zroadster.net

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sun 29 Jul, 2012 11:23

Another voyage into the bowels of the Z3 yielded nothing untoward !!

Looks like a diagnostic intervention !!
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Mon 30 Jul, 2012 12:04

Anyone know if the pump is accessible ?
Louie

by **Brian H** » Mon 30 Jul, 2012 16:41

Leadpipelouie wrote:Anyone know if the pump is accessible ?
Louie

If you are looking for the fuel pump there is an access flap situated behind the drivers seat, the carpet is covering the area but is a perforated area for you to gain access, maybe easier to whip the seat out as access is limited behind. Be wary if the seat is out and you turn on the ignition you will create an airbag fault! This requires a code reader to reset.

Brian

by **Leadpipelouie** » Mon 30 Jul, 2012 18:10

Brian,
I feel humbled mate -i read elsewhere it was behind the passenger seat so must have been a LH drive car/mag !
I will try to get a live feed to it and see what I get out of it .
ta,
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sat 11 Aug, 2012 12:03

Hi,
well, for those of you who cannot contain their disinterest I may have a solution.
As usual, the simplest of things -I "found" a 2 pin female connector coming off the back of the injector rail (it would never have run without it connected ) .
Where does it go as I can't see a male connection ???
Louie (slightly happier)

by **Mike Fishwick** » Sat 11 Aug, 2012 12:14

Am I correct in thinking that you still have an engine which spins on the starter, but does not fire up?

I have not read this entire thread word for word, but after fitting a different engine - even of the same type - there will be a conflict between the codes currently held in the ECU of the new engine, and the immobiliser, which was last used by the old engine. As I understad it, these operate by matching a pair of rolling codes to enable the injectors to operate.

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sat 11 Aug, 2012 12:34

Mike,
thanks for the words, however, I kept the entire loom from the old engine (apart from the one I have just found).
Yes, she spins over but not pumping fuel.
Louie

by **Brian H** » Sat 11 Aug, 2012 13:16

I was getting worried Louie, I was beginning to think the car had been chopped in to a thousand pieces :wink:

. Have you got a picture of the connector by any chance?

Edit: Below is a picture of the top of the engine along the injector rail, I can see 5 electrical connectors (without stripping down my car too much). Is it connector 5 by any chance?

Connector 5 is below the manifold between cylinder 5 & 6 (cylinder 1 being at the front)

Whilst having a look today I also found this: -

Which turned out to be a mouse nest :shock:

by **Robert T** » Sat 11 Aug, 2012 15:17

I've heard of Rats Nest Wiring, but Mouse Nest Wiring is a new one. Has removing it got rid of any squeaks?

Cheers R.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk 2

by **Brian H** » Sat 11 Aug, 2012 15:35

Removed

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sat 11 Aug, 2012 16:30

Hi Brian, many thanks for the pics.
It is certainly in that area -there are two conduits exiting there and it is the smaller of the two (2 prong) .
I kept the original manifold from the saloon engine as I fitted the one from the car and that has one of those barrel-shaped connectors but this is one of those square spring-loaded ones.
I will dig the saloon manifold out and look for evidence of a location there.
thanks again -hope it is accessible (I know it won't be ) and may have to remove the manifold again !

Not into pyrotechnics yet but experience has taught me to walk away for a few days and come back with fresh enthusiasm -it generally works .
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sat 11 Aug, 2012 21:34

Well,
found the connector by touch -no chance of actually seeing it -and it is a barrel-shaped one -my connector is square.
Anyway, I retrieved the old manifold and the loom has that barrel connector-obvious since it came with the engine !
I connect the comparable 2 wires together -brown/slate and red/brown and plugged it into the "spare" connector.
Spun her over and still nothing !

This car is looking like a breaker !!

Some more reflection needed then make a decision !
Louie

by **XVar** » Sun 12 Aug, 2012 01:20

Don't give up yet! Have you hooked it up to INPA or anything? If you can get the accessory circuit live you should be able to get readings from it, might give you some vital clues...

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sun 12 Aug, 2012 21:41

Hi Xvar -not given up yet-plan to get a diagnostics (INPA?) done -failing that , break it.
Problem is, it is holding up a lot of other things like getting my Jag on the road, getting the house ready for selling
and prepping a couple of karts for some fun.
Watch this space.
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Wed 15 Aug, 2012 12:49

We have a runner.
Many thanks for all the help on this site followed swiftly by an apology !!

This fault appears to have been self-inflicted inasmuch as I failed to push home a connector on the ECU !!

