MAF sensor
- dazthephot
- Joined: Wed 09 Apr, 2008 18:58
- Posts: 266
- Contact:
MAF sensor
Hi guys, well i've cleaned the MAF sensor and it worked for a short while but now i reckon it's kerknackered.
Has anyone tried one of the impoted sensor replacements over the OE ones?
symptoms were a host of faults on my peake tool, all lambda related. poor idling, loss of power.
when the maf was unplugged the idling was ok and most of the power was restored.
Has anyone tried one of the impoted sensor replacements over the OE ones?
symptoms were a host of faults on my peake tool, all lambda related. poor idling, loss of power.
when the maf was unplugged the idling was ok and most of the power was restored.
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- Joined: Tue 21 Jul, 2009 19:14
- Posts: 928
- Location: Eastbourne
From previous experience I would never go with non genuine mafs.I had an Alfa romeo 2.5 V6 a few years ago and they are prone to maf trouble.I Bought a cheaper non oe replacement and had to send it back for a refund as all it did was to move the flat spot to another point in the rev range.
Unless you can find a supplier recommended by someone here stick with original,it's worth the extra money.
Unless you can find a supplier recommended by someone here stick with original,it's worth the extra money.
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- Joined: Fri 19 Jun, 2009 10:27
- Posts: 2093
- Location: Daglan, France
Vw
VW sell a remanufactured airflow sensor, the difference being about £250 for a new one, or £70 for a RMF item, which uses an old body.
Pity BMW don't do the same.
Pity BMW don't do the same.
- dazthephot
- Joined: Wed 09 Apr, 2008 18:58
- Posts: 266
- Contact:
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- Joined: Tue 21 Jul, 2009 19:14
- Posts: 928
- Location: Eastbourne
dazthephot wrote:would you buy a bosch one or just get one from the stealer?
Need to know where your going with this?
Yes Bosch is a good brand but is it new or recon? who is selling it?
The guy I bought my non OE maf was reconing Bosch maf's and they were crap. Just wish I could remember the companies name.
- dazthephot
- Joined: Wed 09 Apr, 2008 18:58
- Posts: 266
- Contact:
Ah i see, i only looked at Bosch because they are the only decent manufacturer i could come across for main OE quality components.
This is the website i looked at: http://www.maf-shop.com/index.php?curre ... ml&cPath=8
thanks guys
This is the website i looked at: http://www.maf-shop.com/index.php?curre ... ml&cPath=8
thanks guys
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- Joined: Tue 21 Jul, 2009 19:14
- Posts: 928
- Location: Eastbourne
Try German Sweedish French. You may need to call them with the part number.
Use the Search button before posting newbie questions about hard tops and fitting kits, footwell speaker amps, water in the boot, hood maintainance and those horrific angel eyes. We get like 10 threads a week on the same subject, it's obvious that you haven't searched.
Cooper are listing one for an M43-engined 1.9 (facelifted, as per your profile) for £250.71. I'm not sure they are the cheapest $tealer, but it gives a reasonable guide price.BATTERZEE wrote:Would like to know the dealer price to make a comparison.
To find the BMW part number for the MAFs used in other engines, look on RealOEM. The M43 is here. Cross-reference shows it only fits the M43 1.9 out of the Z3 range.
Cheers R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
- dazthephot
- Joined: Wed 09 Apr, 2008 18:58
- Posts: 266
- Contact:
Ouch indeed, just called Andrew Page parts dealer in Hull, they have Bosch replacements at £163+vat and Magna at £95+vat.
Now i have seen both of these manufacturers on lots of vehicle electrical parts and both come with 12 months warranty. so i think i'm gunna try the Bosch one.
If anyone has any bad experiences please let me know, otherwise i'll see how it fairs.
Now i have seen both of these manufacturers on lots of vehicle electrical parts and both come with 12 months warranty. so i think i'm gunna try the Bosch one.
If anyone has any bad experiences please let me know, otherwise i'll see how it fairs.
Try putting your part number or your chassis number
into www.bmminiparts.com/Home.aspx
They stock various genuine BMW OEM parts from the dealer network (I suspect overstocked items or such like) including MAF's - their prices are about half of what BMW charge - if they don't have one they can get you a price for one from BMW - and delivery within a day or two
I've used them a few times - and saved myself rather alot of money in the process
into www.bmminiparts.com/Home.aspx
They stock various genuine BMW OEM parts from the dealer network (I suspect overstocked items or such like) including MAF's - their prices are about half of what BMW charge - if they don't have one they can get you a price for one from BMW - and delivery within a day or two
I've used them a few times - and saved myself rather alot of money in the process
- dazthephot
- Joined: Wed 09 Apr, 2008 18:58
- Posts: 266
- Contact:
- dazthephot
- Joined: Wed 09 Apr, 2008 18:58
- Posts: 266
- Contact:
wow what a difference a MAF makes!
Got the Bosch one today from Andrew Page in Hull, £188inc.
Fitted in 5 minutes, all power restored, no flat spots at all. Bearing in mind it's only a 1.9 i revved it hard through the gears and didn't have any trouble at all.
So, i'll let you know how long it lasts - hopefully long enough for me to save for an Estoril blue 2.2
cheers for your help guys and gals
Got the Bosch one today from Andrew Page in Hull, £188inc.
