Please help seat nightmare

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Wed 03 Jun, 2015 14:56

Is there any other way to get them out the drill thing didn't work at all iv got to snapped spindles now and the seat is still all the way back

Brian H · Post by **Brian H** » Wed 03 Jun, 2015 15:37

Swap the front motor and spindles over from your other seat, this can be done with the seat in situ, 10 mins and job is sorted.

HTH

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Wed 03 Jun, 2015 15:47

Yep tried that one too it's like the rails have jammed solid

Brian H · Post by **Brian H** » Wed 03 Jun, 2015 16:21

You must have the rails twisted, measure them to a fixed point to try and work out which one is furthest backwards/forwards and adjust this on on its own until they are level, re insert the good motor and try again.

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Wed 03 Jun, 2015 16:28

Nope both rails are the same it's driving me mad that it just won't move

Brian H · Post by **Brian H** » Wed 03 Jun, 2015 16:32

Did your other seat motor work ok before you swapped it over?

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Wed 03 Jun, 2015 16:40

Yep works a treat

Brian H · Post by **Brian H** » Wed 03 Jun, 2015 16:54

Only other thing I can suggest it to hold the motor in your hand, insert one spindle in one side and click the switch forwards/backwards, do the same on the other side and it may free off. IIRC someone a year or so ago had to cut open the aluminium gear mechanisms to free off the seat, if this happens the rails are obviously buggered and need replacing.

phatsaff · Post by **phatsaff** » Wed 03 Jun, 2015 19:50

Hello Millhouse this sounds like the same problem I had just a few weeks ago.
If you are reasonably handy with tools it shouldn't be too much of a problem.
Presumably you have removed both of the front rail nuts. You then need to prise up both front rails approximately 2"and wedge something in at the front so they don't come down - I used two 30mm sockets on their sides but anything solid with no give will do. You then need a flat ratchet with from memory a T25 Torx bit. This will let you remove the four Torx bolts under the seat rail (there is very little room and the ratchet needs to be small) which secure the shuttle which holds the seat bushes. Once these are removed the seat will move forward enough to get to the 2 bolts at the back of the seat which will let you lift the seat of the rail mechanism. I then could get to the inside rear rail bolt but the outside one I needed to cut off about 4mm of the rail to access the remaining bolt (you may not have to do this, it will depend in what position on the spindle it seized). You can then remove the whole assembly in one go to access the spindles. My inside one was just slightly seized but freed off after one turn but the up/down spindle and the outside spindle were seized solid and needed soaking in oil for three days and then liberally coated in copper eaze. They all work perfectly well now.
Hope this is your problem also and this information rectifies the situation for you.
Ian

Brian H · Post by **Brian H** » Thu 04 Jun, 2015 07:39

^^ Good info, I hope it works for the OP.

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Thu 04 Jun, 2015 08:48

Will wedging the rails up 2" bend them ?

phatsaff · Post by **phatsaff** » Thu 04 Jun, 2015 11:26

It didn't with mine but as I could see no other way to remove the seat other than destroying it I don't think you have any other option but is obviously a risk. This way the seat itself would be ok and you might have to just straighten the rail out (probably where the rear bolt goes through) in a vice or something similar. But as I said when I did mine everything was ok.
I am presuming this is the drivers seat we are talking about?

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Thu 04 Jun, 2015 12:50

No it's the passenger seat mate iv read your comment 1000 times now iv got to try and figure out what I'm doing

phatsaff · Post by **phatsaff** » Thu 04 Jun, 2015 13:34

Well it is possible, but is there a reason for getting the seat moving? I was replacing the bushes and had got so far it was not going to defeat me (and had bought the bushes anyway). If it was the drivers seat I could understand wanting adjustment but not really an issue for the passenger if it is fully back.
If you can be bothered remove the drivers seat to see what you need to do with regards to removing the 2 torx bolts. You wont need to remove the seat from the car just the four rail bolts and block it up. But to remove the passenger seat it is imperative that you get the smallest (depth) of ratchet possible i.e. from the tip of the torx bit to the underside of the ratchet. I got one including bits from the local bicycle shop for £4.99. The smaller the depth the less you need to lever up the rail. I can send you pictures of the rail from underneath if that will make it easier to understand what I am on about.

