Newbie New Z3 Issues and codes please help

laurieh · Post by **laurieh** » Wed 29 Aug, 2012 08:24

Hi all

My first Z3 1.9 1999

I will start from the beginning.
Brought the car Z3 1.9i 1999, was aware of track rods needed replacing. Was told the lambda sensor was replaced week before i purchased the car.
Picked car up from Leicester and drove back home to Dorset with no issues.
the following day done a quick checkover the car and found the exhaust was blowing and had been filled with filler. Took it to my local garage and they temp repaired exhaust by some very clever welding(just to keep cost down) also air filter (non OEM) and oilf filter and oil replaced, car running very smooth
1 week after I went to start car which turned over but then stalled, managed to keep the engine running with some high revs. Approached traffic lights and Idled horribly and stalled.

After 15 mins of driving things calmed down but was idling at 12-1300 rpm. Got back home and set about cleaning the MAF sensor. This looked brand new with not a spec of dust in sight , put back together and car seemed ok. Used the car daily for a week to and from work 5 mile trip each way with no probs. Came to the weekend drove the car Saturday for about 30 mins all fine. Sunday jumped in the car and guess what!, it stalled again when started, exactly the same issue as previous.

So took it to my local chappy who plugged it in to his diagnostic machine and this is what it found.

P0135- O2 SENSOR HEATER CIRCUIT BANK 1 SENSOR 1
P0170- FUEL TRIM BANK 1
P0101- MASS OR VOLUME AIR FLOW SENSOR 'A' CIRCUIT RANGE/PERFORMANCE
P0111- INTAKE AIR TEMP SENSOR 1 CIRCUIT RANGE/PERFORMANCE BANK 1

Also to not I did have a look at the intake induction hose, the one which goes above the rad, it's connector to the air intake was off, so reconnected and checked the rest of the hose and had deep creases on, its the wire braded hose with a foam and thin plastic material covering. Not sure if this could be related to any of the above.

Thanks guys, really need some help

Gazza · Post by **Gazza** » Wed 29 Aug, 2012 09:24

Did your guy reset the codes after ?

I think your problem sounds air related

Del · Post by **Del** » Wed 29 Aug, 2012 11:13

The air intake hose on top of the radiator just channels colder air into the air filter box because colder air is better for the combustion process – if it were disconnected it would not make the significant running issues you describe. I doubt very much if it has anything to do with your problem. Furthermore the O2 sensor does not come into operation when the engine is started from cold i.e. the first morning start of the day.

My first suspicion with be a vacuum air leak as Gazza says. The problem areas are the rubber boot immediately downstream from the MAF sensor – they perish and split with age – I would have a good look at it and check for cracks in the grooves – any sign of damage I would replace it – costs around £19 from BMW dealer.

If you have the 1.9 M44 engine there is also a “little tree” of vacuum pipework that branches off the MAF rubber boot and connects to each injector (under the inlet manifold). This pipework is also prone to splitting with age and can be replaced for OEM BMW part for around £30.

I did all this on my 1.9 M44 and it ran a lot better.

BladeRunner919 · Post by **BladeRunner919** » Wed 29 Aug, 2012 11:20

I'm with Del and Gazza - very likely an airleak.

You may be able to pin it down a bit with a can of WD40 or even a water spray. Squirt it around the air hoses with the engine running and listen for a change in idle speed as the WD40/water gets sucked in.

laurieh · Post by **laurieh** » Thu 30 Aug, 2012 08:21

Cheers guys,

Yesterday once started was running ok but idling high for the first 15 mins then idled ok after.

Did check hoses with a spray of water but no change in idling. This morning started and stalled, tried revving but engine shook then stalled.

