Outside air temp sensor Z3m
Outside air temp sensor Z3m
I'm getting a new sensor posted to me by dealer I bought car from but not sure where it fits on the Z3m.
Anyone know?
Anyone know?
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Its in the drivers side rear wheel arch behind the wheel arch lining.
Strange but true, spend 30 minutes in a dealership while they tried to locate it on their systems.
Also the replacement sensor is a more expensive item on the ///M. Not a £20 plastic affair like it is for most if not all other BMWs but made out of copper etc. £100 for it.
Conor
Strange but true, spend 30 minutes in a dealership while they tried to locate it on their systems.
Also the replacement sensor is a more expensive item on the ///M. Not a £20 plastic affair like it is for most if not all other BMWs but made out of copper etc. £100 for it.
Conor
BMW Z3, the only way to build a true roadster
- The most powerful letter in the world.
- The most powerful letter in the world.
Cloz wrote:There is something that will never change is my love for Z3
smartypants wrote:Conor?
With an M??
The World's gone mad
smartypants wrote:The Z3 rear is a great thing to behold
Thanks for this. At least the dealer could tell you where it was, mine couldn't. Am getting the part posted over by the garage I bought the car from. Thought it would be cheaper to fit myself than 200 mile round trip.
Is it easy to get the trim off and replace or should I leave it to my next service?
Is it easy to get the trim off and replace or should I leave it to my next service?
Ross
No done the install yet, the part is sat in my boot
Will get around to it when weather is a bit warmer, I'd rather not know what temp is at moment as might stop me dropping the top
I need to remove drivers front wheel and wheel arch liner to get to it, been doing mods in the cabin until gets warmer
If you get one and instal before me let us know how easy it was
No done the install yet, the part is sat in my boot
Will get around to it when weather is a bit warmer, I'd rather not know what temp is at moment as might stop me dropping the top
I need to remove drivers front wheel and wheel arch liner to get to it, been doing mods in the cabin until gets warmer
If you get one and instal before me let us know how easy it was
Better than that here is a pic for the ///M
Item no. 4 on picture part number 62142491476
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=62&fg=05
Nb. the actual part looks slightly different than the pic but has the correct part number stamped on it
Item no. 4 on picture part number 62142491476
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=62&fg=05
Nb. the actual part looks slightly different than the pic but has the correct part number stamped on it
Oh my god you are right teach me to read posts properly I had it in my head that it was front drivers, good job I hadn't tried to do it myself yet, worse still I could have got BMW to do it when they removed the trim last week to do the rear endaj2007 wrote:Think you mean Drivers side rear wheel arch liner Jontt?
Ade
Thanks for correcting me
Cheers ..jonttt wrote:Better than that here is a pic for the ///M
Item no. 4 on picture part number 62142491476
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=62&fg=05
Nb. the actual part looks slightly different than the pic but has the correct part number stamped on it
I discovered this sensor when I was replacing the fuel flap lock cable. I think it's a bad design bolted to the body as it always shows a higher temp when it's sunny than it really is (ie black car gets very warm easily in the sun).
You don't need to remove the whole arch liner, I think you can get away with unbolting the front half of it and the topmost bolts and it should bend out of the way.
You don't need to remove the whole arch liner, I think you can get away with unbolting the front half of it and the topmost bolts and it should bend out of the way.
The non ///M sensor is in the front grill of the bumper not hidden in the wheel well.I have the ///M gauge fitted now with a matching sensor for a VDO gauge mine reads 2 degrees out (high) but this can be recalibrated on the rear of the gauge, theres a small screw that can be turned to calibrate the gauge if you so desire
Mines a vdo one not a bmw one as i retrofitted the ///m console into my zed the original sensor didn't work with the gauge it read way out.
I spoke to the guys at etb instruments and i brought the oil temp sensor to replace the sump plug and the out side air temp sensor both to match the gauges range and the gauges.
Site here...... http://www.etbinstruments.com/VDO_Range.htm
I spoke to the guys at etb instruments and i brought the oil temp sensor to replace the sump plug and the out side air temp sensor both to match the gauges range and the gauges.
Site here...... http://www.etbinstruments.com/VDO_Range.htm
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When I got mine from BMW several weeks back, it was apparently the last one in the UK.Ross_H wrote:AntMAnAntMan wrote:They are different sensors the non ///m one didn't work with the gauge so i brought a matching vdo one for £18 and it works fine
Where did you get one for £18 the local dealer quoted me £118 inc
BMW Z3, the only way to build a true roadster
- The most powerful letter in the world.
