Winter Storage
Winter Storage
Hello All,
There is probably a thread kicking about somewhere with this subject but i'm too lazy to find it
Just sold my sensible family hatchback and am taking delivery of my X5 on Saturday and although I've enjoyed a week of going to work in the Z it's now time she went into the garage till next year
Just looking for any mechanical tips anyone has which would prevent any damage I may cause over the winter. I'm looking to pick up a dust cover off e-bay and she'll be stored in my nice big garage.
I've been told things like i shouldnt put the handbrake on as it may seize?? Just wondered if there are things I should be doing????
Any help would be appreciated!
Cheers
Buz
There is probably a thread kicking about somewhere with this subject but i'm too lazy to find it
Just sold my sensible family hatchback and am taking delivery of my X5 on Saturday and although I've enjoyed a week of going to work in the Z it's now time she went into the garage till next year
Just looking for any mechanical tips anyone has which would prevent any damage I may cause over the winter. I'm looking to pick up a dust cover off e-bay and she'll be stored in my nice big garage.
I've been told things like i shouldnt put the handbrake on as it may seize?? Just wondered if there are things I should be doing????
Any help would be appreciated!
Cheers
Buz
''need I remind you 007, you have a licence to kill...not to break the traffic laws''
Hi Buz,
Will be putting mine into storage week after next, usually just before the first frosts until mid March. I tend not to do too much just.........
Fill up fuel tank.
Wash and wax.
Spray over the engine/ancilliaries with WD40.
Leave hand brake off.
Open hood ajar but not down so rubber seals remain expanded.
Hook up to a CTEK battery conditioner via lighter socket.
Dont bother with a dust cover.
Dont bother increasing tyre pressures.
Will get the Zed out at x-mass and run engine for 45 mins or so keeping revs up every now and again with heater on hot and fan on.
Will run up and down the drive a few times appying the brake.
Next time out will be March
Tim.
Will be putting mine into storage week after next, usually just before the first frosts until mid March. I tend not to do too much just.........
Fill up fuel tank.
Wash and wax.
Spray over the engine/ancilliaries with WD40.
Leave hand brake off.
Open hood ajar but not down so rubber seals remain expanded.
Hook up to a CTEK battery conditioner via lighter socket.
Dont bother with a dust cover.
Dont bother increasing tyre pressures.
Will get the Zed out at x-mass and run engine for 45 mins or so keeping revs up every now and again with heater on hot and fan on.
Will run up and down the drive a few times appying the brake.
Next time out will be March
Tim.
- hornel Z3M
- Joined: Sun 16 May, 2004 20:33
- Posts: 1120
- Location: RAGLAN
storage
Hi Buz007. The good tip is to take the battery off and keep it from the cold weather you can trickle charge it now and again. You are supposed to fill the petrol tank up but i never do and havent had any problems. Keep the handbrake off and put a bit more air in the tyres. As the garage is a good one you will be fine, and the car
-
- Joined: Fri 19 Jun, 2009 10:27
- Posts: 2094
- Location: Daglan, France
Battery
Never ever remove the battery for more than an hour or two, as this will cause the standby batteries in the Service Indicator board to discharge.
These are Ni-Cad cells, which have a very low internal resistance, and so require to be initially charged at a restricted current - by connecting a flat NiCd cell tothe battery it wil be charged at constant voltage, the current going very high. This will wreck the NiCd cell, often causing it to leak electrolyte which corrodes the printed circuit tracks on the SI board.
The first sign is that the SI lights do not work properly, and the only answer is a new SI board.
These are Ni-Cad cells, which have a very low internal resistance, and so require to be initially charged at a restricted current - by connecting a flat NiCd cell tothe battery it wil be charged at constant voltage, the current going very high. This will wreck the NiCd cell, often causing it to leak electrolyte which corrodes the printed circuit tracks on the SI board.
The first sign is that the SI lights do not work properly, and the only answer is a new SI board.
-
- Joined: Fri 14 Aug, 2009 10:24
- Posts: 907
- Location: Houghton-Le-Spring
It is highly likely that fuel will have gone up over the winter, but I always understood that fuel degraded when left for a few months and that it was always advisable to add fresh fuel when taking your car out off storage. If the tank is full, that would be difficult.Fender2004 wrote:If you fill up with fuel before you put your car into storage you will save money, as the fuel will properly be more expensive when you take the car out of storage the following spring.