Have not changed the fuel filter as yet, but if its anything like the state of the oil filter was then I think I will tackle that today.

colb · Post by **colb** » Sun 02 Sep, 2012 16:09

Laurieh
I seem to have the same problem as you at the moment, have been putting right some codes I found just after I bought the car, first one was the Camshaft Sensor, tried a cheap ebay item but code came back bought a BMW sensor then for £90 and that fixed it.
Put a new Maf on it then and it transformed the car, performance increased no end.
Changed the Exhaust sensors as well as I thought they were a little slow when I monitored them on my computer.
Now have the same problem as you from cold start, lumpy running and stalls, can keep it going with use of the accelarator pedal and once its warmed up it runs perfectly. Have checked all the air hoses for leaks but cannot find any leaks, cleaned the throttle body as well. To day I changed the fuel filter, mine had the original 1999 filter still installed.
Will have to wait for a cold start again to see if anything has improved and check for codes again.
Be interested in what you find with yours.

Colb

colb · Post by **colb** » Wed 05 Sep, 2012 20:07

Update on my cold start idle problem, whilst still trying to track down the suspected air leak the Disa valve in the intake started clacking which confirmed my suspicion that it was my problem. Fitted a new unit today and then tried a cold start and problem with idle has gone, road test and all is well, checked codes and nothing showed up.
Took it for another run then checked the codes again, just got a pending code for exhaust sensor bank 1 circuit malfunction, new sensor fitted so must check the wiring.
If you cant find an air leak suspect the Disa Valve I reckon mine had a leak in the inside diaphram small at first then got larger whilst I was looking for the leak, problem finding it till it got bad enough for the valve to start the clacking noise. The problem was going when the car warmed up which didn't help with pinpointing the cause when started from cold. Expensive fix £142.10 trade price from BMW.

Colb

colb · Post by **colb** » Sun 09 Sep, 2012 18:42

Alas my bad idling from cold start is back, new Disa Valve has not cured it.
1999 1.8 z3 things I've done so far.
New camshaft Sensor
New Plugs
New Exhaust Sensors Front and Back
New Maf
New Disa Valve
New Fuel Filter
New Crank Breather Valve
Cannot find any air leaks
Cold Start the idle is terrible and will stall if I don't play with the throttle to keep it going, once the car warms up to temp it idles fine and drives and responds very well.
Last code it set was for exhaust sensor bank 1 circuit malfunction, cleared that code and monitored it when car was up to temp, seems to be performing as it should on my engine check software, it is a new sensor.
Tried disconnecting the idle valve while the engine was running idle immediatley raised, plugged it back in and idle returned to stable it did set a code about the idle valve when I disconnected it so have ruled it out as being faulty.
May have to bite the bullet and take it to an Indy to see what they can find unless anyone else has any ideas?

Colb

OldskoolRS · Post by **OldskoolRS** » Mon 10 Sep, 2012 15:23

Might be worth doing the reset that clears all the 'learnt' settings of the sensors. I can't remember what this is called now, but it's sometimes mentioned in the Bentley book to reset it after fitting certain parts.

I'll edit this post later if the correct term comes to me later (I put it down to age

).

Del · Post by **Del** » Mon 10 Sep, 2012 19:40

Hi Colb

I had a very similar problem (on my 1998 1.9 M44) the solution to which I was chasing from October 2011 to March 2012, having bought the car in June 2011. Like you I had a noisy DISA valve and I replaced it for a cost of £140+.

Like you I worked through a long list of possibilities always keeping in mind that vacuum leaks are a common cause of cold start problems. I replaced my cam position sensor, coolant temperature sensor, CVV, most vacuum pipework, changed MAF for a second-hand spare, checked resistance of coil, cleaned the idle control valve, cleaned the throttle body and replaced the upper manifold gasket. Code readings at a local garage were vague just pointing to a general misfiring issue.

The situation in colder winter weather was very bad. The car would often not start or feel as if it was just firing on one or two cylinders – like you it was fine when warmed up.

After countless hours searching various forums I discovered that my M44 engine (I’m not sure if the M43 as well) is susceptible to sticking valve lifters. This seems to be exacerbated where the car has not enjoyed frequent enough oil changes or perhaps had oil put in with the wrong viscosity. Also low mileage cars sometimes have a history of usage involving short trips during which the engine does not get properly warmed up and so sludge and carbon can bung up various nooks and crannies.

