Do our zeds rust?

Z3cade · Post by **Z3cade** » Tue 13 Dec, 2011 13:12

As ive never really come across a thread on here bout rust i was wondering is there any places on the zed that can be prone to rust?

I ask because im thinking of taking my sills off so i can waxoyl behind them... Purely for protection. Or is it not worth it?

motco · Post by **motco** » Tue 13 Dec, 2011 13:48

I'd like to know about this too as I am probably going to get mine Waxoyled.

yalden · Post by **yalden** » Tue 13 Dec, 2011 13:54

From my experience, the most common place for bubbling is around the boot lock. I presume if left untreated this would eventually develop into a more severe rust spot?

I'm also on the lookout for a new OEM front o/s wing. Mine has at some time stone chipped, water has got beneath the paint and there are signs of bubbling!

Deano1712 · Post by **Deano1712** » Tue 13 Dec, 2011 14:06

The sills are prone to rusting. See some photos on this post I did a couple of years ago:
http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... inter+jobs

nero · Post by **nero** » Tue 13 Dec, 2011 14:09

Ends of the sills - dirt gets trapped between the sill and the plastic inner arch

Boot lids around the chrome pull (on facelift models) - the hole was opened up to allow for the larger chromed pull, but wasn't properly protected. This used to be repaired (respray boot lid) FOC at the dealers

Badman gee · Post by **Badman gee** » Tue 13 Dec, 2011 14:09

Z3cade wrote:As ive never really come across a thread on here bout rust i was wondering is there any places on the zed that can be prone to rust?

I ask because im thinking of taking my sills off so i can waxoyl behind them... Purely for protection. Or is it not worth it?

this obsession is not healthy

Z3cade · Post by **Z3cade** » Tue 13 Dec, 2011 14:35

Badman gee wrote:
Z3cade wrote:As ive never really come across a thread on here bout rust i was wondering is there any places on the zed that can be prone to rust?

I ask because im thinking of taking my sills off so i can waxoyl behind them... Purely for protection. Or is it not worth it?
this obsession is not healthy

I know.. Its getting that bad i want to take all the wheels off and clean under the arch liners..

Badman gee · Post by **Badman gee** » Tue 13 Dec, 2011 14:39

3 years yan had it not a drop of rain on it.

you had it 24 hours and it was in a down pour

lol

Z3cade · Post by **Z3cade** » Tue 13 Dec, 2011 15:16

Shurrrup you....

I did fully detail it the next morning!!

Deano after reading your thread i think mine will be going on axle stands this weekend

Even if it isnt rusty its worth protecting these areas...

peteslag · Post by **peteslag** » Tue 13 Dec, 2011 15:19

Just leave it to rust. You could have the first ever "rat" look Z3 in the country

Z3cade · Post by **Z3cade** » Tue 13 Dec, 2011 15:56

peteslag wrote:Just leave it to rust. You could have the first ever "rat" look Z3 in the country

No.. I'll let you try that if you like

peteslag · Post by **peteslag** » Tue 13 Dec, 2011 16:06

Been there done that, I've had plenty of rat look cars in the past (not by choice I hasten to add). My first motor was more rust than it was car

hornel Z3M · Post by **hornel Z3M** » Tue 13 Dec, 2011 17:47

I had my wheels off twice to clean all the suspension and springs with wd 40. the place you will see a problem is where the stones hit the lip next to the wheel arch. i am going to fill the small gap between them with black silicone to stop the water, (thats from washing the car by the way not, rain) getting between them.

pingu · Post by **pingu** » Wed 14 Dec, 2011 01:34

Underneath (axle) has quite a lot of rust, but the metal is so thick it doesn't matter for a while.

Driver's door below the quarter light needs doing. Some spots appearing on the sills. Not much else.

For a 13 yr old car it's in good shape

.

[edit: I've dug deeper - see my next post

]

Post by **Robert T** » Wed 14 Dec, 2011 18:19

Sills and wing-mirror bases, plus the top nut on the slam plate for the power steering cooling ring.

Boot lock is not normally a problem on cars without the opener fitted.

Other than that, BMW galvanizing is pretty damn good.

Cheers R.

motco · Post by **motco** » Wed 14 Dec, 2011 18:24

Robert T wrote:Sills and wing-mirror bases, plus the top nut on the slam plate for the power steering cooling ring.

Boot lock is not normally a problem on cars without the opener fitted.

Other than that, BMW galvanizing is pretty damn good.

