Boot central locking problem

Evs87 · Post by **Evs87** » Mon 14 Nov, 2011 20:24

My boot has stopped locking and unlocking with the central locking. I have to do it manually at the boot. Any ideas as to what could be causing this? Cheers

aceman · Post by **aceman** » Mon 14 Nov, 2011 20:33

Nailed on it is the wiring passing through the rubber tube/cable guide on the left side of the boot lid. There are several wires passing through this and they are very prone to breaking particulary our cars are 10+years old now.

If you remove the inner boot carpet and find the wires going upto the hole in the wing you can do a bit of fault finding by checking for continuity using a multimeter. Put a pin through each wire at each end of the cable guide and clip your multimeter to each end this way you can check the continuity. You may also find some of the wires have literaly completely severed making it a bit easier to spot but in either case once you have found the offending wires you will have to splice in replacements, just make sure you solder them in and re-insulate with heatshrink sleeving.

If the above is beyond your capabilities then any competent auto electrician will be able to do this a doddle.

Good luck.

henrycrun · Post by **henrycrun** » Mon 14 Nov, 2011 22:55

A common problem. Use the search box to read other threads

Evs87 · Post by **Evs87** » Tue 15 Nov, 2011 20:28

cheers, will have a look at it over the weekend

Fender2004 · Post by **Fender2004** » Fri 25 May, 2012 14:32

My boot lock has just stopped working,

I can lock it with the key but not the remote although two doors lock. I have also noticed an extra beep when the alarm is turned on.
Is this telling me that everything is not locked

I have read other posts about the wire coming through the boot having a kink and snapping. I think that my wires are ok as I have power at the connector in the photo. (assuming this is the correct one)

Therefore I'm guessing that it is the actuator that is at fault

Any help would be great

I have a 1997 2.8 if this helps

Post by **Robert T** » Fri 25 May, 2012 14:57

Whilst it could be the actuator, my first guess would be that the wire leading to the microswitch has snapped and the car now thinks that the boot is open. The microswitch is in the top of the conical hole on the bottom left of the boot lock in your photo. The wiring normally fails where it bends at the boot lid hinge and you will need to remove the sleeve to see whether this is the case. I would have to check the wiring diagram, but there may well also be an earth wire for the boot lid, as I am not sure of the electrical conductivity of the hinges - if this has snapped, then the neither the microswitch or actuator would work.

Cheers R.

Fender2004 · Post by **Fender2004** » Fri 25 May, 2012 15:05

Thanks for that I will have a look at the wires as you suggest

BladeRunner919 · Post by **BladeRunner919** » Fri 25 May, 2012 15:06

Fender2004 wrote:My boot lock has just stopped working, I can lock it with the key but not the remote although two doors lock. I have also noticed an extra beep when the alarm is turned on.
Is this telling me that everything is not locked

I have read other posts about the wire coming through the boot having a kink and snapping. I think that my wires are ok as I have power at the connector in the photo. (assuming this is the correct one)

Therefore I'm guessing that it is the actuator that is at fault

That connector looks like the one for the boot light, though it's a while since I did the same exercise.

The extra beep does signify the alarm sees one of the activation points as already activated. Lock the car with the remote, then during the first 45 or so seconds, while the dash led is still on constantly, you can test the activation points of the car and the alarm will respond with a single tone, rather than going off. So you can, for instance unlock the car with the key (beep), open a door, (beep), open the bonnet (beep) etc... I'd remove the bulb from the boot light first (careful, easy to short the exposed connector and blow a fuse) to avoid that triggering the alarm as a voltage drop and giving a false positive result.

The biggest culprit for the extra beep is the bonnet sensor, as they are terribly unreliable. If it is the bonnet sensor, unplugging it stops the extra beep, but does leave the bonnet unprotected.

Fender2004 · Post by **Fender2004** » Fri 25 May, 2012 15:10

Thanks more knowledge gained

Fender2004 · Post by **Fender2004** » Sat 26 May, 2012 13:09

I've taken the actuator out of the car as you can see, and there is no power to the actuator according to my multi meter, and also done a continuity test on the actuator meaning the actuator is ok.

So must be the kink/break in the wire, so I removed the outer cable but all the wires look fine.

Is there anywhere else I should be looking?

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