18 year check.
18 year check.
Winter is here and in a few months the car will be 18 years old with 135000Km under its belt. I felt that a review would be desirable, mainly to take preventative measures to preserve the car.
Since I drive the car on a regular basis I do not want the body in pristine condition. I know it is personal but if you buy an antique piece of furniture , I would like some patina and would not want it to be restored to new condition. It is the same with my car. Since I have put the marks on the car it is part of the history. So the body work and badges you can see will not be touched.
To get an independent assessment I decided to take the car to Barney H at Classic Heroes and after talking to him about my wishes, asked him to do a full snagging check.
After thoroughly looking over the car and driving it he made the following recommendations:
The car is due for a oil service and in addition, since it was two years ago, the brake fluid and coolant need to be changed.
The heater hoses are starting to balloon and should be changed.
O/s/f headlamp has a small crack. Although not essential I do not want water ingress.
The gearbox is noisy. When I had the differential bearing changed two years ago the transmission engineers reported a slight noise and this has got a little worse over the years. It is the layshaft bearing. Apparently quite rare for this to happen to 5 speed boxes. Three options are available: new gearbox, rebuild or a secondhand replacement. It is not desperate to do now but it is just irritating and it will get worse. I do not want the bearing to disintegrate and leave the car standing. I need to consider which route I want to take.
Headlamp washers are faulty, possibly the motor and not an uncommon fault. I did not notice this. Shows how often I use them.
Very bad leak from Vanos unit which I advised them about. Also there is a slightly lump idle. When they checked the vanos timing, both camshafts are a few degrees out. This is disappointing since the Vanos and gears were recently ( less than 2000Km ago) replace by a BMW main agent. The timing will be corrected when the seals are replaced.
Cam cover gaskets are leaking. These will be replaced while doing the Vanos seals.
Differential speedo pickup leaking. New gasket needed.
Mobility pack is very, very out of date. Well it is the original. I will not replace the charge since a can of sealant can be purchased for a tenth of the cost. The compressor unit is fine.
All undertrays are smashed and damaged. Cable ties are holding them on. New ones will be purchased while they are still available.
Rear sub-frame bush splash shields broken, again need replacing while available.
EGR pump hoses very oil contaminated from the leaking Vanos seals. Need replacing.
Bonnet release slightly faulty. It has been like it for years but I want a new cable.
Carbon canister has be broken and been repaired badly. I should purchase a new one while I can still get one.
Brake and fuel pipe clip missing and pipes bent. Need securing correctly. Looks like it happened when the canister was damaged.
Rear anti roll bar maybe slightly bent. It has come out twice over ten years. When the rear axel is dropped this will be checked.
With the body work it is the underside which needs some attention. I reviewed a series of pictures and was taken through a thorough underside inspection with the car on a ramp. Bodywork needs to be done now as rust must be eliminated while it is just surface corrosion. They would have to remove the sill trims on both sides to get at some of the leading edges. They would also repair the slight surface axle damage and the broken off body lugs that hold the brake pipe clips.
There are two small dents in o/s/r floor pan and n/s/f chassis leg caused by objects hitting underside of car.
There is slight surface corrosion to the boot floor and spot welds, rear sill edges, rear wing inner joins, rear floors, both lower front wing edges. These will have to be cleaned back to bare metal, treated with Kurust, etch primed, 2K stone chip applied and then painted.
While this is being done and the shields and undertrays are replaced they will clean the underside of the car and thoroughly Waxoyl everything.
This will repair all the damage and ensure long term protection.
They did spot a few additional things but they are not essential and can be left for now and checked in another year or at next service major service.
There is very slight play in water pump.
Seat belts look slightly old but are not cracked and are fully functioning.
Rear springs have a little surface rust. They will put some Waxoyl on them and keep an eye on them in the future.
Very slight play in both steering rack track rod ends. This does not at the moment affect steering.
Front damper bump stops have deteriorated. This is the original suspension and since ride height is correct and dampers fully functioning the stops can be left until new front shocks are fitted in the future.
I am happy with the analysis and all I need to do is decide what I want doing and when.
Since I drive the car on a regular basis I do not want the body in pristine condition. I know it is personal but if you buy an antique piece of furniture , I would like some patina and would not want it to be restored to new condition. It is the same with my car. Since I have put the marks on the car it is part of the history. So the body work and badges you can see will not be touched.
To get an independent assessment I decided to take the car to Barney H at Classic Heroes and after talking to him about my wishes, asked him to do a full snagging check.
After thoroughly looking over the car and driving it he made the following recommendations:
The car is due for a oil service and in addition, since it was two years ago, the brake fluid and coolant need to be changed.
The heater hoses are starting to balloon and should be changed.
O/s/f headlamp has a small crack. Although not essential I do not want water ingress.
