Dash removal - any suggestions?

[Motorhead]

I'm about to remove the dash and centre console so I can get a split seam in the leather repaired. Does anyone have any suggestions on how this is best done? Thanks.

[Jonco]

This may help with centre console
https://wiki.bentleypublishers.com/disp ... .+513-3%29 -
sorry haven't got anything for dash.

[tg184]

"1996 Roadster center dashboard illustrated. Other models are similar."

Or possibly not

[Jet]

Hey MH,

The centre console is easy, remove the front and rear ashtrays and the console pocket, screws in there, then slide backwards. Remove heater control knobs and radio, 4x screws around there removes the facia, un-screw the gear knob and the gaiter pops out. The instrument cover comes in 2 parts, 2x screws upside down next to the speedo and rev limiter, cover comes off, then 2x near the windscreen, 2nd part comes off. The clocks have 2 facing forwards next to temp and fuel gauge. Disconnect wiring loom and remove instrument panel, but the Dash on the other hand, Ivor is the man for that.

[resunoiz]

made this work a year ago

be sure you fix harder enough the leather.

don't hurry up stertching, making this work takes his time.
before making it, hidratate the leather very very intensively.

[Southernboy]

A word of advice....from someone who has done this "leather" replacement... ie. I had a trimmer cut & stitch everything, but I glued / fitted the leather to all the parts.
Do NOT wet / hydrate or apply oily creams etc etc to the leather before fitting it!!!! If you've ever seen an old western where the guy is wrapped into a wet hide and left in the sun, you will know what happens...it shrinks from the stretched position. And "wet" leather becomes very very stretchy.... don't do it!!
You actually want to apply the leather with as little stretching as possible, but as smooth a fit to the shape as you can achieve... All leather will shrink over time, that's why you're faced with the problem now. The OEM covering has shrunk due to heat, not because it has become unglued.
Second point, you will need to find the thinnest possible leather. When folding the leather it will cause wrinkles on the underside of your object and the thinner the leather, the better / easier the fitting. These can be erradicated by cutting out "wedges" to make a smoother flatter underside finish.
Third point, there is contact glue and then there's contact glue. Some are heaps stronger than others. Auto trimmers use a really potent glue which dries rapidly, and sticks really well. My advice is you make a call to one of the manufacturing companies, and have a chat to their Technical advisor before purchasing. It will be worth the 10 mins of research before you start.
Fourth point, If it is at all possible, I would suggest you pay a visit to an auto trimmer, and consider the use of a faux leather. (Vinyl). It is aprox 1mm -.05mm thick depending on make, has a nylon fabric backing and is much more durable than leather, it is not as subject to shrinkage, although it can crack after 20 years as it dries if left untreated. It is also easier to work with, and does not stretch to the same degree as leather, elliminating the temptation to fit it too tightly over the base object. It has a wider range of finishes on the cosmetic face, and your options will be greater. Colour fastness is ensured vs leather. If treated with approriate surficants when cleaning / polishing it will outlast leather.
If used on the instrument cluster and the passenger dash airbag sections, you will achieve a highly professional finish indistinguishable from the real thing. It can be stitched exactly like leather.
I must add, the quality of Vinyls is exceptional compared to what was available 20 years ago....thank the Americans and their extensive use in their auto manufacturing. The finishes will not become "shiny" over time like the old days stuff, and can be wiped with a wet / damp cloth or polish them without absorption of moisture / oils which will effect the glue you have used to fix it with.
In the end, it is the durable, professional and aesthetic result which makes for a great job.

[Motorhead]

Well, I got the dash out, but it was a major job. Once a few peripherial bits are removed, such as the dials pod, the whole of what is left in front of the driver and passenger is a single unit consisting of the radio/AC surround, windscreen vents, leather pieces in the footwell, metal mesh bits, etc. Its glued and rivited so cannot be broken down. It is all fixed to a rigid bar that goes from one side to the other and onto which the steering column is bolted.

