Winters coming - preparing the zed

drdrake · Post by **drdrake** » Thu 01 Oct, 2009 17:27

Ok so the hardtop is now on for the coming months and I wondered what other things people do to prepare the zed for the winter season?

For example when I had an Alfa GTV I had to prepare the rubber windows seals against frost glueing the door window glass to them. If you didnt the doors wont open on the frozen mornings and your locked out until it thawed out.

Anyone got any other routines they practice?

Titan · Post by **Titan** » Thu 01 Oct, 2009 17:46

drdrake wrote:Ok so the hardtop is now on for the coming months

So soon?

Anyone got any other routines they practice?

Don't even think about the hard top until the clocks go back and even then it's with one eye on Metcheck for those gloriously bright autumn days...

As for the door seals a quick dose of gummipflege should stop the freeze/sticking problem

TitanTim · Post by **TitanTim** » Thu 01 Oct, 2009 19:03

Few things I do with mine around now;

* Usually go around the door seals with a rubber lube each time the Zed is washed so doesn't count.

* Good wax and paint sealant and use Wheel Wax on ummmmm the wheels.

* A light spray on the underside with Dinitrol to top up last years.

* I tend to grease under the sills and along floorpan seam, paying particular attention behind the front wheels. The underbody sealant tends to peel here once chipped.

* Lightly grease the brake calipers, very thin film to keep the corrosion off.

* Once a month spray all around the engine bay paying particular attention to seams and where ancillaries are bolted to the bodywork to keep any damp away. Also spray WD40 around the boot aperture at the base of the rear screen so it runs down and out of the car where water would naturally run.

Had thought of getting a hard top for this winter but can't bring myself to fit one lol. A Zed shouldn't have one

Tim.

'Z'ebedee · Post by **'Z'ebedee** » Thu 01 Oct, 2009 20:26

drdrake wrote:
Anyone got any other routines they practice?

How often do you need to do something, for it to be a routine?.

Post by **Robert T** » Thu 01 Oct, 2009 21:19

Mix screenwash slightly more concentrated. Wash road salt of asap. Drive it as normal except in snow and ice.

When regular frosts arrive, hardtop goes on and comes off when the regular frosts leave - usually about end of October/beginning of November to mid-March. I can still go topless in my other car if we get a bright winters day.

Cheers R.

muppet · Post by **muppet** » Fri 02 Oct, 2009 16:49

Wear a jumper when the roof is down

Lazeodoom · Post by **Lazeodoom** » Fri 02 Oct, 2009 18:06

Right then, this year I'm not suffering the pain of last time round. I would wake up at 5am for early shifts and later in my pattern have to leave work at 7am to the same problem: A completely frozen windscreen on both the outside and inside. Once the ice goes I'm just left with a cold engine and a misty windscreen. How should I avoid this fate?

For example, I've heard rumours of something called a 'silica bag' (insert Ann Robinson joke here) that gobbles up the mist, where can I find these things?

Also, should I invest in a car cover? Can I get one thats Zed specific? How cumbersome are they?

Please help, I've had a Zed for three years now and I want to have it for several more but another winter like the last one may result in me swearing myself into an early grave.

Jonttt · Post by **Jonttt** » Fri 02 Oct, 2009 19:28

I've never really had a problem with ice inside my car since an old austin allegro

I just invest in a good robust ice scraper and scrape away.I don't use oiling water from the kettle (I've always assumed this can't be good for the rubber seals) and I only use deicer in the very worst ice to help with the scraping.

I see people put cardboard on their windscreens (trapped by the wiper)presumably to stop ice forming but I don't know if this works.

You can get tailored fit Z covers from dealer (approx £125).They are a fantastic fit and take about 2 minutes to fit so it depends what you call cumbersome. I think they are pretty easy, big Z3 logo to identify the front and I put each wing mirror in its pocket to get things lined up and then its easy to pull forward / back and elasticated under bumpers. nb if you have a standard aerial you need to remove this (I have a very short stubby aerial that does not have to be removed).

