Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
Hi everyone
thanks for taking the time to read my wanted add. This is my first post and I thought this would be a good place to continue my search for a facelift 2.8 or 3.0l car in good condition with "lowish" mileage. I have viewed a few from the usual sources but haven't located the "that's for me car yet". I would prefer a car in the northwest but I am prepared to travel for a genuine car in good condition.
anyone with a car they wish to sell and think fits the bill please drop me a pm.
thanks
Gaz
thanks for taking the time to read my wanted add. This is my first post and I thought this would be a good place to continue my search for a facelift 2.8 or 3.0l car in good condition with "lowish" mileage. I have viewed a few from the usual sources but haven't located the "that's for me car yet". I would prefer a car in the northwest but I am prepared to travel for a genuine car in good condition.
anyone with a car they wish to sell and think fits the bill please drop me a pm.
thanks
Gaz
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
Hi and welcome to the forum. Try giving as much detail as you can. I.E colour, preferred trim colour etc. Cars keep popping up so I'm sure there's a match just waiting for you. Good luck with your search.
Cheers
Dave
Cheers
Dave
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
hi both
thank you I have no strong preferences on colour, interior colour or options just that it must be in good condition with low miles and make me .
I have viewed that Z thank you, unfortunately she is not for me.
Gaz
thank you I have no strong preferences on colour, interior colour or options just that it must be in good condition with low miles and make me .
I have viewed that Z thank you, unfortunately she is not for me.
Gaz
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
welcome...
go for condition over mileage - mine is on c. 123k and is in very good condition - would much rather have that than 40k and poorer condition...
Alasdair
go for condition over mileage - mine is on c. 123k and is in very good condition - would much rather have that than 40k and poorer condition...
Alasdair
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
come on Guys and Girls some one must know of a "good one" up for sale, I have viewed a number of likely candidates being sold on various sites but no closer to buying one.
Am I barking up the wrong tree and won't find a rust free example, that is dry and doesn't knock when changing gear!
G
Am I barking up the wrong tree and won't find a rust free example, that is dry and doesn't knock when changing gear!
G
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
Not many 3.0 about at the minute. Where is the rust you find? There is usually some surface rust just behind the front wheels on the sill which can be treated but mainly they are rust free and are galvanised.
Gear change could be the delay valve in the slave cylinder so the clutch doesn't engage with a bag but this can also be removed. The later auto box is also very good 'steptronic'
Keep hunting one will turn up.
Gear change could be the delay valve in the slave cylinder so the clutch doesn't engage with a bag but this can also be removed. The later auto box is also very good 'steptronic'
Keep hunting one will turn up.
Brian
3.0I Topaz Blue
2000 E36/7 Z3 3.0i
2016 F31 335d
2015 F21 118i
3.0I Topaz Blue
2000 E36/7 Z3 3.0i
2016 F31 335d
2015 F21 118i
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
I have seen rust in different places on different vehicles but haven't seen one which hasn't started to go on the arches. Are all Z3's galvanised or just certain models/panels.
the gearbox issue's I have come across several times involve selection of first being difficult when at running temperature and moving up from second to third there is a knock from the rear of the gearbox on some it is faint others alarmingly loud. Is a bush or mount prone to failure?
the gearbox issue's I have come across several times involve selection of first being difficult when at running temperature and moving up from second to third there is a knock from the rear of the gearbox on some it is faint others alarmingly loud. Is a bush or mount prone to failure?
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
Brian is right about the rust. Only the front of the sills tend to get problems from rubble rash albeit these cars are getting on. I had mine fully stripped and re-sprayed and the body shop did say how solid it was. Other than some deep stone chip damage to the bonnet and the sill edges all was good. He did say that the only reason you'd get rusting arches etc on these cars would be due to bad repairs or stone chipping that's not been dealt with early enough. I think your going to struggle to find a car at 15+ years that's not had something done unless your prepared to pay someone ridiculous money for a car done very few miles. There seem be be one or two such cars on autotrader most of the time but premiums are high. Good luck.
Cheers
Dave
Cheers
Dave
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
I do expect some issues with cars that are now around 15 years old, rust for example isn't an issue if treated properly as it sounds your car has been treated Dave.
I have been viewing vehicles at the top end (and over) current market valuations and come across issues/bodges that I would not expect.
I tend to keep my cars for many years so take my time selecting the right one for me, there is a genuine, loved, enthusiast owned car out there with my name on it, I just have to find it.... ...... any help and advice to help me achieve my goal would be appreciated.
I have been viewing vehicles at the top end (and over) current market valuations and come across issues/bodges that I would not expect.
I tend to keep my cars for many years so take my time selecting the right one for me, there is a genuine, loved, enthusiast owned car out there with my name on it, I just have to find it.... ...... any help and advice to help me achieve my goal would be appreciated.
