zroadster.net

by **Leadpipelouie** » Fri 08 Jun, 2012 21:24

Does anyone know if the M54 2.2 can come out on it's own or do I need to remove gearbox also ?
Is there anything significant regarding sequence of stripdown -apart from obvious disconnect battery ??
Louie

by **Brian H** » Sat 09 Jun, 2012 09:04

Louie,

Below is a like to the online BMW TIS this will give you an insight into the removal of the engine.

Online Repair Manual

A couple of members on here have had to strip out the engines so hopefully they will be along soon.

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sat 09 Jun, 2012 14:30

Brian,
many thanks mate -already made a start with the simple stuff,
ta,
John

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sat 09 Jun, 2012 17:03

Brian,
not sure I am using this correctly -I click on Z3 M54 and it takes me to another menu but clicking on that leaves me there ?
Anyway, induction,underskirt, lights, and rad out and looks as though there are 4 bolts each side and another bolt each side at the extremity ofthe bumper (under the arch skin ) so should be off tomorrow-getting there .
John

by **Robert T** » Sat 09 Jun, 2012 17:55

The engine/model stays selected and then you click the sections on the right. Here is the guide for Removing and installing engine (M52 / S52 / M52TU / M54):

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/00/32/32

Cheers R.

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sat 09 Jun, 2012 18:49

Robert,
thanks for the link.
"remove radiator" actually could have been made clearer but already past that stage.
Worrying that it says "remove transmission"-I was hoping to leave that in !
Many thanks,
John

by **swamper** » Sat 09 Jun, 2012 19:38

get a post up about it John...(if you get chance)...very interested

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sun 10 Jun, 2012 10:57

Will do mate.
How do I post pics ?
John

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sun 10 Jun, 2012 20:22

Well,
didn't get much done today -(dreaded DIY) - rads and bumper are off and wiring across front panel removed, however, made a mental note of jobs remaining and looks like my least favourite challenge lies ahead.
Done many engine mods and changes in my time and the one that gives most problems IMHO, is rusty
exhaust manifold studs-normally accessibility is the issue but these appear to be reasonable albeit very rusty !
Looking at these, they will either crumble apart or it will be an angle grinder job !!
Hopefully the replacement engine will come with "everything" as promised including the manifolds -we will see !
Now looks as though inlet manifold is next and noticed the engine to gearbox bolts look like torx type -more cost !
Looks as though the 'box can stay in -just need to make sure I line up the new clutch properly as I need to remove the auto
flywheel etc. from the incoming engine.
Do I need the engine ECU ? - probably !

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sun 24 Jun, 2012 18:13

As I forecast, 3 hours to hacksaw through inaccessible rusted nuts on my exhaust manifold to downpipes !!
Also had to buy E10 E11 E12 and E14 torx external sockets to securely lock onto the heads of the bolts which locate the gearbox bellhousing onto the engine block.
The bottom ones are easily accessible unlike the starter motor ones -they are get-at-able but it is a slow process with initially a small T-bar then subsequently with a 10 mm open-ended spanner which took an age.

If you have ever accessed "Pelican" products website, they have a forum and provide a handy breakdown of removing the gearbox which, in my case, sufficed as all I wanted was to split it from the engine.
They rate this as an "8" on a scale of 1 - 10 = 1 being inflatng a tyre and 10 being a full engine re-build so, not for the faint hearted.
It identifies 2 of the uppermost bolts as near-impossible to get to and suggest 6 ft of extension bars and U.j's but i was very fortunate in that the bolt nearest the lifting eye wasn't actually there !! Obviously, it had had a clutch or similar at some time in it's life and the fitters decided it was a bitch to remove so never replaced it !
I will follow the same process if I struggle . For the last one, I managed to get a ratchet with a long extension and UJ onto it between the two down pipes and it snapped easily .
My knuckles and forearms are skinned and scratched beyond belief .
So, with everything unbolted, my attention turned to securing some kind of lifting strap. there are 2 eyes, front and rear and relatively easy to get to-the rear one is right next to the missing top bolt on my engine.
I took a few minutes out to plan the removal and realised that i may not get the engine high enough to get over the front panel. It is located by 4 bolts protruding from each chassis member which accept 4 nuts to lock them in. As well as being held in place by these 4 studs, each end of the panel was also spot-welded to the chassis leg ??? 6 on the off-side and only two on the nearside ??
It was a no brainer -make life easy, drill out the spot welds and remove said front panel -10 minutes later, and the whole front was off and the job looked so much simpler.
After removal, I have to convert the ingoing engine from auto to manual.
If any of you have ever endured hours of misery trying to locate the input shaft through the driven plate splines on a new clutch while trying to exert rearwards pressure and at an angle, this should greatly reduce the pain as it should now come out, go in horizontally !
That's enough for today but happy that I have made so much progress and have a couple of days holiday to take next week which should hopefully see the engine in-if it stays dry ??