- The most powerful letter in the world.
Cloz wrote:There is something that will never change is my love for Z3
smartypants wrote:Conor?
With an M??
The World's gone mad
smartypants wrote:The Z3 rear is a great thing to behold
Well I finally got around to fitting to fitting the sensor today
Given that there seemed lots of confussion over where to fit even by dealers I decided to take some photos.
I will start by saying that this is quite an awkward job. I did try and do it without removing the entire wheel arch liner and in hindsight it may have been easier if I had but there is very little space to work in and I have big hands
First off remove rear drivers side wheel.
Then remove the 2 screws retaining the front part of the liner. (If you want to remove the entire liner there are 4 screws but the liner is a very tight fit and I did not fancy removing in full).
Then pull back the liner as much as you can. The sensor is located in this gap ie toward the front of the car.
The old sensor in place. This is a pretty tight space ie a void between the rear arch panel and inner frame.
I had no idea how the sensor was fitted but I could just see a retaining clip. Took me a fair while to pluck up the courage to give this a real tug with some thin nose pliers. In the limited space it is very hard to get any leverage. But I figured I couldn't make the thing any more broke than it already was .
Once I got the retaining clip off the wire connector pulled off really easily. It was much easier to see how the retaining clip worked once it was on the new sensor (see later picture). Note the clip does not just "pull away" as you would expect, you have to pull each side away for the block.
Here is a picture of the new sensor (and the 2 arch liner screws removed earlier).
The wires disconnected from the old sensor and sprayed with WD40.
The new sensor fitted to the wires and the silver retaining wire back in place.
I checked the new sensor was working by turning on ignition and the needle shot up to correct temp on the display Was a relief that was a faulty sensor and note faulty display. Out of curiosity I then reconnected the wires back onto the old sensor to see if WD40 has made any difference. It hadn't so definately a knackered sensor (on eBay now 50% off joking......75% off).
Next step should have been to remove the old sensor which is bolted onto a bracket. However, after 20 minutes and lots of WD40 I gave up. No way could I get any tools in there to loosen the $loody thing! Obviously as this thing is hidden away I was not too bothered how it was secured just so long as it was solid and would not "knock" on anything when driving.
So I had some spare polistireen (god knows how you spell that but the white packing material now known as "white stuff"). I secured the new sensor into the "white stuff" making sure that the end of the sensor was open to get a temp reading. I then simply "wedged" the "white stuff" into the void so that it would not move with vibration etc... and left the old sensor in situ.
Then just refitted the wheel liner, oh and don't forget the wheel
So I have a working temp gauge but was a pain of a job !
Given that there seemed lots of confussion over where to fit even by dealers I decided to take some photos.
I will start by saying that this is quite an awkward job. I did try and do it without removing the entire wheel arch liner and in hindsight it may have been easier if I had but there is very little space to work in and I have big hands
First off remove rear drivers side wheel.
Then remove the 2 screws retaining the front part of the liner. (If you want to remove the entire liner there are 4 screws but the liner is a very tight fit and I did not fancy removing in full).
Then pull back the liner as much as you can. The sensor is located in this gap ie toward the front of the car.
The old sensor in place. This is a pretty tight space ie a void between the rear arch panel and inner frame.
I had no idea how the sensor was fitted but I could just see a retaining clip. Took me a fair while to pluck up the courage to give this a real tug with some thin nose pliers. In the limited space it is very hard to get any leverage. But I figured I couldn't make the thing any more broke than it already was .
Once I got the retaining clip off the wire connector pulled off really easily. It was much easier to see how the retaining clip worked once it was on the new sensor (see later picture). Note the clip does not just "pull away" as you would expect, you have to pull each side away for the block.
Here is a picture of the new sensor (and the 2 arch liner screws removed earlier).
The wires disconnected from the old sensor and sprayed with WD40.
The new sensor fitted to the wires and the silver retaining wire back in place.
I checked the new sensor was working by turning on ignition and the needle shot up to correct temp on the display Was a relief that was a faulty sensor and note faulty display. Out of curiosity I then reconnected the wires back onto the old sensor to see if WD40 has made any difference. It hadn't so definately a knackered sensor (on eBay now 50% off joking......75% off).
