Brake Pads :(

[chris_mustoe]

Hi All,

I have just taken the Zed in for a oil service and have been advised that I need need rear brake pads staight away, and new discs and pads on the front in about a couple of months time they recon...

I am planning on doing the rears this Friday, Ive printed off the guild from the knowledge base but just wondered if anyone has done this recently and what tools you need... I have most, but knowing my luck I'll have the wheels and brakes off and need something extra!

Any pointers would be great!

[Mike Fishwick]

About the only odd thing you need is a clamp to press the caliper piston back, in order to make room for the new pads. A carpenter's G-clamp will do the job, if used carefully witha piece of plywood etc over the hollow piston end. Make sure the brake fluid reservoir does not overflow while doing this, and suck some out if necessary with a big syringe.

[estocks]

a big syringe.

Don't be tempted to use a turkey baster, it will could leak brake fluid onto your paint.

[dennisedlin]

Just done mine, discs and pads front and rear including wear sensors. Very straightforward using the guide on here.

Only tricky bit was the rear discs which were difficult to get off due to the handbrake shoes. Took a bit of fiddling to wind back the shoe adjuster through the rather small hole provided.

If you are just changing the pads though you will be fine...just make sure you are safe..prop the car on stands NOT on the jack.

[Frank.A]

About the only odd thing you need is a clamp to press the caliper piston back, in order to make room for the new pads. A carpenter's G-clamp will do the job, if used carefully witha piece of plywood etc over the hollow piston end. Make sure the brake fluid reservoir does not overflow while doing this, and suck some out if necessary with a big syringe.

The safest way to do this is to clamp the flexible pipe(using a proper clamp to avoid damage) and attach a pipe to the bleed nipple with the other end submerged in a jar containing brake fluid.

Apply pressure to the piston with the 'G' clamp and open the bleed nipple.Wind the 'G' clamp and push the piston fully in,exhausting excess fluid from the wheel cylinder into the jar .Now tighten the bleed nipple and remove the pipe clamp amd 'G' clamp.

Using this method means the master cylinder doesn't overflow and more importantly no debris from the wheel cylinder is forced back through the ABS system, where it can cause problems.This is a widely accepted method and I believe is recommended by Haynes.

Don't forget to top up the reservoir after fitting the new pads and applying the brakes.

Suitable pipe clamps are available on Ebay for under £4.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Draper-Hydraulic- ... 20ae296698

[Zed Carer]

Hi All,

I have just taken the Zed in for a oil service and have been advised that I need need rear brake pads staight away, and new discs and pads on the front in about a couple of months time they recon...

I am planning on doing the rears this Friday, Ive printed off the guild from the knowledge base but just wondered if anyone has done this recently and what tools you need... I have most, but knowing my luck I'll have the wheels and brakes off and need something extra!

Any pointers would be great!

I used the knowledge base articles earlier this year to replace all 4 discs and pads and the only frustrating thing was getting to the handbrake adjusters to release the shoes so I could get the old discs off.

Its not that difficult but it can be frustrating the first time. I've dug out some notes I made and looking at the wheel as a clock face on mine (99 2.8) the N/s adjuster is around 12:30 and the O/s around 11:30.

Once its jacked up with the wheel removed I would suggest that you roughly position a hole as above, quick squirt of brake cleaner and have a decent torch handy - the adjusters on mine were brass so showed up reasonably well. The other way is just to insert a long screwdriver and "feel" for the adjuster teeth.

To RELEASE the adjusters push the top of the O/s, bottom of the N/s. To tighten is the reverse.

I didn't clamp the brake pipe but I had the pressure bleeder connected and the bleed nipple open when I pushed the pistons back - G clamp and a piece of plywood - there was a lot of debris in the fluid so I did a complete fluid change as well as the clock had just come up.

Good luck.

[maxman]

Brakes are the sort of job that you need to know what you are doing for obvious reasons,if you have not carried out brake pad replacement before i would recommend you have someone with you who is competent in brake overhaul.

[spurs fan in a coupe]

Did my new drilled and grooved, red stuff front brakes last weekend.

best advice is to revoved the screw/bolt holding on the disc itself before taking the caliper off, you can stick a screwdriver in the old disc in the vented section on the side for the fronts and then loosen the hex bolt.

the screwdriver will become wedged between the vented disc and the caliper therefore not moving. If you try and remove this bolt after taking off the caliper then you'll have to hold the disc by hand probably cutting your hand in the process on a nice big lump of rust.

You will need ....
2 diffrent sizes of hex bits one for the disc bolt and one for the 2 bolts under the plastic cap behind the caliper.
standard spanner/socket sizes to get off the caliper (long lever required usually).
Big swan necks to squeeze back the caliper (or other tools already described in thread)
Oh and your locking wheel nut key!
copper grease


bound to have forgotten something!

Good luck