BMW Z3 2.2 M Sport upgrades advice

Fawdy · Post by **Fawdy** » Wed 23 Apr, 2014 19:36

Hi all,

I'm thinking of some upgrades to my Zed, however before I invest in parts etc I thought I'd get your advice.

The conflict I have is personally I do avoid cars that have been "modified or tampered with" (so much so I avoided cars with aftermarket head units) so can't decide if the below should be done, or I should go with simple restoration (powder coat wheels and respray the bumper and remove the small dent in the door).

Angel headlights.
I've found some on eBay £229 for some projector style head lights in RHD. I need to check if they are plug and play but if they are they would look awesome and would help lift the look. Certainly I'm not bothered about making them DRL so hopefully wouldn't need to chop the wiring loom.

Anyone recommend these or should I stay with the originals ? I won't buy them if they need to be chopped in to the wiring loom as I may go back to the originals.

eBay item number 151173910280

Maintenance.
Gearbox fluid/ clutch fluid/ brake fluid / power steering fluid / air con gas.
The previous owner has had the engine oil changed but wondering if I should get the above changed? My car has covered 92k. I've not tried the aircon since having the car as being a soft top I don't really see the point, however think it should work and would need a re gas anyway. The clutch and gear box feel ok but they are not silky smooth hence I may have the fluids changed.

Air filter
I see some have the air filters replaced? Does this make any real difference ?

Replace the rear window
I won't tackle this at home, and to be honest money wise I'd probably wait till next year now as it's ok but not brilliant.
Powder coating wheels
I definitely need to have the wheels sorted as they have corroded badly on the insides and think powder coating is the way forward but will be sticking to the manufacturers colour. I'm considering using the guys in Nottingham (the wheel specialist) but the price is putting me off as they quoted £380 to strip, coat and refit. Anyone else used them or know anywhere that is good ? I'm really obsessive over the finish and want them to be as perfect as possible.

Any advice on the above would be cool! People or garages to use or parts / upgrades to avoid.

Fawdy

Southernboy · Post by **Southernboy** » Wed 23 Apr, 2014 19:45

Air filter / oil changes / fluid changes can all be DIY items... The zip in OEM window is sometimes tricky, but many members have done it themselves... Wheels obviously need to be done professionally... So, the "maintenance" you're considering can't be considered upgrades... just maintenance...and good maintenance at that...

Fawdy · Post by **Fawdy** » Wed 23 Apr, 2014 19:58

Thanks, I've never actually changed any fluids before and don't have access to a ramp otherwise I'd have a go. Hence thought it may be simpler to have a garage do it? I'm pretty good at DIY, as I have already replaced all the interior bulbs including the ones behind the air controls ! Nightmare !! Plus I've replaced the gear knob and taken the door cards off to lube the windows as they wouldn't move.

The car is feeling much better now hence I want to move on to the next bits.

Would you suggest having ago ? I would also like to address the hand brake also as it doesn't pull on evenly and is way too tight (one click on is the maximum). The last owner had all the pads renewed so suspect the cables aren't right or just poorly fitted.

Southernboy · Post by **Southernboy** » Wed 23 Apr, 2014 20:11

Fluid changes can be done by using the car jack... you don't need a ramp. The handbrake adjustments are made under the handbrake gaitor... just unclip it, and you will see the 2 cables for left and right side... Suggest you first determine which of the sides is the one doing the braking more, and slacken off that cable a bit and then re-check the balance of the 2 sides... and continue until you are satisfied... 3 clicks is the sugested setting when the lever is lifted..
Oil changes are easy.. you need to heat up the engine so the old oil thins a tad... then jack up the driver side, and get under and remove the drain plug on the sump... You'll need a tub that will hold at least 7 liters. While it's draining, remove the oil filler cap in the engine bay, and finally, once the oil seems mostly drained, remove the oil filter top to access the oil filter... obviously you'll need replacement oil filter and new oil... Leave the oil draining for an hour or so... it'll keep dripping, and you want to get as much of the old oil out... so the longer the better...
Replace the oil drain plug, lower the car, replace the oil filter and screw the cap back on... then re-fill with new oil to the correct specs.. replace filler cap... oil change done !
Air filter is easier... open air filter housing, lift out old air filter, pop in new one and cloe up... Brakes, clutch and power steering fluids are more tricky, and unless you are aware of all the vagaries, I'd recommend you use a pro to do them for you...

g8jka · Post by **g8jka** » Wed 23 Apr, 2014 20:26

Fawdy wrote: Powder coating wheels
I definitely need to have the wheels sorted as they have corroded badly on the insides and think powder coating is the way forward but will be sticking to the manufacturers colour. I'm considering using the guys in Nottingham (the wheel specialist) but the price is putting me off as they quoted £380 to strip, coat and refit. Anyone else used them or know anywhere that is good ? I'm really obsessive over the finish and want them to be as perfect as possible.