The gearbox is noisy. When I had the differential bearing changed two years ago the transmission engineers reported a slight noise and this has got a little worse over the years. It is the layshaft bearing. Apparently quite rare for this to happen to 5 speed boxes. Three options are available: new gearbox, rebuild or a secondhand replacement. It is not desperate to do now but it is just irritating and it will get worse. I do not want the bearing to disintegrate and leave the car standing. I need to consider which route I want to take.
Headlamp washers are faulty, possibly the motor and not an uncommon fault. I did not notice this. Shows how often I use them.
Very bad leak from Vanos unit which I advised them about. Also there is a slightly lump idle. When they checked the vanos timing, both camshafts are a few degrees out. This is disappointing since the Vanos and gears were recently ( less than 2000Km ago) replace by a BMW main agent. The timing will be corrected when the seals are replaced.
Cam cover gaskets are leaking. These will be replaced while doing the Vanos seals.
Differential speedo pickup leaking. New gasket needed.
Mobility pack is very, very out of date. Well it is the original. I will not replace the charge since a can of sealant can be purchased for a tenth of the cost. The compressor unit is fine.
All undertrays are smashed and damaged. Cable ties are holding them on. New ones will be purchased while they are still available.
Rear sub-frame bush splash shields broken, again need replacing while available.
EGR pump hoses very oil contaminated from the leaking Vanos seals. Need replacing.
Bonnet release slightly faulty. It has been like it for years but I want a new cable.
Carbon canister has be broken and been repaired badly. I should purchase a new one while I can still get one.
Brake and fuel pipe clip missing and pipes bent. Need securing correctly. Looks like it happened when the canister was damaged.
Rear anti roll bar maybe slightly bent. It has come out twice over ten years. When the rear axel is dropped this will be checked.
With the body work it is the underside which needs some attention. I reviewed a series of pictures and was taken through a thorough underside inspection with the car on a ramp. Bodywork needs to be done now as rust must be eliminated while it is just surface corrosion. They would have to remove the sill trims on both sides to get at some of the leading edges. They would also repair the slight surface axle damage and the broken off body lugs that hold the brake pipe clips.
There are two small dents in o/s/r floor pan and n/s/f chassis leg caused by objects hitting underside of car.
There is slight surface corrosion to the boot floor and spot welds, rear sill edges, rear wing inner joins, rear floors, both lower front wing edges. These will have to be cleaned back to bare metal, treated with Kurust, etch primed, 2K stone chip applied and then painted.
While this is being done and the shields and undertrays are replaced they will clean the underside of the car and thoroughly Waxoyl everything.
This will repair all the damage and ensure long term protection.
They did spot a few additional things but they are not essential and can be left for now and checked in another year or at next service major service.
There is very slight play in water pump.
Seat belts look slightly old but are not cracked and are fully functioning.
Rear springs have a little surface rust. They will put some Waxoyl on them and keep an eye on them in the future.
Very slight play in both steering rack track rod ends. This does not at the moment affect steering.
Front damper bump stops have deteriorated. This is the original suspension and since ride height is correct and dampers fully functioning the stops can be left until new front shocks are fitted in the future.
I am happy with the analysis and all I need to do is decide what I want doing and when.
Last edited by Tilly on Sun 30 Nov, 2014 22:34, edited 1 time in total.
Re: 18 year check.
The labour charges for those jobs would kill me.
There is nothing there to be concerned about, but if it's your only car you will have problems as some of the jobs could easily turn into epics as you discover more "problems". For example, when you drop the rear axle, you will be tempted to drop the fuel tank, then you will notice the state of the body above the tank, etc.
There is nothing there to be concerned about, but if it's your only car you will have problems as some of the jobs could easily turn into epics as you discover more "problems". For example, when you drop the rear axle, you will be tempted to drop the fuel tank, then you will notice the state of the body above the tank, etc.
Pingu
Re: 18 year check.
I agree, nothing is essential to be done immediately, but what about in five years time? When the axel comes down and I see the state above the fuel tank if there are problems do I call it quits and scrap the car for spares or ignore it and wait until it faiIs an MOT or worse some part fails when driving. I have had the car a long time. I don't want to sell because basically my heart is ruling my head and I enjoy it so much. Unlike a new car it will not now depreciate. So my attitude is if you want to keep a car do you either wait for major problems to occur or do you try a take some preventative actions. I am going for the latter option. The whole cost of all these jobs is about a tenth of the depreciation of my 5 touring over the last 4 years. I want to keep the Z for another 18 years, I want it to be reliable and structurally sound. I have no such feelings with the touring. I wish that I had the skills and equipment to be able to do the work myself but heyho my talents lie if different directions. My task, as I said, is to consider the options, look at the costs and then decide what and when. I wish it was free but in over 50 years of motoring I have never found running cars inexpensive. Its how you decide your priorities and manage those costs that count.pingu wrote:The labour charges for those jobs would kill me.
