handling improvements?

Warrior · Post by **Warrior** » Sun 02 Feb, 2014 23:14

I thought I'd posted a similar question last year but can't find it so here we go again.

My Zed skips all over the place when the tyres are cold, following every groove, accentuating every bump. When fully warm she runs straight and true but that can be after 10 miles or so in mid summer.

What should be my first expense if I want to improve the handling? I,m running Michelin's all round, worn but legal.

I believe the options to be new tyres, new shockers (?), a bar under the bonnet thingy.

MRTOWERHILL · Post by **MRTOWERHILL** » Sun 02 Feb, 2014 23:33

I have exactly the same problem with mine.
would love to see whats the best solution to this topic.
thanks for posting.

Southernboy · Post by **Southernboy** » Mon 03 Feb, 2014 04:32

.... Commonly referred to as tramlining....There's been any number of posts on the issue. Try a search under "tramlining"...

Del · Post by **Del** » Mon 03 Feb, 2014 08:53

Extremely common complaint on the Z3 - 99% likely to just be down to the type of tyre - Avon ZV5 have cropped up a lot on the forum as a tyre which has eliminated the tramlining. You will find hundreds of threads on this forum about tramlining - some claim success with adjusting tyre pressures and/or fitting polyurethane bushes at the rear of the front lower control arm (aka wishbone).

gookah · Post by **gookah** » Mon 03 Feb, 2014 09:51

The 2 things that most commonly cause this issue:
Front left tyre
Front right tyre

I tried everything to cure it on my first Z3, and it was only changing the tyres that finally cured it.
Poly bushes made mine worse.... and my fillings fell out,
New springs made no difference to it, I thought maybe? because one was broken...
Tyre pressures had no effect, whichever way I altered them
Strut brace, no difference.
New tyres... and it was like having a new car. Went from Pirellis to Avons
Also I don't follow the "bigger wheels cause it" theory cos even now I run 19"x 8.5" front wheels on my current Z3 with no tramlining.

You say that it gets better after being driven for 10 miles and in summer, so the only change can be with the tyre temperatures/pressures. Rear bushes and worn suspension wont make itself better after 10 miles.

fish · Post by **fish** » Mon 03 Feb, 2014 16:56

Same issue with my 2002, 45k, Sport with Mtech suspension....

Was on the web today and was going to order some £336 worth of Poweflex bushes and do the whole car....but you are saying its only down to tyres...?

My tyres are old and going to replace them (lots of tread, but cracking at seven years old)......they are Michelin Pilot and was looking replacing them with Michelin Sport Pilot 3's for about £550.....was going to drop all the front and rear suspension, strip all bushes, power coat all running gear and tart up the diff plate too etc....

Then when all done, track it up and add new tyres etc......

Vic-Z3 · Post by **Vic-Z3** » Mon 03 Feb, 2014 19:04

It's this one again ..................................

The front tyres are the culprits

Go and buy some Falken Ziex ZE912 tyres ....................... Now.

gookah · Post by **gookah** » Mon 03 Feb, 2014 19:13

fish wrote:Same issue with my 2002, 45k, Sport with Mtech suspension....

Was on the web today and was going to order some £336 worth of Poweflex bushes and do the whole car....but you are saying its only down to tyres...?

Just saying what worked, and what didn't work, for me.

I even had the expensive 4 wheel alignment done, with no difference afterwards.
It could also have been down to losing so much weight from my wallet, following 'recommendations'....

fish · Post by **fish** » Mon 03 Feb, 2014 19:16

Vic-Z3 wrote:It's this one again ..................................

The front tyres are the culprits

Go and buy some Falken Ziex ZE912 tyres ....................... Now.

Looks like they have been upgraded? ZIEX ZE914 Ecorun….?

Trevsky · Post by **Trevsky** » Mon 03 Feb, 2014 19:55

Matador Hectorra 2s worked a dream for me. They are Z rated Ultra High Prerformance and cheaper than the rest.

billz · Post by **billz** » Mon 03 Feb, 2014 20:11

I changed and lowered the suspension, altered tyre pressures fitted strut brace and nothing made any difference to the tramlining. I then put conti sport tyres all round and like others have said that sorted the issue.