Where are you based, if its midlands I used city powder coaters in Birmingham for powder coating the wheels. At the price you won't go wrong, they chemically strip, sand blast, remove and repair any marks, then powder coat and bake and refit the tyres. All for £30 a wheel. You need to leave them there for around 5 days as they get very busy or their one day service costs £45 a wheel.

See my journal for some pictures.

BladeRunner919 · Post by **BladeRunner919** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 06:56

Southernboy wrote:Fluid changes can be done by using the car jack...

...but never, ever put any body parts under the car when it's only supported by a jack, especially the supplied one. If you want to reach underneath and don't have stands, etc, I'd suggest driving the car up onto a few stacked planks of wood or some concrete blocks.

Southernboy · Post by **Southernboy** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 06:59

..... yes Blades... A jack stand is a must...What I meant was ramps aren't necessary... but correctly... don't rely on a jack for stability or safety on it's own..

BladeRunner919 · Post by **BladeRunner919** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 07:21

Southernboy wrote:..... yes Blades... A jack stand is a must...What I meant was ramps aren't necessary... but correctly... don't rely on a jack for stability or safety on it's own..

I knew that you knew that, but just in case someone read your post and took it the wrong way...

mwpe · Post by **mwpe** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 07:45

As far as the handbrake is concerned, the pads have nothing to do with the handbrake. The handbrake operates using small brake shoes which are inside the drum which is part of the rear discs. All BMWs use this system and it is quite good. To adjust you jack up the rear wheel, remove one wheel nut and rotate the wheel until you can see the knurled adjuster through the hole. I always find it easier to remove the wheel. Turn thr adjuster until the brake binds and then back off a few clicks. After this you can ajust the cables as previously recommended. I wouldn't racommend doing this with the factory supplied jack but you can always jack up with this and then lower onto a wooden block on a hard point like the ear subframe mounting.

Silverlady · Post by **Silverlady** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 09:02

Hi Fawdey ! On the subject of air filters, I would just like to suggest that if you're retaining the standard airbox, buy a K & N replacement panel filter. It may cost 3 times as much, but it will last forever and you will definitely feel the difference in driveability. ( I have tried running my 2.2 on a 57i system which does away with the standard airbox assembly, but the ECU really took its time in 'learning' mixture settings and the car became quite a lot thirstier. But there was noticeably more power (and noise) to be had at higher rpm at the expense of low speed smoothness. You rarely get something for nothing, but you won't regret the K&N.....

Fawdy · Post by **Fawdy** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 15:11

Thank you Southernboy, handbrake fully adjusted !

Silverlady, I will definitely follow the K&N advice as I would prefer to keep the box.

Jobs left.
Wheel Powder Coating
Investigate the Angel Eye Head Lights (plug and play?)
Remove door dent (Very small but I keep noticing it, after the Italy road trip, I'm sure it may pick up a couple more)
Respray the front bumper (after its summer road trip)
replace rear window (this will be a next year job)
Investigate how much the garage will charge for Complete Fluid change (inc gearbox, clutch, brake and steering) Engine oil is brand new anyway. Also Re gas Air con

Its getting there and already feels a totally different car !
Jobs Completed
Terracleaned Engine Service
Drivers window Mech Lube and replace
New Gear Knob (BMW OEM)
tried LED Interior Light .... swapped back to OEM as it blew the fuse.
Replaced all blown bulbs behind air control unit and headlamp switch
Re proof the roof with Autoglym
Machine polished the whole car, and dressed it with Poorboys Black Hole Glaze
Machine polished the wheels inside and out and dressed them with poor boys wheel seal (Corrosion on the inner rim was worst than I thought hence they will need a powder coat)
Cleaned Leather seats and full Int clean
Replace the rubber stopper on the petrol cap
clear blockage on filler cap drain
Handbrake Adjusted
replace both rear tyres as they didn't match (OCD kicks in)

I know it will never be a finished project and there is always something else to do but at least I know its running at its best and looks as well as it could do. For 14 years of age it turns heads where ever it goes and I heard a young lad turn to his mate in a car park and said "Look at that BMW, thats looks awesome !" which made me smile !

I don't know of any other car at this price point that could offer, great looks, good build quality, decent handling and bring a massive smile to your face when you hear that 6 cylinder engine note under load ! maybe an M3??

beerbelly · Post by **beerbelly** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 15:43

personally I wouldn't use any oiled air filter ie k+n ect as if you over oil the filter by even a small amount it can coat the maf and cause other problems the oe type filter from a local auto parts type store is very cheap and does an excellent job .and you will get no noticeable gain in power with a k+n panel filter. by the way your car looks great black certainly suits the z3

BladeRunner919 · Post by **BladeRunner919** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 15:48

Fawdy wrote:Poorboys Black Hole Glaze

Tell me about this product, please?