I changed my oil in March this year using Mobil 0W/40 and the problem immediately disappeared along with the pronounced clicking I had at tick-over. I intend to change the oil well before the green lights go out and use only fully synthetic with the lower rating of 0W or 5W. Mike Fishwick, has on various postings, suggested using oil also suitable for diesel engines as it has plenty of detergent in it. I already have a supply of 5w/40 (petrol or diesel suitable) for the next change.

Oil change – worth a try – I would never have believed it myself.

colb · Post by **colb** » Tue 11 Sep, 2012 19:33

Thanks Delo for the info on oil and sticking valve lifters.

Had it in pieces again this evening, lifted off the intake so I could get to the hose that connects to the injector rail, pulled that off and inspected it, no splits it all looked good. Checked the 4 rubber gaskets that are between the top and bottom of the inlet, they all looked good.
Put it all back together and started her up, to be fair she was still hot after running it to temp. before I stripped it down, the cold start was the same before I stripped it down, running like a bag of nails, spluttering and dying, had to give it revs to keep it going. When its like this I cannot go and look at the engine it would just stall, have to wait till its warmed up and ticking over as normal.
Had another good look and feel around the engine bay and cannot find an air leak for the life of me.
I'm not sure I can hear a hiss or just picking up noise from the inlet and injectors, I do hear what I can only describe as a hiss every 10 seconds or so when its up to temp and idling, I also have a distinct hiss from the engine when I switch it off, I have sprayed water over all the suspect places but no joy in finding any fault. Oil has been changed with fully synthetic before all this started and car started and ran fine albeit replacing the cam sensor and Maf transformed it when these were changed.
Also disconnected the neg battery connection for half an hour before restarting, did't have time to road test it will have to wait to try another cold start and drive.
I am thinking maybe there is a air leak somewhere and its open when cold, as the car heats up the leak closes up, anyone ever had a problem that this was the cause? Maybe I need a smoke test to either find it or discount it?
Last straw will be visit to my local Indy, I want to fix this myself if I can ever find the cause.

Colb

colb · Post by **colb** » Sat 22 Sep, 2012 19:02

Update on my idle problem, stripped the inlet manifold down today whilst the car was cold and replaced the inlet gaskets between the manifold and the head. Cleaned out the manifold and cleaned and checked all the injector o rings, they all looked good. Put it all back together and tried a cold start, no change fires up but revs drop and car stalls, have to play about with the accelerator pedal to keep it running. As soon as the engine warms up it idles and runs perfectley. Cleaned out the idle control valve again and refitted, will have to wait till the morning to try another cold start to see if that has made any difference. Next step will be an engine flush and oil change to see if the valve lifters sticking is the cause as suggested by Del

Dougblack · Post by **Dougblack** » Sun 23 Sep, 2012 09:11

I had similar, only just fixed mine with a pulled throttle body from the scrappy, I went the hole MAF, fuel pressure route... Turns out it seems I ha a dodgy ICV and a TPS stuck at TWO, the revs had been adjusted by a previous owner to compensate for the ICV by changing the throttle stop screw. I took a trek down the scrappy an pulled the whole throttle body including ICV and TPS (chose a rear crash damage car as it must have been running to crash, and rear impact wouldn't have hit the engine). Blagged a MAF as it looked quite new, all for 30 quid... Swapped out the throttle body, problems instantly fixed! Plus looks to have cured my shitty high CO emissions (I blame TPS reporting TWO for that), but ICV deffo sounds your problem... (Ps they aint cheap new )

colb · Post by **colb** » Sun 23 Sep, 2012 10:25

Hi Dougblack
Saw your post on your scrapyard bargains.
Just been looking at my OBDii recordings from yesterdays hot run, the TPI is working the readings are 0.0 at idle when hot and range up and down when you drive the car so I think my TPI is ok. If I disconnect the ICV when running the revs rise and it sets a code, plugging it back in restores the idle so I reckon that proves its working ok.
The MAF is also working. I have not touched the throttle stop screw but thats not to say previous owner hasn't.
Both Exhaust sensors are working and I can see their voltage ranging up and down when I monitor them on my computer.
I am preety certain I have ruled out any air leaks but am puzzeled by the fact that as the car warms up it runs perfectly, its just the cold start that has this running problem.
Just been out and started the car from cold and the problem is still there, fires up revs rise when it fires but immediatley drop and stalls can only get it to run by use of throttle, as soon as the car starts to warm up the revs start to stabalise and then runs fine.
May try the engine flush and new oil to see if its sticking valve lifters causing it next.
Might have a look around the local scrapyards as well for some parts to substitute.

