I believe that there may be a problem with my driver's door.
It played up a while ago, by not shutting completely (ie not latching in the up position), but then appeared to correct this and had been fine since.
Now it appears to work intermittently correctly.
Sometimes it will not shut on the outside button, but works fine on the inside handle.
Other times when opening from the outside, the button is sufficient to get it off the latch, but there is no sign of a motor working. If you then push the door right down into the latched open position, it will motor shut perfectly on the inside handle.
Then, some of the time it's absolutely fine.
I guess I'm asking if anyone has any immediate ideas as to where I should look first. I've looked at Paul Drawmer's excellent article on door removal etc, but am completely daunted by that as a possibility. Thanks in advance, as ever.
Z1 doors (Ouch!)
Z1 doors (Ouch!)
Best regards,
Sam Lever.
Anyone who says money isn't everything hasn't found the right classic car yet.
Z1 - 3.0csl - 987 Boxster - Rolls 20 - '72 911T - 997 GTS
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Sam Lever.
Anyone who says money isn't everything hasn't found the right classic car yet.
Z1 - 3.0csl - 987 Boxster - Rolls 20 - '72 911T - 997 GTS
Black Sport Evo M3 & SG M3 CSL & Austin 7 Special - now someone else's pleasure
Blue 2800cs - now someone else's pain
Old cars - the original "Not for Profit" organisation
Independent Financial Adviser in Buckingham
My Financial Blog
I have the exact same problem but so far I have opted not to touch anything as long as I can open the door from the inside.
It seems like sometimes (in my case most of the time) the outside button unlatches the door but doesn't engage the motor.
I also would welcome any advice on the matter.
Rgds,
JW
It seems like sometimes (in my case most of the time) the outside button unlatches the door but doesn't engage the motor.
I also would welcome any advice on the matter.
Rgds,
JW
- Paul Drawmer
- Z Register member
- Joined: Fri 10 Oct, 2003 10:05
- Posts: 147
- Location: Banbury
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Hi Sam and John,
My initial guess from the description would be to look at the operating rod length for the outside release button.
It sounds as if the button isn't operating far enough to engage the motor switch.
Take off the wing (or the inner trim, I can't remember) so that you can see what's going on behind the button. Operate button in usual manner, so that the door unlatches. Then, using a door release probe (srewdriver) push on the rod that the door button is pushing on, and see if then works, indicating that the button needs more travel.
If the door now motors shut in the normal way, then you will need to lengthen the rod which is pushed by the door button.
Edited so say: The rods are meant to be adjustable. I can't remember where the adjusters are, except that the one behind the inner door cill adjusts the operation of the interior catch, so I suspect the adjusters you will need to look at will be in the area between the actual lock mech and the door push button.
Hope it helps
My initial guess from the description would be to look at the operating rod length for the outside release button.
It sounds as if the button isn't operating far enough to engage the motor switch.
Take off the wing (or the inner trim, I can't remember) so that you can see what's going on behind the button. Operate button in usual manner, so that the door unlatches. Then, using a door release probe (srewdriver) push on the rod that the door button is pushing on, and see if then works, indicating that the button needs more travel.
If the door now motors shut in the normal way, then you will need to lengthen the rod which is pushed by the door button.
Edited so say: The rods are meant to be adjustable. I can't remember where the adjusters are, except that the one behind the inner door cill adjusts the operation of the interior catch, so I suspect the adjusters you will need to look at will be in the area between the actual lock mech and the door push button.
Hope it helps
Thanks for this Paul.
I guess that is a job for a nice day! I feared it would be a wing-off job to find out, but that sounds within my expertise. Not sure whether patience runs that far though.......
I guess that is a job for a nice day! I feared it would be a wing-off job to find out, but that sounds within my expertise. Not sure whether patience runs that far though.......
Best regards,
Sam Lever.
Anyone who says money isn't everything hasn't found the right classic car yet.
Z1 - 3.0csl - 987 Boxster - Rolls 20 - '72 911T - 997 GTS
Black Sport Evo M3 & SG M3 CSL & Austin 7 Special - now someone else's pleasure
Blue 2800cs - now someone else's pain
Old cars - the original "Not for Profit" organisation
Independent Financial Adviser in Buckingham
My Financial Blog
Sam Lever.
Anyone who says money isn't everything hasn't found the right classic car yet.
Z1 - 3.0csl - 987 Boxster - Rolls 20 - '72 911T - 997 GTS
Black Sport Evo M3 & SG M3 CSL & Austin 7 Special - now someone else's pleasure
Blue 2800cs - now someone else's pain
Old cars - the original "Not for Profit" organisation
Independent Financial Adviser in Buckingham
My Financial Blog
I was thinking actually that what I might do next time it plays up is to swap over the door control modules, just to see if this has an effect. I was working on the basis that if it corrected the problem, then the driver's was faulty, and that if it didn't, we could regard it as OK. (always looking for the easy answers first)
Best regards,
Sam Lever.
Anyone who says money isn't everything hasn't found the right classic car yet.
Z1 - 3.0csl - 987 Boxster - Rolls 20 - '72 911T - 997 GTS
Black Sport Evo M3 & SG M3 CSL & Austin 7 Special - now someone else's pleasure
Blue 2800cs - now someone else's pain
Old cars - the original "Not for Profit" organisation
Independent Financial Adviser in Buckingham
My Financial Blog
Sam Lever.
Anyone who says money isn't everything hasn't found the right classic car yet.
Z1 - 3.0csl - 987 Boxster - Rolls 20 - '72 911T - 997 GTS
Black Sport Evo M3 & SG M3 CSL & Austin 7 Special - now someone else's pleasure
Blue 2800cs - now someone else's pain
Old cars - the original "Not for Profit" organisation
Independent Financial Adviser in Buckingham
My Financial Blog
doors
Hi Guys I'm with Paul on this and I wouldn't swap the control modules. Both the inside door pull and the ouside door button actuate a two stage micro switch just below the door motor. Therefore if by pulling the inside door lever everything works fine it cant be the module. It must be between the barrel and the lengh of the pushrods from the barrel down to that common microswitch. The rods can be exposed by removing a little plastic cover at your shoulder . The roof needs to be down and the rear parcel shelf up. When you remove the cover you will see the lock barrel which moves in and out. This presses on two vertical push rods the length of these can be adjusted by turnind a ball quick link like the ones you may have seen on the steering arms of tamiya cars!!! youll have to fiddle to decide which way to turn them, they are very stiff.!! hoe this helps and keep us posted!!! Nik