Slight rear knocking
Slight rear knocking
Hi all,
Hope some of you can help Not sure if its me or if its been there all along but I'm noticing a slight knock from the rear when changing up through the box, more noticeable when cold but pretty much dissapears once warmed up, it doesn't do it when changing down, its like a slight knock or clunk. I'm guessing its the diff and the noise goes once the oil warms up. I sometimes get a little clunk when stationary and selecting first gear also. Is this something I need to worry about, I have heard it can be quite common on BMW's? It might becoming apparent with the colder weather now.
Cheers,
Tim.
Hope some of you can help Not sure if its me or if its been there all along but I'm noticing a slight knock from the rear when changing up through the box, more noticeable when cold but pretty much dissapears once warmed up, it doesn't do it when changing down, its like a slight knock or clunk. I'm guessing its the diff and the noise goes once the oil warms up. I sometimes get a little clunk when stationary and selecting first gear also. Is this something I need to worry about, I have heard it can be quite common on BMW's? It might becoming apparent with the colder weather now.
Cheers,
Tim.
I think you'll find this is the problem chased by phb10186 here
http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18458
It's just a z3 drive trait mine does the same always into first and sometimes second but usually not above this and not on the way down the gears.
As you say also does it at stand still engaging 1st.If you dip the clutch in first at stand still can you replicate it taking up drive??
http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18458
It's just a z3 drive trait mine does the same always into first and sometimes second but usually not above this and not on the way down the gears.
As you say also does it at stand still engaging 1st.If you dip the clutch in first at stand still can you replicate it taking up drive??
Cheers Robert, I'm going to check the boot area this weekend and do a little waxoiling although I'm not unduly worried about the welds as I would be surprised it being a problem on the 1.9? didn't this afflict the M's more?Robert T wrote:I don't wish to worry you unnecessarily, but I would also check the boot floor as well, to see if you have any popped welds.
It is however a fairly common fault on BMWs - one of my dad's 3ers did something similar.
Cheers R.
Tim.
I remember reading Bens woes which kinda got me thinking lol, I'm just wondering if my hearing is being over sensitive lol as I haven't used the Zed for the past 2 weeks as being using the Corsa which is quieter generally.F99ANT wrote:I think you'll find this is the problem chased by phb10186 here
http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18458
It's just a z3 drive trait mine does the same always into first and sometimes second but usually not above this and not on the way down the gears.
As you say also does it at stand still engaging 1st.If you dip the clutch in first at stand still can you replicate it taking up drive??
Mines the same as yours, ie it makes the slight noise in 1st and 2nd when pulling away but never when changing down but goes when warm, also as you say when stationary and selecting first there will be a slight clunk but its not loud just noticeable.
My Zed has only done 22k so I would be surprised if its any serious wear in the drive train?
Tim.
Er, just to qualify my previous post - I meant the knocking noise was quite common - not the boot welds problem.
It is more common on the larger engined cars, but I believe it can occur on any of them, whatever the engine size - it is still a fairly uncommon problem though - but there is no harm in checking.
Cheers R
It is more common on the larger engined cars, but I believe it can occur on any of them, whatever the engine size - it is still a fairly uncommon problem though - but there is no harm in checking.
Cheers R
Last edited by Robert T on Thu 13 Nov, 2008 21:17, edited 1 time in total.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
lol sorry Robert, its been a long day and I got ran over by an OAP in a buggy,Robert T wrote:Er, just to qualify my previous post - I meant the knocking noise was quite common - not the boot welds problem.
It is more common on the larger engined cars, but I believe it can occur on any of them, whatever the engine size - it is still a fairly uncommon problem though - but there is no harm in checking.
Cheers R
Reasuring that its a realtively common prob lol.
Tim.
My 2002 3.0 does exactly the same thing and I was about to post a question about it on here until I saw this topic.
My E30 325 did it as well, but I didn't think too much about it on £700 cars. But now I've spent 10 times that, it got me thinking.
Is it just me, or are BMW gearboxes not the most quick-witted things out there. It doesn't seem to like to be rushed and all of my E30's (320s and 325s) were similar, from memory.
My E30 325 did it as well, but I didn't think too much about it on £700 cars. But now I've spent 10 times that, it got me thinking.
Is it just me, or are BMW gearboxes not the most quick-witted things out there. It doesn't seem to like to be rushed and all of my E30's (320s and 325s) were similar, from memory.
I'm a little perplexed by mine as its only a very slight noise like a little clunk when you change from 1st to 2nd and into 3rd but it goes pretty much once warm. I have been altering my driving style a little and lifting off less on the accelerator when changing gear eliminates it lol so maybe my driving style lol, I tend to dip the clutch and change gear simultaenously and lift off the accelerator but now dip the clutch first and keep the revs slightly up and then change gear, seems to help anyway.Bracey wrote:My 2002 3.0 does exactly the same thing and I was about to post a question about it on here until I saw this topic.
My E30 325 did it as well, but I didn't think too much about it on £700 cars. But now I've spent 10 times that, it got me thinking.