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
hopefully this won't confuse you even more and is meant as thought provoking only.
Why a 2.8 or 3.0?
I ask as most 2.8 are the prefacelift body shape and the 3.0 is the facelift from 2000 onwards.
There are two 2.8 engines the original M52B28 was single vanos unit producing about 190 hp and the later M52TUB28 a double vanos unit again about 190 hp.
The 3.0 was the M54 double vanos unit about 228 hp.
There are more 2.8's around but mainly the prefacelift and a few late 1999 early 2000 facelift.
The other option is if you like the facelift body shape the 2.2 which is a 6 cylinder and about 170 hp and has quite good fuel consumption and good performance.
The stiff gearbox seems to be cured with an oil change for the manual gearbox and possibly/probably clutch fluid change.
If there is a clunk from the rear there is a bush from the diff to the body which is probably beyond sell by date as they are at least 13 years old now. The other point to check is the spot welds in the boot where the diff hander is welded in as these have been known to fracture but usually confined to the M cars. The other cause cold be worn rubber coupling from the gearbox to propshaft or the centre bearing none of which are too difficult to replace.
As the cars are up to 17 years old now to bring the ride back to original most of the bushes will have some wear in them so won't drive as new but nothing that can't be done at home if you are that way inclined and the cars are easy to work on and not overly complicated.
All Z3 were galvanised from new and do not seem to be prone to rust except for the part of the sill behind the front wheel which just needs treating. new sills can still be bought. All the body panel unbolt and are from the doors forward are the same for all cars, the prefacelift 2.8 is the widebody and the rear is different and the 2000 onward facelift cars all have the same rear end.
Any more help just ask.
Why a 2.8 or 3.0?
I ask as most 2.8 are the prefacelift body shape and the 3.0 is the facelift from 2000 onwards.
There are two 2.8 engines the original M52B28 was single vanos unit producing about 190 hp and the later M52TUB28 a double vanos unit again about 190 hp.
The 3.0 was the M54 double vanos unit about 228 hp.
There are more 2.8's around but mainly the prefacelift and a few late 1999 early 2000 facelift.
The other option is if you like the facelift body shape the 2.2 which is a 6 cylinder and about 170 hp and has quite good fuel consumption and good performance.
The stiff gearbox seems to be cured with an oil change for the manual gearbox and possibly/probably clutch fluid change.
If there is a clunk from the rear there is a bush from the diff to the body which is probably beyond sell by date as they are at least 13 years old now. The other point to check is the spot welds in the boot where the diff hander is welded in as these have been known to fracture but usually confined to the M cars. The other cause cold be worn rubber coupling from the gearbox to propshaft or the centre bearing none of which are too difficult to replace.
As the cars are up to 17 years old now to bring the ride back to original most of the bushes will have some wear in them so won't drive as new but nothing that can't be done at home if you are that way inclined and the cars are easy to work on and not overly complicated.
All Z3 were galvanised from new and do not seem to be prone to rust except for the part of the sill behind the front wheel which just needs treating. new sills can still be bought. All the body panel unbolt and are from the doors forward are the same for all cars, the prefacelift 2.8 is the widebody and the rear is different and the 2000 onward facelift cars all have the same rear end.
Any more help just ask.
Brian
3.0I Topaz Blue
2000 E36/7 Z3 3.0i
2016 F31 335d
2015 F21 118i
3.0I Topaz Blue
2000 E36/7 Z3 3.0i
2016 F31 335d
2015 F21 118i
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
Welcome Gaz,
The clonk you hear when changing gear is very common. I have restored 5 z3's this year which all had this problem. The cause seemed to vary from car to car. One being the Diff bushe another being the guibo bushe which joins the gearbox on my M it was the UJ itself. All these parts are inexpensive items and can be bought from most car part places. Stiff gear box when cold is normal too
Like everyone is saying they are aging now so most will have these problems, I assuming the owners think its termial.
Enjoy your search
Lee
The clonk you hear when changing gear is very common. I have restored 5 z3's this year which all had this problem. The cause seemed to vary from car to car. One being the Diff bushe another being the guibo bushe which joins the gearbox on my M it was the UJ itself. All these parts are inexpensive items and can be bought from most car part places. Stiff gear box when cold is normal too
Like everyone is saying they are aging now so most will have these problems, I assuming the owners think its termial.
Enjoy your search
Lee
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
thanks for you input Guys,
lee I am impressed you have restored 5 z3's in one year puts me and my current 2 year project (non BMW) to shame and I am still only half way through .
When I buy a z3 its stable mates will be up to 40 years old (and in far better condition than some of the z3's I have viewed to date)
Brian I have a number of v6 cars with 2.8 and 3.0l power units and I have used Bmw's at work for a number of years so would like a 2.8 or 3.0 litre st 6. Not overly concerned about fuel consumption or insurance/excise licence costs, more interested in a car that makes me smile when driving it these days....