by **swamper** » Sun 24 Jun, 2012 21:07

thanks for following this up....makes for some interesting reading...and also a bit funny from this side :lol:

by **Leadpipelouie** » Mon 25 Jun, 2012 12:13

Nah,
the funny bit was when i finished, had a bath and fell asleep with a half glass of red which ended up all over the 2 month old cream lounge carpet !!!
She is still laughing -not !
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Fri 29 Jun, 2012 19:01

OK,
should have enlisted the help of my youngest lad -he is still courting so can get his hands into
impossible angles (??) -not a lot of room and found the little bolt holding the gearbox panel in place -bitch of a job to get to !
A serious tug of war ensued where the down pipes were determined to hold onto the manifold/engine due to an obvious long-standing relationship but a large chisel eventually encouraged them to let go .
I thought I had all the loom together sat on top of the engine but , no !
There was a cheeky little wire in that black plastic convoluted tubing and could not find any way of tracking it from the bulkhead through the end of the loom.green with white tracer and blue with yellow tracer -so if you recognise them, let me know.
yes, your right, cut it -which I duly did-funny the donor engine which came with it's own loom, had a similar incision
so not just me !
The new-ish loom (520i) had several subtle differences from the one on the Z3 so I thought- just transfer the bits over but no go so i removed the inlet manifold from the old engine and swapped everything over. Next job is to find the part of the harness with two wires chopped -green/white and blue/yellow -still with me ?
right, spigot bearing arrived but pissing down again and since i had run out of t-shirts (yes, i do have one somewhere without oil on it), I quit for about 10 minutes or so -long enough for the "storm" to pass over.
Now awaiting two down pipe gaskets whichare on order with Sytner but won't be here until monday.
Tomorrow's task is to fit the exhaust manifolds and link up the wiring.....straightforward .
Last job before re-fitting into the car is to fit the flywheel and clutch then beg/borrow a clutch alignment tool to make sure it goes in with as few traumas as possible.
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sat 30 Jun, 2012 19:38

Ok, panic over -traced the 2 wires inside the loom and hidden by a thick rubber gaiter and only had to cut once as I guessed right first time -not normal.
Clutch assembled -loosely fitted -I will make up a mandrel at work on Monday -well, someone else will do it - with 2 diameters -one for the spigot bearing and the other to slip through the clutch splines -don't need to be splined, just the right o.d.
Exhaust manifolds are now fitted but need to employ a couple of bolts as the engine arrived without them and stripping mine just delivered nuts ! Currently trying to find a thread on any of the ex mani studs as I had to butcher them to get them off
Once gaskets are collected, it's a case of getting the hoist out and then the fun begins -removing the engine was like birthing an elephant so you just know those downpipes will be looking smugly up daring me to fit them at the same angle as getting the gearbox on !!
Somehow, I think this part will be akin to pyramid-building, only longer !
Due to marital stress, I was "encouraged" to get the old engine off the driveway but it wasn't till it was gone that it occurred to me that it may have been wise to check that the engine mountings were the same -bugger !!!
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Thu 05 Jul, 2012 21:44

Having possession of bolts, studs and gaskets, I had no choice but to get on with the job - and it was dry !
I found it near impossible to get the exhaust manifold studs located so thought i would wait until the engine was up in the air. Problem is, once up there, I hung it over the bay and was overtaken with the urge to drop it in before i remembered the studs.
Easy, I thought -not a chance -i skinned myself even more than I did taking it out and the stud holes were well hidden.
I managed to get a few in but found them too tight to screw in by hand so i damaged the thread slightly and fitted the nuts. This would allow me more of a grip and the nuts would not tighten too early until the stud itself was fully located. The rachet/socket would then encourage the nut to re-thread and screw down the thread.
Not a good idea as the distance between the stud and cat only prevented the nut from fouling when the (short) protruding remains of the stud allowed the nut room to be fitted.
If I had planned it a bit better, I would have cut a slot at one end of the stud and simply screwed them in leaving room to fit the nuts.
Getting them back out now is tricky but next job.
I may try short allen bolts as an allen key is a lot slimmer than a socket.
Once that is done, I need to locate the engine to the box -looks horrendous from where I am as the cats foul the steering column on one side and the mountings are sitting on the inner wings ????
I made up a clutch alignment tool from some spare nylon from work which had 3 diameters and all looks straight .
curiously, the engine has to swing from right to left in a curved action in order to miss the column but too much and it gets jammed in the gearbox bellhousing-fun ahead !
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sun 08 Jul, 2012 21:26

