Help!
Is there any way to disconnect the alarm? Its 4.20 in the morning & my alarm keeps going off - I can unlock the car, switch on ignition, start the engine & drive off with the alarm still sounding - have tried using 'alarm key' but not sure its turning. Twice the alarm has stopped for about an hour then starts up again.
Disconnecting alarm?
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BladeRunner919
- Joined: Fri 17 Feb, 2012 20:18
- Posts: 2225
Re: Disconnecting alarm?
What do you mean? The key has only two positions and can't be removed unless it's in either the on or off position?Parki wrote:Help!
have tried using 'alarm key' but not sure its turning.
If I had to guess what the problem is, I'd go with the switch on the bonnet - they are notorious for giving problems. Try just unplugging it - mine's now permanently unplugged and I never get false alarms any more.
Re: Disconnecting alarm?
Thanks Bladerunner919 - could not see the slots in the alarm 'lock' - have managed to turn it in daylight so hoping thats shut up. Will try disconnecting bonnet switch - when I started her this morning all seemed ok then alarm came on after driving 1/4 mile - would bonnet switch theory fit that?
Theres no damp in Left hand side of boot but did come across 2 connectors (which look like they should go together) disconnected -anyone any ideas?
Theres no damp in Left hand side of boot but did come across 2 connectors (which look like they should go together) disconnected -anyone any ideas?
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BladeRunner919
- Joined: Fri 17 Feb, 2012 20:18
- Posts: 2225
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Re: Disconnecting alarm?
Do you mean the alarm came on while driving?
Re: Disconnecting alarm?
Yes - unlocked, started engine, drove off & then alarm sounded.
Re: Disconnecting alarm?
First of all, is the alarm still armed? There is an LED inside the cabin - is it flashing? If you unlocked the car with the remote, then that should disarm it.
Even with the siren turned off, the hazard lights will normally flash when the alarm "sounding". If the hazards aren't flashing, then it could be an intermittent power supply to the alarm siren - when it loses power it will sound using its own internal backup battery.
If the alarm is not armed, but still sounds, the only thing I have heard that can cause this is a problem with the tilt switch in the bottom of the left-hand boot well. Though the usual cause is prolonged submersion in water, if is is missing or disconnected in some way, then this may also have the same effect.
When you say something is disconnected, can you be more specific - are you left with just a pair of wires, or do they actually go to something? I would not connect them together until you are sure what they are for. Are they insulated? If they are not, they could be causing the alarm to go off when the car is moving by touching one another or the chassis.
Finally, does the alarm still sound when the car is only locked with the key i.e. without arming the alarm?
Cheers R.
Even with the siren turned off, the hazard lights will normally flash when the alarm "sounding". If the hazards aren't flashing, then it could be an intermittent power supply to the alarm siren - when it loses power it will sound using its own internal backup battery.
If the alarm is not armed, but still sounds, the only thing I have heard that can cause this is a problem with the tilt switch in the bottom of the left-hand boot well. Though the usual cause is prolonged submersion in water, if is is missing or disconnected in some way, then this may also have the same effect.
When you say something is disconnected, can you be more specific - are you left with just a pair of wires, or do they actually go to something? I would not connect them together until you are sure what they are for. Are they insulated? If they are not, they could be causing the alarm to go off when the car is moving by touching one another or the chassis.
Finally, does the alarm still sound when the car is only locked with the key i.e. without arming the alarm?
Cheers R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
Re: Disconnecting alarm?
Robert T - I have only been locking with the key, manually - when I got her last year, the 'bricks' were not communicating with alarm unit even with new batteries & have not got round to re educating alarm.
Have now turned alarm off (I hope) & I'll be happy to keep it off - no one ever takes any notice of alarms & they only go off waking the neighbours!
The 2 connectors are blocks - 1 black & 1 white, both female with 6 'holes' - 5 are lined in the black block & 3 holes are lined in the white - could they connect to the soft top mechanism? I have manual top.
Just tried to lock car using boot lock but was n't able to it will unlock car but not lock?
Thanks for the input.
Have now turned alarm off (I hope) & I'll be happy to keep it off - no one ever takes any notice of alarms & they only go off waking the neighbours!
The 2 connectors are blocks - 1 black & 1 white, both female with 6 'holes' - 5 are lined in the black block & 3 holes are lined in the white - could they connect to the soft top mechanism? I have manual top.
Just tried to lock car using boot lock but was n't able to it will unlock car but not lock?
Thanks for the input.
Re: Disconnecting alarm?
OK, if the fobs don't work, then there is the distinct possibility that the alarm is still armed. Does the LED inside the car flash? If it does, then you need to look at disarming the alarm (the key you have used literally just turns the siren off, NOT the alarm). There is a guide on here which should help you - the same one that details reprogramming the alarm to recognise the fobs again.
Spare connectors are not unusual on the Z3 - it has a common wiring harness with connectors for most of the optional equipment already on it. The tilt switch (which is often a problem for the alarm) is right at the bottom of the left-hand well - you need to remove the side trim to see it - it is about 6 inches below the level of the boot floor. The motor for the electric roof mounts behind the same trim panel, but much higher up, at the rear of the wheelarch. There are also connectors for the CD multichanger, but these are normally further forwards.
The boot lock problem sounds like the dreaded loom of doom - the piece between the boot lid and the body of the car. This flexes every time the boot is opened and the wires eventually break. It sounds like the lock wire from the boot lock has snapped. You will need to partially remove the sheathing in order to examine the wires inside.
One final thing to note - the immobiliser is separate to the alarm - this works off a chip in the key which is read inductively (it does not need a battery in the key). Even if your alarm is defunct, the immobiliser should still be working.
Cheers R.
Spare connectors are not unusual on the Z3 - it has a common wiring harness with connectors for most of the optional equipment already on it. The tilt switch (which is often a problem for the alarm) is right at the bottom of the left-hand well - you need to remove the side trim to see it - it is about 6 inches below the level of the boot floor. The motor for the electric roof mounts behind the same trim panel, but much higher up, at the rear of the wheelarch. There are also connectors for the CD multichanger, but these are normally further forwards.
The boot lock problem sounds like the dreaded loom of doom - the piece between the boot lid and the body of the car. This flexes every time the boot is opened and the wires eventually break. It sounds like the lock wire from the boot lock has snapped. You will need to partially remove the sheathing in order to examine the wires inside.
One final thing to note - the immobiliser is separate to the alarm - this works off a chip in the key which is read inductively (it does not need a battery in the key). Even if your alarm is defunct, the immobiliser should still be working.
Cheers R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
Re: Disconnecting alarm?
Robert T - yes your right, I've turned off the siren & LED not flashing - LED was flashing during siren going off but 'hazards' did not.
As car is 'quiet' will leave problem for now & attempt alarm re programming during warmer weather. Agree,the connector blocks unlikely to be problem. Still not seen tilt switch - anyone any photos? thanks for all help - its really good to be able to talk to people who actually know the issues.
As car is 'quiet' will leave problem for now & attempt alarm re programming during warmer weather. Agree,the connector blocks unlikely to be problem. Still not seen tilt switch - anyone any photos? thanks for all help - its really good to be able to talk to people who actually know the issues.