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Thu 04 Jun, 2015 13:52

If you wouldn't mind I'm struggling to lift mine 1/2 inch

phatsaff · Post by **phatsaff** » Thu 04 Jun, 2015 16:17

I have just taken a few photos and will send when I work out how. Should be pretty soon hopefully.

phatsaff · Post by **phatsaff** » Thu 04 Jun, 2015 16:25

I have tried attaching the files but even after downsizing them to 10% they are still too large for the 256KiB limit.

Anyone any idea how to reduce them even further to attach?

Brian H · Post by **Brian H** » Thu 04 Jun, 2015 16:34

phatsaff wrote:I have tried attaching the files but even after downsizing them to 10% they are still too large for the 256KiB limit.

Anyone any idea how to reduce them even further to attach?

To show pictures here you need to store them on an external photo server, photobucket, Image Shack etc etc. More info below.

http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=7658

HTH

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Thu 04 Jun, 2015 16:46

Well it didn't work again tried lifting the seat would barely lift inch so smashed the motors off again still didn't work so resorted to tho

And yet still can't get the seat to slide forward so going to angle grind it of only way left as there is no bolts showing to undo

phatsaff · Post by **phatsaff** » Thu 04 Jun, 2015 17:04

Brian H wrote:
phatsaff wrote:I have tried attaching the files but even after downsizing them to 10% they are still too large for the 256KiB limit.

Anyone any idea how to reduce them even further to attach?
To show pictures here you need to store them on an external photo server, photobucket, Image Shack etc etc. More info below.

http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=7658

HTH

Thanks for the info Brian but looks like there is no need for my photos or information anymore.

phatsaff · Post by **phatsaff** » Thu 04 Jun, 2015 17:09

Millhouse, I am sorry it came to destroying your seats as I am sure we could have between us managed to remove and save them but too late now I think

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Thu 04 Jun, 2015 17:12

The rail is jammed solid iv tried everything drills lifting up the rail and yet still nothing the seat was crap anyway leather was awful so I'm not to sad as iv got a lovely set of black leather ones but I'm still stuck as it still won't move forward to get to the rear bolts

phatsaff · Post by **phatsaff** » Thu 04 Jun, 2015 18:28

You need to do as I described and lift up the rails at the front to remove the 4 torx bolts this will slide the mechanism forward to access the rear bolts.

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Thu 04 Jun, 2015 18:40

They won't lift enough to get any torx bolts out

Brian H · Post by **Brian H** » Thu 04 Jun, 2015 18:51

http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... eat+bushes

The link above has a couple of YouTube links in it, the vids show some good shots of the bottom sides of the seats, maybe this can help?

BladeRunner919 · Post by **BladeRunner919** » Thu 04 Jun, 2015 19:28

Millhouse wrote:The rail is jammed solid iv tried everything drills lifting up the rail and yet still nothing the seat was crap anyway leather was awful so I'm not to sad as iv got a lovely set of black leather ones but I'm still stuck as it still won't move forward to get to the rear bolts

As the seat is already dead, just cut the frame with a grinder until you can get to the bolts.

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Thu 04 Jun, 2015 19:34

I'm going to know

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Fri 05 Jun, 2015 11:48

Quick question were would be the best place to cut to get the seat out ?

Brian H · Post by **Brian H** » Fri 05 Jun, 2015 13:02

Im guessing nobody has taken this route before so you are leading the way, If it were me I would have a look at the seat and see if you can get the seat off the rails first and then attack the rails.