Vic-Z3 · Post by **Vic-Z3** » Tue 04 Feb, 2014 21:43

http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Falken/ZE912.htm

http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Falken/ZE914.htm

On the percentages the 914's are a winner ...........

Flight · Post by **Flight** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 21:53

Hi all..
Interesting thread. My 3.0i runs well, no tramlining to speak about but the ride is uncomfortable, with 225x50x16" tyres at the recommended pressure of 33psi front and 38psi rear. I have reduced the pressures to 28psi front and 32 rear. There is some improvement, but I think the big problem is body flexing due to having no rigid roof. The body moves before the suspension.
Has anyone else considered this.
cheers
Flight

Riwa · Post by **Riwa** » Fri 25 Apr, 2014 04:34

I also have the 3,0 with hard m-suspension and it used to feel as if the body was flexing over bumps. Two years back I bought the full brace set from strong-strut. Meaning front brace, rear brace and body brace. This makes the cars suspension work more and I hardly ever feel any body flex.

Del · Post by **Del** » Fri 25 Apr, 2014 08:46

Flight wrote:but the ride is uncomfortable

Are you happy that your suspension is in tip-top condition? The newest Z3s are now 11-years old and many are driving around with "tired" suspension which is still capable of limping through the MOT tests. New shocks and drop-links may well help - changing these items transformed my own car's handling.

Flight · Post by **Flight** » Fri 25 Apr, 2014 09:15

Hi Del.
Yes I am certain my car suspension is fine, its total mileage from new is only 34000 miles. All the tyres are new this year, and the car has that tight new feel about it. I can live with this shortcoming but I feel more body stiffness would help.
best wishes
Flight

BladeRunner919 · Post by **BladeRunner919** » Fri 25 Apr, 2014 09:18

Flight wrote:Hi Del.
Yes I am certain my car suspension is fine, its total mileage from new is only 34000 miles.

Mileage is only one factor. Rubber parts degrade over time, not just mileage, so your drop links, bushes etc could well be in need of replacement.

alec.m · Post by **alec.m** » Fri 25 Apr, 2014 10:43

Falken 914s and purple polybushes sorted mine. Did both at the same time so can`t say whether it was tyres or bushes but old bushes were knackered so must have helped.

Mike Fishwick · Post by **Mike Fishwick** » Fri 25 Apr, 2014 12:05

There is no 'Silver Bullet' to stop tramlining - you just need everything to be on top line - anything less and you will have problems, particularly if your tyres have rather stiff sidewalls and are 45/40 profile. My car had Pilot Sports when new, and when I bought it at only 11k it tramlined badly, the problem persisting when new Falkens were fitted, and not going away until I fitted poly wishbone bushes - the bushes were the probem, even at such a low mileage. Perhaps the amount of wheel offset on a Z3 has a bearing on this, as a negative-offset setup such as on a VW Golf does not suffer as badly, even with similar types of bush, as the geometry gives the steering system greater control over the wheels.

However, it is no use to expect poly bushes to compensate for tyres which are worn-out or have inflexible sidewalls, worn ball joints, inaccurate toe-in, and the usual low tyre pressures - I use 2.5 bar all round, which over 14 years I have found to give the best all-round steering and grip combination on 17 inch Falkens.

Tired Old Original Rubber Bush

Sometimes a change of tyre works OK, but then the tyres are generally hiding the cause. The basic problem is usually that of the rubber bushes at the back of the front wishbones, which have large gaps allowing the rear of the wishbone to float around when under cornering loads. This imparts unwanted steering inputs, which are passed off by the media as being 'Scuttle Shake,' the supposed symptom of a weak bodyshell, when it is in fact due to poor selection of suspension bushes, and is easy to cure. BMW test drivers must have been aware of this problem, which was apparrent on even the virtually new cars of their road test fleet, yet it was permitted to continue - so much for the 'Ultimate Driving Machine!'

