Hi
I had to get a new waterpump for the Z3M Roadster when the old one was clearly making a noise. Thought to replace thermostat with gaskets also.
The job seems fairly straight forward for a DIY homemechanic but the lowest of the waterpump bolts is really messing up things. It i the s50b32 Engine and I am not sure if I need somekind of special tool with a 10 mm socket on it to get the last bolt out. Timingwheel is in the way quite well..
Can anyone advice on this? Will the removal of the radiator make it any easier?
Summer is too short for this kind of stuff, thanks.
BMW Z3M Roadster waterpump
Re: BMW Z3M Roadster waterpump
Not sure if this will help, but Mike F wrote an article on replacing the thermostat on a 2.8, and it covers everything up to, but excluding, the removal of the water pump. He made a special tool for the water pump pulley. Hopefully there may be something in the article which will be of help to you: http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... =18&t=3631
Cheers R.
Cheers R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
Re: BMW Z3M Roadster waterpump
Whilst you in there I suggest you replace the thermostat housing whilst you there (if it's plastic like on the 2.8). About £20.
They do crack as I found out...I believe even the aluminum one can fail.
I would also replace the mechanical fan too (the plastic part with blades is available separately around £70 I believe, OEM) - they do with age have the ability to lose blades at speed and cause damage to radiator, hoses and even the bonnet.
I know as I've replaced 2..
They do crack as I found out...I believe even the aluminum one can fail.
I would also replace the mechanical fan too (the plastic part with blades is available separately around £70 I believe, OEM) - they do with age have the ability to lose blades at speed and cause damage to radiator, hoses and even the bonnet.
I know as I've replaced 2..
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Roadsterdude
- Joined: Fri 24 Jan, 2014 11:16
- Posts: 4
Re: BMW Z3M Roadster waterpump
Hello guys
Thanks for the tips it really helped out to understand the big picture. A Little different for the s5032b engine but nothing to worry about.
I also manufactured the special locking tool for the fan in 6 mm aluminium, aluminium was easy to work with and holds enough force in this case.
Regarding the lowest waterpump bolt, it needs to be the last one you loosen up and will only come out with the pump. I had to buy a special tool to get access. It was a 10 mm short socket with a rod that one normally uses in a battery driven hand drill. (just saw it in the hardwear shop and thougt it would get access)
I took out the old waterpump, scraped off all the old gasket, cleaned the surface well. I also changed the thermostat an the O ring for it. The thermostat housing is aluminium on the 3,2 l and looked very healty in all ways.
To make things a little easier I changed the lowest waterpump bolt to a 6 mm inverted hex bolt. This way the next one who needs to change the pump will get off a little easier than I did. Thought I changed all the bolts at the same time too, looks nicer with the new bolts.
One thing that I did not notice was the rubber hose that connects the pump to the interior heater core tube. Mine looked very good but if I had noted it I would have changed it too as it requires removal of the waterpump to be changed. If anyone does this job consider getting it from BMW as it is not a regular hose. It has different diameters on the two ends.
The belts did not look so good either so I changed them too. It takes a 13 mm socket and the waterpump tightener needs a 8 mm hex tool and the AC tightener needs a 10 mm hex tool to loosen/ tighten them.
Then just but the fan back and add new fresh coolant.
I did this work before I noted the suggestion about the fan. It lookd fine but I will check it more closely tonight. It can be changed with a little less work so thanks for the tip. After all it is a very good condition 18 year old car.
Take care and have a good WE.
Thanks for the tips it really helped out to understand the big picture. A Little different for the s5032b engine but nothing to worry about.
I also manufactured the special locking tool for the fan in 6 mm aluminium, aluminium was easy to work with and holds enough force in this case.
Regarding the lowest waterpump bolt, it needs to be the last one you loosen up and will only come out with the pump. I had to buy a special tool to get access. It was a 10 mm short socket with a rod that one normally uses in a battery driven hand drill. (just saw it in the hardwear shop and thougt it would get access)
I took out the old waterpump, scraped off all the old gasket, cleaned the surface well. I also changed the thermostat an the O ring for it. The thermostat housing is aluminium on the 3,2 l and looked very healty in all ways.
To make things a little easier I changed the lowest waterpump bolt to a 6 mm inverted hex bolt. This way the next one who needs to change the pump will get off a little easier than I did. Thought I changed all the bolts at the same time too, looks nicer with the new bolts.
One thing that I did not notice was the rubber hose that connects the pump to the interior heater core tube. Mine looked very good but if I had noted it I would have changed it too as it requires removal of the waterpump to be changed. If anyone does this job consider getting it from BMW as it is not a regular hose. It has different diameters on the two ends.
The belts did not look so good either so I changed them too. It takes a 13 mm socket and the waterpump tightener needs a 8 mm hex tool and the AC tightener needs a 10 mm hex tool to loosen/ tighten them.
Then just but the fan back and add new fresh coolant.
I did this work before I noted the suggestion about the fan. It lookd fine but I will check it more closely tonight. It can be changed with a little less work so thanks for the tip. After all it is a very good condition 18 year old car.
Take care and have a good WE.
Re: BMW Z3M Roadster waterpump
Viscous Fan Tool - http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... 9&p=273051
Pump Change - http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... =6&t=29136
HTH
Pump Change - http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... =6&t=29136
HTH
Pingu
Re: BMW Z3M Roadster waterpump
Sorry for al late answer - but for the future: The lowest bolt is accessible trough an indentation on the flywheel. i.e. you have to rotate the flywheel to the right position, and then you can reach it. It's one of those things that you find out after you have cursed a lot over stupid BMW-engineers until you suddenly realize that they have made a solution... 
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Roadsterdude
- Joined: Fri 24 Jan, 2014 11:16
- Posts: 4
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Re: BMW Z3M Roadster waterpump
Hej
Thanks for the info, I was wondering for my self how this could have ben planned so poorly. Turned out itwas just lack of knowledge.
Well the M8 inverted hex bolt will come off easily either way next time someone has to change the waterpump.
I found a nice set of cooling hoses on ebay UK that I thought I would purchase for later installation. "winterwork"
Have a good week.
Thanks for the info, I was wondering for my self how this could have ben planned so poorly. Turned out itwas just lack of knowledge.
Well the M8 inverted hex bolt will come off easily either way next time someone has to change the waterpump.
I found a nice set of cooling hoses on ebay UK that I thought I would purchase for later installation. "winterwork"
Have a good week.
