front lower ball joint replacement help needed

[Wavesong]

Hi guys, could do with a little help. I have an advisory on my mot which expires this April. The advisory is for the front N/S lower ball joint, slight play. (2.4.G.2). I have read through the thread in the knowledge base area and see there is a lot of chat over the benefits of using M bushes, polybushes and standard but also note that this thread dates from 2007. At the time, the polybushes weren't a direct replacement fit and I wondered whether this has subsequently changed. From what I can see, the replacement is of the rubber bush only as the pin is part of the arm and the bush carrier is separate. I am assuming the play results from a deteriorated rubber bush and it is the one at the end, closest to the hub? I will replace both sides while I am at it and will be doing this myself. Any words of wisdom available?

[Del]

The Z3 has "lower control arms (aka wishbones)" at the front - one on each side. Each wishbone contains two ball joints (inner and outer) and the bush to which you refer. It sounds as if your MOT advisory relates to a ball joint and not the bush. If you are going down the DIY route (and assuming the wishbones are generally quite old) the best option in my view would be to replace both wishbones. If you wish to replace just the ball joint, you still have to remove the old wishbone and have access to a workshop press to press out (and press in) the ball joints.

The wishbones can be bought complete with new ball joints and attached bush so that it makes it an easier DIY bolt-off, bolt-on job. I did mine 3-years ago - I had a ball joint advisory on each side.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-E36-Z3-FR ... 2ebe616d5b

[BladeRunner919]

As Del says, go with whole new control arms. When I did mine I also upgraded the bushes on the new arms to polybush, given that I had the suspension apart already. I'd probably suggest this as the old bushed will probably be rather worn, and they are a rubbish design to start with.

[MarkAP68]

I'm currently doing mine at the moment but unfortunately all the nuts/taper joints are seized in place...I spent 4 hours at the weekend cutting nuts off but the taper joint is still stuck in the subframe!!

[bentley-boy]

What you need is one of those 'tuning fork' style ball joint splitters that are wedge shaped. Position it correctly between underside of subframe and balljoint pin with some grease around and drive it home aiming carefully with a hammer blow. They will pop out, did mine not long ago.

BB

[Del]

I agree with bentley-boy. I had problems "breaking the taper" on the outer ball-joints but found the slightly slimmer inner ball joints (going into the subframe) a bit easier. I used the fork style - ideally it needs a nice gradual taper on the fork so that it exerts nice vertical (rather that lateral) pressure on the ball joint. Whacked it with a 4lb lump hammer. It destroys the rubber dust cover but if you are renewing the whole wishbone this doesn't matter.

[Wavesong]

Gentlemen thank you, complete control arm ordered as this seems to be the painless way forward and genuine BMW part wasn't outrageous money. Fingers crossed everything comes apart clickety click.

[MarkAP68]

I've tried the fork type splitter, going to try heating it up and using a G clamp with U shaped bracket to try and drive it out at the weekend

[Del]

I've heard good reports on this stuff:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOCTITE-FREEZ ... 415cf94d36

[Wavesong]

I've tried the fork type splitter, going to try heating it up and using a G clamp with U shaped bracket to try and drive it out at the weekend

Hi, try this You Tube link. He uses a forked splitter but whilst whacking it, has some else holding a reciprocal hammer to help concentrate the shock. Seems to do the trick.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4iSrW61Zbz4

[Brian4]

I split the outer ball joints the other weekend using a hammer on the side of the arm, this doesn't damage the rubber boot. The inner ones are more difficult to hit whilst the car is on axle stands. The fork type splitter just needs a solid hit to work.