Looking at a 2.5 se z4
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Midsomer Mikey
- Joined: Thu 31 Dec, 2009 15:39
- Posts: 119
- Location: Gosport
Looking at a 2.5 se z4
Got my eye on a 2.5se 04 plate 87000 miles Z4 what should I look out for in terms of spec & faults
Re: Looking at a 2.5 se z4
Hi
Rear springs - they break
If its got 108 wheels check for corrosion - they all get it and a bit of a pain to refurb
Roof motor problems - usually caused by water holding due to drain hole blockage
Steering - some have reported dodgy goings on with the electric steering - loss of feel / pressure at full lock etc.
...... And finally the addiction of wanting to get out and drive it all the time lol
Rear springs - they break
If its got 108 wheels check for corrosion - they all get it and a bit of a pain to refurb
Roof motor problems - usually caused by water holding due to drain hole blockage
Steering - some have reported dodgy goings on with the electric steering - loss of feel / pressure at full lock etc.
...... And finally the addiction of wanting to get out and drive it all the time lol
Re: Looking at a 2.5 se z4
Hi, where are all the drain holes to check please - just as a maintenance check, and is there anything that can be done to prolong the like of the roof motor as mine is used an awful lot 
Thank you.
Thank you.
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Re: Looking at a 2.5 se z4
The problem is, the drain hole that causes the grief is on the passenger side where the motor is, and it's the one you cant see from above.
The best place to clear it is from in front of the rear wheel.
If you look at the back of the sill, there is a removable plastic panel, If you take this off you can see the lower end of the drain tube and what looks looks like a cross shaped rubber bung with slits in it. You can poke a wire all the way up from there and also remove the bung and put a hoover on it.
I used to tip a cupful of water down the side of the hood into the compartment and you can see the water run out if its not blocked. This water can also be seen with the panel refitted as it runs out beneath the sill just in front of the rear wheel. Thats how I could regularly see it was still clear.
The drivers side drain is visible with the roof down and you can see what your up against.
As regards the motor if it has already had water in, then its only a matter of time.
The problem is with these cars is that the motor sits in its own plastic soundproofing/housing. This then hovers above the compartment with the drainage holes.
The analogy is this: (Its the best I can describe it.)
If you imagine the compartment is a bucket with a drain hole, and the motor is placed inside a cup resting in the bucket. (the motor housing is the cup.)
If the bucket drain holes block, it will fill up and flow into the cup with the motor in.
Unblocking the drain hole will just empty the bucket. The cup will remain full and the motor sits in the water rusting away.
This is what people, (me included) find when they come to replace the motor.
The secret is hopefully never to let the bucket fill enough to flow into the cup by keeping the drain holes clear, but that aslo relies on the previous owners,
My drain holes were clear when I had the car but the motor died a year later and was full of water that I knew had not collected in my ownership.
The best place to clear it is from in front of the rear wheel.
If you look at the back of the sill, there is a removable plastic panel, If you take this off you can see the lower end of the drain tube and what looks looks like a cross shaped rubber bung with slits in it. You can poke a wire all the way up from there and also remove the bung and put a hoover on it.
I used to tip a cupful of water down the side of the hood into the compartment and you can see the water run out if its not blocked. This water can also be seen with the panel refitted as it runs out beneath the sill just in front of the rear wheel. Thats how I could regularly see it was still clear.
The drivers side drain is visible with the roof down and you can see what your up against.
As regards the motor if it has already had water in, then its only a matter of time.
The problem is with these cars is that the motor sits in its own plastic soundproofing/housing. This then hovers above the compartment with the drainage holes.
The analogy is this: (Its the best I can describe it.)
If you imagine the compartment is a bucket with a drain hole, and the motor is placed inside a cup resting in the bucket. (the motor housing is the cup.)
If the bucket drain holes block, it will fill up and flow into the cup with the motor in.
Unblocking the drain hole will just empty the bucket. The cup will remain full and the motor sits in the water rusting away.
This is what people, (me included) find when they come to replace the motor.
The secret is hopefully never to let the bucket fill enough to flow into the cup by keeping the drain holes clear, but that aslo relies on the previous owners,
My drain holes were clear when I had the car but the motor died a year later and was full of water that I knew had not collected in my ownership.
Z3 2.8 Progress Journal (Mine)
Z3 1.9 Sport Progress Journal (Wifey's)
I have an element of 'M-styling' on my car, If that's a good enough reason for the manufacturers to adorn a 320 with the M badge, then its certainly a good enough reason for me..
Re: Looking at a 2.5 se z4
Thanks alot Gookah that sounds clear enough, a little job for me tomorrow now
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Re: Looking at a 2.5 se z4
very good. now try to keep them that way..seasurfer wrote:Glad to report both drain holes are clear
Z3 2.8 Progress Journal (Mine)
Z3 1.9 Sport Progress Journal (Wifey's)
I have an element of 'M-styling' on my car, If that's a good enough reason for the manufacturers to adorn a 320 with the M badge, then its certainly a good enough reason for me..