Cheers R.

...and the power steering cooling ring itself.

TitanTim · Post by **TitanTim** » Wed 14 Dec, 2011 21:35

Just keep of them salty roads and you will be fine

Tim.

Jamezee · Post by **Jamezee** » Thu 15 Dec, 2011 00:35

motco wrote:I'd like to know about this too as I am probably going to get mine Waxoyled.

If you do let us all know how you got on. I think a previous owner had mine done but I would consider having it done again cost dependant

TitanTim · Post by **TitanTim** » Thu 15 Dec, 2011 06:32

I can recommend Dinitrol for the box sections and underside as it wont dry out like waxoyl.

Tim.

motco · Post by **motco** » Thu 15 Dec, 2011 08:48

TitanTim wrote:I can recommend Dinitrol for the box sections and underside as it wont dry out like waxoyl.

Tim.

Well actually it might be Dinitrol. I was having an oil service at Phil Crouch's place in Amersham (CPC Performance) and he mentioned that he could do it so I intend to make a date with him very soon. I don't know exactly what he uses.

c_w · Post by **c_w** » Thu 15 Dec, 2011 13:19

Spot-welds, of which there are many in the boot and engine bay area are prone to rusting as it kills the rust proofing/galvanising on the metal. My coupe has few rust spots around the engine bay spot-welds as did my old 2.8 roadster.

TWO · Post by **TWO** » Sat 07 Jan, 2012 22:55

yalden wrote:From my experience, the most common place for bubbling is around the boot lock. I presume if left untreated this would eventually develop into a more severe rust spot?

I have got the same problem

Does anyone know how easy it is to remove the boot lock and if so the procedure?

Many thanks

pingu · Post by **pingu** » Mon 09 Jan, 2012 01:50

I've taken off the sills and both rear wings. There is rust on the inside of them all. The galvanising doesn't help now. In fact, it makes things worse. It was great at stopping the car rusting for 10 years, but now there is corrosion everywhere and you can't get to it as it is under the coating. The panels need to be completely stripped and painted from scratch - this isn't going to happen. I'll attack the worst of it and I'll have to live with what's left

.

There is no way our cars will last as long as Robert T's frog

.

Post by **Robert T** » Mon 09 Jan, 2012 09:37

pingu wrote:There is no way our cars will last as long as some bits Robert T's frog .

Fixed that for you!

The frog has had a new floor pan, wings, wheels, engine, gearbox.... it's a classic British sports car - built to rust.

Cheers R.

pingu · Post by **pingu** » Mon 09 Jan, 2012 10:01

The difference between your frog and our cars is that yours could have been treated by the 1st owner to last. Ours couldn't. Galvanising is great if its done properly with very high quality steel underneath. Ours were built to last 6 years with no external signs of rust. They passed that test with flying colours, but now the steel is starting to break down under the zinc coating (I reckon that it's just cosmetic problems for the next 20 years - so no immediate panic).

Badman gee · Post by **Badman gee** » Mon 09 Jan, 2012 16:58

thanks for the video Gary.

Will you consider new sills?

Mark

TitanTim · Post by **TitanTim** » Mon 09 Jan, 2012 17:19

pingu wrote:I've taken off the sills and both rear wings. There is rust on the inside of them all. The galvanising doesn't help now. In fact, it makes things worse. It was great at stopping the car rusting for 10 years, but now there is corrosion everywhere and you can't get to it as it is under the coating. The panels need to be completely stripped and painted from scratch - this isn't going to happen. I'll attack the worst of it and I'll have to live with what's left .

There is no way our cars will last as long as Robert T's frog .

.

They will if you keep the car off the road during winter. A salt bath is the quickest way for your car to deteriorate.

Tim.

pingu · Post by **pingu** » Mon 09 Jan, 2012 17:45

The painter I use has suggested bead-blasting the sills back to bare metal

. I've started doing the other bits and will probably get them blasted. It's all down to price.

It won't be a new one, though - eek

TitanTim wrote:They will if you keep the car off the road during winter. A salt bath is the quickest way for your car to deteriorate.

Unfortunately, some inconsiderate barsteward has been driving mine

.

z-pru · Post by **z-pru** » Thu 15 Mar, 2012 18:10

Just done my sills, not an easy job but very satisfiying once done. Replaced some of the wheel arch bolts because they were rusted away and needed some new door seal trim clips as I broke half of mine getting the trim off. I may post pictures to follow.

zroadster.net

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