Is it just me, or are BMW gearboxes not the most quick-witted things out there. It doesn't seem to like to be rushed and all of my E30's (320s and 325s) were similar, from memory.
Tim.
I might be able to offer some input here.....
The ZF manual gearboxes on the 6 potters are pretty clunky and slow at changing.... I have heard that the Getrag boxex on the 4's are a lot better.
That said, the problem almost certainly lies with the propshaft. The only way you can check is by getting the car on a ramp and checking how much free-play you have.
Or taking th prop-shaft out and checking all the UJ's.
This problem has p***** me right off, so much so that I will be selling it in the spring.
There are other things you can check: gearbox and diff oil, rear drive shafts etc.
Whatever the problem, I would highly recommend that you concentrate on everything from the gearbox back drive wise (not including the gearbox).
It will be worse in colder weather, as metal contracts thus making gaps larger (even if this is in the micro-scale) making noises and jerks more aparent.
I hopr this helps you out..... I'ts a pretty fruitless, costly business if you want my opinion.
The only other thing you could go is book it in at BMW and let them cgarge you to look at it.... if the quote a reasonable price, it might be worth a punt, as if they don't fix it, they should sort it for free - you would have to get the facts from them - there are no cheap drive-line parts on a BMW though so it would probably be a £600+ job for not a lot.
I got the Z3 because I have a 635, and running it was getting costly, but to be honest the comparison in quality of a Z3 compared to a good German built BMW from the 80's like the E24 is not a fair one.
I used to like BMW's more than Merc's, but to be honest, the Z can't even compare to the C class of the same era, and that probably also means the SLK.
And neither of the above can compare to a Honda or Lexus, especially the way that the world is going.
.... No: I havn't taken my Prozac today!
The ZF manual gearboxes on the 6 potters are pretty clunky and slow at changing.... I have heard that the Getrag boxex on the 4's are a lot better.
That said, the problem almost certainly lies with the propshaft. The only way you can check is by getting the car on a ramp and checking how much free-play you have.
Or taking th prop-shaft out and checking all the UJ's.
This problem has p***** me right off, so much so that I will be selling it in the spring.
There are other things you can check: gearbox and diff oil, rear drive shafts etc.
Whatever the problem, I would highly recommend that you concentrate on everything from the gearbox back drive wise (not including the gearbox).
It will be worse in colder weather, as metal contracts thus making gaps larger (even if this is in the micro-scale) making noises and jerks more aparent.
I hopr this helps you out..... I'ts a pretty fruitless, costly business if you want my opinion.
The only other thing you could go is book it in at BMW and let them cgarge you to look at it.... if the quote a reasonable price, it might be worth a punt, as if they don't fix it, they should sort it for free - you would have to get the facts from them - there are no cheap drive-line parts on a BMW though so it would probably be a £600+ job for not a lot.
I got the Z3 because I have a 635, and running it was getting costly, but to be honest the comparison in quality of a Z3 compared to a good German built BMW from the 80's like the E24 is not a fair one.
I used to like BMW's more than Merc's, but to be honest, the Z can't even compare to the C class of the same era, and that probably also means the SLK.
And neither of the above can compare to a Honda or Lexus, especially the way that the world is going.
.... No: I havn't taken my Prozac today!
1998 2.8 M52TU, pre-facelift, hard top, montreal blue, tan interior, 91K
Thanks for your comments, I have been out and about a fair bit today and its been pretty quiet, occassionally get a very faint knock on the odd change up so I'm not unduly concerned. Will give the BMW dealer a call tomorrow as I want them to look at the slight chirping when cold which I reckon if the tensioner or idler pulley or a misaligned belt so will mention the slight noise from the rear as well. I bought the Zed as an approved used car so came with a 12 months BMW warranty so hoping it will cover any probs .phb10186 wrote:I might be able to offer some input here.....
The ZF manual gearboxes on the 6 potters are pretty clunky and slow at changing.... I have heard that the Getrag boxex on the 4's are a lot better.
That said, the problem almost certainly lies with the propshaft. The only way you can check is by getting the car on a ramp and checking how much free-play you have.
Or taking th prop-shaft out and checking all the UJ's.
This problem has p***** me right off, so much so that I will be selling it in the spring.
There are other things you can check: gearbox and diff oil, rear drive shafts etc.
Whatever the problem, I would highly recommend that you concentrate on everything from the gearbox back drive wise (not including the gearbox).
It will be worse in colder weather, as metal contracts thus making gaps larger (even if this is in the micro-scale) making noises and jerks more aparent.
I hopr this helps you out..... I'ts a pretty fruitless, costly business if you want my opinion.
The only other thing you could go is book it in at BMW and let them cgarge you to look at it.... if the quote a reasonable price, it might be worth a punt, as if they don't fix it, they should sort it for free - you would have to get the facts from them - there are no cheap drive-line parts on a BMW though so it would probably be a £600+ job for not a lot.
I got the Z3 because I have a 635, and running it was getting costly, but to be honest the comparison in quality of a Z3 compared to a good German built BMW from the 80's like the E24 is not a fair one.
I would be surprised if anything is unduly worn as its only done 22k
Tim.