Fitted in 5 minutes, all power restored, no flat spots at all. Bearing in mind it's only a 1.9 i revved it hard through the gears and didn't have any trouble at all.
So, i'll let you know how long it lasts - hopefully long enough for me to save for an Estoril blue 2.2
cheers for your help guys and gals
The fault on my 2.8 Auto is pointing to some sort of sensor problem. Possibly the MAF.
When the car is cold and through the warming up period the power output seems fine. Once warmed up the acceleration and way it performs acceleration wise is stunning. However after about half an hour and driving in traffic the engine then seems to lack power. Will run lumpy and stall on tickover. Acceleration is drastically reduced and it meeds a full throttle to get it moving.
I tried removing the plug on the sensor where the air intaqke is. I take it this is the MAF sensor. The engine immediately stopped. With the plug out I cranked the engine and it fired immediately. Blipping the throttle revved the engine freely and the viscous fan blew a treat.
Off I drove and the acceleration was brilliant but the gear changes were very abrupt and snatchy. I also noticed that the engine check light was on. Obviously I can hear some knowledgable personsaying. Anyway, I reconnected the plug and all was back to normal regards light and gearchanging.
So, fault diagnosis will show failure of MAF temporarily I suppose.
My question is, does anyone have experience of this type of behavior (the car's not mine) and did they find a cure?
Peter.
When the car is cold and through the warming up period the power output seems fine. Once warmed up the acceleration and way it performs acceleration wise is stunning. However after about half an hour and driving in traffic the engine then seems to lack power. Will run lumpy and stall on tickover. Acceleration is drastically reduced and it meeds a full throttle to get it moving.
I tried removing the plug on the sensor where the air intaqke is. I take it this is the MAF sensor. The engine immediately stopped. With the plug out I cranked the engine and it fired immediately. Blipping the throttle revved the engine freely and the viscous fan blew a treat.
Off I drove and the acceleration was brilliant but the gear changes were very abrupt and snatchy. I also noticed that the engine check light was on. Obviously I can hear some knowledgable personsaying. Anyway, I reconnected the plug and all was back to normal regards light and gearchanging.
So, fault diagnosis will show failure of MAF temporarily I suppose.
My question is, does anyone have experience of this type of behavior (the car's not mine) and did they find a cure?
Peter.
MAF sensor?
im not sure guys but i think mine might have a MAf sensor problem too. When i first brought the car i did find that it doesnt accelerate and breath very easy at all and at idle or when on a slight hill and holding the clutch at the biting point, the engine seems to very occassionally rev on its on and then stall.. How do i check if it is a sensor problem or could this be down to something else?
can someone please shed some light on this?
cheers guys.
can someone please shed some light on this?
cheers guys.
- Justin Time
- Joined: Thu 22 Jun, 2006 20:34
- Posts: 2183
- Location: Kent
Naeemm, try removing the MAF, giving it a squirt or two of carb cleaner, making sure not to physically touch the sensor contact, and reassemble aftetr it has dried.
There are a few other avenues to check if that doesn't solve the problem:
- Have the engine hooked up to a code reader. Some people have mentioned on the forum that independent garages sometimes miss codes with their readers, so take it to BMW where you know you'll recieve a proper diagnosis session, albeit at a £30 cost. Without this, it makes diagnosis of the source of most problems engine-related harder. Check to see if any fault codes come up that refer to either of the cam position sensors, lambda sensors or MAF.
- Take a look at the rubber air intake pipes. They are prone to splitting due to old age and are well known to cause irregular idling/runnning of the engine. I had a large split on the elbow joint leading to the ICV and throttle body, several cm wide, which was the source of my idling problems a while back.
- Cleaning of the ICV (inlet control valve) could also help. Take a look through the Z3 knowledgebase section of the forum for this guide. This method will require the removal of the air intake pipes, so you can kill two birds with one stone.
That's all that came to mind regarding a problem with idling, but with regards to breathing at any speed, altering the air intake via the "Fogged" box or similar method will have a very pronounced effect (even without installing an aftermarket air filter!).
Best of luck.
There are a few other avenues to check if that doesn't solve the problem:
- Have the engine hooked up to a code reader. Some people have mentioned on the forum that independent garages sometimes miss codes with their readers, so take it to BMW where you know you'll recieve a proper diagnosis session, albeit at a £30 cost. Without this, it makes diagnosis of the source of most problems engine-related harder. Check to see if any fault codes come up that refer to either of the cam position sensors, lambda sensors or MAF.
- Take a look at the rubber air intake pipes. They are prone to splitting due to old age and are well known to cause irregular idling/runnning of the engine. I had a large split on the elbow joint leading to the ICV and throttle body, several cm wide, which was the source of my idling problems a while back.
- Cleaning of the ICV (inlet control valve) could also help. Take a look through the Z3 knowledgebase section of the forum for this guide. This method will require the removal of the air intake pipes, so you can kill two birds with one stone.
That's all that came to mind regarding a problem with idling, but with regards to breathing at any speed, altering the air intake via the "Fogged" box or similar method will have a very pronounced effect (even without installing an aftermarket air filter!).
Best of luck.
BMW Z3 2.0L Velvet Blue Individual Edition