The M Roadster/M3 uses an almost solid rubber bush, and does not have any probems, polyurethane being at least as good - and in my experience it does not make the ride harsh - the bushes are simply pivots, ride quality being a function of the springs, dampers, and to a lesser degree the tyres. My car still has a good ride quality, and is far more comfortable than an Alpina Roadster S - their take on the Z4.

Powerflex Polyurethane Bush

Why BMW fitted such unsuitable bushes is probably due to the Z3's main buyers being American - who almost by definition canot drive very well, and so need the vague handling these bushes impart. Ideally, the M3-type of bush should have been part of the 17 inch wheel package, but even with 16 inch wheels the problem will eventually occur - and we must remember that our Z3s are now old cars.

However - the question is handling improvements, and since curing the tramlining I have been slowly improving handling, fitting Bilstien dampers, Eibach front springs, Strong-Strut's Butt Strut and Body Brace, with a strut brace, poly ARB bushes, stiffened rear crossmember bushes, E46 strut mounts, EBC Redstuff pads with Zimmermann drilled discs, a smaller RAID airbag steering wheel, and shortened the gear lever by one and a half inches, also replacing the rubber core with body filler - a short shift gear lever for 50 pence! All these additions have improved the overall feel of the car, particularly the steering wheel and gear lever, which feel nice to use even when sitting in the garage.

Warrior · Post by **Warrior** » Fri 25 Apr, 2014 22:36

I should have my refurbished wheels complete with a new set of Falkens by mid week.

I'll report back regarding the handling...

c_w · Post by **c_w** » Sat 26 Apr, 2014 08:53

Mike Fishwick wrote:There is no 'Silver Bullet' to stop tramlining - you just need everything to be on top line - anything less and you will have problems, particularly if your tyres have rather stiff sidewalls and are 45/40 profile. My car had Pilot Sports when new, and when I bought it at only 11k it tramlined badly, the problem persisting when new Falkens were fitted, and not going away until I fitted poly wishbone bushes - the bushes were the probem, even at such a low mileage. Perhaps the amount of wheel offset on a Z3 has a bearing on this, as a negative-offset setup such as on a VW Golf does not suffer as badly, even with similar types of bush, as the geometry gives the steering system greater control over the wheels.

Why BMW fitted such unsuitable bushes is probably due to the Z3's main buyers being American - who almost by definition canot drive very well, and so need the vague handling these bushes impart. Ideally, the M3-type of bush should have been part of the 17 inch wheel package, but even with 16 inch wheels the problem will eventually occur - and we must remember that our Z3s are now old cars.

The standard Z3 wishbone bush is the same as used throughout the E36 range, and a very similar bush is used in the E46 but neither of the saloons suffered the tramlining inherent in the Z3. The stiffer bushes no doubt help reduce it, as do new tyres but they're not the "cause".

Offset isn't unusual on the Z3, at about ET42 front and rear - it's not massively different to a Golf which are normally in the range of ET48 to ET56. Both are positive offsets; it would be unusual to find a road car with a negative offset setup apart from a custom fandango machine, and negative offset would surely create some major tramlining and kick back. Some older widebody Porsche 911s might have spaced ET0 or less though on the rear. My Coupe runs ET13 8.5" front and ET5 10" rear, a fair bit of negative camber on the front due to swap top mounts and no tramlining!

My opinion is that it is related to the structural stiffness of the car, the identically suspended E36 Compact does not suffer from it.

Mike Fishwick · Post by **Mike Fishwick** » Sat 26 Apr, 2014 10:01

We never hear of tramlining from M Roadster owners, but they have the advantage of using an almost solid rubber bush - ask yourselves why. Remember that CW's M Coupe also uses these virtually solid bushes, and does not tramline . . .

With regard to the E36 Compact - a very under-rated car, particularly in its European-market 2.3 litre form, it does not have the same steering rack as a Z3, which is apparently the highest-geared type used in the E36 range, in terms of track rod movement per turn of the wheel. This means that the Z3 steering wheel has less mechanical advantage over the road wheels, a factor which has to be considered when discussing tramlining, as does the rather higher weight of the Compact. It was also fitted with 16 inch wheels carrying narrower-section tyres.