Fawdy wrote: replace both rear tyres as they didn't match (OCD kicks in)

That's not ocd, it's good sense. You don't want mismatched tyres across an axle.

Southernboy · Post by **Southernboy** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 16:18

..... Blades.... just bend over in front of a mirror.....

Southernboy · Post by **Southernboy** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 16:22

..... Easy to do the handbrake...You could do the "take the wheel off" bit, but generally the cause is at the cable end. People tend to take the easy way when shortening the lever lift, and that's where they do it...So, you may find the previous owner did it there to begin with...

Mike Fishwick · Post by **Mike Fishwick** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 16:48

I would never fit a K&N filter to anything! There is lots of information on the internet about them, but the basics are:

(a) The BMW filter works on a 3.2 litre M3 engine, so it is more than adequate for a 2.2 litre.

(b) The BMW filter, when unfolded, has surface area five times that of the equivalent K&N, and only slightly less air flow when both filters are new.

(c) This means that when partly soiled the flow rate of the smaller area (K&N) filter will fall to a greater degree than the larger area filter (BMW).

(d) The combination of a slightly higher clean flow rate, and a much smaller surface area means that the K&N filter has a lower filtration rate - particularly when the oil (the fine filtering medium - without it you can see through a K&N filter!) has been sucked into the engine, a process which does not take long.

(e) Analysis of sump oil after prolonged use with a K&N shows a very high level of silicate particles, which being very hard will cause wear of bores, chains, seals, and bearings.

As the original filter is more than adequate for our engines, a K&N will not 'liberate' additional horsepower, and will promote increased wear rates in the long term. Any increased power is at the imagination of the user, many of whom confuse noise with power.

K&N filters of standard size do not make any additional noise due to their enclosure in the airbox, but the so-called 'Induction Kit' type - which do not use the OE airbox - make a lot of induction noise, which is the real reason people fit them, a factor which is only an attraction to the immature or the deaf . . . . As for Simota-like ram air filters, they are an expensive comedy act, for there will be no ram effect unless the large intake mouth is presented directly to the approaching airflow at the front of the car - they are a fashion accessory.

If you want to improve the induction system, make a good cold air inlet pipe, as the basic route for the incoming air supply to the air box is very poor - see my bit on this subject in the Z3 Knowledgebase.

As for new headlamps, unless you really HAVE to have Angel Eye parking lamps, these headlamps will not give much improvement, as the standard Z3 lights are very good - given a decent battery, a healthy charging system, and good modern bulbs - but not the mickey mouse trash sold on Ebay and by Halfords - buy the latest products of Osram or Philips, as no-one else makes anything worth fitting.

Now wait for the howls of protest . . .

akirk · Post by **akirk** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 18:53

Mike Fishwick wrote:As the original filter is more than adequate for our engines, a K&N will not 'liberate' additional horsepower, and will promote increased wear rates in the long term. Any increased power is at the imagination of the user, many of whom confuse noise with power.

Surely it is not about adding horsepower - but about blocking / reducing by less...
ultimately the more effective a filter at filtering the more it will reduce airflow and therefore presumably throttle down the BHP?
I would assume it is about a balance between maximising what you filter out and minimising the obstruction... and K&N (rightly or wrongly claim to have a better balance...)

I have a K&N sitting in the kitchen, so am looking forward to putting it in - ran them on my 5ltr RR classic without any issues and that was a highly tuned and chipped hand built engine - and probably less solid than the BMW engine!

K&N also provide a 1,000,000 mile warranty - so risk should be low...

Alasdair

bertiejaffa · Post by **bertiejaffa** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 19:18

I have a K&N fitted to my A5 and a BMC fitted to my 2.0l Z3. Both of which I have had no issues with.

My Z3M still has the OEM kit on it but I am considering other alternatives and open to advise - I am particularly interested in Mike's comments about the Simota solution. A lot of people on here seem to have gone for this choice - are you saying there is no increase in performance at all with the Simota induction kit? Even as the M has air intake options in the front bumper?

David · Post by **David** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 19:32

I recently changed my headlights to the angel eye projectors that you've asked about, and Mike has questioned.

I can tell you that I absolutely love this addition. Not only does it - in my opinion - improve the look of the front end, but they also improve night time driving ten-fold. They have a great cut-off on the dipped beam, and an extremely wide and long range on full beam.

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Woody1000 · Post by **Woody1000** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 20:08

These thread topics are both interesting and comical as we all have varied views on noise, performance and cosmetics !! There is so much knowledge on here it's fantastic I love it.