These are a little unusual in that they have a little handle which when partially located are pulled back in order to lock it fully home .
This i failed to do but now I have a running engine albeit with a blown exhaust manifold joint where it meets the exhaust system - remember I cut these nuts off with a junior hacksaw and was worried they would not have enough thread left to seal the unit ???
Hopefully, it is just a matter of more tightening or else fit 4 threaded sleeves which will make use of more of the remaining threads.

Lessons learned
Don't ever throw away anything from the car until completely satisfied you won't need it again.
Double check all connections !
Join a good forum !
Don't think the job is done until you are MOT'd and on the road -so not tempting fate.

Thanks
Louie

by **Brian H** » Wed 15 Aug, 2012 19:19

Whooooo Hoooooo :bounce:

well done Louie, I am so pleased for you, so much so that I am going to have a beer right now! :cheers

The exhaust manifold will seem a doddle now, roll on the MOT. Well done again.

Brian

by **Robert T** » Wed 15 Aug, 2012 20:05

Congrats Louie. Glad the forum helped you with this. Certainly not a project for the faint hearted, but a nice sense of achievement when it all works.

Cheers R.

by **Leadpipelouie** » Wed 15 Aug, 2012 22:09

Thanks again for the help/comments -I don't know who is more delighted me or the wife !
I enjoyed your beer -by proxy -I will have a bottle of red at the weekend.
-currently down with a sickness bug -wife's revenge for taking so long -she had it over the weekend so being a giving sort of person, she passed it on.

Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Tue 21 Aug, 2012 21:14

During the re-build, i must have disturbed the location of the front panel as I locked the bonnet down and had a game getting it open again. The outer cable also has seen better days.
i have ordered 2 new cables and assume it is just a matter of tying a piece of string to the pin at handle end (i have the speaker panel off) and pulling it through with the cable leaving enough to pull new cable back through ??
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sun 26 Aug, 2012 19:39

Ok, fiddly but straightforward job.
the grommet (and nut) will get stuck in the footwell so you need to cut the cable between it and the lever-then feed the new cable through the bulkhead.
I removed the bonnet locks and a simple matter of locating the inner cable end piece in it's slot -same with the other side which operates in tandem with a smaller cable linking both locks.
Louie

by **Berso** » Sun 26 Aug, 2012 22:03

This thread is a fascinating read.

Well done Louie.

A mighty effort.

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sun 02 Sep, 2012 22:59

Berso,
many thanks for the support -the whole operation has been character-building (as if I need it )
Car is down at the exhaust centre who will hopefully pull the downpipes and exhaust together and
give me back a quiet car !
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Wed 05 Sep, 2012 20:09

Z is back with us Wooo... hooo...!
Guy at exhaust centre asked what I was worried about as the threads were fine and he even managed to tighten up a very inaccessible bolt on the engine/box and all for £20 -but he did have the advantage of a ramp where I was lying on the ground with little room to spare !
Wife (and me) is delighted and MOT booked for Friday !
Good weather heading our way so top down this wekend and of course, i will have to do alot of driving to iron out any glitches before she has it !
Louie (signing-off ?)

by **Leadpipelouie** » Fri 07 Sep, 2012 19:48

We have an MOT !
Bad news, the new bonnet release cables I fitted have now failed and I can't get access to the engine bay !!
Another job tomorrow before we can fully enjoy her Z !
all the neighbours seem pleased to finally see it move under it's own power.
Louie

by **Brian H** » Fri 07 Sep, 2012 20:08

Delighted for you Louie, hope you can now enjoy the car :wink:

Leadpipelouie wrote:Bad news, the new bonnet release cables I fitted have now failed and I can't get access to the engine bay !!

Maybe the bonnet release mechanism itself is a little stiff/corroded?

by **Zed Carer** » Fri 07 Sep, 2012 21:48

Been reading this as you've been doing the work and very impressed in how you've identified and then sorted each problem as they have arisen :bow

.

As for the bonnet not releasing there have been previous posts that having someone press down on the front whilst the release lever is moved can sometimes "spring" a stuck catch - good luck.

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sat 08 Sep, 2012 08:35

Guys,
many thanks.
when i replaced the 2 cables, as always, I thoroughly examined how they went together and functioned so was careful
to grease and re-assemble properly so mystified why the cable has gone slack (not a stiff connection) .
I am currently under her (not right now with my lap-top) and consider the only way forward is to pull out one of the grilles as I can't get access from below.
I learned many years ago not to put everything together until I was certain I was finished so the under tray is not yet
fitted .
Louie

by **geminimustang** » Sat 08 Sep, 2012 09:51

fascinating reading this saga,hats off to you Louie,exceptional man to take on and complete this task.only wish i'd had the knowledge to contribute and help.