If the problem was due to body flexing it would be uncurable, and all Z3s would suffer from it, yet my car was cured of it - long before I fitted the Strong-Strut bracing pieces - simply by fitting poly bushes, when many of our local roads which used to provoke severe tramlining became simply bumpy roads, with no fight-back through the steering wheel.

As I remarked, it is no use to fit poly bushes to a car which has all manner of other problems - everything must be on top line. For what my experience is worth, the original bushes will always be a cause of tramlining, subject to everything else being good . . . you have only to look at them to see that they will never resist any cornering load transmitted into them from the tyres. While a tyre with a soft sidewall will absorb most of the cornering loads, it is simply hiding the real cause, which will still be obvious in terms of tyre wear.

Gazza · Post by **Gazza** » Sat 26 Apr, 2014 10:11

Mike Fishwick wrote:We never hear of tramlining from M Roadster owners, but they have the advantage of using an almost solid rubber bush - ask yourselves why.

I experienced it for a while, I had Goodyear Eagle F1's on at the time at about 50% wear when it stated tramlining a little. When I replaced the tyres to Michelin PS2's the tramlining disappeared.

I don't think there is a 'one for all' cure, all things mentioned have worked for different people/zeds.

Mike Fishwick · Post by **Mike Fishwick** » Sat 26 Apr, 2014 11:46

Exactly - no 'Silver Bullet' - but can you imagine any manufacturer such as Lotus suppoprting one end of their front suspension on a bush which is 50% air? Even in bygone days such cars as the Austin-Healey Sprite, Austin A40, Triumph Spitfire etc etc used proper pivots at the ends of their front wishbones, rather than the rubbish BMW are passing off these days. Blame the Americans!

Anyway - I think the original question has been comprehensively chewed over, so he should have gained a bit of useful information.

bertiejaffa · Post by **bertiejaffa** » Sat 26 Apr, 2014 12:56

I agree with Mike - I have tramlining in my 2.0l (and not just because I have to drive over the tramlines of east Manchester) but don't have it in my M

Gazza · Post by **Gazza** » Sat 26 Apr, 2014 13:40

What would be interesting is if you changed over front wheels from M to 2.0 to see if the tramlining is still there.

c_w · Post by **c_w** » Sat 26 Apr, 2014 22:13

bertiejaffa wrote:I agree with Mike - I have tramlining in my 2.0l (and not just because I have to drive over the tramlines of east Manchester) but don't have it in my M

What helps with the Z3M over the Z3 is the geometry of the suspension is markedly different too, notable the extra caster which creates a stronger self-centering, and the steering rack on the Z3M is slower (supposedly for higher speed stability) if that does have any impact as Mike suggested. I personally don't think it [steering rack] would as the tramlining is originating at the wheels, the ratio of the rack would just translate that into larger or smaller steering wheel movements. Without tramlining the steering wheel isn't providing a mechanical advantage over the wheels in a straight line, so could be theoretically any ratio IMO.

I fitted Z3M top mounts and stiffer bushes on my old Roadster and it did make a difference (especially the top mounts).

Z3s and tramlining get discussed all the time, The basic facts are that the wishbone bush (and in fact the whole suspension setup) is the same as an E36 that doesn't suffer from tramlining. You can fit stiffer bushes and alter the caster and it does help because both control wheel movement more, but it's trying to fix something inherent in the car.

Flight · Post by **Flight** » Sun 27 Apr, 2014 15:49

Thanks everyone for your advice.
I am relatively new to the Z3 and intend to hopefully improve its handling. I intend to do as Mike has done, and fit the body brace stiffening kit, and poly bushes. I also drive a Lotus, which has impeccable manners, so I have an aiming point.
I have the info on the body kit, but can anyone advise where the poly bushes can be obtained?
Best wished
Flight

alec.m · Post by **alec.m** » Sun 27 Apr, 2014 18:59

Used these people, cheapest (£41.70) I could find and quick delivery.

http://www.powerflexshop.com/car/bmw/z3 ... -1994-2002

Flight · Post by **Flight** » Mon 28 Apr, 2014 08:40

Thanks Alec m. Bushes ordered.
Cheers
Flight

alec.m · Post by **alec.m** » Mon 28 Apr, 2014 08:48

You`re welcome Flight. I hope it improves things, let us know how you get on.