Plus you will have a full tank of fuel to try your car out in the spring
Perhaps I have been wrongly informed.
Skoda Octavia vRS TSi DSG on Tour at Rocamadour
Re: Battery
Not heard of this one before Mike so will be interesting to see what happens to mine as I've removed the battery completely as an extra security measure as my car is stored in someone elses garage and I will not see it again until next March.Mike Fishwick wrote:Never ever remove the battery for more than an hour or two, as this will cause the standby batteries in the Service Indicator board to discharge.
These are Ni-Cad cells, which have a very low internal resistance, and so require to be initially charged at a restricted current - by connecting a flat NiCd cell tothe battery it wil be charged at constant voltage, the current going very high. This will wreck the NiCd cell, often causing it to leak electrolyte which corrodes the printed circuit tracks on the SI board.
The first sign is that the SI lights do not work properly, and the only answer is a new SI board.
I routinely remove the battery for up to 4 weeks at a time with no adverse effects so far and my previous Z3 had the battery removed for 4 months last year with no adverse effects.
I'll report back next year if 6 months with no battery causes any problems
ps the car obviously has no alarm with the battery removed but has a Thatcham steering lock fitted and "certain" fuses and control modules removed
-
- Joined: Fri 19 Jun, 2009 10:27
- Posts: 2094
- Location: Daglan, France
SI Board
You will get away with it a few times, but each time the SI batteries go flat and are recharged off the main battery damage of various degrees will be done.
A friend with an immaculate E28 528i has just had his SI board fail, as he had been carefully removing the battery every winter.
Just because you can't see it does not mean it is not happening.
A friend with an immaculate E28 528i has just had his SI board fail, as he had been carefully removing the battery every winter.
Just because you can't see it does not mean it is not happening.
- hornel Z3M
- Joined: Sun 16 May, 2004 20:33
- Posts: 1120
- Location: RAGLAN
Mike
According to the BMW manual it says if the car is not being used for more than 6 weeks one must remove the battery and store in a cool place.
Are you suggesting to go against the way the BMW directs you.
Are you suggesting to go against the way the BMW directs you.
Of course its designed to be driven, its a car and storing for a long time can do some harm if not prepped correctly I agree but I would argue the point it does more harm than good as a true "garage queen" will always have less harm from not being driven but then again its not being used as a carsimon-g wrote:Its a car, its designed to be driven, not using the car for extended periods is doing more harm than good.
I would also argue that 6 months is a long time to store a car, personally I would class long term storage as anything over 12 months. I once parked up a company car on a relatives drive for 10 months whilst I worked abroad, I did not prep it at all just locked the doors and walked away. It never moved or was started for 10 months and started first time (god knows how the battery lasted without going flat though)
Anything less than 12 months just requires some basic preparation that is quick and easy.
Oh and my car does get "driven" just not as a daily driver which is pretty common for a 2 seater sports car.
I make no apologise for mine only being driven in summer, its a luxury yes but its exactly why I bought it and I think I'm doing it zero harm in the process as it wants for nothing and is stored appropriately
I would never criticise the OP for simply asking for advice on a matter which is perfectly acceptable and common with these cars, thats what the forum is all about but there always seems some bright spark who has to criticise a car that is not driven every day
As an aside my office block looks out on a storage park of brand new range rovers and fords which can sit there for > 3months without moving ie they are prepped from the factory to potentially sit there for months without moving ie tyres are not moved, engines not started etc they are not even under cover, in fact there is a row of 6 bright green RS focus's that have sat in the same place now for 6 months
ps I'm in a bad mood as I just got knocked out of a poker tournament on the "bubble" (one place out of the money) to a guy who had a 3% chance of winning the hand so apologise for the long post, I'm taking it out on the keyboard
i too put my Zed into winter Hibernation. I agree a car should be driven but as this is my luxury/project/hobby/No1 love ( so says Claire ) i dont want the Zed getting attacked my the salt on the road during winter and damp wet conditions the British weather throws at us. As i cant see me ever selling it i want to keep it as my pride and joy.