Southernboy · Post by **Southernboy** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 20:12

There is no truth in the widely held belief that cold air intakes increase horsepower... also, the power increase is negligible between an OEM filter and any other filter... The only difference is how well the filter works as a filter.... to get more air into the system, it needs to be forced in via a turbo or super charger... You will get improved power and performance by gas flowing the head, and changing the camshafts...also by reprogramming the ecu and or adding a chip to suit the changes in the cams etc.
The myth of the cold air intake has been debunked professionally...the idea that colder air is denser is true, but on your Z3 there is a heating system which controls the air temp entering the intake, so it is pointless imagining that cold air is being taken in... On the older Z3's this heating is provided by the hot water from the cooling system which is routed via the throttle body... on later Z3's the task is performed electronically...
The options are upgrading the cylinder head and forced induction... Other than that you're going to have a nice noise but it's about as effective as racing stripes...
But don't take my word for it... google "COLD AIR INTAKE POWER INCREASE"... and get over the dreams... but still get a Simota or whatever and enjoy the noise... it is more appealing than OEM for some people...
Chipping doesn't add horsepower on it's own...what it does is re-distributes the power to a different and preferential area... ie. if you want low down acceleration vs top end speed... you can reprogramme to achieve this... the overall power output of the motor remains constant. The older e30's had a "power spike" at around 3000rpm... one would have a sudden spurt of acceleration... this was achieved by the ecu... at 3000 rpm, the ecu provided a burst of extra fuel to the injectors, opened the intake valves for a split second longer and increased the combustion in a burst of what was quite exhilirating acceleration up to around 4500 rpm.. then it all went back to "normal"...
You want more power you have to improve the output and that requires altering the mechanics...

Fawdy · Post by **Fawdy** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 20:32

Holy cow that's some discussion on filters. I may stick with the OEM version for now.

The Poorboys Black hole glaze I use does make the paint work look lovely ! It's not a long term product but then this is not a daily driver so its ideal.

For me poorboys glazes are really good as they leave the paintwork swirl free and has a wet look finish. I'd only recommend black hole glaze for dark or red cars. They do a light glaze for white and silver.

The wheel seal from poor boys is also awesome, I always whip the wheels off and polish the inner rims as this stops brake dust build up and if used with a machine you can really leave the surface super slippery. Also the wheels look so much nicer when they are polished inside and out.

I spent two years as a valeter at BMW and Merc so my standards are quiet high...

I go through real phases with valeting product, I mostly use trade autoglym (radiant polish) but when it comes to top coat glazes the autoglym products are simply hard work... I'm really not a fan of retail products such as hi def wax.

My humble opinion would be, clay bar the paint with fast shine lube removing any contamination and preparing the surface to bond the polish too, wash the car again to remove the residue, polish with radiant wax, then top coat with a glaze (in this case Poorboys). I tend to leave the glaze until the last minute
then buff off to leave a perfect finish every time.

I may not know so much with upgrades, but I do know how to detail paintwork!

Del · Post by **Del** » Thu 24 Apr, 2014 20:34

Must admit I haven't seen any independent confirmation that K&N filters (panel or other) increase an engine's power. Without increasing the diameter of the MAF and/or increasing the throttle body and/or exhaust, I don't see how the engine could breathe significantly more easier. However, I wouldn't belittle the sportier noise, as manufacturers like Ferrari invest a lot of time/money into creating an attractive exhaust note.

The original poster suggested funds were restricted and so my own personal view would be to initially focus on servicing (as mentioned) and renovation (14-year old car) e.g. if your shock absorbers are still the originals, they will be very tired after 92K miles and you will notice a huge improvement by replacing. Any original water pump will be close to the end of its life and the belt tensioner is likely to be rattling like a roller skate when spun by hand.

Angle eyes look fine, if funds are restricted I can confirm that the Phillips Blue Vision sidelight and main bulbs give a very nice, crisp, more contemporary, whiter light for relatively low expenditure.

siwilson · Post by **siwilson** » Fri 25 Apr, 2014 07:30

A member with an S54 M did some back to back tests many years ago and found the stock air filter delivered the best results.

If you're looking for ideas on what to do then take a look at Yalden's Cosmos black 2.0. One of the most tastefully modded Z3 I have seen.

Mike Fishwick · Post by **Mike Fishwick** » Fri 25 Apr, 2014 07:45

Where does Southernboy get the idea that 'there is a heating system which controls the air temp entering the intake?' Heating is provided to prevent the throttle from sticking due to ice formation in some markets, not to control the temperature of the intake air. Perhaps the South African market has peculiar demands, but I doubt it. In any case, to do so would require a heat exchanger of equivalent size to an intercooler!