Most improtant thing to remember is to turn heated seats on whilst scraping

Devon Z · Post by **Devon Z** » Fri 02 Oct, 2009 21:14

Put her in the garage, plug in the trickle charger, dust cover and dovet

gookah · Post by **gookah** » Sat 03 Oct, 2009 10:03

get one of these. alarm with remote engine starter
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-2-way-PAGER-C ... 286.c0.m14

I have fitted a similar one to mine. It can start you car in the morning on a timer, at 5:50am for example, or manually by holding the button. If you park up with the heater controls on hot and the fan on full it will warm you car up. Mine runs for 10 mins, and if I have the hardtop on it even operates the rear screen heater.
Does this whilst still armed and if anyone were to break in (or climb in, if the roof were down-I tried it) the alarm goes off and the engine stops as soon as you put a foot on the brake pedal.
you can do this from your office even if its 500 yards away. nice on a frosty evening going home. well worth it but you need to know electrics as the instructions are a bit vague!

Justin Time · Post by **Justin Time** » Sat 03 Oct, 2009 11:17

Regarding the ice inside the cabin, you may want to check that there is no water hiding beneath the carpets. The sound dampening present beneath the carpets is just sponge, and despite feeling dry on the top surface, it can be soaking wet underneath. This in turn elevates the humidity in the cabin.

Half an hour well worth spent if this is the case.

Lazeodoom · Post by **Lazeodoom** » Sat 03 Oct, 2009 18:45

The remote start up thingy sounds like a good idea, and the cover might also be of siome use. Depends whats going to be the cheapest. Thanks for the help!

Wessex · Post by **Wessex** » Sun 04 Oct, 2009 06:29

I've always subscribed to the opinion that to let an engine idle from stone cold to warm it up is a receipe for an early grave for the engine.

My brother in law has this facility in America but the car is only kept for 2 years then sold on.

Let the engine idle whilst seat belt is fitted etc just to let the oil start to circulate but never to let the engine idle excessively.

Things may have changed since I started maintaining cars 40 years ago but old habits die hard.

Frank.A · Post by **Frank.A** » Sun 04 Oct, 2009 08:47

I totally agree with you Wessex.

Start up,seatbelt and drive off.

Many manufacturers actually recommend this in owners handbooks.

Winter driving may of course require a longer warmup with demisters on.

gookah · Post by **gookah** » Sun 04 Oct, 2009 11:45

Wessex wrote: Things may have changed since I started maintaining cars 40 years ago .

very probably... that's why I don't use the starting handle.

Wessex · Post by **Wessex** » Sun 04 Oct, 2009 20:27

gookah wrote:
Wessex wrote: Things may have changed since I started maintaining cars 40 years ago .
very probably... that's why I don't use the starting handle.

Hey Gookah, if you are going to quote me use the whole sentence, please don't paraphrase. It can alter the whole meaning. he he.

The point I was making was that although running in has lessend to a greater degree to just gentle throttle operation for the first 1,000 miles or so, letting an engine idle to warm it up has always been a no no in my book.

Please don't try to trivialise my post.

gookah · Post by **gookah** » Sun 04 Oct, 2009 23:55

I've always done it and had no problems. that will do as proof enough to me.
Maybe you have some evidence of all these failing engines over two years old?
I see lots of neighbours and friends doing the same and they are not all broken down at the end of the street. If you have some hard evidence thats fine, otherwise its just scaremongering!

Not trivialising, just things have got better and tolerances are different nowadays to Cortinas and Avengers that didn't last. I had them both!
So I say to the guy considering it, I've had no problems. Can you tell him that you have? or just that you think its a bad idea?
Worked for me...... for two years. arghhhhhhhhhh!

Wessex · Post by **Wessex** » Mon 05 Oct, 2009 04:58

There is evidence that warming an engine on tickover creates more wear and is enviromentally unfriendly rather than driving away and letting the engine get to operating temperature earlier.

I didn't say the engines fail after two years. The company car me brother in law has is sold on after two years. I implied that the life of an engine is reduced through warming it the way you suggest.

Z3 engines are a lot older generally, 10 years typically. They should be treated a bit more respectfully as they will fail if abused. BMW or not, they are still subjected to the same wear pattern as other manufacturers engines.

