Boot central locking not working

[Keynun]

Hello.

My boot has now stopped locking via the remote central locking. If I lock it via key, the central locking works as it should. It just doesn't function with the remote. The doors both lock fine.

Does anyone have an idea of what needs repairing?

[mr strange]

I would suggest the boot wiring loom as I'm having similar problems with my passenger door.

[Jonco]

Start by looking at boot wiring loom. Have a look at this link to get general idea:

http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... 18&t=34807

Also look at various threads on `passenger door not locking' which is the more usual symptom on wiring failure - depends which cores(if any) are damaged.

[henrycrun]

Can anyone identify the 9(?) loom wires that pass through the boot lid ?

[BladeRunner919]

Not offhand, but you can download the electrical manual from here:

http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm

[Jonco]

Can anyone identify the 9(?) loom wires that pass through the boot lid ?

Look at the link Bladerunner has given or if you have a Haynes Manual - it is a good enough typical just ignore reference to rear doors. I have been trying to decipher my scribbled notes from when I did the repair but they are not accurate enough.

There are 9 in total on pre facelift ( don't know about later) . 2 ( brown and blue/red) go to central brake light. Other 7 are part of the loop circuit - note these include another brown(common).

[BladeRunner919]

They're going to be 3rd brake light, numberplate light, central locking, boot open/closed plunger.

[Robert T]

Well the numberplate light is on the bumper on the non-///M cars, so it won't be that.

As this is such a common problem, I think a knowledgebase article detailing the wire colours and what they are for is in order, as it will help with testing - though pretty much any broken wires in that area is bad news as not only do things stop working, but they can also short to one another and cause some very strange problems.

Edit: I will add it to this article when I get a chance: http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... 18&t=34807

Cheers R.

[BladeRunner919]

Well the numberplate light is on the bumper on the non-///M cars, so it won't be that.

I don't think henrycrun's is a ///M.

[Robert T]

I don't think henrycrun's is a ///M.

None of the cars referred to in this thread are ///M's, so none of them will have wiring for the numberplate lights on the boot lid.

Just checked, and the replacement loom says that it is used on both ///M and non-///M cars, so there might be some unused connections.

Cheers R.

[resunoiz]

had same issue, all working except the trunk lid lock.

but after fixed it, someone has found a solution to avoid other wiring breaks?

[BladeRunner919]

had same issue, all working except the trunk lid lock.

but after fixed it, someone has found a solution to avoid other wiring breaks?

This seems an effective work around:

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=34807

[Southernboy]

....if you hang on a while...Dallantan is about to make a fairly interesting and desirable change to the Z3 boot mechanism...he's planning on fitting an actuator and some different struts etc so that when you want to open the boot, you press the remote, and pop / lift all automatically....obviously it will also combine the locking issue into the changes...but will probably do away with the push button as we know it....might be worth waiting for and doing a full upgrade to an auto opening system....for my part, it's one of the things on a Z3 which is a PITA...I mean opening the boot manually via the push button.

[resunoiz]

had same issue, all working except the trunk lid lock.

but after fixed it, someone has found a solution to avoid other wiring breaks?

This seems an effective work around:

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=34807

already seen this solution, don't like it a lot to see wires "free" in the booth...

[BladeRunner919]

had same issue, all working except the trunk lid lock.

but after fixed it, someone has found a solution to avoid other wiring breaks?

This seems an effective work around:

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=34807

already seen this solution, don't like it a lot to see wires "free" in the booth...

But it's probably the only way to avoid wiring breaks. You could pre-emptively replace the loom with a new one, but the same inherent problem persists.

[TitanTim]

Bit of a Z3 Achilles heel along with 3 series of the same era, it looks like more and more owners are experiencing this problem as the cars are ageing.

I went for a replacement loom earlier in the year on the assumption it's lasted 11 years so will probably last another

I wasn't keen on splicing wires together and potential resultant fire

Tim.

[Keynun]

Hi guys, I checked out the loom in the boot, I did notice a cut in the insulation, but it did not go all the way through and the wiring seemed fine when I stripped it back. I don't actually know what the issue could be, I have a feeling that it is not the wiring as it looked intact and pretty decent still.

Any ideas?

[Robert T]

Right, I have had a good look at the ETM and think I have worked out most of the wiring colours, but as I can only see 9 wires in Dave's photos, and am pretty sure 2 browns were mentioned, I need a little help getting them to add up. This is what I have so far:
[col]1[/col][col].35[/col][col]RT/GN[/col][col]red/green[/col][col]power from fuse F7 (5A) - to boot lock switch[/col][col]2[/col][col]1.5[/col][col]BL/GR[/col][col]blue/grey[/col][col]boot lock motor - from ZKE and joined with other motors[/col][col]3[/col][col]1.5[/col][col]WS[/col][col]white[/col][col]boot lock motor - from ZKE and joined with other motors[/col][col]4[/col][col].5[/col][col]WS/BL[/col][col]white/blue[/col][col]switch unlock position to ZKE[/col][col]5[/col][col].5[/col][col]WS/GN/GE[/col][col]white/green/yellow[/col][col]switch lock position to ZKE[/col][col]6[/col][col].5[/col][col]BR/WS[/col][col]brown/white[/col][col]boot light from fuse F33 (10A) via bulb to switch[/col][col]7[/col][col].75[/col][col]GR/SW[/col][col]grey/black[/col][col]number plate lights from fuse F37 (10A) via light switch to bulb[/col][col]8[/col][col][/col][col]BR[/col][col]brown[/col][col]earth (numberplate lights, boot light, brake light)[/col][col]9[/col][col].75[/col][col]BL/RT[/col][col]blue/red[/col][col]third brakelight supply[/col]

#	Gauge	Codes	Colours	Description

Cheers R.

