Full throttle four times - what's the actual result?
Full throttle four times - what's the actual result?
On a UK 1999 2.8, what does the following actually do?
- key in position one
- floor throttle 4 times
- key in position zero
- start engine
(if you haven't guessed, this is a loaded question... more to follow.)
Cheers!
Tom
- key in position one
- floor throttle 4 times
- key in position zero
- start engine
(if you haven't guessed, this is a loaded question... more to follow.)
Cheers!
Tom
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- Joined: Fri 19 Jun, 2009 10:27
- Posts: 2094
- Location: Daglan, France
Floor
And the answer is . . . nothing!
Apart from giving your foot some exercise, I agree with Mike - it will do sod all - it won't even flood the engine with petrol as the fuel injectors won't do anything.
Now if you were to try that on the frog, you'd probably have to wait half an hour before trying to start the engine as the carb has a mechanical pump on it which squirts petrol directly into the intakes.
Cheers R.
Now if you were to try that on the frog, you'd probably have to wait half an hour before trying to start the engine as the carb has a mechanical pump on it which squirts petrol directly into the intakes.
Cheers R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
- RemarkLima
- Joined: Fri 08 Apr, 2011 13:22
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On my Lotus there was a way, similar to this, can't remember exactly now, so that you'd get 100% throttle signal to the ECU.
So while, you can adjust the cable mechanically, the ECU still needs to know the sensor input, and where it thinks 100% and 0% throttle are... It wouldn't surprise me if there were a way to do this.
So while, you can adjust the cable mechanically, the ECU still needs to know the sensor input, and where it thinks 100% and 0% throttle are... It wouldn't surprise me if there were a way to do this.
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- Joined: Thu 02 Jun, 2011 14:54
- Posts: 82
This link is where some of this inf0rmation is how accurate it is or what vehicles it works on I could not be sure.
What I can say is on my v70 (obd2) workhorse you can reset a variety of faults and lights including the service one and SRS light with similar turning or keys waiting for a few seconds pressing certain buttons etc and it does clear the fault codes etc:
http://e36-drift.blogspot.com/2009/09/4 ... ow-to.html
What I can say is on my v70 (obd2) workhorse you can reset a variety of faults and lights including the service one and SRS light with similar turning or keys waiting for a few seconds pressing certain buttons etc and it does clear the fault codes etc:
http://e36-drift.blogspot.com/2009/09/4 ... ow-to.html
Pumping the pedal six times before even turning it over is the only way to start my Westfield. The two twin choke Dellortos have no choke control.Robert T wrote:Apart from giving your foot some exercise, I agree with Mike - it will do sod all - it won't even flood the engine with petrol as the fuel injectors won't do anything.
Now if you were to try that on the frog, you'd probably have to wait half an hour before trying to start the engine as the carb has a mechanical pump on it which squirts petrol directly into the intakes.
Cheers R.
I will check this thread in a month's time when the answer eventually comes out,
Can't be ars*d wasting my life away reading riddles..
Can't be ars*d wasting my life away reading riddles..
Z3 2.8 Progress Journal (Mine)
Z3 1.9 Sport Progress Journal (Wifey's)
I have an element of 'M-styling' on my car, If that's a good enough reason for the manufacturers to adorn a 320 with the M badge, then its certainly a good enough reason for me..
I only have one Dellorto to worry about with the siamese ports on the A-series - two pumps of the throttle and if it hasn't been run for a while, a couple more whilst turning it over - I have a choke though (and an electric fuel pump).motco wrote:Pumping the pedal six times before even turning it over is the only way to start my Westfield. The two twin choke Dellortos have no choke control.
Cheers R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
It definately clears the throttle body adaptation values on my 99 2.8 with the unusual throttle body that is half cable operated and half electronic.