You would have been better installing a block heater that plugs in overnight. Fuel consumtion is dramatically reduced as the engine reaches operating temperature a lot quicker and thus the mixture is running less rich than starting on a stone cold engine.

Still, your money; your engine. What a waste. What a way to treat an old lady.

gookah · Post by **gookah** » Mon 05 Oct, 2009 17:26

Jonttt wrote:I don't use oiling water from the kettle

you really ought to clean that kettle

gookah · Post by **gookah** » Mon 05 Oct, 2009 17:47

Wessex wrote:There is evidence that warming an engine on tickover creates more wear

I still don't see any....

Wessex wrote:Still, your money; your engine. What a waste..

yep, my money, my engine, your opinion.
I just comment on what I experience personally.

Zed Carer · Post by **Zed Carer** » Mon 05 Oct, 2009 20:07

Been reading this with some interest and decided to Google "Engine Warm Up" the Autosport site contained this one:

For road cars, manufacturers manuals almost always recommend not to idle rather start and drive away slowly and let the car warm itself. BMW handled this nicely in their M3, they had indication lights on tachometer which cautioned the driver to keep the engine RPMs below a certain threshold before things were warmed up nicely.

This is the LINK Quite a bit of interesting reading in some of the other sites Google threw up including certain states that have either banned idling in the morning, or set specific time limits.

My routine is laptop, etc in the boot first, get in, clutch down, start, seat belt and drive off - keep below 3,000rpm for the first 10 miles, check everything OK and then go.

Post by **Robert T** » Mon 05 Oct, 2009 20:19

And what does one do when one's car is covered in ice?

On the rare occasions that mine is left out overnight, as I prefer not to cover my paintwork in de-icer if I can help it, I start her up and put the rear demister on and then give the engine maybe 1500 rpm and let it run for a few mins until there is just enough heat to allow the fan to clear the windscreen. I wouldn't want to do that every morning, but there isn't much choice other than that or lots of de-icer in a hotel car park.

If your car does have to live outside, the BMW all-weather covers are really good. They fit well, are nice and soft and won't blow off. They only problem is that they are bulky - even in it's bag it takes up almost half the boot - if you can dump it in the house, so much the better.

Cheers R.

Jonttt · Post by **Jonttt** » Mon 05 Oct, 2009 20:38

Zed Carer, I don't know about the new M3's (I presume its the same) but on the Z4m there is an electronic rev limiter which stops you from reving too high until the engine as warmed up. The starts at 4,000 (from memory on my brothers) and shows on the rev counter.It slowly rises until you can use full revs when engine warmed up. I guess it was BMW's way of taking the temptation away from ignoring the advice to do this manually (hence I'm convinced all the VANOS failures on the S50 engines).

I also agree with Robert, on the very coldest deep frost days I start the car, turn on the auto defrost (or if car does not have it all blowers on full to windscreen with air recirculation so heats up faster), back window demister on, heated seats on full and then use deicer / scraper for 5 min to clear all windows. By this time front windscreen is clear inside and safe to drive. I also agree I've always been led to believe this is not good for your engine but I think its the safest solution on the small number of really bad ice days we get (having said all that its a company car, I won't drive the Z when its icey)

On less bad days I still do the above but car is only idling for a min or so whilst I give the windows a quick scrape (no deicer).

I've driven a range rover with the auto start feature, very novel but heated seats are much more practical

Wessex · Post by **Wessex** » Mon 05 Oct, 2009 22:24

gookah wrote:
Wessex wrote:There is evidence that warming an engine on tickover creates more wear
I still don't see any....

Wessex wrote:Still, your money; your engine. What a waste..
yep, my money, my engine, your opinion.
I just comment on what I experience personally.

Not just my opinion but the opinion of others. The evidence is there if you take the time to look.

Tepid water poured over the windscreen and side windows will disolve the ice quicker than deicer, scraping or leaving the engine for 10 minutes ticking over.

Remember, water heats quicker than oil so even if the temp guage reads normal, the engine is still relatively cool until the engine works. Normal operating temperature is only reached when the engine is working not idling particularly in cold weather.

gookah · Post by **gookah** » Tue 06 Oct, 2009 23:44

Wessex wrote:
gookah wrote:
Wessex wrote:There is evidence that warming an engine on tickover creates more wear
I still don't see any....

