Driving in snow...ASC on or off?
Driving in snow...ASC on or off?
I was driving back last night about 1am, the snow admittedly wasn't as much as it is right now. The main roads were fine, however once I came off, the suburben roads were a bit of a nightmare. I ended up fishtailing all over the place with the ASC light flashing like a christmas tree. Luckily no one else was on the road and I avoided hitting any parked cars!
Anyway, naturally I wasn't canning it or anything, was in 1st/2nd gear and no more than 15mph but the car was still prone to sliding and fishtailing, but once I got in back under control I switched the ASC off and i think it made a difference, as in it was no loner so prone to sliding and made the rest of the journey abit easier.
What's everyone's take on this? Should it on or off when driving in such conditions?
Anyway, naturally I wasn't canning it or anything, was in 1st/2nd gear and no more than 15mph but the car was still prone to sliding and fishtailing, but once I got in back under control I switched the ASC off and i think it made a difference, as in it was no loner so prone to sliding and made the rest of the journey abit easier.
What's everyone's take on this? Should it on or off when driving in such conditions?
Have driven on fresh snow in mine and I left the ASC very firmly ON. Yes, it was blinking away rather a lot, and all the more every time I turned the steering wheel, but it kept the car pointing in the right direction and I have nothing but praise for it. The only time I should have turned it off was when trying to do a hill start at a set of lights - it cut the power too much and the lights were turning back to red by the time I got away. Even with it on, you still have to treat snow with care, but it did at least make it possible to drive the 20 miles or so home.
Cheers R.
Cheers R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
- whiteminks
- Joined: Tue 26 Sep, 2006 09:58
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Hi BB,
Haven't you got DSC on your Zed? I have on my 02 2.2?
I was given a tip by someone that if you find the car doesn't seem to grip, switch the DSC off for a second, apply a little gentle throttle and then switch it straight back on again. It has worked for me getting up the hill outside out house in the snow.
Cheers P
Haven't you got DSC on your Zed? I have on my 02 2.2?
I was given a tip by someone that if you find the car doesn't seem to grip, switch the DSC off for a second, apply a little gentle throttle and then switch it straight back on again. It has worked for me getting up the hill outside out house in the snow.
Cheers P
big cheesy wrote:'I nearly cacked my trolleys till I quickly tuned in'. Yorkshire Cruise 2008.
Yep that's exactly what I thought, as you're bound to get wheel spin and the ASC cutting power at the slightest bit exasperated the problem in getting the car under control.c_w wrote:
I think sometimes with ASC on it won't drive very well, sometimes cutting power so much it doesn't go and turning it off (so light is on) is actually better as the power isn't cut at the slightest but of wheelspin.
Normally my is ALWAYS on and I've found it very helpful/useful in more than one occassion but last night in snow it seemed to be a bit of hinderance more than helping!
- PhoenixCoupe
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- Location: Mars
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- Joined: Tue 08 Jul, 2008 14:15
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I have an ABS fault and T/C fault which needs seeing to so neither work! and i made the 120 mile weekly trip at 4am this morning from leeds to bham.!! but i must say u cuple of heart in mouth moments! Use as high gear as possible and keeps revs as low as possible, if it is patchy snow never use the throttle wen going over the snow as your asking for trouble!!
Guys
Read the handbook. I don't have mine to hand right now but I'm sure it confirms that that in snow traction control should be switched off.
It is generally accepted that traction should be turned off in icey conditions to give more control using the throttle. Where possible a higher than normal gear should be used to limit revs and wheelspin. I often take away in 2nd gear when very icey (not something you normally try in a manual car so people not used to it - most automatics actually start in 2nd gear when in normal drive, sport mode changes this to first gear!)
Having said all of the above I have not tried in my Z3m as its warmly tucked up in the garage lots of torque for 2nd gear starts but not sure I would fancy it
Read the handbook. I don't have mine to hand right now but I'm sure it confirms that that in snow traction control should be switched off.
It is generally accepted that traction should be turned off in icey conditions to give more control using the throttle. Where possible a higher than normal gear should be used to limit revs and wheelspin. I often take away in 2nd gear when very icey (not something you normally try in a manual car so people not used to it - most automatics actually start in 2nd gear when in normal drive, sport mode changes this to first gear!)
Having said all of the above I have not tried in my Z3m as its warmly tucked up in the garage lots of torque for 2nd gear starts but not sure I would fancy it
According to the BMW and TCS - our AA / RAC equivalent - winter driving courses I've done.
DSC should be left ON if the snow has been packed down and is thus constant and largely predictable. Typically this is common where you get a winter permafrost.