Likewise, where does he get the idea that an old E30 ECU 'opened the intake valves for a split second longer' which was impossible, as such camshaft control did not then exist! He also gives the impression that the E30 was capable of being remapped, but as it used a Bosch LE Jetronic system it was an analogue system, and incapable of even being re-chipped, never mind taking a digital code!

As for his claim that 'Chipping doesn't add horsepower on it's own' - has Southernboy ever examined the many graphs showing torque and power before and after remapping? Any decent remapping (or in the pre-EEPROM days, rechipping) procedure will - even on an unblown petrol engine - increase both torque and power curves over most of the rev range, with a typical increase of around 10% at peak rpm, and a proportionately greater increase in the mid range - at around the full torque rpm. The rationale is simple - the manufacturer finds the optimum ignition timing and fuel delivery settings, but then has to degrade them in order to reduce both CO and NO exhaust emissions for type approval acceptance. In the after market these can be partially reset, as NO levels are not checked during periodic roadworthiness (MoT etc) testing, so moving the engine closer to its original optimum condition.

The idea of having what is known as a Cold Air Intake is really that of improving the intake path, as the normal Z3 intake requires the air to stop and reverse direction a couple of times, then find its way through a convoluted and cramped path around the LH headlamp, losing flow rate as it goes. By providing a direct route to the air box these losses are eliminated, and engine's output is hopefully brought closer to its rated figure. In terms of driver-perceived improvement at small throttle openings it is minimal, but certainly exists. At higher throttle openings the improvement will be greater, but is more difficult to quantify. In return for an outlay of £3 at B&Q one cannot complain, whatever the result.

We are supposed to be discussing the Z3 here - not the M Roadster, but yes - the M Roadster does have an air feed from the front apron's LH 'mouth,' but this is not what it seems. The air scoop feeds into a short tube behind the headlamp (which is blanked off on the Z3) before finding its way more or less directly into the airbox. The problem is that this tube has a bore of about 50 mm, which is a lot less than the entry tothe airbox and the airflow sensor bore etc of any Z3 - so even this is capable of a large improvement if re-engineered properly - is it poor design or a means of reducing engine output? I enlarged this pipe as as the route for my 70 mm inlet pipe.

The various comments on the Internet regarding these air inlets all agree on one thing - that any improvement will either increase power or increase mpg - but not both at the same time! If the airflow can be improved, it is a good thing, but the result is down to the driver's right foot.

On the subject of K&N filters, I did not mention the matter of filter oil fouling the airflow sensor wire, which the manufacturer claims is not due to their filter, but to over-oiling by owners. There are, however, many reputable tuners in the BMW and VW world who will not fit a K&N for this very reason.

And yes - a projector dip beam headlamp (as used in 'Angel Eye' type units) does have a very sharp cut-off, even when fitted with the poor quailty bulbs which are invariably supplied with them or fitted by owners, but a high-quality modern bulb such as Philips Xtreme Vision will produce a similarly sharp cut-off from a standard Z3 headlamp, and a very white, wide beam - subject to a good battery and charging system.

Many owners forget that a halogen bulb has a useful life of about five years, after which performance falls noticeably - and most Z3s are now 12-14 years old. BMW seem to use decent cable, which does not suffer badly from voltage drops even when old, but some previous owners may have fited 'Longlife' bulbs, which are compromised for lifespan at the expense of light output - on such cars a change to the best from Philips or Osram will work a miracle.

I am still using the relatively old Philips Blue Vision bulbs, and my headlamps are excellent, apart from my usual requirement for even longer range on our unlit and deserted country roads, to pick out the artfully-camoflaged wild boars! I suspect most people fit 'Angel Eye' etc headlamps in order to have a more powerful HID dipped beam and/or to look different, but it is of very doubtful value, as the additional power of the HID beam cannot be used to provide greater range than is possible with a legally-adjusted dipped beam.

Another thing to remember - apart from the seldom-invoked legality issue of HID lights - is that HID now represents old technology, and in a year or so we will have a choice of similar headlamps fitted with purpose-designed LED sources, which will use less power, have a better beam, and not use high voltage inverters. HID lights will then be almost given away . . .

