Well, the bulbs lasted almost six years, one had blown and the other had gone intermittent, so I have been somewhat braver this time and have replaced both bulbs myself. Inflation seems to be rather high on these bulbs as they are now £6.20 plus VAT each from my local dealer.
I was initially going to just follow Mike's excellent guide, and having recently replaced the stereo with a new one myself, I was reasonably confident at getting into the stereo aperture. It turns out that the cage on the new stereo is held in place by bending parts of the cage outwards, so as this looked rather awkward I investigated the driver's footwell approach.The back of the console as seen from the driver's footwell
It was relatively easy to reach up to the back of the right-hand bulb (between the fan control and the temperature control) and unplug the connector from the back of the bulb. However on my car this bulb was stuck fast and no amount of pulling or wiggling would get it to come out. We will come back to this one in a moment.The position of the right-hand bulb
I had trouble finding the left-hand bulb, but once you know where it is, it should be possible to replace this without having to remove the heater controls. If you look at the first photo you can just see the yellow label on the bottom of the heater control panel - the bulb is at the opposite end of the label - nearest to the passenger footwell. This bulb removed very easily though with what I am about to do, I actually found it and fitted it after removing the heater controls - hopefully these pictures will mean you don't have to. Note that there is some metalwork for the glovebox on that side, so there is no access from that side.The position of the lower left-hand bulb
We now come back to my problematic right-hand bulb. As I couldn't see how the bulb was held in place (it is a little piece of the socket that acts like a spring clip and is just a push fit) I decided to remove the stereo cage and the heater controls as per Mike's article. Having done this, I managed to get some pliers onto it, but could not exert enough force to remove the bulb. In the end I found that if I unplugged the large round connector on the back of the fan control, I could rotate the entire heater control so that the dials were facing downwards and swing the far and (with the direction control) round and partly out into driver's footwell with the three bowden cables limiting the movement. This left the bulb suitably exposed and I could give it a good yank with the pliers.
I then reassembled the controls and checked everything worked before refitting the stereo. One thing that Mike describes above is the "pair of pins" and these can be seen below - so the only fasteners you need to worry about are the two screws and the rectangular plastic "staples" into which two plastic tabs locate. You just need to line the pins up first when reassembling.One of the locating pins for the heater controls
Now I know how to do it, I hope that the next time I have to change them, it will be a lot simpler.