Next step should have been to remove the old sensor which is bolted onto a bracket. However, after 20 minutes and lots of WD40 I gave up. No way could I get any tools in there to loosen the $loody thing! Obviously as this thing is hidden away I was not too bothered how it was secured just so long as it was solid and would not "knock" on anything when driving.
So I had some spare polistireen (god knows how you spell that but the white packing material now known as "white stuff"). I secured the new sensor into the "white stuff" making sure that the end of the sensor was open to get a temp reading. I then simply "wedged" the "white stuff" into the void so that it would not move with vibration etc... and left the old sensor in situ.
Then just refitted the wheel liner, oh and don't forget the wheel
So I have a working temp gauge but was a pain of a job !
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Told you it was located there!
Well done and thanks for the how-to article.
C
Well done and thanks for the how-to article.
C
BMW Z3, the only way to build a true roadster
- The most powerful letter in the world.
- The most powerful letter in the world.
Cloz wrote:There is something that will never change is my love for Z3
smartypants wrote:Conor?
With an M??
The World's gone mad
smartypants wrote:The Z3 rear is a great thing to behold
Maybe 'Wind Chill'jonttt wrote:
Why they couldn't just fit it in the bumper is beyond me
Gazza
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you"
Z3 S54 M roadster , BMW Z1, BMW M3 CSL, Z4M Coupe
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you"
Z3 S54 M roadster , BMW Z1, BMW M3 CSL, Z4M Coupe
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Hi all,
Got my replacement temperature sensor installed a couple of weeks back, but still no reading from the gauge.
BMW in Belfast are currently seeking diagrams to investigate the wiring on the car. Anyone have any idea what the problem could be? Fuse related perhaps?
Thanks in advance
Conor
Got my replacement temperature sensor installed a couple of weeks back, but still no reading from the gauge.
BMW in Belfast are currently seeking diagrams to investigate the wiring on the car. Anyone have any idea what the problem could be? Fuse related perhaps?
Thanks in advance
Conor
BMW Z3, the only way to build a true roadster
- The most powerful letter in the world.
- The most powerful letter in the world.
Cloz wrote:There is something that will never change is my love for Z3
smartypants wrote:Conor?
With an M??
The World's gone mad
smartypants wrote:The Z3 rear is a great thing to behold
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- Joined: Sat 30 Jul, 2005 19:34
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- Location: Belfast
I know, but BMW don't think its the gauge
BMW Z3, the only way to build a true roadster
- The most powerful letter in the world.
- The most powerful letter in the world.
Cloz wrote:There is something that will never change is my love for Z3
smartypants wrote:Conor?
With an M??
The World's gone mad
smartypants wrote:The Z3 rear is a great thing to behold
-
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- Joined: Sat 30 Jul, 2005 19:34
- Posts: 4054
- Location: Belfast
Thanks Ade,aj2007 wrote:Hi Conor
The Outside Temp gauge and Oil Temperature Gauge are fed by the same fuse (Fuse 46 - 15A) so if Oil Temp Gauge works fuse is good. If you have a multi meter +12v should be found on pin 3 of Temp Gauge.
Hope this helps
Ade
Oil Temp gauge works fine so its not the fuse.
C
BMW Z3, the only way to build a true roadster
- The most powerful letter in the world.
- The most powerful letter in the world.
Cloz wrote:There is something that will never change is my love for Z3
smartypants wrote:Conor?
With an M??
The World's gone mad
smartypants wrote:The Z3 rear is a great thing to behold
It's only there on the ///M.
On the other models, it's in front of the radiator by the right hand headlight.
See page 320
On the other models, it's in front of the radiator by the right hand headlight.
See page 320
Pingu
- offyourmarks
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no, it is not in front of the radiator by the right hand headlight.
I have out front bumper and I do not find it. Do not see any wires on front and any wires behind left wheel
EDIT:
f*ck! my bad , I had read front wheel but I have look in rear wheel. my question is:
my ///M is EU version, wiring is the same in UK and EU? I have look in left or right side?
sorry for my english
I have out front bumper and I do not find it. Do not see any wires on front and any wires behind left wheel
EDIT:
f*ck! my bad , I had read front wheel but I have look in rear wheel. my question is:
my ///M is EU version, wiring is the same in UK and EU? I have look in left or right side?
sorry for my english
Re: Outside air temp sensor Z3m
Bit of a thread resurrection I know.