beerbelly · Post by **beerbelly** » Fri 25 Apr, 2014 15:59

crikey its not hard to open a can of worms on here is it

Southernboy · Post by **Southernboy** » Fri 25 Apr, 2014 17:07

Mike... thanks for your enlightening response... As you say, the heating system is there to prevent icing of the throttle... that's why any air passing through there is heated by the system... The reason for the heating is of no consequence here... the fact is - the air is heated... which in turn negates the CAI concept.
I'll concede the Jettronic system could not have the controls as does the newer Vanos systems... But without doubt, there was a power spike on the e30's...however it was achieved...
Chipping cannot increase overall power output of a motor... it can only re-allocate the power to another area... The only way chipping can in any way increase power is by controlling the ammount of fuel and air which is taken into each chamber. The benefits are moot... a few HP for a largely increased fuel consumption... Further, the point at which this increase takes place - either at pull away or at top end or anywhere inbetween can be arranged in the programming...the bottom line is that re-programming is essentially changing the volumes of air and fuel that can be taken into the cylinder at specified rpm ranges.... more fuel and air = power / torque....and increased consumption. Emissions are a legal matter and of no matter to the discussion.
Cold air... even using dry ice packed around the intake makes no difference at all to power... by the time you've covered 200 meters... the air entering the motor is hotter than the ambient air temp...The % of oxygen in the air is another matter... that will provide improved combustion of the fuel and thereby increased power. At the altitude I live at I lose an unbeleivable 18% of the potential power of my motor at sea level...that is all about oxygen levels...
Theory would have us imagine startling results for cooler air... but bottom line... the difference between cooler and warmer is negligible when it comes to oxygen content... and that's what burns fuel.

Bottom line is.. you want more power ?... you look at the head... Larger valves, cams, gas flowing, and forced induction.... the rest is engine size and gearing to suit the specific performance requirements.... A hill climb vs a 12 hour race are different power requirements... you set up accordingly... the first is acceleration and huge low end torque... the other is top end speed and durability. Chipping may give you 15 - 20 horses and a higher fuel consumption... the real way of doing it will double and more the current total power output of the motor...and to that end there are turbo's and superchargers.. each with their respective drawbacks and benefits...and fitting either system will require a complete new management system as well as improved fuel pumps, pistons, oil pumps etc etc dependent on how far up the ridiculous you want to push the envelope... There are 1200cc motors capable of well over 1000 HP... good for a 1/4 mile sprint before the next rebuild...or you can install a nitrous system and enjoy a flash of what it might be like to have real power under the hood..

Woody1000 · Post by **Woody1000** » Fri 25 Apr, 2014 19:12

Blimey !! There are some real in depth discussions going on here which I find very informative but no detail has covered the ariel !!! What detrimental effect if any would sticking a Micky Mouse head on my ariel have on both MPG and BHP ?

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David · Post by **David** » Fri 25 Apr, 2014 19:54

Woody1000 wrote:What detrimental effect if any would sticking a Micky Mouse head on my ariel have on both MPG and BHP ?

...about 27 jiggawatts I think.

But Mickey Mouse wasn't in The Little Mermaid?!

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siwilson · Post by **siwilson** » Sat 26 Apr, 2014 08:20

Woody1000 wrote:Blimey !! There are some real in depth discussions going on here which I find very informative but no detail has covered the ariel !!! What detrimental effect if any would sticking a Micky Mouse head on my ariel have?

Tram-lining, Dazzling oncoming cars, subframe issues, scuttle shake, shorter service intervals, increased fuel consumption, reduced power and torque, rattling rear shock mounts, rattling petrol tank straps, leaking windows, oils leaks, lumpy clutch, brake judder, brake fade, broken seatbelt guides, stuck seat motors, and may many more.....Not to mention that you look like a dick!

Seriously, its not worth it. Take the Mickey off!

They do look good on an MX5 though

Southernboy · Post by **Southernboy** » Sat 26 Apr, 2014 08:24

......... I think Woody was taking the Mickey....

Vic-Z3 · Post by **Vic-Z3** » Sat 26 Apr, 2014 17:41

It's bad enough that we have to put up with these nasty little two seater cars but don't bring any unwanted attention
to yourself or anyone of us, by sticking Micky Mouse or any other ridiculous fictitious character on the piles of dung
we have to endure ...........

Woody1000 · Post by **Woody1000** » Sat 26 Apr, 2014 18:07

Well I guess your discuss Vic is due to jealously as you have probably longed for a Micky on your ariel since childhood.
As everything has a price I will of course sell Micky's head to the highest bidder as I know you all want one and it should be part of the Z, forget ///M grills and mirrors, spoilers and seats, air boxes and strut braces what you should all be wanting is Micky heads !!!

Fawdy · Post by **Fawdy** » Sun 27 Apr, 2014 18:35

After the above I'm not sure I dare ask this....I noticed the plug was not connected on top of the air filter (I guess the air mass sensor).

Plugged it in and I notice no difference !

Therefore I can only assume the car will now regulate air intake and should be more effiecent now plugged in ?

I guess I'm right ?