Viewed another 2.8 a couple of days ago with an auto box, first auto Z3 I have tried out, nice car in good condition but I prefer a manual for the driving experience so narrows the search down a bit.
lee I am impressed you have restored 5 z3's in one year puts me and my current 2 year project (non BMW) to shame and I am still only half way through .
When I buy a z3 its stable mates will be up to 40 years old (and in far better condition than some of the z3's I have viewed to date)
Brian I have a number of v6 cars with 2.8 and 3.0l power units and I have used Bmw's at work for a number of years so would like a 2.8 or 3.0 litre st 6. Not overly concerned about fuel consumption or insurance/excise licence costs, more interested in a car that makes me smile when driving it these days....
Viewed another 2.8 a couple of days ago with an auto box, first auto Z3 I have tried out, nice car in good condition but I prefer a manual for the driving experience so narrows the search down a bit.
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
Stiff gearchange is more often than not easily sorted by a fluid change.
Gazza
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you"
Z3 S54 M roadster , BMW Z1, BMW M3 CSL, Z4M Coupe
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you"
Z3 S54 M roadster , BMW Z1, BMW M3 CSL, Z4M Coupe
- Southernboy
- Joined: Thu 07 Oct, 2010 12:39
- Posts: 6437
- Location: Johannesburg
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
A lot of the "fun" in owning a Z3 is in discovering the car itself vs driving experience. The driving experience will be there irrespective of the condition being 80% or 99%. Discovering the Z3 comes from restoring those small 15 year old deteriorations and in the process finding a few more which haven't become obvious by their advanced state. The Z3 body can mostly be removed with a screwdriver, and 2 or 3 small sockets (6/8/10). A good deal of it's interior only requires a phillips screwdriver.
If you're looking for an example which has been and is to be maintained in 100% OEM configuration with the long term value in mind or just a solid good condition car with few "modifications" should be specified in your requirements. I sold a 2.8 1997 with 230,000kms+ on the clock which had several modifications to the original spec. It was undoubtedly in mint condition with not even a hint of a paint chip. The interior had been redone with new leather (not OEM colours) etc etc.. I sold it for more than most Z3 M's fetch in the UK in good condition.
The first pic below is of that 2.8 many years ago when I first bought it.
The pics below is what it ended up looking like by the time I sold it.
M version door mirrors, rearview mirror and side vents. Projector headlights, clear light covers on side and bumper.
Z4 steering wheel, white cluster dials facia, red/black leather interior, leather upholstered OEM roll hoops. Z3 M version center console with OEM clocks
M50 intake manifold upgrade, strutbar, Simota filter, billet aluminium oil filter cap with oil temp sensor delivering to the gauge on the dash / console, full M style quad / dual exhaust system and electronic chip yielding an extra 20hp.
Dual ear diff mounting. You can see the left / right exhausts which come from the headers at the front.
The question of 2.8 vs 3.0 is as described - a pre or post facelift body. From a motoring point of view, the 3.0 has loads more power added to greater economy by virtue of the double vs single vanos setup.
If you're looking for an example which has been and is to be maintained in 100% OEM configuration with the long term value in mind or just a solid good condition car with few "modifications" should be specified in your requirements. I sold a 2.8 1997 with 230,000kms+ on the clock which had several modifications to the original spec. It was undoubtedly in mint condition with not even a hint of a paint chip. The interior had been redone with new leather (not OEM colours) etc etc.. I sold it for more than most Z3 M's fetch in the UK in good condition.
The first pic below is of that 2.8 many years ago when I first bought it.
The pics below is what it ended up looking like by the time I sold it.
M version door mirrors, rearview mirror and side vents. Projector headlights, clear light covers on side and bumper.
Z4 steering wheel, white cluster dials facia, red/black leather interior, leather upholstered OEM roll hoops. Z3 M version center console with OEM clocks
M50 intake manifold upgrade, strutbar, Simota filter, billet aluminium oil filter cap with oil temp sensor delivering to the gauge on the dash / console, full M style quad / dual exhaust system and electronic chip yielding an extra 20hp.
Dual ear diff mounting. You can see the left / right exhausts which come from the headers at the front.
The question of 2.8 vs 3.0 is as described - a pre or post facelift body. From a motoring point of view, the 3.0 has loads more power added to greater economy by virtue of the double vs single vanos setup.
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
nice car,
I am not afraid of getting my hands dirty and have enough projects to tinker with, for once I thought I would buy a nice example to begin with. My wanted add has not led me to being inundated with offers of good cars, I have not had any one wanting to sell their car yet so don't feel I need to narrow the search by giving specific requirements as I am open minded to any 2.8/3.0 z3.