The winter period also gives me the chance to do some work on it too ready for the spring.
maybe i should have a second zed for winter use only.
going back to the original question, i use a battery conditioner which most of us on here have got and thats about it.
The winter period also gives me the chance to do some work on it too ready for the spring.
maybe i should have a second zed for winter use only.
going back to the original question, i use a battery conditioner which most of us on here have got and thats about it.
Please help. The money will go to a good cause. email me for the link to my fundraising page.
- markrnorton
- Joined: Mon 05 Jan, 2009 13:19
- Posts: 841
- Location: Essex
I'm not surprisedJonttt wrote:in fact there is a row of 6 bright green RS focus's that have sat in the same place now for 6 months
I saw one of these the other day. It's a long time since I've seen a car quite as hideous. I'm surprised they don't come standard with a paper bag to wear on your head so nobody can see you whilst you're driving it
Sorry for wandering off topic
Seduced by the zed side
Thanks Again,
Call me daft but as I also have the use of an X5 I would say its better to use that to plough through the snow and the Z3 the enjoy the sunshine
Just wanted to make sure i'm doing the best by it as I know there are some guys on here who have immaculate Z's and have had them for years
Cheers for the help tho...most of you!
Call me daft but as I also have the use of an X5 I would say its better to use that to plough through the snow and the Z3 the enjoy the sunshine
Just wanted to make sure i'm doing the best by it as I know there are some guys on here who have immaculate Z's and have had them for years
Cheers for the help tho...most of you!
''need I remind you 007, you have a licence to kill...not to break the traffic laws''
Winter storage! You must be kidding. It was a gloriously sunny day up here today - managed to get out with the roof down despite work.
Even the frog won't be getting laid up for winter - when the hardtop goes on the zed (necessity for working away in winter) - it will be being used when the sun does deem to shine and I am desperate for some top down action.
Cheers R.
Even the frog won't be getting laid up for winter - when the hardtop goes on the zed (necessity for working away in winter) - it will be being used when the sun does deem to shine and I am desperate for some top down action.
Cheers R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
I have to admit Robert, will miss driving the Zed and now starting to think of a hardtop for winter use, still got a storage problem though My biggest fear of dropping the roof is cracking the rear screen Praps borrow a hair dryerRobert T wrote:Winter storage! You must be kidding. It was a gloriously sunny day up here today - managed to get out with the roof down despite work.
Even the frog won't be getting laid up for winter - when the hardtop goes on the zed (necessity for working away in winter) - it will be being used when the sun does deem to shine and I am desperate for some top down action.
Cheers R.
Tim.
I use mine in the winter without any problems. If its cold and I want to drop the roof I either park it in the sun for 10 minutes or run the engine and point the centre vents on full hot at the rear screen for 5 mins. Works a treat and no cracked screen
Great feeling driving around when its been snowing, the sun is out and you've got the roof down
Great feeling driving around when its been snowing, the sun is out and you've got the roof down
Current...1998 ///M Coupe
Previously...1997 Z3 2.8
Previously...1997 Z3 2.8
I've just been out to the garage to warm the car up. Everything is covered in condensation, as always after a thaw. The engine needs a bit of use in winter so now is as good a time as any and it should shift most of the moisture. This is the first winter in 7 years of ownership that I've sorned it so I can't take it for a run.
I came across this guide
Original link (I have un-americanised it
http://www.mcoupebuyersguide.com/
Here are some of the winter storage tips I’ve come across. Some are probably more extreme than I’m going to attempt but worth mentioning anyway:
For Your Engine
NEVER start your coupe unless you plan on driving it for at least a half hour to get it to full operating temperature. It is far better to let it sit for 4-5 months than to idle the engine from time to time to “get the fluids running”. Doing so will just load the engine and exhaust with moisture and open the potential for rust.
Change the oil and filter – Oil gets contaminated during use and those contaminants can cause mild corrosion if left to sit for long periods of time
Top off the petrol from a quality station and avoid Ethanol if possible. Having the fuel topped off prevents condensation from forming in the tank and rusting it from the inside out. Don’t fill it to the top of the neck to leave a little room for expansion and contraction with varying temperatures.