With high hopes, I went into the weekend full of plans to complete the location of the engine into wife's Z3 !
However, despite having safely negotiated the angle of exhaust manifolds/cats round behind the steering column
I have spent the rest of the time trying to get the clutch assembly into the bellhousing . On reflection, removing one of the engine mounting brackets would have/did give me some room for manoeuvre. Flywheel now entered the bellhousing.
Ok, engine where it should be and angle into the box looks spot-on yet here I am still trying to locate the splines together -they just won't go -even moved the flywheel slightly with a large lever in case it was one spline out but to no avail - this is certainly a job I would never attempt again !
An old dodge is to use longer bolts fitted at opposite ends of the engine and slowly pull them together so new point of attack
is to get the front end back up on axle stands so I can get access to the underside of the driver's area -no chance from above !
Passenger side is relatively easy to get to from above so need to find a bolthole on a line from that side through the centre of the flywheel/clutch to the opposite side to ensure I am pulling equally.
Good news is she can't ask me to do any DIY while I am under her car -although she did comment that the driveway could do with cleaning of oil and anti-freeze residue !
Louie

by **swamper** » Sun 08 Jul, 2012 21:28

bloody mission :shock:

by **Leadpipelouie** » Wed 11 Jul, 2012 21:37

Well, today I feel very humble -spent a business trip on a nuclear sub in for re-fitting.
amazing what they cram into these things -including 100 men !

so geting this bloody engine into this Z3 should be relatively easy -once I am over the 'flu !!
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sun 15 Jul, 2012 19:37

For the couple of you who haven't turned off with boredom, some progress.
Engine and box now mated with just the starter motor to loctae in the gearbox bellhousing.
Not a major task as it is all wired up but access-as always - is tight and the mains wire is determined to prevent me from keeping it straight as I attempt to locate it on the dowel.
Before I have a serious go at that, it appears the engine mountings are wrong -remember,I junked the old engine before checking they were the same as the 5 series ! I think this has come back to haunt me so if anyone has a Z3 pair or can confirm they are the same, please shout now !

Nothing more is getting done until I check with Sytner tomorrow.

Louie

by **Zed Carer** » Sun 15 Jul, 2012 21:24

Just had a quick look on RealOEM and unfortunately it doesn't look like good news; for the left hand engine mount:
06/2001 2.2 Z3: Part no. 11811141137
Models applicable to:
E36: Details on E36
E36 320i
E36 323i
E36 325i
E36 328i

Z3: Details on Z3
Z3 2.0 Roadster, Europe
Z3 2.2i Roadster, Europe
Z3 2.8 Roadster, Europe
Z3 2.8 Coupé, Europe
Z3 3.0i Coupé, Europe
Z3 3.0i Roadster, Europe

So, according to RealOEM the 5 Series used a different engine mounting but still worth checking with Sytner to make sure.

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sun 15 Jul, 2012 22:13

Zed,
many thanks for that -so n/side needs changing --the most difficult one as can't see the last bolt !!
It was always gonna be that one !
Does anyone have one ?
Regards,
Louie

by **Zed Carer** » Mon 16 Jul, 2012 07:58

Leadpipelouie wrote:Zed,
many thanks for that -so n/side needs changing --the most difficult one as can't see the last bolt !!
It was always gonna be that one !
Does anyone have one ?
Regards,
Louie

Unfortunately I think that you will also need the right hand one as well:
RealOEM Part No: 11816752198
This one was only fitted to the Z3 2.2 and 3.0

by **Leadpipelouie** » Mon 16 Jul, 2012 11:59

Zed,
this has been confirmed by Sytner !!
regards,
John

by **Leadpipelouie** » Mon 16 Jul, 2012 18:09

Zed, hope you are right -just bought a nearside one on ebay - < £8 !!

there is another on there -same side but looks a different shape !

Louie

by **Zed Carer** » Mon 16 Jul, 2012 19:41

The link below has pictures of the two engine mountings:

LInk to RealOEM

by **Leadpipelouie** » Mon 16 Jul, 2012 20:18

Zed,
may get things done this weekend !
again -many thanks,
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Wed 18 Jul, 2012 19:06

Just had confirmation from the seller of the engine mountings that he only shipped today -paid on Monday !!
However, he is now quoting a different part number ?????? How did I know this was not gonna be straightforward ?