DSC should be OFF in the type of conditions the UK has been experiencing today, because the snow/slush/ice is creating a slippery unpredictable layer between the tire and road.
DSC is designed to intercede when the surface changes from predictable to occasionally unpredictable.
A few basic tips:
- very smooth on the throttle
- use higher gears to avoid putting down too much torque
- try to use the brakes as little as possible, anticipate more than normal and use engine braking through the gears (but NOT 2nd to 1st as this will put down too much torque)
- if you have to use your brakes gently feather them any more and you can induce a spin
- don't stop and start, keep your momentum
- leave plenty of space between you and other road users
Alternatively winter tires and a set of low profile snow chains can come in handy form time time
<img src="http://api.photoshop.com/home_bf94b49cf ... 3aa5a497f4" alt="" width="" height="" border="0" />
<img src="http://api.photoshop.com/home_bf94b49cf ... 3172cabe1b" alt="" width="" height="" border="0" />
DSC should be left ON if the snow has been packed down and is thus constant and largely predictable. Typically this is common where you get a winter permafrost.
DSC should be OFF in the type of conditions the UK has been experiencing today, because the snow/slush/ice is creating a slippery unpredictable layer between the tire and road.
DSC is designed to intercede when the surface changes from predictable to occasionally unpredictable.
A few basic tips:
- very smooth on the throttle
- use higher gears to avoid putting down too much torque
- try to use the brakes as little as possible, anticipate more than normal and use engine braking through the gears (but NOT 2nd to 1st as this will put down too much torque)
- if you have to use your brakes gently feather them any more and you can induce a spin
- don't stop and start, keep your momentum
- leave plenty of space between you and other road users
Alternatively winter tires and a set of low profile snow chains can come in handy form time time
<img src="http://api.photoshop.com/home_bf94b49cf ... 3aa5a497f4" alt="" width="" height="" border="0" />
<img src="http://api.photoshop.com/home_bf94b49cf ... 3172cabe1b" alt="" width="" height="" border="0" />
Last edited by greg_ch on Tue 03 Feb, 2009 07:44, edited 1 time in total.
Just to throw a spanner in the works as my Zed is an auto what is best for me
Having just looked out of the window and a 50 mile slide to work on the cards in the morning good advice would be appreciated
Having just looked out of the window and a 50 mile slide to work on the cards in the morning good advice would be appreciated
Why does mineral water that takes a 1000 years to flow up through the earth, have a sell by date on the bottle?
Kind of glad this question has been asked, as it made me re-read my owners manual.
Just realised I have both DSC and DTC (Dynamic Traction Control) I thought the latter was a replacement for DSC, but is actually an optimised version. Also read, for DTC to be activated the telltale light must be ON. opposite to DSC where the telltale light must be off for it to be activated.
Just realised I have both DSC and DTC (Dynamic Traction Control) I thought the latter was a replacement for DSC, but is actually an optimised version. Also read, for DTC to be activated the telltale light must be ON. opposite to DSC where the telltale light must be off for it to be activated.
A quick question, on a 97 2.8 with ASC, does it just cut the power or does it brake the wheels as well??
I used to have a '97 2.8 Z3 50k FOR SALE £4699 Shorter 'M' Cup Sport gear knob,M Steering wheel, Alpine / Infinity audio, 18" Alpina style wheels, Clear indicators all round, cold air feed and modified airbox. Miss April in the '09 Calendar.
Asc
Both actions take place at different speeds - but it's the braking action which causes problems.
When one wheel loses grip and spins, the differential causes the other wheel to lose torque and stop. The ASC senses the difference in rotational speed, and applies the brake on the spinning wheel to force torque through the diff to the stationary wheel.
As the braking action is very rapid, the wheel may lock instead of just slowing down, which really confuses things.
This means that the stationary wheel - which had grip - is suddenly fed with more torque than it may not be able to handle, and can also lose its grip.
If this process is combines with even slight cornering, the resultant centrifugal force can cause the (now grip-less) rear end to slide - hence the problems with ASC turned on.
It depends on conditions, but ASC is not a save-all for use on snow and ice - it's main function is to provide traction, as distinct from stability - the two do not always go together.
A similar problem in that a car with a clutch pack LSD can suddenly have the diff action locked up, so promoting a loss of traction on both rear wheels in slippery conditions.
Likewise, the ABS is confused on snow, but it is inoperative at under about 10 mph, when the best braking medium is a locked wheel, which builds up a wedge of snow in front of it.
The best way to drive on snow and ice is to treat the throttle pedal as if it were red hot, use high gears, and apply ots of anticipation. better still, stay at home!