Q. Have you got the long screw threads out of the rails?

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Fri 05 Jun, 2015 13:29

No I can't get to them

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Fri 05 Jun, 2015 16:23

Right here's the next stage finally got the seat frame out the way with bolt cutters but still the bloody rails won't move

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Sat 06 Jun, 2015 17:23

And it's finally done after hours of grinding we finally got the rails off and having to use a torx gun to get the bolts out as they were just solid and as for the rails they were cut in to 12 bits just to get them out the long gear was rusted solid so it would never have moved anyway but they are gone and now waiting on my new seats can't wait

Post by **Robert T** » Sat 06 Jun, 2015 20:56

If they were rusted, then it sounds like the car has had water come into it at some point. The carpet below the seats sits on 3-4 inches of foam, so whilst you have the seats out, it is worth checking underneath to make sure that there is no water still under there. If there is, get it properly dried out before installing new seats, and look for the source of the leak. I sincerely hope there isn't but it really is worth checking.

Cheers R.

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Sat 06 Jun, 2015 21:31

The foam is wet u see the seats iv looked and can't find were its coming in

littlefeller · Post by **littlefeller** » Sun 07 Jun, 2015 06:34

shotgun on the coins you have unearthed, but you can keep the macydees salt thingys

Southernboy · Post by **Southernboy** » Sun 07 Jun, 2015 06:49

The fitted carpet is in 2 sections. Back and front halves. The rear section requires removal of the rear storage box and the side trims as well as the 2 plastic sections along the door bottom which go through to the front foot well area. Also the center console will have to be removed.
The front half is another matter. It requires the center console, all the trim under the dash including the foot wll speaker trim and those same 2 plastic sections along the bottom of the doorway to be removed. Then you're faced with the section which goes under the heater matrix. Removing that isn't recommended, since it is fed hot water from the engine and the pipes go through the fire wall and are well sealed in position. Rather look carefully at the fitting and cut through the carpet with a long blade stanley knife type tool, so you can pull it out from under the heater.
Under the carpet are some plastic trims which protect the wiring loom running to the back of the car. If there is as much water as you suggest, I would strongly suggest carpet removal if only to check the condition of the wiring and remove any water.

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Sun 07 Jun, 2015 06:52

Found over £7 under there lol plus some very sticky sweets lol and I'm just going to leave it change the door seal and see how it goes iv got to get it through the mot next then I mite even get to drive the car as iv not drove it yet

Southernboy · Post by **Southernboy** » Sun 07 Jun, 2015 07:34

Ask Andy (Spurs fan in a coupe) about door seals. Although it is possibly more likely that the water has come in through the top corner of the windscreen where the roof seals to the windscreen. That is the most common point of leaks. Have a search under " leak at the top of the windscreen"... there's lots of chat and the remedy for it. Also, search for a post on how to adjust the window height. That will allow you to ensure the window is sealing to the rubber trim under the folding roof.

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Sun 07 Jun, 2015 07:37

Oh thanks for that il make sure I look them up just want to get it through an mot then the little bits

bertiejaffa · Post by **bertiejaffa** » Sun 07 Jun, 2015 19:00

I would also check in the boot - often water can come in where the rear of the roof meets the rear of the car. The water then runs down under the carpet beneath the rear window and (depending on how the car is parked either goes forward into the cab and under the carpets or backwards into the boot. If it goes backwards it tends to fill the 2 little wells at either side of the boot - very easy to check as the boot carpet is only held in with some clips that pull out. Also, if you remove the rear wall section of carpet in the boot you will probably see the water tracks if there has been any - agin an easy piece to remove (2-3 mins at tops.

BonBon · Post by **BonBon** » Mon 08 Jun, 2015 06:45

My leaks were via the door cards over the foot ledge. Previous tinkerers simply removed the plastic sheet liners in the door cards. I cut my own from thick plastic bag material and siliconed in place.

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Mon 08 Jun, 2015 07:11

Il make sure I look at that mate

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Mon 08 Jun, 2015 10:45

Upstate new seats in and working great taken her for the 1st drive today drove lovely considering it was spared and repairs but the abs and acs light is on all the time witch is a bit of a pain

peter2b · Post by **peter2b** » Mon 08 Jun, 2015 16:18

Glad you got it sorted at ladt ,I had a look under the boot floor mat on myz3, no damp but i did find a 5p coin
peter2b

Millhouse · Post by **Millhouse** » Mon 08 Jun, 2015 16:56

Seats are beut or tho I could plug all the wires in as the seats didn't have the connection witch I think that's for the heated seats