Got the starter motor fitted -easier than I thought and most bolts locked up tight.
i have taken printouts from my camera of the wiring loom so will hopefully start to plug everything in tomorrow
while waiting for the mountings -o/side coming direct from Germany !!
Since I have the whole front off the car, I am going to change the systems drive belt -looks pretty straightforward -assume I find the tensioner and slacken off -fit, then re-tighten ??
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Thu 19 Jul, 2012 18:53

Engine mountings are en route so thought I would have a go at the wiring loom/fuse box/ECU etc.
Everything is connected thanks to a load of colour pics i took.
They don't have to be in colour but I found it easier that way !
I currently have a TVR chimaera bodyshell which was rewired by a friend in Scotland who is colour blind -another exciting project waiting -I cannot contain my disinterest !

Everything clicked together and I even got some of the holders right. I stood back and realised it closely resembles an
explosion in a wool shop !

When I am mentally stronger, I intend to re-visit this area -honest !

Also need to work out how the (cat?) connectors are routed on top of the engine.

Day off tomorrow and the plan (more Blackadder than Baldrick) is to tidy up all the silly little jobs till the mountings arrive.
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sat 21 Jul, 2012 19:51

Driver's side mounting arrived from germany -quicker than the Ebay one !!
Offside fitted quickly , making sure it still left me enough room on the nearside to finish off remaining connections.
Nearside arrived today and looked suspiciously smaller than thre one i took off !
Not to worry, there are 6 holes on the side of the engine for mountings and this one (almost) fited 4 of them.
how could a mounting designated for the car be around 1/4" out on one of the locating holes ????
Honest, I had to drill/file out the side of one in order to make it fit ???

Not only have I fitted both mountings but the whole front -bumper,rads and coolers are all assembled to the car.

This appeared to be a quantum leap for my missus as she ppeared with a hot cup of tea and a chocolate biscuit.
She knows this will guarantee another 1/2 hour on her car.

Anyway, almost everything now connected -just a jubilee clip for the fuel pipe and need to cut one of the heater hoses (I think) as it is different from the one which was on the car and is still attached to the scrapped engine somewhere ??
Also need to solder the pair of wires I cut trying to extracate the old engine .
Now dying to attempt to reconnect the battery (scary time) and fire her up .

However, I now realise i can't locate the connection for the air flow sensor !!
This means a complete search of the now rammed garage to see if is lying around somewhere -bugger ??

Any thoughts anyone ?
Wondered if i have another connection vacant and it is just a wire with a connector each end !

Watch out for the next thrilling instalment- yawn.
Louie

by **Brian H** » Sat 21 Jul, 2012 23:02

Louie,

The is a member breaking a z on the forum, linky, perhaps he might have the connector you need?

Brian

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sun 22 Jul, 2012 20:28

Brian,
many thanks but I worked out that a wire with a connection attached was a bit loose so pulled it apart and one end fitted the vacant connector and the other just happened to locate neatly into my airflow meter .
Hope this does the job.

Right, all that remains is ...
1) to cut a heater hose which was on the 520 engine and is longer than a Z3, and fit to heater outlet.
2) solder two wires I cut when removing old engine as there was no obvious connector I could break into -can't find my reels of solder so need to get some from work tomorrow.
3) 2 of the inlet manifold nuts to fit where there are 2 studs -tricky as at an angle and fingers won't fit !!
4) jubilee clip for fuel pipe .
5) exhaust downpipe nuts-- I hacksawed off -got 2 nuts on already and partially tightened -not much thread left.

Not much when you consider how much I have done already but the sun was shining and I needed a break.
Target is by Wednesday evening for completion or combustion.

Nervous as I have changed so much and also the possibility of dislodging something.

Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Tue 24 Jul, 2012 19:04

The big moment has come and gone -no go !

Spun her over several times but not a glimmer of life.
I even dropped a spot of fuel down the intake but not even a pop !
Don't want to pursue things too much as I will flood her if fuel is getting through .

Plan tomorrow is to check all fuses and wiring connections -after that, not sure what to do next, other than a diagnostics !!

Will also check fuel is getting from the tank but still should have fired with the little dribble I applied.

Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Tue 24 Jul, 2012 19:35

Just had a thought and locked then unlocked her just in case the immobiliser needed re-setting -still nothing !
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Wed 25 Jul, 2012 17:41

Step 1
Disconnected both fuel delivery and return to tank -not sure which is which but pipe just entering bottom of engine bay looks likely to be fuel supply.
No fuel appearing when ignition on or when spinning her over !
Where is the fuel relay/fuse anyone ?
Louie

by **Brian H** » Wed 25 Jul, 2012 18:16

Wiring diagram below showing fuse numbers: -

Relay coil - fuse 13 (5A)

Fuel pump - fuse 18 (15A)

Location of the fuel relay is behind the glovebox, item K6301w: -

HTH

by **Leadpipelouie** » Wed 25 Jul, 2012 18:43

Brian,
many thanks for the help -I will get back into it now ,
ta
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Wed 25 Jul, 2012 19:27

Both fuses ok.
Can't see any relays in the panel behind the glovebox-didn't touch that during the strip-down -so still confused !!
Louie

by **Brian H** » Wed 25 Jul, 2012 20:36

Louie,

Have you got access to a code reader? This could maybe point you in the right direction.

by **Leadpipelouie** » Wed 25 Jul, 2012 20:47

Brian,
no access to a code reader but will check with my local garage.
Call it pride but I prefer to think this out myself (with this forum)
Louie

by **Brian H** » Wed 25 Jul, 2012 21:12

Louie,

I have had a look again at the relay locations, the relay is in the drivers footwell just above the speaker. I was getting confused as the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual (ETM) cover the US car, some things like the wiring loom are obviously reversed for the UK version :head:

sorry.

You should just be able to see the bank of relays on the right of this picture. (ignore the writing on the picture, i used this picture for my cruise control retrofit)

Cheers

Brian

by **Leadpipelouie** » Wed 25 Jul, 2012 22:03

Brian,
your help appreciated mate !
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Wed 25 Jul, 2012 22:07

Brian,
there is a thick hollow rubber which comes off the back of the ECU and relay area and drops down behind it but with nothing going into it .
Is that standard or is there a connection down there to the relay ? same area ???
Louie

by **Brian H** » Thu 26 Jul, 2012 21:09

Hi Louie,

Leadpipelouie wrote:Brian,
there is a thick hollow rubber which comes off the back of the ECU and relay area and drops down behind it but with nothing going into it .
Is that standard or is there a connection down there to the relay ? same area ???
Louie

I do not know what the black tube is for, I have heard that there is a cooling fan for the ECU, it maybe has something to do that.

Brian

by **Leadpipelouie** » Fri 27 Jul, 2012 20:27

Herewith the latest in my long-running saga !!

Pulled all the electronics out of the ECU and surrounding box and made sure
all contacts were together properly when i found a connector with two thin wires just sitting there !!
1 greeen and 1 brown wire ???
Don't know how I missed it but can't see where it fits - unless there is a connector to the fuel relay
which has dropped down that hose as that is the direction the hose would take it ????
Any ideas ??
Had to pick up a kart from Cardiff today so got little time to spend on her -tomorrow i will get into the driver's footwell and try to find that relay.
Louie

by **Brian H** » Sat 28 Jul, 2012 07:07

Louie,

I took the image below last night, it shows an empty tube at the rear and there was a loose black 2 pole connector which had a brown and a green/brown cable going to it (the brown stripe was hard to see on the cable), could this be the same as yours?

Click image to enlarge

HTH

by **Mike Fishwick** » Sat 28 Jul, 2012 08:10

The empty tube looks like the ECU cooling exhaust - it draws and discharges from a combined tube just above the throttle pedal.

The green/brown connector would be for an ignition-switched supply, but may not be used for the car's original specification.

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sat 28 Jul, 2012 13:56

Brian,Mike, thanks -I also have that brown wire but connector end is blanked off so not current.
Just re-routing all cables to tidy/check things and so far nothing untoward !
Louie

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sat 28 Jul, 2012 20:14

Re-routed cables and generally tidied things up and made sure all connections were clean and tight.
Linked up the battery and ignition on !
Immediately , the temp guage needle went swinging over to the opposite side.
Spun her over and yet again, no firing ¬!

Does ayone have a wiring diagram please ?
I never had a problem with older car wiring so will have a go at troubleshooting.

Getting close to breaking this vehicle !!
Louie

by **Robert T** » Sat 28 Jul, 2012 20:36

Hi Louie. Links to full wiring diagrams are here: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=34176&p=319732#p319732

Was wondering why "wiring diagram" didn't find it in a search, until I read the article and realised it didn't actually contain the words "wiring diagram". Have edited it now so that it will show up in future searches.

Cheers R.

by **Leadpipelouie** » Sat 28 Jul, 2012 21:04

Robert,
many thanks for that -will have a look in the morning mate.
Louie

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