Colb

Dougblack · Post by **Dougblack** » Sun 23 Sep, 2012 16:46

Mine did pretty much the same... Like the icv was working, but 'sluggish' so to speak, when replaced all went perfect, did you say you tried starting from cold with no icv plugged in? I ask as when my previous one was cold, same problem, but when warm was fine... As say I'm no expert, but just trying to relay some of the bits I found on mine... I've had to dip in to all these problems of late... Even though may jut e coincidence... But yeh...

Del · Post by **Del** » Sun 23 Sep, 2012 18:24

Hi Colb

Sorry to hear you're still getting problems.

"Sticky" valve lifters usually emit a noticeable clicking of tapping noise at tickover. For cold start (only) problems all my investigations suggested one of the following:-

Vacuum leak
Faulty MAF
Compression issue (ie sticking valve with cold/gummed oil)
Possible coolent sensor (approx £15)
Possible air temp sensor (approx £15)
However, would expect specific MAF or other sensor problem to show up on the diagnostic tool.

I would have expected any fuel supply/pressure problem to show itself on a warm engine as well, particularly under heavy throttle. Other issues like dodgy coil, plugs or pre-cat lambda sensor tend to be associated with warm/hot start problems.

See the interesting articles below about sticking valve lifters.

http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... ve+lifters

http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... hlight=m44

colb · Post by **colb** » Sun 23 Sep, 2012 19:29

Dougblack

Just been out and tried starting with the ICV disconnected, cold start just the same fires up but stalls immediately.
Whipped it off and gave it a good soaking with carb cleaner and a poke around with a small brush a couple of times, blew it out with airline and bolted it back on. Cold start and the revs stayed up it didn't stall, still a bit lumpy but it didn't die.
Looks like I am going to source a replacement to prove this is the problem. Will try and have a look around some breakers yards locally before I get one from a supplier.

Colb

Dougblack · Post by **Dougblack** » Sun 23 Sep, 2012 21:21

Deffo a breakers yard, I asked at BMW stealer and they quoted 250+ gbp for a newun, as said don't ask for the ICV at the breakers, ask for a throttle body, I did that and got the throttle body, ICV and TPS for 20 quid (I looked for a rear crash damage- means must have been running ok, and engine end wasn't smashed so still should be good).. Ball ache I had was the 1.9 M44 one is only on the Z3 1.9 and the 1.8ti 3 series, I was lucky with the first BM I cracked the bonnet open down the yard... Hopefully yours a more 'common' one among BM's...

Dougblack · Post by **Dougblack** » Sun 23 Sep, 2012 21:26

Ah, just saw you got the same as me.. 1.9... Ball ache but then with the amount of yoofs who like the old 3 series and write them off through being a dick will probably see you good when looking for spares...

Del · Post by **Del** » Sun 23 Sep, 2012 21:27

Is this the one on your car Colb?

http://www.worldcarparts.co.uk/tabid/14 ... fault.aspx

colb · Post by **colb** » Sun 23 Sep, 2012 22:14

Del
Yes thats the one, just bought one on ebay for £18, used but worth a try.