I viewed another 2.8 today advertised "as exceptional condition no expense spared in its maintenance" seller was a dealer of sorts and sadly it did not stand up to the description. How can some one expect so sell a car, any car for over top book price when it is wearing four different, unheard of "part worn" tyres and hasn't seen wax polish for years. The reason I walked away from this £5.500 z3 wasn't the fact it hadn't been washed it was the drip of oil from between the engine and gearbox together with the slipping clutch..... according to the seller "they all do that"....... yeah course they do mate... ....next.
I am not afraid of getting my hands dirty and have enough projects to tinker with, for once I thought I would buy a nice example to begin with. My wanted add has not led me to being inundated with offers of good cars, I have not had any one wanting to sell their car yet so don't feel I need to narrow the search by giving specific requirements as I am open minded to any 2.8/3.0 z3.
I viewed another 2.8 today advertised "as exceptional condition no expense spared in its maintenance" seller was a dealer of sorts and sadly it did not stand up to the description. How can some one expect so sell a car, any car for over top book price when it is wearing four different, unheard of "part worn" tyres and hasn't seen wax polish for years. The reason I walked away from this £5.500 z3 wasn't the fact it hadn't been washed it was the drip of oil from between the engine and gearbox together with the slipping clutch..... according to the seller "they all do that"....... yeah course they do mate... ....next.
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
Barry, nice pics, about time we had some of scarab 2??
Gaz, you were right to walk away from a £5500 Zed that's not mint. That is a seriously high price, especially during the winter months. Have you considered getting a car that's been well maintained but requires bodywork?
I bought mine with a huge history portfolio but had heavy stone chipping to the front and the rear quarter had been nudged so required work. I would much rather buy a car with "honest" marks than hidden damage. I had a full bare metal respray done so now looks mint.. I know every inch of what lies beneath as the bodyshop took plenty of photos for me and even with all that done it owes me nothing like £5500. May open some more doors for you?
Gaz, you were right to walk away from a £5500 Zed that's not mint. That is a seriously high price, especially during the winter months. Have you considered getting a car that's been well maintained but requires bodywork?
I bought mine with a huge history portfolio but had heavy stone chipping to the front and the rear quarter had been nudged so required work. I would much rather buy a car with "honest" marks than hidden damage. I had a full bare metal respray done so now looks mint.. I know every inch of what lies beneath as the bodyshop took plenty of photos for me and even with all that done it owes me nothing like £5500. May open some more doors for you?
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
Gaz.. wrote: ....... "part worn" tyres
'part worn' tyres? My tyres are now part worn as well
You could pay £35k for a brand new z4, or, expect a 15 year old car to need some work and use the £30k you have saved.
plus you can enjoy doing it up.
If you don't like rust, I would suggest you never look underneath one.. as nearly all of them need a good wire brushing and painting.
good luck in your search
Z3 2.8 Progress Journal (Mine)
Z3 1.9 Sport Progress Journal (Wifey's)
I have an element of 'M-styling' on my car, If that's a good enough reason for the manufacturers to adorn a 320 with the M badge, then its certainly a good enough reason for me..
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
I may get shot for this, but........ why a 2.8 or 3.0? Why not a M.
Given the figures you are talking you may be able to get a M perhaps with higher mileage but still a good base to work from (if spending time doing a bit of minor restoration work is your thing). And in all probability, a M would appreciate in value more and likely be considered a classic In future years. I see e36 M3s have recently come back in favour and a Z3M with less driver aids and pure white knuckle ride appeal will be a sought after car much like e30 325 sports or even M3.
Just my opinion though....
Given the figures you are talking you may be able to get a M perhaps with higher mileage but still a good base to work from (if spending time doing a bit of minor restoration work is your thing). And in all probability, a M would appreciate in value more and likely be considered a classic In future years. I see e36 M3s have recently come back in favour and a Z3M with less driver aids and pure white knuckle ride appeal will be a sought after car much like e30 325 sports or even M3.
Just my opinion though....
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
yeah but I bet your tyres don't have a little white label that says "part worn" on the side......gookah wrote:'part worn' tyres? My tyres are now part worn as wellGaz.. wrote: ....... "part worn" tyres
I would consider one but I doubt I would find a right hand drive one in my price bracket.the_youth wrote:I may get shot for this, but........ why a 2.8 or 3.0? Why not a M. ...
Re: Wanted z3 2.8 or 3.0
There was someone on here selling a M for £5k not long ago. High mileage but seemed a nice example.
But understand your point.
Wish I used my M more but not had a chance since the little one arrived a year ago. That's the biggest downside by far!
But understand your point.
Wish I used my M more but not had a chance since the little one arrived a year ago. That's the biggest downside by far!