long tearm storage
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- Joined: Wed 28 Jan, 2015 21:34
- Posts: 46
long tearm storage
Can anyone help. i have had the car fully resprayed fitted new wheels and basicly done lots of things to make it as perfect as i can. so now im going to lock it away in a sealed garage for a few years . does anyone know if there is anything i shud do to preserve it as well as possible.
Re: long tearm storage
After spending all that money be nice to actually enjoy it!
Last edited by Julie Z3 on Wed 02 Nov, 2016 19:31, edited 1 time in total.
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- Joined: Wed 28 Jan, 2015 21:34
- Posts: 46
Re: long tearm storage
I know that it seems like a bit of a waste , but after spending litterally thousands on it i dont take it out especially if it looks like rain. so its getting vaulted away , i may buy another to tinker about with .
Re: long tearm storage
If its going to become a garage queen then there are a number of considerations.
What is the state of the garage, well aired, or damp, is it or will it get really cold when shut up?
If its cold and damp it isn't going to do the car any good over a long period.
Has it got mains power available to run mains equipment?
Probably best to put the car inside the garage inside a Carcoon to keep it in a reasonably well controlled environment.
If its going to be sat on its tyres then over a prolonged period the tyres will develop flat spots at the bottoms even if the pressures are increased. Supporting the car off the ground with axle stands front and rear would overcome the tyre issue but some would advise that doing so would put undue strain on the suspension whilst it is left dangling over a long period. Choice is yours, tyres aint cheap.
Cooling system should be protected with antifreeze with corrosion inhibitor.
Car should have an oil change before storing away and run up to operating temperature to ensure the new oil coats all the internal moving parts. The car should then be allowed to go cold before putting it away in storage to avoid internal condensation forming as it cools down.
Short length of wood should be made up to hold the clutch pedal down to disengage the clutch plate from the flywheel so it stops it corroding and sticking to the flywheel preventing the clutch from operating.
Set some mouse traps inside and around the outside and underneath the car to stop any attacks on the interior or wiring looms, don't forget under the bonnet around the engine compartment.
Remove the battery and maintain it with a battery maintainer or charge it up monthly off the car, always checking levels when you do.
Stick a large potato over the tail pipe to stop any entry by rodents.
Put the car away clean and polished, a cotton car cover would also help look after the paint and hood which should be left in the up position.
No doubt others will have different views but think I have covered what I would do and have done when over wintering my cars.
What is the state of the garage, well aired, or damp, is it or will it get really cold when shut up?
If its cold and damp it isn't going to do the car any good over a long period.
Has it got mains power available to run mains equipment?
Probably best to put the car inside the garage inside a Carcoon to keep it in a reasonably well controlled environment.
If its going to be sat on its tyres then over a prolonged period the tyres will develop flat spots at the bottoms even if the pressures are increased. Supporting the car off the ground with axle stands front and rear would overcome the tyre issue but some would advise that doing so would put undue strain on the suspension whilst it is left dangling over a long period. Choice is yours, tyres aint cheap.
Cooling system should be protected with antifreeze with corrosion inhibitor.
Car should have an oil change before storing away and run up to operating temperature to ensure the new oil coats all the internal moving parts. The car should then be allowed to go cold before putting it away in storage to avoid internal condensation forming as it cools down.
Short length of wood should be made up to hold the clutch pedal down to disengage the clutch plate from the flywheel so it stops it corroding and sticking to the flywheel preventing the clutch from operating.
Set some mouse traps inside and around the outside and underneath the car to stop any attacks on the interior or wiring looms, don't forget under the bonnet around the engine compartment.
Remove the battery and maintain it with a battery maintainer or charge it up monthly off the car, always checking levels when you do.
Stick a large potato over the tail pipe to stop any entry by rodents.
Put the car away clean and polished, a cotton car cover would also help look after the paint and hood which should be left in the up position.
No doubt others will have different views but think I have covered what I would do and have done when over wintering my cars.
Colb
1999 BMW 1.8 Z3
2003 BMW 2.5 Z4
1998 Honda Deauville NT650V
1999 BMW 1.8 Z3
2003 BMW 2.5 Z4
1998 Honda Deauville NT650V
- lordhelpus
- Joined: Sat 14 Sep, 2013 09:46
- Posts: 128
- Location: Tax Exile
Re: long tearm storage
All what colb states:
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Long term storage is a major hassle, their are guy's round these parts where I am that keep classic cars from the likes of Austin 7's to early 1960's Vauxhall victors, when I have spoken to them at the local watering hole about keeping their cars in good nick they all say the same thing " use them".
Just pick the right time......