Colb

Dougblack · Post by **Dougblack** » Sat 29 Sep, 2012 08:18

Did this fix the problem?

colb · Post by **colb** » Sat 29 Sep, 2012 13:26

Swapped the idle control valve, it is working got movement when power applied but problem at cold start still there, it fires and just dies, only way to keep it running is to play with the throttle and revs, once warm it idles ok, drives great.
Called in my local Indy today and booked it in with them for middle week, going to drop it off the night before so they can cold start it next day to see the problem.
My guess is its a duff sensor but having changed most of them I am probably wrong.
Only thing I have not done is flush thge engine regarding possible valve lifters sticking at cold.
Will report back

Colb

philscotlqnd · Post by **philscotlqnd** » Sat 29 Sep, 2012 15:34

Help 1997 z3 failed mot emissions lambda high and c02 changed lambda and cat new rear pipe MAF and still getting high c02 levels

Fast idle
RPM 2765
CO =0.65
HC =72
Lambda = 1.027

Second fast idle
RPM 2400
CO = 0.68
HC = 0.68
Lambda = 1.029

Natural idle
RPM 870
Co = 0.56

Del · Post by **Del** » Sat 29 Sep, 2012 17:01

philscotlqnd wrote:Help 1997 z3 failed mot emissions lambda high and c02 changed lambda and cat new rear pipe MAF and still getting high c02 levels

Fast idle
RPM 2765
CO =0.65
HC =72
Lambda = 1.027

Second fast idle
RPM 2400
CO = 0.68
HC = 0.68
Lambda = 1.029

Natural idle
RPM 870
Co = 0.56

You really need to plug your car into a fault code reader to see if something like a coil or cam postion sensor is faulty. Its not worth spending a lot more of your money just by speculating.

Dougblack · Post by **Dougblack** » Sat 29 Sep, 2012 17:52

Y'know I have very similar emissions problem? My Lambda is just in though CO is up a little higher though. I've been through ICV, TPS, MAF, put a clean throttle body on, new thermostat, viscous fan (wondered if temp was an issue at that point), air filter. At that point my IPNA software/cable arrived. I saw the ICV and MAF error codes, cleared them as had new on since the code date, also had the 112 phase sensor (cam sensor), which I did today, along with all the vacuum hoses I could identify and a set of new NGK sparks.... I have a new O2 to put on, but current one is bouncing between vales as I'd expect so not done that yet.... Beyond all this if it still fails i have no clue...

if anyone has any pointers (I also pulled the fuel pressure regulator - looked ok), was going to replace with a re-con, but was the wrong bloody one they sent, so put the original back on. Sparks looked ok, no fouling on old ones, so no tell tale sign there, and no fault codes showing anymore. Any ideas if I have problems on next emmisions test as really dont want to do the CAT :/

Del · Post by **Del** » Sat 29 Sep, 2012 18:53

Hi Doug

Are you saying that all the fault codes have now cleared and the car is running fine but the CO readings are still high?

Dougblack · Post by **Dougblack** » Sat 29 Sep, 2012 19:13

Well, I had the high CO, replaced MAF, TPS, ICV, had checked o2 sensor on ipna and seemed ok. couldn't find vac leaks had a test, failed again (but ran better). Today I finally killed the Cam sensor (the only outstanding code - replaced the sensor this morning and replaced vac lines (all of which looked ok anyway) and did the sparks. Haven't had a test yet, but was a just in case question... As part of me still isn't confident it will pass... Just dont know what next, got underneath it today, and CAT had no rattles etc (actually looked quite clean compared to the exhaust - possibly already been replaced before?)

But yeh... Any ideas if it still fails?

philscotlqnd · Post by **philscotlqnd** » Sat 29 Sep, 2012 19:19

Cheers Del
Will have to get it checked out....was running great prior to mot changed the lambda as original fault was lambda reading high changed that then the co2 reading failed on retest mot guy suggested maf or cat might be faulty changed them and back box....since then she stutters between 1000-2500 in first second and third gear once past 2500 it pulls as it should??? losing the will to live now lol

philscotlqnd · Post by **philscotlqnd** » Sat 29 Sep, 2012 19:19

Cheers Doug Will have to get it checked out....was running great prior to mot changed the lambda as original fault was lambda reading high changed that then the co2 reading failed on retest mot guy suggested maf or cat might be faulty changed them and back box....since then she stutters between 1000-2500 in first second and third gear once past 2500 it pulls as it should??? losing the will to live now lol

Dougblack · Post by **Dougblack** » Sat 29 Sep, 2012 19:20

These are my test values

These were pre sparks and cam sensor today, only diff is the 'smoothness' rates a little higher now. Everything else same. This was the error i got pre cam sensor, but as said, this has been replaced and is not re-occuring (it was coming on previously within seconds of running the car).

