Z1 Door specialists - help please......

sfh3l · Post by **sfh3l** » Sat 24 Feb, 2007 14:06

How unexpected is that title eh?

My doors have started giving trouble, and in the interests of both security and weather proofing, I do need to sort them out. For a while the driver's door has not worked reliably on the outside button.

What happened when you pushed the button to open the door is that it "clunked" off the lock, and dropped slightly, but there wass no motor operation. If you pushed the door down and got in, the inside handle then needed 2 pulls, the first of which got the door to the very bottom of its travel, and the second shut it again. However, the inside handle was always a little temperamental about how far or hard one had to pull it to achieve nirvana. Lately this has got worse, and the door is very reluctant to work, even on the inside handle.

I have now had a fiddle and done some experimentation, and am hoping that someone can point me in the right direction, given my findings below:

Door opening: The door opens OK on the outside button, motoring all the way down. It also opens perfectly on the inside handle.

Door shutting: Neither the inside handle nor the outside button work on their own. However, if you pull the inside handle while pushing in the outside button it works every time! This is fine from outside the car, but can be a little tricky when inside and trying to close the door behind you.

The door can also be made to motor shut via handle or button if I alarm/unalarm the car via the key fob at the same time. This clearly implies some interaction with the central locking. It works OK, but means I am for ever setting the alarm off briefly, which is a pain.

I have the BMW manual, and am only marginally the wiser for it! I sense that it may be that the microswitch on the locking plate needs adjusting, but am reluctant to take the cill, wing and door off in their entirety if there is an easier way.

Do any of you engineering scholars and Z1 experts have an easy fix for this? If not, I'd settle for a difficult fix if it did indeed FIX!

I sit here, doors open, waiting for your replies (thank god for a heated garage!).

Thanks, as ever, in advance.

Nik Rite · Post by **Nik Rite** » Sat 24 Feb, 2007 21:04

Hi There, It sounds to me you do need to to remove the sill first then the rear wing,,,sorry!!!To check this id open the yellow mltipin plug and check the continuity of the pins as you press the outside button or the inside lever .The micro switch is not adjustable,bm pop rivet it in place and marked it with paint. I dont think its seriously wrong, its either the microswith has failed or lost its adjustment or the pushrods from the inside handle or from the outside need adjusting. Nik

SCORPION · Post by **SCORPION** » Sat 24 Feb, 2007 21:29

For wing and sill panel removal see
http://www.bmwz1.co.uk/z1body.htm
I followed this, it's not difficult. I gave the inside of the panels a good clean and polish (prevents door scratches). Also cleaned up the slider channels for the door with WD 40 to get rid of grit and old grease and then regreased.

sfh3l · Post by **sfh3l** » Sun 25 Feb, 2007 09:46

Thanks for the ideas guys.

I have already had the wing, cill and door off! Did this over Christmas. The lugs on the cill and rear wing were very tight in their locators, and I was very stressed about breaking the lugs off. I checked for anything loose and cleaned everything up - including the runners. I didn't get the latch plate off, as I chickened out at that point.

When I refitted the door it was working perfectly, on both inside and outside control, and all was well. Needless to say I refitted the bloody wing and cill, and then spent a whole weekend polishing the scratches out of the door panel and only then did the damn thing start playing up again!!!!

I have the BMW manual for the Z1 (well, a photocopy at least) and it says the microswitch is screwed to the latch plate, and talks of adjustments that can be made. However, I have checked Realoem and after a quick search there appears to be no separate microswitch for the latch, just a replacement latch - at $378 which is a little scary!

Half the problem with this is that I don't actually understand what is happening with the various linkages and switches. Usually, with anything complicated I can just look at it carefully and understand how it works. However, with the Z1 at least half of the bits are hidden in the structure of the car, and I just don't get it.

I see no point whatsoever in approaching a dealer, as they will probably know even less about the Z1 than I do, but will still charge me for their "specialist knowledge". I had this when I took my CSL into a dealer for a routine MOT, and asked them to check the tracking at the front. When I picked the car up they said they hadn't been able to do the tracking as they didn't have the figures that it should be! I told them I have a BMW manual for the car with the numbers in it, and they said it would be really helpful if I could bring that in next time! It seems their expertise these days extends as far as replacing various modules and VANOS units.

Does anyone out there have an independent that they have used who has experience and knowledge specifically relating to the Z1, and even more specifically its doors?

I guess if I can't find anyone I'll go for broke and have the whole thing apart again, as it is all I can do. This time I will get the latch off and look more closely at the microswitch.

Nik Rite · Post by **Nik Rite** » Sun 25 Feb, 2007 10:49

Hi 31, I dont think its badly wrong. I would not remove the microswitch and plate assembly because the position of the whole plate is quite ctitical. Can you use a multimeter? all you need to test is for continuity across the terminals of the two stage micro switch.yellow plug. The microswitch is slightly unusual and even though the name of the manufacturer is printed on its side they were unable to supply it!!! BMW only. From using a multimeter and pulling the internal lever and then the outside button you can determine where the problem is.The top button works two push rods that can be adjusted . They go down to the micro switch. The lever does the same. I have made a cd of an article i wrote about a year ago mosty on the doors. Have you got it ? no charge just buy me a pint! I dont know of anyone i can recogmend but i know people have "struggled" with Munich Legnds. Nik

Pat Slade · Post by **Pat Slade** » Sun 25 Feb, 2007 11:17

I can endorse Nik's comments, particularly as regards moving the microswitch. It must be the last thing you do! When I went to Munich for the German club's technical meeting we took a couple of cars apart. One had a door problem and having moved the microswitch a fraction it was an absolute s.d to get it back in the correct position. I think you should definitely use a meter, as suggested, in the first place to narrow the search.
Good luck

Pat

sfh3l · Post by **sfh3l** » Sun 25 Feb, 2007 15:24

Chaps,

That is just the sort of direction I needed - THANK YOU both.
Nik, any article you have would be most helpful, as I am clearly not being helped much by the "go ahead and adjust the microswitch" BMW manual.
If you have a copy, what format is it in? I have broadband if you want to send, or I'll send you a prepaid jiffy if that is better - just let me know.

Thanks also Pat, your experience is really helpful too. I appreciate that the problem I have is probably down to a really small set up issue, and that I risk making things far worse if I aproach without a clear idea of what I'm doing. I am fully conversant with a multimeter. Having chased, traced and sorted a number of very peculiar electical anomalies on my CSL I am OK on that sort of thing. As I say though, it's just a basic understanding of what happens on the Z1 that has eluded me thus far.

I know that I'll get to the bottom of this eventually, and then look back and laugh. However, the help of people who have been there before or just know more is going to make it a whole lot easier!

Nik, let me know how I can get hold of your brain cells!

Thanks for now.............

Nik Rite · Post by **Nik Rite** » Sun 25 Feb, 2007 15:37

Ive got the cd at work and its easier if i copy it monday and send it to you. Send me a pm wih your address. Its a microsoft word document with photos etc Ive also got the full wiring diagram but i dont think youll need it. I feel the problem is mechanical . Its a bit of a hobby horse of mine, but im no expert!!!! Nik

sfh3l · Post by **sfh3l** » Sun 25 Feb, 2007 16:06

Thanks Nik - PM on its way to you.....

Racing Tortoise · Post by **Racing Tortoise** » Fri 02 Mar, 2007 08:17

Munich Legends ought to know what they are doing with the doors.

They stripped mine down and refreshed all the mechanisms and, so far, in 18 months and 14,000 kms (touch wood) the doors have not given any trouble at all.