Battery replacement in remote control

Post by **Robert T** » Thu 12 Oct, 2006 12:06

Key with Integrate Remote Control
To replace the battery in a key with integrated remote control, you will need:

1x replacement CR2016 lithium battery
A small Philips screwdriver
A small flat bladed screwdriver

Replacement batteries are not too difficult to come by - I bought a pack of 2 from Jessops for a fiver. Each remote only needs one battery, so I have a spare to put in my second remote when it finally dies.

1) Remove the small cover from the back of the key by inserting a small flat bladed screwdriver into the notch. Gently lever it outwards and the cover will pop off. This exposes two screws.

2) Remove the two Philips screws and put them somewhere safe. The back of the key should now just lift off.

3) Remove the old battery and dispose of properly. Insert new battery and test operation (the LED on the front should light fully when a button is pressed).

4) Replace back of the key, and insert screws. These are self-tapping screws, so to get them aligned on their old threads turn them as though unscrewing them for about half a turn before tightening them. Be careful tightening them as they seem to require quite a bit of force and it is easy to strip the heads.

5) Replace the cover and press down.

Job's a good 'un!

I know this is an easy job, but it was not obvious (at least to me!) how to get the key open. There are also one or two myths about keys that charge themselves - they don't - this kind of key just uses a long life Lithium battery. Note that the battery is not required to start the car, only to remotely operate the alarm and central locking.

Ian_C · Post by **Ian_C** » Sat 13 Jan, 2007 18:34

'Housebrick' transponder battery change

This is the transponder I'm showing you how to change the battery on:

To replace the battery you will need:

1 x small Phillips screwdriver
1 x MN21 battery

1. Undo the screw on the back of the transponder...

... and remove the cover:

2. Remove the old battery and replace with a new one (do this quickly or the remote will lose its code. $tealers won't quote a time however within 10 secs is achievable and works).

3. Refit the cover and do up the screw.

Simple as that!

Note - in the event that the transponder has lost its code you have to visit the $tealer to get them to reprogram it. This is about 45 mins work as it requires them gaining access to the control box in the car.

Lazeodoom · Post by **Lazeodoom** » Thu 01 May, 2008 11:48

Just a few notes for the housebrick fob: MN21 is also known as A23. I had a devil of a time finding the right size! Also, the gubbins inside the fob is quite flimsy and mine only held the battery when put back into the casing.

Post by **Robert T** » Thu 01 May, 2008 20:07

Lazeodoom wrote:Just a few notes for the housebrick fob: MN21 is also known as A23. I had a devil of a time finding the right size! Also, the gubbins inside the fob is quite flimsy and mine only held the battery when put back into the casing.

Just to clarify - the battery in the pictures above says 23A on it. This is actually a 12 Volt battery (a lot for volts for a such a widdy battery) and is commonly used in garage door openers. I managed to purchase one for such a purpose from a local ironmongers of all places.

Cheers R.

Ian_C · Post by **Ian_C** » Thu 01 May, 2008 20:15

Robert T wrote:
Lazeodoom wrote:Just a few notes for the housebrick fob: MN21 is also known as A23. I had a devil of a time finding the right size! Also, the gubbins inside the fob is quite flimsy and mine only held the battery when put back into the casing.
Just to clarify - the battery in the pictures above says 23A on it. This is actually a 12 Volt battery (a lot for volts for a such a widdy battery) and is commonly used in garage door openers. I managed to purchase one for such a purpose from a local ironmongers of all places.

Cheers R.

...although on the Duracell packaging it says A23

Just make sure you get a 12v battery that's the same size as the one you take out