When it jammed due to excessive soot build up on the butterfly valve it started to run like a cement mixer with all manner of warning lights. Stripped it and cleaned it and the first time I fired it up it was the same. I followed the ignition procedure as stated in the TIS for when you put a new throttle body in and all was well again. It has ran great ever since.
So it summary it worked on mine.
Jas
When it jammed due to excessive soot build up on the butterfly valve it started to run like a cement mixer with all manner of warning lights. Stripped it and cleaned it and the first time I fired it up it was the same. I followed the ignition procedure as stated in the TIS for when you put a new throttle body in and all was well again. It has ran great ever since.
So it summary it worked on mine.
Jas
Okay, I'm back, with the answer. seaDog wins.
My 1999 2.8 has the following fault codes set:
110, 170, 118, 117
Sometimes get EML and traction control light, and when these come on there complete lack of power (i.e. 10mph top speed) and sounds like a misfire.
This matches this bulletin.
Sometimes the lights go off and the power returns on its own. Sometimes they go off with 5+ engine restarts. However, several times now and without fail the lights go off with what I originally posted:
- key in position one
- floor throttle 4 times
- key in position zero
- start engine
(I found that somewhere online, can't remember where. I guess I was just curious how it was related. )
Car is then fine for 30+ miles.
Anyway, car's finally been to the dealer today who has confirmed the throttle valve unit (MDK) is bad. Bad news is the part (pn B13.54.1.433.414) is £342.50 + VAT. In total, they wanted over £750 from me to resolve. Needless to say the work won't be being done there.
So, question is, anyone know a good source for the above part? New or used, not bothered.
Thanks in advance, appreciated.
My 1999 2.8 has the following fault codes set:
110, 170, 118, 117
Sometimes get EML and traction control light, and when these come on there complete lack of power (i.e. 10mph top speed) and sounds like a misfire.
This matches this bulletin.
Sometimes the lights go off and the power returns on its own. Sometimes they go off with 5+ engine restarts. However, several times now and without fail the lights go off with what I originally posted:
- key in position one
- floor throttle 4 times
- key in position zero
- start engine
(I found that somewhere online, can't remember where. I guess I was just curious how it was related. )
Car is then fine for 30+ miles.
Anyway, car's finally been to the dealer today who has confirmed the throttle valve unit (MDK) is bad. Bad news is the part (pn B13.54.1.433.414) is £342.50 + VAT. In total, they wanted over £750 from me to resolve. Needless to say the work won't be being done there.
So, question is, anyone know a good source for the above part? New or used, not bothered.
Thanks in advance, appreciated.
tomf84 wrote: So, question is, anyone know a good source for the above part? New or used, not bothered..
If I did,..... I would make you guess for a week......
Z3 2.8 Progress Journal (Mine)
Z3 1.9 Sport Progress Journal (Wifey's)
I have an element of 'M-styling' on my car, If that's a good enough reason for the manufacturers to adorn a 320 with the M badge, then its certainly a good enough reason for me..
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- Joined: Fri 19 Jun, 2009 10:27
- Posts: 2094
- Location: Daglan, France
Story
You did not tell us the full story when you posed the question - on a normal car it will do nothing, but you were dealing with a faulty throttle body!
Exactly the same symptoms as mine, the stealer said exactly the same thing to me, wanted £700+ to rectify.
Other than the two potentiometers in the electronics side there is not a lot to go wrong with them.
I bet yours is coked up just like mine was, causing the butterfly valve to stick open by a couple of mil and cause the mechanical jam errors.
Took me an hour to remove the throttle body and clean up the butterfly valve and polish with autosol. It really is an easy job just fiddly with not much room to work in.
Jas
Other than the two potentiometers in the electronics side there is not a lot to go wrong with them.
I bet yours is coked up just like mine was, causing the butterfly valve to stick open by a couple of mil and cause the mechanical jam errors.
Took me an hour to remove the throttle body and clean up the butterfly valve and polish with autosol. It really is an easy job just fiddly with not much room to work in.
Jas