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sat 08 Sep, 2012 11:15

Kidney grille on the nearside out -quite easy and used an old wiper arm from my XK8 but don't goout and buy one as the hook on the end can be found on most types - LOL !!

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sat 08 Sep, 2012 11:22

Pressing "send" before i finished may give an insight to my mental state ??

As I said managed to free of the nearside cable by simply pulling it towards me with the hook end and popped the lock.
However, the offside is still a problem.
On ramps, i can see the little "barrel-shaped" locator peering down at me and waving !!
I located a small chisel into the end of a piece of copper pipe left over from my bathroom exploits and, reaching up the side of the rad, tried to move the primary mechanism (n/side is just a tandem arrangement ) but no joy .
OK, another cup of tea while the sun is shining and the open road beckoning.

I suspect I can remove the electric fan if I can get into the locating screws -my young lad is still courting so can get his hands in anywhere so may recruit him ??
Louie

by **Fender2004** » Sat 08 Sep, 2012 12:34

[quote="Leadpipelouie"]Guys,
many thanks.
when i replaced the 2 cables, as always, I thoroughly examined how they went together and functioned so was careful
to grease and re-assemble properly so mystified why the cable has gone slack (not a stiff connection) .
I am currently under her (not right now with my lap-top) and consider the only way forward is to pull out one of the grilles as I can't get access from below.
I learned many years ago not to put everything together until I was certain I was finished so the under tray is not yet
fitted .
Louie[/quoteu
Thanks for the tip on the bonnet cable after I replaced my bonnet catch I wondered how you would get the bonnet open if the cable snapped. Now I know just pull the front grill out

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sat 08 Sep, 2012 17:24

Hi again,
I used an old paint roller (without the sponge) and battered hell out of the plastic rollers to remove them.
I then bent the rod into a "U" shape and fed it in one end and out the other .
I clamped a mole grip onto the bare end and pulled on both that and the handle and out she popped ??
The grille popped back in with no trouble .
Tomorrow, I plan to attempt removal of the fan -no sunbathing for me !
Louie

by **BonBon** » Sat 08 Sep, 2012 22:11

I'm a bit lost now - but if you're still trying to open the bonnet.......by lying on your back looking upward (best at night with a flashlight ) you will have access to open both latches by pulling the cables or the mechanism (as I recall when I had the problem). Somebody already mentioned that ideally you should have a second person trying to jimmy it open. Once it's open - if you still have problems you may need to adjust the height of the two rubber stoppers that support the bonnet.
( I am talking about a 1.9L but assume that is the same as yours in that location)

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sun 09 Sep, 2012 17:28

Somhow, i have managed to release the offside with the tool on the end of a piece of copper pipe.
I then proceeded to withdraw both locks and re-did the cables.
I left the o/side headlight out in case i had to manoeuvre the lock again but it functioned ok for a couple of times then locked again !
I followed the previous procedure removing the kidney grille but only succeeded in pulling the cable out of the n/side lock ??????
I now have the bonnet locked down on one side (n/side) ,but no headlamp fitted so can't even drive it now !!

If anyone has a spare lock to loan/sell, (I placed an ad in stock exchange section on here) I will try to make up a tool to access the mechanism under the slam panel -even though I can't see it but can just about feel it -not much room so perhaps a length of welding rod with a hook at the end ??

I tried lying under the car and can see the lock but difficult even with a length of copper tube as there is not much room to gain any leverage !!
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sun 09 Sep, 2012 19:07

Quick note -my tool (copper tube with a thin chisel on the end) works repeatedly for the offside so can open at will.
Unfortunately can only feel the nearside so down to maintenance tomorrow for a length of welding wire -or similar !
No supper for me tonight - she is not happy and, somehow, it's my fault !
Join me for another thrilling adventure tomorrow night -same time and, regrettably, same place !
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Mon 10 Sep, 2012 19:23

I have a pair of locks coming shortly.
they have the umbilical cable still attached but i may have to remove that from the nearside connection in order to work out a tool shape/size to follow the normal route of the original (missing) cable.
Failing this, I will be removing the other kidney grille then drilling through the little torx head screws and try to remove the fan - that will give me some access -hopefully enough !!
Last throw of the dice is an angle grinder and a friendly bodyshop to make good the damage -yes I am near to a radical solution to what appears to be a well-known BMW Z3/4 problem !
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Tue 11 Sep, 2012 22:09

Having given this arrangement/problem a great deal of thought, I decided to attempt removal of the front bumper by undoing the 8 nuts retaining same. Don't forget to pop off the repeater wiring.
You need to access them through the removed kidney grilles or, as I did, the headlight aperture on one side and the previously removed grille on the nearside.
Lying underneath does give a bit more visibility - albeit at an angle -and using my trusty copper tubed chisel (long screwdriver would do) I managed to reach the underside of the exposed plastic mechanism and while holding the bonnet down (wife sat on it so plenty of pressure there !) the lock freed and I now have an open bonnet and a relieved neighbourhood who were reluctant to pass my driveway in case they caught the odd flying tool/expletive or scary stare !
The pair of locks I won from Ebay complete with cable arrived today also and the dilemma now is do I persevere with the existing (new) cables re-examined or bonded in or use the newly arrived, intact pair ????