Use a petrol preservative like Stabil to prevent the petrol from breaking down as well as preventing oxidation and rust formation. After adding it, run the engine for at least 10 minutes to allow the mixture to get through the entire system.
Before parking it for storage, take it for an extended drive to get all the fluids up to operating temperature in order to burn off contaminants in the oil and get rid of moisture in the crankcase and exhaust system.
If you live somewhere that rodents could be a concern, place steel wool or a rolled up scotch-brite pad in the tailpipes.
For Your Transmission
Leave your car in gear. Use wheel blocks to prevent it from rolling
For Your Brakes
Never set the parking brake. The brake pads could stick to the rotors or the cables could freeze or rust during storage. Use wheel blocks.
After the final wash, drive it around for a little bit frequently applying the brakes to dry them off well.
For Your Battery
Many people take their batteries out for storage as cool temperatures can reduce the life of the battery. Sitting for an extended period of time without recharging can also significantly reduce the life of a battery. For the Z3, I think it is ideal to purchase a float charger/battery tender to maintain the battery’s charge while it is parked. I’d recommend hooking it up to the leads in the engine bay rather than connecting directly to the battery in the boot. Classic trickle chargers if left un-monitored can overcharge the battery and also reduce it’s life. Float chargers, on the other hand, are designed to charge the battery to an optimal level then maintain that level without overcharging. In my research, I read good things about the following chargers:
BMW Advanced Battery Charger
CTEK 3300
Deltran Battery Tender Plus
For Your Tires
Slightly over inflate the tires by 5-10 psi to help avoid flat spotting from sitting in one place for a long time. This will also help compensate for the cooler temperatures.
Roll the car a few inches forward and back from time to time (without starting the engine of course).
Place cardboard or old carpet squares under the tires to separate them from the cold/hard concrete.
Some people choose to store their car on jack stands to take pressure off the tires completely, but this must be done right or it could cause more harm than good. Place the jackstands under the suspension so that all the bushings and springs sit as they do normally. Letting the wheels droop is hard on the suspension and exposes parts to rust that are normally protected.
For Your Exterior
Purchase a quality car cover for your Z3 to protect it from dust, moisture and dings while stored.
Thoroughly wash (including the undercarriage) and wax your Z3 right before storing it.
Be sure it is completely dry before covering it as moisture is your worst enemy.
To stop moisture from getting under the car, put a couple layers of plastic sheeting under the entire car and several feet to either side. It’s cheap and a good vapor barrier.
For Your Interior
Close all the windows and put the system on max a/c to close the outside vent. If the garage is heated, the window can be left open a small crack to allow air circulation.
Put a large bag of desiccant gel or an open box of baking soda inside the car. These will absorb excess moisture from the air.
Clean and vacuum the interior. Use leather cleaner/conditioner and vinyl cleaner/conditioner as required.
Do NOT use water on the carpets or seats right before storage or you risk mold and mildew.
Do NOT treat inside surfaces with Armor-All (or similar products). They contain a lot of water and chemicals that can encourage mildew and mold.
So there you go. It’s a little overwhelming at first, but really not too bad all in all. I’m new at this so feel free to chime in with comments and corrections.
Original link (I have un-americanised it
http://www.mcoupebuyersguide.com/
Here are some of the winter storage tips I’ve come across. Some are probably more extreme than I’m going to attempt but worth mentioning anyway:
For Your Engine
NEVER start your coupe unless you plan on driving it for at least a half hour to get it to full operating temperature. It is far better to let it sit for 4-5 months than to idle the engine from time to time to “get the fluids running”. Doing so will just load the engine and exhaust with moisture and open the potential for rust.
Change the oil and filter – Oil gets contaminated during use and those contaminants can cause mild corrosion if left to sit for long periods of time
Top off the petrol from a quality station and avoid Ethanol if possible. Having the fuel topped off prevents condensation from forming in the tank and rusting it from the inside out. Don’t fill it to the top of the neck to leave a little room for expansion and contraction with varying temperatures.
Use a petrol preservative like Stabil to prevent the petrol from breaking down as well as preventing oxidation and rust formation. After adding it, run the engine for at least 10 minutes to allow the mixture to get through the entire system.