Warrior · Post by **Warrior** » Tue 29 Apr, 2014 11:56

Ok, i've got the wheels back and they are looking extremely good, barring a couple of marks on each valve hole where they've been hung for powder coating.

I can live with 3 of them but one's a touch more ragged, a bit like a stone chip that you can't see without close inspection but know is there.

I'm trying to post a pic but can't do from this computer but will add shortly and welcome your view as to whether i'm being ultra fussy?

deni2s · Post by **deni2s** » Wed 30 Apr, 2014 13:17

I started to experience some minor tramlining on the steering wheel after putting poly bushes at the front. My first thoughts were that it might be unbalanced tires or even bad braking disk rotor. But then I realised that I am just driving on some bumpy section of the road, and after installing poly bushes everything got stiffer so that I could feel the bumps in my hands through steering wheel. Before installing poly bushes I didn't even realised that that part of road is not very good. On good road - no problems at all.

So it might be that poly bushes even increase tramlining depending on source of problem.

siwilson · Post by **siwilson** » Wed 30 Apr, 2014 14:05

Perhaps its worth considering what is actually happening when the car appears to 'tramline'. Tramlining feels like the car is steering itself, so what causes that?

1. It could be that at that moment one front tyre has more grip than the other. When that tyres decides to follow a line or undulation in the road, the other doesn't have enough GRIP to resist it and 'off you go'. I have had this in the past. Then it was due to two very old Continental tyres on the front. Still loads of tread, but old because I don't do many miles and hard 'dead rubber' as a result. Replace with new Eagle F1 and the problem went away. No new stock bushes or new poly bushes, just new rubber. Now the Eagles are a few years old the problem sometimes occurs when the tyres are cold. In fact, if I haven't driven the car for a week or so the tyres can feel like 50p pieces. A mile or so down the road, everything has warmed up and life is good. I confirmed this because the main road by my house is truly shocking. When I first go out I get tram lining, when on my way home I get nothing. The only difference is warm tyres.Its also worth noting that most UK cars are shod with summer tyres that don't work as well on cold conditions. Do you experience tramlining more when its cold?

2. It could be that the wheel alignment is actually changing. One wheel finds a line in the road and tries to follow, the tired or weak suspension bush is not man enough to resist and you end up with a temporary toe in or toe out situation pulling the car. This could also happen with a bad steering rack, ball joint or track rod end.

3. Maybe you have one or more tired shocks. A poorly performing shock can cause the tyre to oscillate over even small bumps, reducing grip. Reduce GRIP one side and not the other and 'off you go'.

Food for thought!

alec.m · Post by **alec.m** » Wed 30 Apr, 2014 14:08

deni2s wrote:I started to experience some minor tramlining on the steering wheel after putting poly bushes at the front. My first thoughts were that it might be unbalanced tires or even bad braking disk rotor. But then I realised that I am just driving on some bumpy section of the road, and after installing poly bushes everything got stiffer so that I could feel the bumps in my hands through steering wheel. Before installing poly bushes I didn't even realised that that part of road is not very good. On good road - no problems at all.

So it might be that poly bushes even increase tramlining depending on source of problem.

Did you have your tracking done after putting new bushes in? Mine was a mile out and was terrible to drive until I had it done.

gookah · Post by **gookah** » Wed 30 Apr, 2014 15:56

siwilson wrote: When I first go out I get tram lining, when on my way home I get nothing. The only difference is warm tyres.

and.....
being on the other side of the road,
going in the other direction,
with an opposite camber

gookah · Post by **gookah** » Wed 30 Apr, 2014 16:03

alec.m wrote:
deni2s wrote:I started to experience some minor tramlining on the steering wheel after putting poly bushes at the front. My first thoughts were that it might be unbalanced tires or even bad braking disk rotor. But then I realised that I am just driving on some bumpy section of the road, and after installing poly bushes everything got stiffer so that I could feel the bumps in my hands through steering wheel. Before installing poly bushes I didn't even realised that that part of road is not very good. On good road - no problems at all.