(Although it had changed from 'sporadic' to 'static' before I changed it)

Dougblack · Post by **Dougblack** » Mon 01 Oct, 2012 20:18

Wheyy, I had good news! Cam sensor brought all back as it should... Passed it 'medical' with full flying colours!! Woooo!

Del · Post by **Del** » Mon 01 Oct, 2012 21:17

That's good news - the Cat is probably perfectly OK. The OE E36 cats are known amongst MOT testers to take longer to get to their correct, working heat. Under the fast idle test they stick at around 0.5 Co for ages and then start to steadily drop to the required 0.2 or less. The car should be running well now with all those new and cleaned up bits.

Hopefully Colb can get his sorted.

colb · Post by **colb** » Tue 02 Oct, 2012 19:52

Well I am glad Dougblack sorted his out, dropped mine off at the local Indy tonight with a detailed description of what I have thrown at it so far.

Usual story when I got it out the garage to take it to them, cold start fires up and revs drop and stalls, play with the throttle to keep it going and once warm idles perfect.
After a 50 mile run on Saturday thge MIL came on, no time to plug it in and read it and thought it might be best left for the Indy to see.
I suspect its a Fuel Trim Bank 1 code.

Quite eager to know what they find is the cause of this problem.

Colb

colb · Post by **colb** » Wed 03 Oct, 2012 18:52

Back from the Indy £48 lighter for the diagnostic!!

They report "Carry out diagnostic check / interrogate vehicles fault memory for engine management fault. Faults stored for both oxygen sensors/lambda sensors. Air Mass meter fault stored and unable to clear down. Customer advised to replace these in first instance."

Reccomendations:
Front Oxygen Sensor Req £149.22
Rear oxygen Sensor Req £149.22
Air Mass Meter Req £252.50

Well looks like my pattern part MAF may have to be replaced as well as my ebay exhaust sensors, MAF looks like its performing on my software and I have never seen a code for it, one wonders how they got it reported?

The cold start throws up all sorts of codes so I am not 100% convinced the root cause of the cold start problem is showing itself up.

I think I may explore some used parts locally before I shell out on the BMW stuff, as the car runs ok hot and it will be going off the road at the end of this month. I will use the time to play around with the items by substitution to see if I can pinpoint whats wrong with the cold start.
As I understand the engine the exhaust sensors have no influence at cold start and only come into play when warmed up. Could this be pointing me to the MAF?

I will also be flushing the engine with some redx oil flush and maybe run some diesel oil in it to make sure it gets a good internal clean and rules out the sticking valve lifters that have been suggested earler in the thread.

Mentioned this to the Indy who responded with "You can read all sorts of things on forums,doubt its your problem"
We shall see

If anyone is local to me (Newport, South Wales) and has a stash of working bits to try (MAF and Exhaust Sensors) get in touch.

Colb

Dougblack · Post by **Dougblack** » Wed 03 Oct, 2012 18:58

I have a MAF that turned out ok, its used, and missing a grille (from being able to clean), but dosen't give errors and is genuine bosch? Its the vein type one not hot wire... Any use to you??

Del · Post by **Del** » Wed 03 Oct, 2012 19:43

Sorry to hear you are still having problems. You must have the M43 engine (pre and post cat lambdas). It would be very bad luck to have had a bad camshaft position sensor (previously replaced), two bad lambda sensors and a bad MAF.

I would try a cold start with the MAF disconnected so that the ECU goes into default mode. If it's better, then it might be the MAF. If its no better, it tends to point to something else.

If your fuel economy is OK and the car runs and idles smoothly when warmed up - bad lambda sensors don't automatically come to mind. I wonder whether a faulty MAF is "fooling" both the lambdas.