Be sensible as when you do, and when you shouldn't, such as when the local authority starts salting the roads.....then don't.
Weather dry no chance of rain.....then do.
once a month when weather allows use the car 10 miles minimum.
All sorts of things start deteriorating such as the rubber seals in the suspension struts because the suspension is not being worked the seals dry out and when you do use the car, they leak oil past because their cracked and perished.
It's mostly all the rubber stuff that dries out, those classic car guys I speak to all agree to put a car in long term unused storage such as I understand your suggesting is by all accounts a nightmare, unless you have a dedicated sealed environment to store the vehicle in, and with the best will in the world your average garage doesn't cut it.
All the big classic\vintage\rare collectors such as beaulieu\ford museum run their cars out on a regular basis..!
and private collectors such as Jay leno\chris evans run theirs out.
+
Long term storage is a major hassle, their are guy's round these parts where I am that keep classic cars from the likes of Austin 7's to early 1960's Vauxhall victors, when I have spoken to them at the local watering hole about keeping their cars in good nick they all say the same thing " use them".
Just pick the right time......
Be sensible as when you do, and when you shouldn't, such as when the local authority starts salting the roads.....then don't.
Weather dry no chance of rain.....then do.
once a month when weather allows use the car 10 miles minimum.
All sorts of things start deteriorating such as the rubber seals in the suspension struts because the suspension is not being worked the seals dry out and when you do use the car, they leak oil past because their cracked and perished.
It's mostly all the rubber stuff that dries out, those classic car guys I speak to all agree to put a car in long term unused storage such as I understand your suggesting is by all accounts a nightmare, unless you have a dedicated sealed environment to store the vehicle in, and with the best will in the world your average garage doesn't cut it.
All the big classic\vintage\rare collectors such as beaulieu\ford museum run their cars out on a regular basis..!
and private collectors such as Jay leno\chris evans run theirs out.
1997 2.8................ Montreal Blue
Re: long tearm storage
The Z3 is not a high value car and is unlikely to become one in the forseeable future.
Best to use your Z3. Don't take it out on the salted winter roads. But don't fret about rain! A bit of water won't harm it, particularly if you've waxoyled underneath.
The car will stay in better shape if you use it regularly.
Best to use your Z3. Don't take it out on the salted winter roads. But don't fret about rain! A bit of water won't harm it, particularly if you've waxoyled underneath.
The car will stay in better shape if you use it regularly.
Re: long tearm storage
Hear hear! There are quite a few dry days in winter when you can drive your Z. I don't take Zelda out if the roads are wet or rain forecast, but if it rains when we are out well that's just the way the cookie crumbles. if you think there has been salt on the roads, jack up one side and hose the underside by pushing a lawn sprayer underneath it and moving it along the length of the car, then likewise jack up the other side and do the same. Then rinse off the bodywork and dry. On bright clear mornings I love going for a drive, top down, hat, scarf, heated seats on, heater blowing 50/50 on legs and face/hands, Super. Try it!
Bonzo.
Bonzo.
Z3lda (Zelda), 1998 2.8, Montreal Blue, Beige Oregon leather interior and M steering wheel, Sports Seats, Wood trim, Chrome Line Interior, Centre armrest with Cupholder, Alpina Softline wheels, Chromed Angel Eyes, De- tango'd, Rear stone guards, Sport aerial, ASC front strut brace, Strong Strut Butt Strut and Body Brace, Uprated brake fluid, Yellowstuff pads 78k.
Re: long tearm storage
The problem that I mainly encounter is brake discs. I keep mine outside, so have weather problems, which you won't have. They corrode and squeal when I'm getting the car ready for MOT.
I solve it by removing the discs and cleaning them on a lathe, but prevention would be better than cure.
Another consideration. Are you going to keep the MOT up-to-date? I don't know if it will affect it's value, but I would be wary looking at a car with several years of no MOT.
I have had the clutch problem, but that was a long time ago and the car had been left in a field for a year. I wouldn't keep the clutch pressed down as I think this will cause more problems than it will prevent (although I can understand why it was suggested). I think a better option would be to MOT the car every year (in the summer, if possible).
You haven't said why you are putting the car in storage. If we knew why, we could (maybe) give better advice.
I solve it by removing the discs and cleaning them on a lathe, but prevention would be better than cure.
Another consideration. Are you going to keep the MOT up-to-date? I don't know if it will affect it's value, but I would be wary looking at a car with several years of no MOT.
I have had the clutch problem, but that was a long time ago and the car had been left in a field for a year. I wouldn't keep the clutch pressed down as I think this will cause more problems than it will prevent (although I can understand why it was suggested). I think a better option would be to MOT the car every year (in the summer, if possible).