So it might be that poly bushes even increase tramlining depending on source of problem.
Did you have your tracking done after putting new bushes in? Mine was a mile out and was terrible to drive until I had it done.

I experienced the same after fitting poly bushes to a previous Z3, the crashiness increased though the car, and my tramling felt more exaggerated even with 4 wheel alignment done.
My cure was solely tyres.
My car at the moment is on its original bushes with 19 inch wheels and no tramlining, go figure..

siwilson · Post by **siwilson** » Wed 30 Apr, 2014 16:04

gookah wrote:
siwilson wrote: When I first go out I get tram lining, when on my way home I get nothing. The only difference is warm tyres.
and.....
being on the other side of the road,
going in the other direction,
with an opposite camber

Who said I haven't driven the same piece of road in the same direction twice in a day just for fun

gookah · Post by **gookah** » Wed 30 Apr, 2014 16:11

Warrior wrote:I should have my refurbished wheels complete with a new set of Falkens by mid week.

Warrior wrote:Ok, i've got the wheels back and they are looking extremely good, barring a couple of marks on each valve hole where they've been hung for powder coating.

I can live with 3 of them but one's a touch more ragged, a bit like a stone chip that you can't see without close inspection but know is there.

I'm trying to post a pic but can't do from this computer but will add shortly and welcome your view as to whether i'm being ultra fussy?

and the bit we are all waiting for:

Warrior wrote:I'll report back regarding the handling...

gookah · Post by **gookah** » Wed 30 Apr, 2014 16:12

siwilson wrote: Who said I haven't driven the same piece of road in the same direction twice in a day just for fun

you did....

Del · Post by **Del** » Wed 30 Apr, 2014 16:20

I agree with Gookah. The non-M Z3s are prone to tramlining - I have read contemporary motoring reviews suggesting as much when they were new. Whilst other things can no doubt make it worse, tyres seem to be the biggest culprit - also some drivers seem more sensitive to it (I am) whereas others using the car daily get used to it. We've recently switched the fronts to Uniroyal Rainsport and the tramlining virtually disappeared.

Warrior · Post by **Warrior** » Wed 30 Apr, 2014 22:21

gookah wrote:
Warrior wrote:I should have my refurbished wheels complete with a new set of Falkens by mid week.

Warrior wrote:Ok, i've got the wheels back and they are looking extremely good, barring a couple of marks on each valve hole where they've been hung for powder coating.

I can live with 3 of them but one's a touch more ragged, a bit like a stone chip that you can't see without close inspection but know is there.

I'm trying to post a pic but can't do from this computer but will add shortly and welcome your view as to whether i'm being ultra fussy?

and the bit we are all waiting for:
Warrior wrote:I'll report back regarding the handling...

'Patience Grasshopper'.....i'm taking the opportunity to clean under the arches, have bought some nice new shiny nuts which only arrived today and she needs a bit of 'wax on wax off'. The car that is, not the missus

If the sun rises in the East and sets in the West without the heavens opening I should be fully booted by tomorrow. Put the rears on tonight under floodlight but was tempted to pack up early by 2 pork chops, white cabbage and new potatoes. All to help with the weight distribution on the first test run you understand

TWO · Post by **TWO** » Wed 30 Apr, 2014 22:30

Warrior wrote:
gookah wrote:
Warrior wrote:I should have my refurbished wheels complete with a new set of Falkens by mid week.

Warrior wrote:Ok, i've got the wheels back and they are looking extremely good, barring a couple of marks on each valve hole where they've been hung for powder coating.

I can live with 3 of them but one's a touch more ragged, a bit like a stone chip that you can't see without close inspection but know is there.

I'm trying to post a pic but can't do from this computer but will add shortly and welcome your view as to whether i'm being ultra fussy?

and the bit we are all waiting for:
Warrior wrote:I'll report back regarding the handling...