I'm at the stage of testing stuff during my rebuild and stupidly unwired the old Guages before marking or taking photos of them. The outside air temperature one has 4 connections, all spades. I have markings on the gauge, 1, 2 '+' and '-'.
Wires are brown x 2, one violet/yellow and one brown/grey.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
I'm at the stage of testing stuff during my rebuild and stupidly unwired the old Guages before marking or taking photos of them. The outside air temperature one has 4 connections, all spades. I have markings on the gauge, 1, 2 '+' and '-'.
Wires are brown x 2, one violet/yellow and one brown/grey.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Re: Outside air temp sensor Z3m
From memory you will have 2 different circuits on the back of the gauge, the temp circuit and the lighting circuit.Sailorbaz wrote:Bit of a thread resurrection I know.
I'm at the stage of testing stuff during my rebuild and stupidly unwired the old Guages before marking or taking photos of them. The outside air temperature one has 4 connections, all spades. I have markings on the gauge, 1, 2 '+' and '-'.
Wires are brown x 2, one violet/yellow and one brown/grey.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
I will see if I can dig out a diagram.
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Re: Outside air temp sensor Z3m
My symptom was a highly erratic gauge that boinged around between -10 and 20 degrees all the time. So I bought a new sender at silly money. I replaced my temperature sensor this afternoon, so a couple of comments on the "how to" above.
It's easy to get to the sensor by removing the lower two bolt/screws that hold the arch liner in position. Then bend back the plastic liner to see inside the sill.
(My lower screw on the liner was missing its captive nut so this was definitely a job worth doing.)
It would be almost impossible to remove the thermocouple from its bracket in situ but the bracket itself unscrewed easily from the body.
Then ease the metal clip for the electrical plug off one side at a time. It comes off completely it doesn't hinge in any way.
Getting the sensor off the bracket needed heat, WD40, a vice and two spanners, but here's the rub, I didn't need to do it!
The electrical contacts were corroded because this is a silly place to put sensitive electrical apparatus, I cleaned them all up and the damn thing works perfectly. Do this before spending £100+ on a new brass bit.
Reassembled the thing with copper grease, a stainless washer and rust treatment (the mounting bracket is flimsy and rust prone) then screwed back into place with a new captive nut and plenty of Waxoil.
It's really a bit early to say but "Does anyone want to buy an unused new temp sensor?"
It's easy to get to the sensor by removing the lower two bolt/screws that hold the arch liner in position. Then bend back the plastic liner to see inside the sill.
(My lower screw on the liner was missing its captive nut so this was definitely a job worth doing.)
It would be almost impossible to remove the thermocouple from its bracket in situ but the bracket itself unscrewed easily from the body.
Then ease the metal clip for the electrical plug off one side at a time. It comes off completely it doesn't hinge in any way.
Getting the sensor off the bracket needed heat, WD40, a vice and two spanners, but here's the rub, I didn't need to do it!
The electrical contacts were corroded because this is a silly place to put sensitive electrical apparatus, I cleaned them all up and the damn thing works perfectly. Do this before spending £100+ on a new brass bit.
Reassembled the thing with copper grease, a stainless washer and rust treatment (the mounting bracket is flimsy and rust prone) then screwed back into place with a new captive nut and plenty of Waxoil.
It's really a bit early to say but "Does anyone want to buy an unused new temp sensor?"
Re: Outside air temp sensor Z3m
Great update.
Did you get it from a dealer ? They may take it back ?
Did you get it from a dealer ? They may take it back ?
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Re: Outside air temp sensor Z3m
To be honest I'm just waiting to make sure the thing is working before deciding I don't need the new one.
Since I fitted the refurbished sender the gauge has read a solid 20 degrees C whenever I switch the ignition on. I don't drive the car every day and It seems like every time I look it is actually perfectly reaosnable that the temperature IS around 20 degrees. Even at night my garage retains the day's heat and there are two freezers pumping out a little as well. I even took the home thermostat thing down and sure enough it read 20 degrees.
Since I fitted the refurbished sender the gauge has read a solid 20 degrees C whenever I switch the ignition on. I don't drive the car every day and It seems like every time I look it is actually perfectly reaosnable that the temperature IS around 20 degrees. Even at night my garage retains the day's heat and there are two freezers pumping out a little as well. I even took the home thermostat thing down and sure enough it read 20 degrees.