Before parking it for storage, take it for an extended drive to get all the fluids up to operating temperature in order to burn off contaminants in the oil and get rid of moisture in the crankcase and exhaust system.
If you live somewhere that rodents could be a concern, place steel wool or a rolled up scotch-brite pad in the tailpipes.
For Your Transmission
Leave your car in gear. Use wheel blocks to prevent it from rolling
For Your Brakes
Never set the parking brake. The brake pads could stick to the rotors or the cables could freeze or rust during storage. Use wheel blocks.
After the final wash, drive it around for a little bit frequently applying the brakes to dry them off well.
For Your Battery
Many people take their batteries out for storage as cool temperatures can reduce the life of the battery. Sitting for an extended period of time without recharging can also significantly reduce the life of a battery. For the Z3, I think it is ideal to purchase a float charger/battery tender to maintain the battery’s charge while it is parked. I’d recommend hooking it up to the leads in the engine bay rather than connecting directly to the battery in the boot. Classic trickle chargers if left un-monitored can overcharge the battery and also reduce it’s life. Float chargers, on the other hand, are designed to charge the battery to an optimal level then maintain that level without overcharging. In my research, I read good things about the following chargers:
BMW Advanced Battery Charger
CTEK 3300
Deltran Battery Tender Plus
For Your Tires
Slightly over inflate the tires by 5-10 psi to help avoid flat spotting from sitting in one place for a long time. This will also help compensate for the cooler temperatures.
Roll the car a few inches forward and back from time to time (without starting the engine of course).
Place cardboard or old carpet squares under the tires to separate them from the cold/hard concrete.
Some people choose to store their car on jack stands to take pressure off the tires completely, but this must be done right or it could cause more harm than good. Place the jackstands under the suspension so that all the bushings and springs sit as they do normally. Letting the wheels droop is hard on the suspension and exposes parts to rust that are normally protected.
For Your Exterior
Purchase a quality car cover for your Z3 to protect it from dust, moisture and dings while stored.
Thoroughly wash (including the undercarriage) and wax your Z3 right before storing it.
Be sure it is completely dry before covering it as moisture is your worst enemy.
To stop moisture from getting under the car, put a couple layers of plastic sheeting under the entire car and several feet to either side. It’s cheap and a good vapor barrier.
For Your Interior
Close all the windows and put the system on max a/c to close the outside vent. If the garage is heated, the window can be left open a small crack to allow air circulation.
Put a large bag of desiccant gel or an open box of baking soda inside the car. These will absorb excess moisture from the air.
Clean and vacuum the interior. Use leather cleaner/conditioner and vinyl cleaner/conditioner as required.
Do NOT use water on the carpets or seats right before storage or you risk mold and mildew.
Do NOT treat inside surfaces with Armor-All (or similar products). They contain a lot of water and chemicals that can encourage mildew and mold.
So there you go. It’s a little overwhelming at first, but really not too bad all in all. I’m new at this so feel free to chime in with comments and corrections.
- hornel Z3M
- Joined: Sun 16 May, 2004 20:33
- Posts: 1120
- Location: RAGLAN
winter storage
Excellent find Jonttt. Bet you had all that done before the winter started eh. Great help for Zedders who put their car away for winter.
Re: winter storage
And what a fantastic time saver for those that use them all year round !hornel Z3M wrote:Great help for Zedders who put their car away for winter.
-
- Joined: Tue 28 Dec, 2010 09:37
- Posts: 30
- Location: Hvittingfoss
I filled a can of "Fuel conserver" in the full tank and rode some km's. I will also say that it will be best to change oil and filter before storage. (Castrol Edge 5W30 forinstance). Check the cooolant freezingpoint!
Norwegian who also likes to ride bikes, (Kawasaki ZZR1400 -08).
Sportchassie, sports leather seats, heated seats, el/hyd cab, el windows, el seats, Blaapunkt amp for sub. M44 1,9 engine. -98.
Sportchassie, sports leather seats, heated seats, el/hyd cab, el windows, el seats, Blaapunkt amp for sub. M44 1,9 engine. -98.