fill it to the top of the neck to leave a little room for expansion and contraction with varying temperatures.
Use a petrol preservative like Stabil to prevent the petrol from breaking down as well as preventing oxidation and rust formation. After adding it, run the engine for at least 10 minutes to allow the mixture to get through the entire system.
Before parking it for storage, take it for an extended drive to get all the fluids up to operating temperature in order to burn off contaminants in the oil and get rid of moisture in the crankcase and exhaust system.
If you live somewhere that rodents could be a concern, place steel wool or a rolled up scotch-brite pad in the tailpipes.
For Your Transmission
Leave your car in gear. Use wheel blocks to prevent it from rolling
For Your Brakes
Never set the parking brake. The brake pads could stick to the rotors or the cables could freeze or rust during storage. Use wheel blocks.
After the final wash, drive it around for a little bit frequently applying the brakes to dry them off well.
For Your Battery
Many people take their batteries out for storage as cool temperatures can reduce the life of the battery. Sitting for an extended period of time without recharging can also significantly reduce the life of a battery. For the Z3, I think it is ideal to purchase a float charger/battery tender to maintain the battery’s charge while it is parked. I’d recommend hooking it up to the leads in the engine bay rather than connecting directly to the battery in the boot. Classic trickle chargers if left un-monitored can overcharge the battery and also reduce it’s life. Float chargers, on the other hand, are designed to charge the battery to an optimal level then maintain that level without overcharging. In my research, I read good things about the following chargers:
BMW Advanced Battery Charger
CTEK 3300
Deltran Battery Tender Plus
For Your Tires
Slightly over inflate the tires by 5-10 psi to help avoid flat spotting from sitting in one place for a long time. This will also help compensate for the cooler temperatures.
Roll the car a few inches forward and back from time to time (without starting the engine of course).
Place cardboard or old carpet squares under the tires to separate them from the cold/hard concrete.
Some people choose to store their car on jack stands to take pressure off the tires completely, but this must be done right or it could cause more harm than good. Place the jackstands under the suspension so that all the bushings and springs sit as they do normally. Letting the wheels droop is hard on the suspension and exposes parts to rust that are normally protected.
For Your Exterior
Purchase a quality car cover for your Z3 to protect it from dust, moisture and dings while stored.
Thoroughly wash (including the undercarriage) and wax your Z3 right before storing it.
Be sure it is completely dry before covering it as moisture is your worst enemy.
To stop moisture from getting under the car, put a couple layers of plastic sheeting under the entire car and several feet to either side. It’s cheap and a good vapor barrier.
For Your Interior
Close all the windows and put the system on max a/c to close the outside vent. If the garage is heated, the window can be left open a small crack to allow air circulation.
Put a large bag of desiccant gel or an open box of baking soda inside the car. These will absorb excess moisture from the air.
Clean and vacuum the interior. Use leather cleaner/conditioner and vinyl cleaner/conditioner as required.
Do NOT use water on the carpets or seats right before storage or you risk mold and mildew.
Do NOT treat inside surfaces with Armor-All (or similar products). They contain a lot of water and chemicals that can encourage mildew and mold.
So there you go. It’s a little overwhelming at first, but really not too bad all in all. I’m new at this so feel free to chime in with comments and corrections.
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Badman gee
- Joined: Sun 14 Nov, 2010 10:45
- Posts: 2299
been out for 2 weeks now! loving it -
hornel Z3M
- Joined: Sun 16 May, 2004 20:33
- Posts: 1120
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- Location: RAGLAN
m
Thanks Tim and jonttt for the expert advice. People said its in the forum about the effects of starting a car in winter but as i only came across the problem last week then its obvious if i knew about it i wouldnt have done it. Next winter is a new winter and the advice i have received will be carried out. thanks for all the good advice.
Thanks for your top tips Jonttt and co.
I'm having to leave my ///M behind while I live abroad for a year... I can't bear to get rid of her and although I have the option of my Dad driving her I wouldn't want him to be landed with any bills while I'm away.
She'll be stored for over a year in a barn (with power).
I'll be using the tips mentioned above and I'll probably leave her on axle stands to prevent flat spots - with the stands under the wishbones.
Does anyone have anything further to add for this extended period of storage?
I'll probably setup a webcam so I can peek in on her from time to time (is that taking it too far?).
I'll be investing in a float charger and cover (anything else people recommend?).
I'm having to leave my ///M behind while I live abroad for a year... I can't bear to get rid of her and although I have the option of my Dad driving her I wouldn't want him to be landed with any bills while I'm away.
She'll be stored for over a year in a barn (with power).
I'll be using the tips mentioned above and I'll probably leave her on axle stands to prevent flat spots - with the stands under the wishbones.
Does anyone have anything further to add for this extended period of storage?
I'll probably setup a webcam so I can peek in on her from time to time (is that taking it too far?).
I'll be investing in a float charger and cover (anything else people recommend?).
I use a decent indoor car cover, preferably one that reaches the ground all round. Don't forget a blanket over the hood first to prevent shiny patches. I also wedge a wide buffer made from poly packing material under the rear to reduce the chance of cold air going under the car. Cover the open exhaust with a pair of old socks (yes, you can use new ones if it makes you feel better). You don't want to make the exhaust airtight but you don't want beasties to get inside.
Oh yes, you could get Pop to take pics and send them to you...
Regards
Oh yes, you could get Pop to take pics and send them to you...
Regards
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shantybeater
- Joined: Wed 12 Mar, 2008 14:33
- Posts: 1967
- Location: UK
I was about to post this to you Tris then saw your reply.
With regards to oil, it says above do a change before storage, should you do one immediately after as well? I read somewhere if you leave oil to sit for extended periods it can loose certain properties which help lubrication?
With regards to oil, it says above do a change before storage, should you do one immediately after as well? I read somewhere if you leave oil to sit for extended periods it can loose certain properties which help lubrication?
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