Traction control/abs warning lights
Traction control/abs warning lights
Hi all,
The traction control/ stability control light and amber abs lights are permenantly lit. I've drawn the conclusion that it's down to one of the abs sensors as it's all tied in ( at least i think thats the case reading other posts!) Now here comes the questions. Is it best to have the fault codes read to diagnose which sensor is duff or once they've been cleaned it'll sort itself out?
Hope someone can help as I'm not in the habit of paying out money for no reason especially as Wood BMW want to charge £111+vat to read the codes!!!!!
Oh it's a 2000 plate 2.8
The traction control/ stability control light and amber abs lights are permenantly lit. I've drawn the conclusion that it's down to one of the abs sensors as it's all tied in ( at least i think thats the case reading other posts!) Now here comes the questions. Is it best to have the fault codes read to diagnose which sensor is duff or once they've been cleaned it'll sort itself out?
Hope someone can help as I'm not in the habit of paying out money for no reason especially as Wood BMW want to charge £111+vat to read the codes!!!!!
Oh it's a 2000 plate 2.8
My 1999 2.0 has this on and off. The lights have gone off again after 6 weeks on permanently.
I can tell you from experience you don't have ABS or traction control AT ALL when the lights are on...
Common cause is the sensors. Really easy to remove and clean, just takes time jacking and removing the wheels...
I can tell you from experience you don't have ABS or traction control AT ALL when the lights are on...
Common cause is the sensors. Really easy to remove and clean, just takes time jacking and removing the wheels...
BMW Z3 2.0 Titan Silver - Progress Thread
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ABS pumps can fail, but the most common cause is a dirty sensor.
If the lights are on BOTH SYSTEMS ARE DISABLED. You will have neither ABS nor Traction Control. These systems err on the side of caution, and if a fault is detected they are deactivated, as having them activate at the wrong time is deemed worse than them not working at all - the brakes still work, but be prepared to practices cadence braking and watch for spinning the rear wheels up in the wet.
Unlike the airbag light, they do not need the fault code resetting in order to clear the lights. They often clear after a few restarts, only to return the first time the car detects a disparity in wheel rotation speeds.
Cheers R.
If the lights are on BOTH SYSTEMS ARE DISABLED. You will have neither ABS nor Traction Control. These systems err on the side of caution, and if a fault is detected they are deactivated, as having them activate at the wrong time is deemed worse than them not working at all - the brakes still work, but be prepared to practices cadence braking and watch for spinning the rear wheels up in the wet.
Unlike the airbag light, they do not need the fault code resetting in order to clear the lights. They often clear after a few restarts, only to return the first time the car detects a disparity in wheel rotation speeds.
Cheers R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
YupRobert T wrote: the brakes still work, but be prepared to practices cadence braking and watch for spinning the rear wheels up in the wet.
It's whats called old school driving... but a little disconcerting at first. Been living with it on and off for the last year, but really want to sort it before the winter.
BMW Z3 2.0 Titan Silver - Progress Thread
(Pictures - http://s852.photobucket.com/home/gazhyde/allalbums)
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I had the same issue on my Z3 a few moths back, I asked the garage to do a diagnostic whilst it was in for a service and they were able to identify which wheel it was a didn't charge me.
I changed the ABS sensor myself and the problem was solved.
I recommend getting a diagnostic as my sensor was a real pain to remove and snapped during the removal process. If yours are like mine, you wouldn't want to remove each one and test by trial and error..
I changed the ABS sensor myself and the problem was solved.
I recommend getting a diagnostic as my sensor was a real pain to remove and snapped during the removal process. If yours are like mine, you wouldn't want to remove each one and test by trial and error..
- RemarkLima
- Joined: Fri 08 Apr, 2011 13:22
- Posts: 271
If it's a dirty sensor then "normally" the ABS lights will go off when the cars started and then only come back on once you get moving.
The inital check of the sensors andthey all return an expected value, but then as you drive one isn't returning a speed signal, hence the error.
If it's always on then it's probably a duff sensor... The fronts are cheap and easy to come by, the rears seem to be a bit harder to find.
The inital check of the sensors andthey all return an expected value, but then as you drive one isn't returning a speed signal, hence the error.
If it's always on then it's probably a duff sensor... The fronts are cheap and easy to come by, the rears seem to be a bit harder to find.
It's an odd thing, but true. You can get the front sensors of eBay and the likes for around £20 each, but the rears you can only seem to get from BMW for around £75 each.RemarkLima wrote:The fronts are cheap and easy to come by, the rears seem to be a bit harder to find.
Unless anyone knows different that is
BMW Z3 2.0 Titan Silver - Progress Thread
(Pictures - http://s852.photobucket.com/home/gazhyde/allalbums)
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- RemarkLima
- Joined: Fri 08 Apr, 2011 13:22
- Posts: 271
I needed a rear, and ended up getting on from here:GazHyde wrote:It's an odd thing, but true. You can get the front sensors of eBay and the likes for around £20 each, but the rears you can only seem to get from BMW for around £75 each.RemarkLima wrote:The fronts are cheap and easy to come by, the rears seem to be a bit harder to find.
Unless anyone knows different that is
http://www.worldcarparts.co.uk/tabid/14 ... fault.aspx
As it was the best price... I was a little concerned about the dodgy website, but the sensor arrived in no time and fitted perfectly... All been working for months so can't complain!
They seem to have fairly decent prices on most sensors as well, so one to check.
I think some have said E36 / E46 sensor work, they just have a longer cable, but the diagrams look different so it would be a bit of a gamble to see if they fit.
Nice one, bookmarked this for later...!
BMW Z3 2.0 Titan Silver - Progress Thread
(Pictures - http://s852.photobucket.com/home/gazhyde/allalbums)
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Just had the car fault coded and apparently I've got either two blown rear sensors or the ABS brain is fried!!!! I've yet to get the car up and wheels off to check the sensors. If you put a voltmeter across the plugs of the abs sensors (once unplugged) and spin the wheel you should get a reading, indicating they're working. I'm kinda hoping I don't get a reading as I'd sooner buy two sensors than the brain!!!! I'll hopefully post tomorrow with further updates!!!!!
Mine came on whilst I was on the M1 on Saturday - the first time for about 6 months. Stopped for a coffee started the car and moved off and the lights stayed on for about 300 to 400 yds and then went out. I've always assumed that it's a dirty sensor and did try once to get one out but it was siezed in so left them alone. Its probably done this 5 or 6 times in 3.5 years and so far (touching wood quickly) has always reset itself after a short stop (5 to 10 mins).
Hers: Z4 2.0i Sp --------------------- His: Z3 2.8
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- Joined: Thu 31 Dec, 2009 15:39
- Posts: 119
- Location: Gosport
Abs / Traction control lights
Cleaned sensors then replaced them all for about same price as fault code charges at garage, I had to replace the pump in the end. got one off e-bay for about £50 second hand straight forward swap ,you must match up the pump no`s
Plus i know the age of the sensors now
Plus i know the age of the sensors now