I am tempted to fit the replacement pair but bonded in with 2 pack epoxy as I could not go through this failure again !

It looks as though the outer cable is not being gripped at the entry to the mechanism and merely expands and allows the cable to slip into the lock instead of allowing the inner cable to work against it.
Te new-ish pair are much firmer.
I will sleep on it but at least the car will be available for trips out this weekend and, who knows, she may let me join her ?
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sun 16 Sep, 2012 20:24

After changing the bonnet locking assembly, I have had no trouble re-opening it -albeit with the wife pushing down on the front so to minimise the effort required until I am confident that problem is behind us -or is that in front ??
I have used the car all weekend now -not lots of miles, mainly shopping etc.
I had a water leak from the radiator return pipe which had cracked unknown to me and I lost a surprising amount of water before I realised it.
I got that familiar water "smell" -honed over many automotive years and cut my journey short.
It took a good filling and the electric fan did not cut in -although the heater was still blowing warm -a sure sign there is enough in the system.
Since the engine change adventures, the only minus was the temp gauge showing red immediately the ignition was switched on and I have yet to deal with that.
I think the connection to the block is different on the saloon than the Z3 so will check with the dealership tomorrow.
I need to bottom this one out as i want the re-assurance that all is well before enjoying some longer journeys.
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Thu 01 Nov, 2012 11:55

OK, been about 6 weeks now and wife has thotoughly enjoyed her Z !
Trouble is temp gauge is still showing red before start-up. We have lost about 1/2 pint of water but have drained and re-filled with anti-freeze so will leave it a little longer to properly establish whether I have a problem -I can smell coolant after a short trip.
I have a loose (2 pin) connector near the bulkhead coming out of the back of the plastic block running across the top of the engine from front to rear -parallel to the injectors.
There is a good chance this leads at one extremity to the sender but can't find the other connection .
I have also found a connector on the rear n/s of the block which accepts a barrel type but nothing attached ??
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Mon 26 Nov, 2012 13:38

Well,
after borrowing my wife's Z3 and enjoying it immensely, I decided to buy another.
I now have a 1998 1.9 in montreal blue.
No engine worries this time -just need a driver's door and front offside wing !
would also like to change the wheels from "pepperpot ?" type.
Louie

by **Brian H** » Mon 26 Nov, 2012 18:55

Great news Louie, I glad that the whole experience of the engine swap did not put you off.

by **Leadpipelouie** » Mon 26 Nov, 2012 23:10

Brian,
no, fully healed now -all that pain is now just a distant memory.
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Wed 19 Dec, 2012 23:37

Hi,
for those of you (both ?) who followed my plodding attempt at an engine change in my wife's 2.2 , you may remember the only thing which beat me (until now) was the water temp gauge showing red immediately the ign was turned on.
Well, you may remember i checked with BMW in Solihull and asked them for a 2 pin sensor as my connector was a 2 pin jobby only to be told it would be a 4 pin item.
Despite my protestations, they insisted it was correct and i trudged away totally confused.
Anyway, I checked today with my local independent who "found" a 2 pin item from another (BMW) vehicle and duly connected it up to the connector and it clicked into place and the needle slowly dropped back to cold (sensor not attached to the engine at this point ) .
He then heated the unit with a little blowgun and the needle rose gradually to normal !!!!

the moral ? Trust your own judgement - unless it is dangerous to do so !!
Louie

by **BonBon** » Thu 20 Dec, 2012 10:16

.....and the coolant loss - was it just air in the system?

by **Leadpipelouie** » Thu 20 Dec, 2012 15:44

Yes, correct -once it settled down it was fine.
I limited wife to just shopping trips etc but just did a 100 mile run and so far seems to be fine.
Obviously with the sender registering hot, the ECU leaned-out the mixture (thought i had an air leak as
starting took a couple of attempts) so once fitted it should be even smoother -getting access is tricky without a ramp and it is still pi**ing down here so may get a local guy to do it indoors.
Regards and Merry Christmas to all.
Louie

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