To get the dash out you have to unscrew 2 bolts on either side, one behind the air vent (which you have to get out first) and one below it just visible when you remove the trim below the A pillar. Also remove the two bolts holding the steering column up, discontect all the electrics, heater, etc and rotate the whole dash up and towards you. Pull hard and, hey presto, the whole thing comes out. I'll post some pictures.

The dash is now at Trimania to have the split seam repaired. When its back I've just have to get it all back in. Hey ho!

[Motorhead]

Sorry for the delay, but here are some pictures of the final stages of dash removal...


Above, everything has been disconnected and the lower trim pieces in the foot well removed. There are about 5 screws in either foot well which hold the dash in place. These need to be found and unscrewed. On the right you can see the circular hole where the bolt goes to fix the dash to the frame. There is another below this and two on the other side. The upper bolt is accessed by taking out the air vent. The lower bolt by bending the leather covering it back. The wires on the right are for the curtesy light, there are others for the speaker below the wire mesh. The air con trim unit is held in place by two hidden screws, one behind the clock and the other opposite it on the other side. The actual air con unit is held in place by hex screws visible from the front.



The drivers side is a little more complicated with more wires to disconnect. The dial pod comes out easy, its shroud is held in place by 3 screws and the dial pod by long hex bolts you can see from the front. The actual speedo unit just unplugs. Again, on the left you can see one of the bolt holes. The steering wheel bolts on to the steel rod which goes horizontally across behind the dials, the radio and curved leather piece in front of the passenger. The steering wheel drops down so I didn't need to take it off. The whole thing can be rotated out gently (!!!), its not heavy. You can see the split seam which is why the dash had to come out.



There is not much left once the dash is out. The centre part looks a bit of a mess as it has the wires and amp for the radio , the air con unit, clock, alarm and various wires.



And here is the dash out. The various parts are riveted and glued together so couldn't be separated in-situ.

It looks a bit daunting, but the leather is repaired and the whole thing in back in now and, amazingly, everything works okay. It did take a while to connect everything back up correctly, but what else are coffee and Christmas holidays for? While the seats and dash were out I thoroughly cleaned and fed the leather, touched up scuffs, refurbed the seats, had the seat backs repainted and re-dyed the faded carpet. It now looks great and I'm really pleased I managed to do this without breaking something or having to call in paid help. I'll post pictures when I get the chance.

[fluoman]

Hi,

Same problem or same Dashboard ?

http://www.ebay.de/itm/BMW-Z1-Armaturen ... 2c7b862129

@S@P fluo

[Motorhead]

Same problem, different dash. I had mine repaired for £150 and its back in now. You can buy this piece new from BMW for £1000.

[Green Genie]

Wow... top work Motorhead

I presume the split was caused by not enough leather feed (usualy first owner) and plenty of sun abroad. I always feed the leather in mine 2/3 times a year to stop it drying out... There's a lot of leather in a Z1

You've done very well to take all that apart and put it back without breaking/losing anything, certainly not something I'd take on.

BTW You mentioned your car has A/C? Really or are you referring to the cooling side of the heater?

[Motorhead]

Here are some pics of everything back in place... but first a picture of the repaired split seam which caused all this bother. I think the repair looks almost OEM so very pleased with it, it cost £150. Make sure you feed your leather to avoid this happening.


Everything is back in place; everything works and nothing rattles so that's a good result.



While the seats and dash were out I refurbished the leather, I post that as a separate thread. The carpets were a little faded so I used Upholstery Fabric Paint to get it back to its orginal black. Midnight Black was a good match. 2 cans were sufficient.

http://www.fabricspray.co.uk/shop/uphol ... ight-black

Good catch on the AC - I meant heater. It doesn't have an AC of course.

[Jet]

Thats pretty impressive MH, and the results look very good, from what it was.
I might give the carpet dye a go, but from memory it wasn't black carpet, it was grey? Or has mine simply faded?

Thanks