When one wheel loses grip and spins, the differential causes the other wheel to lose torque and stop. The ASC senses the difference in rotational speed, and applies the brake on the spinning wheel to force torque through the diff to the stationary wheel.
As the braking action is very rapid, the wheel may lock instead of just slowing down, which really confuses things.
This means that the stationary wheel - which had grip - is suddenly fed with more torque than it may not be able to handle, and can also lose its grip.
If this process is combines with even slight cornering, the resultant centrifugal force can cause the (now grip-less) rear end to slide - hence the problems with ASC turned on.
It depends on conditions, but ASC is not a save-all for use on snow and ice - it's main function is to provide traction, as distinct from stability - the two do not always go together.
A similar problem in that a car with a clutch pack LSD can suddenly have the diff action locked up, so promoting a loss of traction on both rear wheels in slippery conditions.
Likewise, the ABS is confused on snow, but it is inoperative at under about 10 mph, when the best braking medium is a locked wheel, which builds up a wedge of snow in front of it.
The best way to drive on snow and ice is to treat the throttle pedal as if it were red hot, use high gears, and apply ots of anticipation. better still, stay at home!
Thanks for the reply Mike
Makes sense, and I guess being one of the first versions it is pretty rudimentary compared to the latest types. The snow and ice really did confuse it - with the rear end bouncing up and down - most probably as it applied the brakes. I had thought that it just cut the throttle.
I usually drive with ASC off but it did help on my drive which was totally iced over. Compared to the other car and the Van I was also driving, it is definatly not intended for snow and ice, grip was shocking....I just had to get it home and into the garage though.
....us Africans are not used to Snow and ice!
Makes sense, and I guess being one of the first versions it is pretty rudimentary compared to the latest types. The snow and ice really did confuse it - with the rear end bouncing up and down - most probably as it applied the brakes. I had thought that it just cut the throttle.
I usually drive with ASC off but it did help on my drive which was totally iced over. Compared to the other car and the Van I was also driving, it is definatly not intended for snow and ice, grip was shocking....I just had to get it home and into the garage though.
....us Africans are not used to Snow and ice!
I used to have a '97 2.8 Z3 50k FOR SALE £4699 Shorter 'M' Cup Sport gear knob,M Steering wheel, Alpine / Infinity audio, 18" Alpina style wheels, Clear indicators all round, cold air feed and modified airbox. Miss April in the '09 Calendar.
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- Joined: Thu 06 Nov, 2008 19:58
- Posts: 87
We live on a hill and as I was in Darlington today we couldn't car share and I took the Z4 to the station - bit of overnight snow / frost so the road was a mixture of snow with a frozen crust and ice.
Backed out, made sure I was straightened up and set off - no problems at first very steady - about 50 yds before the end of the road it steepens - lost traction and came to a halt. DSC was on at this point and the car basically just stood still - as soon as a wheel lost grip the system braked it. Turned the DCT on - see Zed_Steve post above - a little better did go forward a bit and no sign of it getting out of shape.
In the end turned everything off - except the engine - and just used the clutch / throttle to induce a bit of wheelspin to cut down through the crust on the snow, balanced clutch and power when I got some grip and stop/started my way to the top - no sign of it getting out of shape either. Not sure that the neighbours appreciated it at 6:20 this morning!
Backed out, made sure I was straightened up and set off - no problems at first very steady - about 50 yds before the end of the road it steepens - lost traction and came to a halt. DSC was on at this point and the car basically just stood still - as soon as a wheel lost grip the system braked it. Turned the DCT on - see Zed_Steve post above - a little better did go forward a bit and no sign of it getting out of shape.
In the end turned everything off - except the engine - and just used the clutch / throttle to induce a bit of wheelspin to cut down through the crust on the snow, balanced clutch and power when I got some grip and stop/started my way to the top - no sign of it getting out of shape either. Not sure that the neighbours appreciated it at 6:20 this morning!
Hers: Z4 2.0i Sp --------------------- His: Z3 2.8
DTC etc
Makes you wonder why you have paid for all these gizmos, doesn't it?
I suspect that - apart from making money for BMW etc - they are an attempt to sanitise the car so the unskilled/unwary Americans can drive a powerful car.
If the ASC or ABS on my Z3 failed, I would simply have them disabled and do without - it would not worry me at all.
I never saw any divers who had problems withtheir E-type Jaguars etc, which only had an LSD . . .
I suspect that - apart from making money for BMW etc - they are an attempt to sanitise the car so the unskilled/unwary Americans can drive a powerful car.
If the ASC or ABS on my Z3 failed, I would simply have them disabled and do without - it would not worry me at all.
I never saw any divers who had problems withtheir E-type Jaguars etc, which only had an LSD . . .