Wessex wrote:Still, your money; your engine. What a waste..
yep, my money, my engine, your opinion.
I just comment on what I experience personally.
Not just my opinion but the opinion of others. The evidence is there if you take the time to look.

Tepid water poured over the windscreen and side windows will disolve the ice quicker than deicer, scraping or leaving the engine for 10 minutes ticking over.

Remember, water heats quicker than oil so even if the temp guage reads normal, the engine is still relatively cool until the engine works. Normal operating temperature is only reached when the engine is working not idling particularly in cold weather.

To be honest I couldn't give a rat's a*$%.
All I know is that you haven't shown me any proof of what your preaching on here, only a lot of opinions and viewpoints.
My comments are based on my experience, and until such time that this changes then I will help people by saying what I have fitted and found to work well, And 'IF' it is seen to cause a problem I will advise that too. As I have in other posts.

There are too many experts on this site that advise people of their thoughts, not experience. I have fell victim to some of their costly but possible remedies,.... that didn't work.
Well at least you have come up with a suggestion now for the member with the frustrating frozen screen, rather than poo poo-ing mine. However he may not particularly want to use the tepid water method.......................
His dashboard may get rather damp trying to de-ice the inside of the screen

Frank.A · Post by **Frank.A** » Wed 07 Oct, 2009 08:57

The following are quotes from:-

(1) GM Corsa SXI Handbook 2001
(2) VAG Passat TDI Handbook 2002

(1) Do not allow engine to 'tick over' when started from cold.Speeds should be moderate until engine has reached working temperature.

(2) Do not warm engine up by running it with vehicle stationary.Drive off straight away.

The Mk2 Golf GTI we had also stated similar instructions in handbook.

Of course these are only Manufacturers opinions.

Canman · Post by **Canman** » Wed 07 Oct, 2009 11:35

i used to have a mazda 323F it was a 1997 1.5 lxi. when starting it from cold the accelerator would not press down untill the engine had run at idle for a few minutes. it was frustrating at times but did it for a reason i thought. driving away within seconds of starting a freezing cold engine can't be good can it !!!

gookah · Post by **gookah** » Wed 07 Oct, 2009 21:23

it takes me 10 minutes of being idle on a cold morning just to warm up enough to move.

Lazeodoom · Post by **Lazeodoom** » Wed 07 Oct, 2009 23:06

Thats all well and good, but I still have the damn problem that if I drove off straight away I would need x ray specs to see past the ice and mist on the inside of my windscreen!

Car cover here I come!

Mike Fishwick · Post by **Mike Fishwick** » Thu 08 Oct, 2009 08:08

Although I now enjoy the dry if cold French winters, I have often been in the UK for the Motorcycle Show, during the usual cold Midlands April. The only time I have had a problem with mist and ice on the inside of the screen was when I had inadvertantly left the air con on recirculation, when the inside became as bad as the outside in seconds - are you doing this?

Lazeodoom · Post by **Lazeodoom** » Thu 08 Oct, 2009 11:26

Nope, unfortunately my Zed is very spartan, it has no air con jiggery pokery. There's also no lining on the soft top. I may see if the local upholsterer will retrofit a lining, but even then, presumably I could just get some silica or something?

Lazeodoom · Post by **Lazeodoom** » Thu 08 Oct, 2009 11:29

In fact, looking on ebay it seems rather cheap to buy dessicant. Anybody know what weight I would need?

Mike Fishwick · Post by **Mike Fishwick** » Thu 08 Oct, 2009 14:39

At least a kilogramme - keep it in a porous (eg cotton) bag, dry it in the overn until blue, and repeat the drying process when it goes pink.

I don't thik you should need to do this anyway - it's only curing the symptoms of a water leak somewhere - maybe a blocked drain hole in the heater.

zroadster.net

Winters coming - preparing the zed

Winters coming - preparing the zed

Re: Winters coming - preparing the zed

Re: Winters coming - preparing the zed

Pepare for winter

Inner ice

Silica Gel