You haven't said why you are putting the car in storage. If we knew why, we could (maybe) give better advice.
Pingu
Re: long tearm storage
The cure for that is to use the car. Driving it on a regular basis will also prevent possible brake caliper seizure, parking brake seizure and keep the battery charged. You might even enjoy it! Don't just drive it round the block, a half hour run will get every thing up to temperature, and rid the exhaust system of condensation. Use the screen washers and wipers, move the wing mirrors around, move anything on it that's meant to move. A Z3 won't appreciate in value that much in the short or medium term. Surely one buys these cars for the enjoyment of driving and caring for them.
Bonzo
Bonzo
Z3lda (Zelda), 1998 2.8, Montreal Blue, Beige Oregon leather interior and M steering wheel, Sports Seats, Wood trim, Chrome Line Interior, Centre armrest with Cupholder, Alpina Softline wheels, Chromed Angel Eyes, De- tango'd, Rear stone guards, Sport aerial, ASC front strut brace, Strong Strut Butt Strut and Body Brace, Uprated brake fluid, Yellowstuff pads 78k.
Re: long tearm storage
sell it and buy a painting instead...
what a shame that instead of being used, cars end up like this:
what a shame that instead of being used, cars end up like this:
Z3 2.8 Progress Journal (Mine)
Z3 1.9 Sport Progress Journal (Wifey's)
I have an element of 'M-styling' on my car, If that's a good enough reason for the manufacturers to adorn a 320 with the M badge, then its certainly a good enough reason for me..
Re: long tearm storage
In my defence, I was talking about my 330, not a Z. I'd love to get rid of it, but the wife won't let me. Trust me, OP, a car in storage is more trouble than it's worth. As Gookah said, buy a painting. It will appreciate faster and you will enjoy it maintenance free.Bonzo wrote:The cure for that is to use the car. Driving it on a regular basis will also prevent possible brake caliper seizure, parking brake seizure and keep the battery charged. You might even enjoy it! Don't just drive it round the block, a half hour run will get every thing up to temperature, and rid the exhaust system of condensation. Use the screen washers and wipers, move the wing mirrors around, move anything on it that's meant to move. A Z3 won't appreciate in value that much in the short or medium term. Surely one buys these cars for the enjoyment of driving and caring for them.
Bonzo
Pingu
Re: long tearm storage
Hmm... wouldn't the rodents eat the potato?colb wrote:Stick a large potato over the tail pipe to stop any entry by rodents
2001 Z3 2.2 Topaz Blue (Trudy) - Keeper rebuilt from a write-off
2002 Z3 2.2 Titan Silver (Cookies) - Keeper rebuilt having been bought with a seized engine
2002 Z3 3.0 Sapphire Black (Peanut) - Keeper awaiting rebuilding having been bought as an abandoned project
Plus Willy, Kodak & Maycee - All 2.2 Sport projects. Yes, 6 is a lot of Z3s
Always happy to try and help with spares
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- Joined: Wed 11 Apr, 2007 13:13
- Posts: 160
- Location: Billingham
Re: long tearm storage
Totally agree with above, that is the only way to keep the car in good usable condition. My car has had thousands sent on it in regular maintenance and a full respray, it gets used all year round. I really enjoy driving it.Bonzo wrote:The cure for that is to use the car. Driving it on a regular basis will also prevent possible brake caliper seizure, parking brake seizure and keep the battery charged. You might even enjoy it! Don't just drive it round the block, a half hour run will get every thing up to temperature, and rid the exhaust system of condensation. Use the screen washers and wipers, move the wing mirrors around, move anything on it that's meant to move. A Z3 won't appreciate in value that much in the short or medium term. Surely one buys these cars for the enjoyment of driving and caring for them.
Bonzo
To mothball a car properly will involve a lot of money, has to be done correctly and you will have no guarantee that it will be worth it in the long run. I just cannot see the point. Instead reduce the usage to a minimum on dry days only if necessary, but just use it!!!
Pete C
2000 Z3M Coupe - Cosmos Black Metallic/Black Interior.
Previous BMWs
2003 E46 M3 6 speed manual - Carbon Black/Black Interior.
2000 Z3M Coupe - Cosmos Black/Black Interior
1986 M635
1985 E28 M5
1983 E28 528i Alpina
2000 Z3M Coupe - Cosmos Black Metallic/Black Interior.
Previous BMWs
2003 E46 M3 6 speed manual - Carbon Black/Black Interior.
2000 Z3M Coupe - Cosmos Black/Black Interior
1986 M635
1985 E28 M5
1983 E28 528i Alpina