[Brian H]

Right, I have had a good look at the ETM and think I have worked out most of the wiring colours, but as I can only see 9 wires in Dave's photos, and am pretty sure 2 browns were mentioned, I need a little help getting them to add up.

Cheers R.

Robert,

I have adjusted the chart (well pinched it really ) and grouped them in to the different sections, we do not have a numberplate light in the boot loom on roadsters which was listed as the grey/black, we do have two browns, I am thinking the ETM must be a generic drawing shared with an E36/8 Coupe?

Boot Loom Colours and Functions:
[col][color=#9A9998]1[/color][/col][col][color=#9A9998]1.5[/color][/col][col][color=#9A9998]BL/GR[/color][/col][col][color=#9A9998]blue/grey[/color][/col][col][color=#9A9998]boot lock motor - from ZKE and joined with other motors[/color][/col][col][color=#9A9998]2[/color][/col][col][color=#9A9998]1.5[/color][/col][col][color=#9A9998]WS[/color][/col][col][color=#9A9998]white[/color][/col][col][color=#9A9998]boot lock motor - from ZKE and joined with other motors[/color][/col][col]3[/col][col].35[/col][col]RT/GN[/col][col]red/green[/col][col]boot lock switch - power from fuse F7 (5A)[/col][col]4[/col][col].5[/col][col]WS/BL[/col][col]white/blue[/col][col]boot lock switch unlock position to ZKE[/col][col]5[/col][col].5[/col][col]WS/GN/GE[/col][col]white/green/yellow[/col][col]boot lock switch lock position to ZKE[/col][col][color=#9A9998]6[/color][/col][col][color=#9A9998].5[/color][/col][col][color=#9A9998]BR/WS[/color][/col][col][color=#9A9998]brown/white[/color][/col][col][color=#9A9998]boot light from fuse F33 (10A)[/color][/col][col][color=#9A9998]7[/color][/col][col][color=#9A9998].5[/color][/col][col][color=#9A9998]BR[/color][/col][col][color=#9A9998]brown[/color][/col][col][color=#9A9998]boot light switch earth[/color][/col][col]8[/col][col].5[/col][col]BR[/col][col]brown[/col][col]3rd brake light earth[/col][col]9[/col][col].75[/col][col]BL/RT[/col][col]blue/red[/col][col]3rd brake light supply F46 (15A)[/col]

#	Gauge	Codes	Colours	Description

[Robert T]

Thanks for the update, Brian. All of the above is inferred from what we know is in the boot lid - there is nothing in the ETM that indicates that these are bundled together into a single loom. I avoided putting in anything relating to the coupe. The numberplate lights are shown for "S50 Roadster", and I'm just hunting for a photo of an S50 to check where they sit - I have a few pics of S54's and that has the numberplate light in a little dome on the bumper - for some reason I was thinking there was one either side of the numberplate facing inwards - it might just be sectioned out as they sit in a slightly different place on the car. If the S50 is also a dome on the bumper, then we can ignore the numberplate lights completely.

Cheers R.

[Brian H]

Pic of a S50 rear, from Z3cades journal, thanks numberplate light on the bumper, I had a look in my boot lid this AM and can confirm that they are grouped as above.

[BladeRunner919]

I think the position of the number plate lights may be dependent on territory - eg, the early ///M cars in the USA (S52 rather than S50, of course) had the lights on the bootlid, either side of the plate, rather than on the bumper.

[henrycrun]

If you've not already done so, it might help to cut all of the rubber sleeve and the white braid along the entire moving section of loom.
There may be another break further up.

[henrycrun]

FWIW, I've just repaired the my (5) broken wires.

Carefully cut most of the white braid and rubber off with scissors.
Then slip over heatshrink sleeving, solder the wires and add a few strips of electrical tape to keep the loose wires tidy.

Remove and throw away the U plastic clip (if still fitted to the hinge) which I feel doesn't do anything and may over constrain the loom.
This allows one to rotate the bottom grommet to the 10 o'clock position (when standing behind the car).

Cut a MTB inner tube into a 25mm strip, spiral wrap the loom and fasten with a small cable tie at each end.
It seems to fold better as it is now free to move over the whole length.

I don't think the inner tube will last, but it will be easy to remove and inspect underneath.

[TitanTim]

FWIW, I've just repaired the my (5) broken wires.

Carefully cut most of the white braid and rubber off with scissors.
Then slip over heatshrink sleeving, solder the wires and add a few strips of electrical tape to keep the loose wires tidy.

Remove and throw away the U plastic clip (if still fitted to the hinge) which I feel doesn't do anything and may over constrain the loom.
This allows one to rotate the bottom grommet to the 10 o'clock position (when standing behind the car).

Cut a MTB inner tube into a 25mm strip, spiral wrap the loom and fasten with a small cable tie at each end.
It seems to fold better as it is now free to move over the whole length.

I don't think the inner tube will last, but it will be easy to remove and inspect underneath.

Just be careful Henry you don't trap the loom when closing the boot which is why the retaining clip is fitted.

Tim.