'Patience Grasshopper'.....i'm taking the opportunity to clean under the arches, have bought some nice new shiny nuts which only arrived today and she needs a bit of 'wax on wax off'. The car that is, not the missus If the sun rises in the East and sets in the West without the heavens opening I should be fully booted by tomorrow. Put the rears on tonight under floodlight but was tempted to pack up early by 2 pork chops, white cabbage and new potatoes. All to help with the weight distribution on the first test run you understand

I'm in no hurry to see pics of yer 'shiny nuts'

..........look forward forward to seeing the wheels on the Zed

Flight · Post by **Flight** » Thu 01 May, 2014 09:00

Hi All.
I have fitted my poly bushes to my car OK. However, when I ordered them I had the choice of "concentric, or Eccentric" bushes. I plumped for concentric. The question I have, is why are eccentric bushes an option? I understand what effect the eccentricity would have, but surely these cars don't require eccentric bushes for accurate alignment.
Cheers
Flight

alec.m · Post by **alec.m** » Thu 01 May, 2014 12:38

From their website ......."PFF5-303 is an eccentric bush for the M Series or where increased caster is required". Hope this explains it for you.

Flight · Post by **Flight** » Thu 01 May, 2014 20:46

Thanks Alec, and everyone.
I am reasonably happy with my car now. Just two items for attention, firstly the clutch pick up is very high up on the pedal travel possibly worn plate? and the accelerator pedal has too much travel before the revs pick up. Together it is a bad combination for stalling. Anyone any ideas?
Thanks again
Flight

bertiejaffa · Post by **bertiejaffa** » Thu 01 May, 2014 20:51

Flight wrote:Thanks Alec, and everyone.
I am reasonably happy with my car now. Just two items for attention, firstly the clutch pick up is very high up on the pedal travel possibly worn plate? and the accelerator pedal has too much travel before the revs pick up. Together it is a bad combination for stalling. Anyone any ideas?
Thanks again
Flight

Throttle cable can be tightened but can easily be replaced as they stretch - I did mine at the weekend, £20 from BMW and took 20 mins - much better

c_w · Post by **c_w** » Fri 02 May, 2014 22:47

Flight wrote:Hi All.
I have fitted my poly bushes to my car OK. However, when I ordered them I had the choice of "concentric, or Eccentric" bushes. I plumped for concentric. The question I have, is why are eccentric bushes an option? I understand what effect the eccentricity would have, but surely these cars don't require eccentric bushes for accurate alignment.
Cheers
Flight

Early E36 M3 used eccentric bushes. The Z3M usings concetric/central bushes, just stiffer than the non-M. It wouldn't have been a bad idea to try the eccentric as more caster = more steering centring and control.

Warrior · Post by **Warrior** » Sat 03 May, 2014 16:36

Wow, what a difference!

From my house to my work unit is about half a mile and it's a good first test for the new tyres as traditionally this was when zeddie hopped all over the place. Nows she's straight as an arrow.

I'm wondering what i've been driving for the past 3 years as the previous set up was exciting and i'd go as far as saying dangerous on occasions. Overtaking a lorry on a narrow dual carriageway for example was always a two hands on the wheel job.

An added bonus is the road noise is markedly reduced..............after I pulled over to take the new stickers off the tyres....doh!

For the record...Falken Ziex ZE914's all round 225/45/94W 17's on the front 245/40/91W 17's on the rear...

fish · Post by **fish** » Sat 03 May, 2014 19:50

http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... 32&t=39924

Just got car MOT'ed after SORN since last Sep…..45k 2.2…I did about an 8 week mini refurb on it…Just been out today and it feels spot on -

New Meyle HD wishbone kit (inc lolly pop bushes)
New front and rear anti roll bar rubbers
New ATE Discs (OEM supplier), New Textar brake pads (OEM supplier), New ATE brake rubbers, Hel brake lines and G2 paint on calipers (self refurb)
New drop links front & rear
4 Continental Sport Contact 5 tyres
1 x DSC/ASC cable (faulty)
Kwik fit 4 wheel alignment, as wide bodied Z3 could not be done at Hi-Q with their basic tracking
Nitrogen gas in tyres

Was tramlining before with worn 6 year old Michelin Sport 3 (loads of tread, but sidewalls cracking), bushes were collapsing. Nice and tight now, flew the MOT, the guys there loved it -