For that real deep clean "underneath the arches"
For that real deep clean "underneath the arches"
I have looked, undone stuff, but I still am no nearer getting the rear wheel arch liners out for that deep clean. I know, I know, but I've not had it long and now its been serviced, improved, etc and I just fancy getting it looking as good as I can. Even under the wheel arches. Anyone done this who knows the secret? I have found 2 nuts and washers, undone them , and - nothing. Thanks in advance.
realoem sorted this out
Hi sorry peeps I searched without luck but then remembered realoem, which has made all very clear. Sorry.
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- Joined: Fri 19 Jun, 2009 10:27
- Posts: 2094
- Location: Daglan, France
Liners
The front ones are easy enough, if you use your eyes and find all the fasteners, but the rears require removal of the bumper first.
I took mine off a few weeks ago (pre99 1.9) - 4 fasteners to remove (but only 2 inside the wheel arch)
1. Jack up, axle stand and remove wheel
2. Remove 2x self tap hex head inside wheel arch
3. Remove 1x self tap hex head at front of arch (goes vertically through sill)
4. Remove 1x self tap phillips head at back of arch (goes vertically through bumper)
5. Wrestle with liner - but be careful not to rub grit on the paintwork as you pull it out (!)
I found that mud only collects at the front where it fits into the sill. A pipe cleaner is useful to clear the last few lumps
1. Jack up, axle stand and remove wheel
2. Remove 2x self tap hex head inside wheel arch
3. Remove 1x self tap hex head at front of arch (goes vertically through sill)
4. Remove 1x self tap phillips head at back of arch (goes vertically through bumper)
5. Wrestle with liner - but be careful not to rub grit on the paintwork as you pull it out (!)
I found that mud only collects at the front where it fits into the sill. A pipe cleaner is useful to clear the last few lumps
I did all four of mine when I first got the car - also got the rears out with a little bending of the plastic - it feels like it may be getting bent a bit too far but was fine - loads of gunk in the front of the rear sills.
I used to have a '97 2.8 Z3 50k FOR SALE £4699 Shorter 'M' Cup Sport gear knob,M Steering wheel, Alpine / Infinity audio, 18" Alpina style wheels, Clear indicators all round, cold air feed and modified airbox. Miss April in the '09 Calendar.
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- Joined: Fri 14 Aug, 2009 10:24
- Posts: 907
- Location: Houghton-Le-Spring
I took my inner rear wheel arches off my 2.8. There are two bolts inside the wheel arch then one at the back and one at the front, and I didn't have take the bumper off. The bolt heads which are on the front and rear of the wheel arch are removed from underneath, so you have to be under the car to remove them. Hope this helps.
many thanks
Thanks to you all, realoenm shows the front and rear screws coming down from inside rather than up from outside , all is now clear.
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- Joined: Fri 19 Jun, 2009 10:27
- Posts: 2094
- Location: Daglan, France
Rears
I never managed to get my rears off, but bent them enough to clean the dirt out, and while the fronts were off used a hose to wash out the sill cover through the fronts wheel arches.
They certainly recover well from being bent a lot..
They certainly recover well from being bent a lot..
After reading this today I had another go on my car and the rear arch came off really easy. 4 screws undone, detach the front and rear from the bumper/sill and pull it down and inboard and jobsagoodun.
Its given me access to the external temperature sensor, which seems to have an intermittent connection
Its given me access to the external temperature sensor, which seems to have an intermittent connection
Z3M with a few mods...and a little bit more power
Deano, you can try cleaning up the connections (a new one is expensive).
Mine failed as it showed -10degrees and would vary up and down a bit but never within 10 degrees of actual temp
Nb. to non ///M owners its a "trait" of the ///M that BMW chose to put this sensor in such a wierd hard to get at place, I think in non ///M's the sensor is in the front bumper and the part is cheap
Mine failed as it showed -10degrees and would vary up and down a bit but never within 10 degrees of actual temp
Nb. to non ///M owners its a "trait" of the ///M that BMW chose to put this sensor in such a wierd hard to get at place, I think in non ///M's the sensor is in the front bumper and the part is cheap