(Not sure how long it was disconnected I've not noticed it before but may have been disconnected on the recent service) but I've covered 300 miles since then and not noticed any difference...

beerbelly · Post by **beerbelly** » Mon 28 Apr, 2014 17:43

[quote="Fawdy"]After the above I'm not sure I dare ask this

usually if when unplugging the maf and it not making any difference then the maf is considered goosed

maybe a new one but not an ebay cheepie

gookah · Post by **gookah** » Mon 28 Apr, 2014 18:40

I put an aftermarket filter on mine, cos I liked the noise,
I put angel eyes on mine cos I like the look,
those are the only valid reasons I needed....

I also have aftermarket HID's on, and even though they are much brighter than the original lights, I find that they don't dazzle oncoming traffic, ..... so I am forced to put my fog lights on as well.....

Brian4 · Post by **Brian4** » Mon 28 Apr, 2014 19:08

Bring the car up to Duxford this weekend coming and meet some of the other zeds and have a good old discussion. Sunday 4th May only 40 miles from you.

akirk · Post by **akirk** » Mon 28 Apr, 2014 22:35

Well, I put the K&N air filter (panel type) in yesterday & new Osram nightstalker headlights...
headlights are better, though not amazing...
air filter - all I can say is that whatever the reality - the car sounds better and def. feels considerably more lively (faster!) - so def. worth doing

Alasdair

bertiejaffa · Post by **bertiejaffa** » Tue 29 Apr, 2014 01:06

gookah wrote:I put an aftermarket filter on mine, cos I liked the noise,
I put angel eyes on mine cos I like the look,
those are the only valid reasons I needed....
I also have aftermarket HID's on, and even though they are much brighter than the original lights, I find that they don't dazzle oncoming traffic, ..... so I am forced to put my fog lights on as well.....

You've hit the nail on the head Gookah I think... I agree that its always nice to know the impact, ie, does the air filter just increase noise or increase smile - however for a lot of the mods that happen on here it is a matter of choice.

Just do what looks good in your opinion. Most of them are already on the site so you can "try before you buy" and the majority of them are easily reversed if required.

Most people hate my bumpers - I like them; Most people like my lights - I love them; most people like an exhaust noise - I hate it; Some people hate lowered - I think it looks great (but not lowered to the floor)

Bushes, coils, filters, oil, wiring, weatherproofing, polishing, colours, fuel, tyres, wheels, hard or soft tops, use it or garage it, OEM or mod, to brace or not to brace, brake pads, calipers, bras (not for the razzle type), angel eyes, new eyes, tango or not, wide body, thin body, rust prevention, facelift, arselift, chrome grills, m signs on non-M cars, carbon wrapping, stereo unit, tweeters, arm rests, cruise control, wind defector, m mirrors, spacers... they are all on here and there are lots of great options of each - even to the point of using pile cream on the leather seats!!!

For me, as well as changing the bits that make you smile, I suggest changing the bits that are worn after time - accelerator cable, bushes, coils, brake pipes... they all make a difference. Whether the car has done 10 miles or 10,000,000 - plastic, rubber, filters and pipes perish with time.

Finally remember 3 things...

1) we all make many changes to our cars, and we all stand there admiring them. However, most of them are unseen to us at the most important time - as we drive with the top down along our favorite windy country road, smiling like we just got a phone call off Angelina Jolie (or Brad Pitt for sea surfer et al)
2) opinions are like (you know the saying) - we all have one
3) whichever opinion you have - someone on here has it - search, read and contribute....... the best site going !!

Southernboy · Post by **Southernboy** » Tue 29 Apr, 2014 06:18

Well said Lee... It's all about ones personal preferences... Personally I like Simota... nice throaty roar on acceleration... Only intake filter I don't like is one that requires oiling...I have an aversion to the idea that oily air is being sucked into the motor...whether it does or not I couldn't say... just seems very 1930's...like the old "oil bath" filtration system which was used at that time...

Brian H · Post by **Brian H** » Tue 29 Apr, 2014 06:43

Southernboy wrote:Well said Lee...

+1

mnbrennan · Post by **mnbrennan** » Tue 29 Apr, 2014 06:56

Southernboy wrote:Well said Lee... It's all about ones personal preferences... Personally I like Simota... nice throaty roar on acceleration... Only intake filter I don't like is one that requires oiling...I have an aversion to the idea that oily air is being sucked into the motor...whether it does or not I couldn't say... just seems very 1930's...like the old "oil bath" filtration system which was used at that time...

I need me one of these

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Southernboy · Post by **Southernboy** » Tue 29 Apr, 2014 07:07

.... are you referring to the 1930's oilbath filters... I think you'll need to look at the bottom of the pile in a really ancient scrapyard to find one now... They used to have those wire mesh type filters which rested in a dish of oil and fitted directly to the top of the carburettor... huge round pot with a "spout" through which the air was sucked in... The idea was the dirt would get stuck in the oil... I guess it worked, they persisted with the idea for years until the paper elements arrived...