I have been "warned off" cheap, unbranded new MAFs on ebay from unknown sources. I bought a secondhand OE Bosch MAF for my M44 for £15 last year, for a tester/spare, and it works fine. Unfortunately the M44 one is completely different to your M43 one, otherwise I would be happoy for you to test it on yours.

colb · Post by **colb** » Wed 03 Oct, 2012 20:41

Thanks for the responses guys, as Del says I also wonder if the MAF is confusing the exhaust sensors.

Doug, the link at the bottom to OEM shows the MAF fitted to my M43.

The original fitted was Bosh 0 280 217 124 1 433 565 PBT-GF30 is moulded on the outside
Not sure if its a vane or hot wire, all I can describe is that the actual MAF insert when removed from the body by the two screws is it is marked >PBT-GF30< on one side and BOSH 00C 262 029 on the other.
On the PBT GF30 stamped side is a wired resistor attached to two copper terminals, is yours like this?
Inside the unit is a flat metal plate that can be seen through a straight through gap and at the very end of the unit a blanked off at one end gap.

If it is I would be grateful if you could send it to try it out, quite happy to pay postage and return when proved or disproved.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=13&fg=15

Colb

Dougblack · Post by **Dougblack** » Thu 04 Oct, 2012 06:33

Mines an M44, and they are different from the M43

I'd suggest a walk round your local scrappy, see what other bimmers use the M43 and see if you can find one, as said I got an ICV, TPS, MAF and throttle body for 30 notes by doing that... Probably your best bet apart from buying a pucker new one...

colb · Post by **colb** » Thu 04 Oct, 2012 18:28

Doug
OK, thanks for the offer, I will have a look around when I get the chance and see what I can find before going down the BMW OEM route.
Will try and sort it all out before the end of the month when I'm going to SORN it for the winter.

Colb

Del · Post by **Del** » Thu 04 Oct, 2012 19:21

The prices for the new parts quoted by your Indy were a bit on the high side. I rate carparts4less.co.uk which is the internet trading arm of Europarts. Your Bosch MAF is £138 and Bosch lamdas start at around £50.

colb · Post by **colb** » Thu 04 Oct, 2012 20:18

Del
Just had a look at their site, yes a lot cheaper for the Maf and even cheaper for the exhaust sensors and they are all Bosh.
Looks like a bit of spending comming up.

Colb

colb · Post by **colb** » Mon 29 Oct, 2012 20:52

Well bit the bullet and ordered a Bosh Maf from Carparts4les as reccomended by Del.
Ordered saturday and delivered on Monday.
Fitted it tonight and tried a cold start, fired right up and ran fine, no stalling out, tick over nice and smooth, didn't have time to take it for a test run, will try it out tomorrow.

I see laurieh who started this thread fixed his issues with a used Maf as he describes in one of his other threads, looks like we both had duff Mafs, in my case the cheap ebay replacement I first tried worked at first but then went duff for cold starts, once warmed up it ran perfect.

Hopefully my problem is now resolved.

Colb

Del · Post by **Del** » Mon 29 Oct, 2012 22:34

Well done Colb, I bet you were glad to nail that problem. I’m sure your car will run beautifully (and be more reliable going forward) after renewing all those bits.

colb · Post by **colb** » Tue 30 Oct, 2012 18:20

Del
Yes, very glad I got to the root of the problem, lesson learnt about pattern parts, will be using OEM stuff in the future for the important bits.
I am hoping the Fuel Trim codes it was setting were also caused by the bad maf since I replaced both of the lambda sensors with pattern parts, if these arise again I will go for Bosch replacements.
Planning on road test tomorrow before my SORN kicks in.

Over the winter I plan on flushing the engine oil just to make sure the internals are cleaned up (valve lifters) as the car is very low mileage and seems to have had irregular use with its previous owners X2 since new.

Must say thanks to all of those who came up with suggestions for my problems, this forum is the best I have found although I do trawl all the others to see whats going on with other Z3's.

Colb

colb · Post by **colb** » Wed 31 Oct, 2012 22:26

Update following road test, started fine and drove fine, very smooth, no EML so far but did set a P0130 code which I cleared, will see if it comes back before replacing the front exhaust sensor which P0130 identfies as faulty.

Colb