Mike Fishwick · Post by **Mike Fishwick** » Tue 29 Apr, 2014 07:28

Oil bath filters are still widely used on construction machinery and large trucks, in conjunction with a cyclone filter (similar in principle to a Dyson vacuum cleaner) which acts as a 'fine' filter to remove the heavier perticles by centrifugal force, the oil bath acting as a 'coarse' filter. Just look at most trucks, where you will see an air filter with a hemispherical intake dome on the top of a cylindrical body (containing the cyclone path) with a bottom portion (containing the oil bath) secured by over-centre catches.

The centrifugal action of the cyclone filter also seperates almost all the oil from the air, so there is very little oily air ingested into the engine, which does not care about it anyway. Modern petrol engines also ingest a small proportion of oil from their closed-circuit crankcase breathers.

Obviously Scania and Caterpiller have not discovered the 'benefits' of K&N filters . . .

Southernboy · Post by **Southernboy** » Tue 29 Apr, 2014 07:32

...... Aha ! you spend time around large plant then Mike... I haven't ever looked under the bonnet of a Mack or any other such vehicle... Seems it's a very effective system in very dirty environments then...

Mike Fishwick · Post by **Mike Fishwick** » Tue 29 Apr, 2014 07:59

Yes, and they are also handy in 'normal' dusty areas, even such as the UK, where we have a lot of airborne grit, and salt particles for half the year! The downside of an oil bath filter is that it is bulky, but of course it lasts for ever, and only requires an occasional clean-out and topping up with engine oil, so no disposable elements or special filter oil are required. This is why most trucks use cyclone filters, as when the vehicle is in almost constant use even a tiny wear rate cannot be tolerated, and intake noise (particularly on a turbocharged engine) has to be suppressed.

Most large trucks have their air filters behind the cab, where they can be easily seen at the bottom of a tall intake 'snorkel' type pipe.

In extreme situation, even good paper filters can be a problem, as any joint in the filter or intake pipe can pass microscopic particles of sand - a friend rode across the Sahara on his 'well prepared' BMW motorcycle, and found that the engine oil had turned yellow! This was why BMW fitted oil bath filters to the R75 models destined for the Afrika Korps in north Africa. He had to replace the crankshaft bearings afterwards . . . and the wheel bearings, switchgear, steering head and swinging arm bearings, and shortly afterwards fork seals and rear dampers.

Mike Fishwick · Post by **Mike Fishwick** » Fri 02 May, 2014 07:56

For those interested, here is something I did not detail before, as it has nothing to do with the matter under discussion - how the E30 gains a bit of an edge in the mid-range.

The E30 engine management system - Bosch LE-Jetronic - used a throttle switch which closed at over about two-thirds throttle to slightly increase the injection pulse and so enrich the mixture, this providing a transition fom the normal cruise/weak mixture fuel delivery. It also had a vacuum switch which as the inlet vacuum fell on throttle opening switched the ignition control unit to a different curve with rather less advance, these factors providing better mid-range accelleration.

The throttle switch has a second set of contacts which, when the throttle is closed, cut off fuel delivery between about 1200 and 2500 rpm, so saving fuel on the overrun, eliminating exhuast emissions, and aiding engine braking.

The plate-type airflow sensor would respond to a sudden opening of the throttle by initially slightly overshooting,so providing a little additional enrichment for rapid acceleration before setting down. It also incorporated non-return valves to permit a backfire without damaging the sensor plate

For a simple analogue system it was very effective, but of course had to be specifically tailored to each engine type, whereas its successor, Motronic, could easily be tailored by use of different programming - but that was a much later system.

c_w · Post by **c_w** » Fri 02 May, 2014 22:44

My 205GTi had Jetronic, the throttle switch was pretty simple; an idle micro switch to confirm idle position and cut fuel, and from just off-idle to WOT (which was actually at 2/3 or 3/4 travel) it is open as Jetronic relies heavily/primarly on the flapped airflow meter. The WOT switch just helped confirmed full throttle.

I agree all non-OEM air filter setups are garbage. The aftermarket halo projector headlights are great with a HID kit if you don't mind the non-factory look. The factory headlights are American-made rubbish, just not good output at all.

Mike Fishwick · Post by **Mike Fishwick** » Sat 03 May, 2014 08:00

Both our Mk.1 GTIs and my early Mk.2 used the old K-Jetronic system, which was great, being mechanical witha cople of bi-metallic strip type additions - it was killed off by the ever-tightening emissions regulations.

Some pressure groups will not be happy until our engines act as air purifiers . . . .

t-tony · Post by **t-tony** » Sat 03 May, 2014 23:21

You are dead right Mike, and it's coming.