There is nothing there to be concerned about, but if it's your only car you will have problems as some of the jobs could easily turn into epics as you discover more "problems". For example, when you drop the rear axle, you will be tempted to drop the fuel tank, then you will notice the state of the body above the tank, etc.
Last edited by Tilly on Sun 30 Nov, 2014 22:35, edited 2 times in total.
Re: 18 year check.
Tilly
I'd love to see some photos of your car. With the prices of Ms on the ascent it is refreshing to hear of one which is not just a "high days and holidays" car but used as the maker's intended.
Old cars are like old houses in that you have to spend regular amounts on preventative maintanance to avoid potentially expensive repairs. As has been noted, there's nothing that is essential, it can all planned ahead and budgeted for.
I'd love to see some photos of your car. With the prices of Ms on the ascent it is refreshing to hear of one which is not just a "high days and holidays" car but used as the maker's intended.
Old cars are like old houses in that you have to spend regular amounts on preventative maintanance to avoid potentially expensive repairs. As has been noted, there's nothing that is essential, it can all planned ahead and budgeted for.
Re: 18 year check.
I agree with everything you say. I just wish I could afford the labour instead of having to do it all myselfTilly wrote:I agree, nothing is essential to be done immediately, but what about in five years time? When the axel comes down and I see the state above then fuel tank if there are problems do I call it quits and scrap the car for spares or ignore it and wait until it faiIs an MOT or worse some part fails when driving. I have had the car a long time. I don't want to sell because basically my heart is ruling my head and I enjoy it so much. Unlike a new car it will not now depreciate. So my attitude is if you want to keep a car do you either wait for major problems to occur or do you try a take some preventative actions. I am going for the latter option. The whole cost of all these jobs is about a tenth of the depreciation of my 5 touring over the last 4 years. I want to keep the Z for another 18 years, I want it to be reliable and structurally sound. I have no such feelings with the touring. I wish that I had the skills and equipment to be able to do the work myself but heyho my talents lie if different directions. My task, as I said, is to consider the options, look at the costs and then decide what and when. I wish it was free but in over 50 years of motoring I have never found running cars inexpensive. Its how you decide your priorities and mange those costs that count.pingu wrote:The labour charges for those jobs would kill me.
There is nothing there to be concerned about, but if it's your only car you will have problems as some of the jobs could easily turn into epics as you discover more "problems". For example, when you drop the rear axle, you will be tempted to drop the fuel tank, then you will notice the state of the body above the tank, etc.
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Pingu
- Southernboy
- Joined: Thu 07 Oct, 2010 12:39
- Posts: 6437
- Location: Johannesburg
Re: 18 year check.
Most of the rubber components and gaskets are available from a Meile stockist. They are excellent quality -as good as OEM - and at around 1/2 the price or less. That includes items like drive belts, front steering / suspension bushes etc.
I would recommend a complete gearbox exchange for a 2nd hand unit. They are reasonably cheap and will probably last 10 years or more and at the price you can't better that. Differentials are mush the same, and a good 2nd hand unit is a good direction.
Regarding the DIY route, most tasks are not as difficult to handle as one imagines. A good set of socket and flat spanners, good jack stands and a decent hydraulic jack and some screw drivers will allow you to complete the majority of tasks. A good manual such as Bentley's will provide sufficient detail to guide you through the operations. Where you require special tools, it's easy enough to take the component to a repair shop and ask them to do the particular task which requires special tools. No point buying a tool you're only likely to use once.
It's worth the effort and will save you more than 50% of the maintenance costs in labour alone.![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
I would recommend a complete gearbox exchange for a 2nd hand unit. They are reasonably cheap and will probably last 10 years or more and at the price you can't better that. Differentials are mush the same, and a good 2nd hand unit is a good direction.
Regarding the DIY route, most tasks are not as difficult to handle as one imagines. A good set of socket and flat spanners, good jack stands and a decent hydraulic jack and some screw drivers will allow you to complete the majority of tasks. A good manual such as Bentley's will provide sufficient detail to guide you through the operations. Where you require special tools, it's easy enough to take the component to a repair shop and ask them to do the particular task which requires special tools. No point buying a tool you're only likely to use once.
It's worth the effort and will save you more than 50% of the maintenance costs in labour alone.
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Re: 18 year check.
Thanks for all the information.Southernboy wrote:Most of the rubber components and gaskets are available from a Meile stockist. They are excellent quality -as good as OEM - and at around 1/2 the price or less. That includes items like drive belts, front steering / suspension bushes etc.
I would recommend a complete gearbox exchange for a 2nd hand unit. They are reasonably cheap and will probably last 10 years or more and at the price you can't better that. Differentials are mush the same, and a good 2nd hand unit is a good direction.
Regarding the DIY route, most tasks are not as difficult to handle as one imagines. A good set of socket and flat spanners, good jack stands and a decent hydraulic jack and some screw drivers will allow you to complete the majority of tasks. A good manual such as Bentley's will provide sufficient detail to guide you through the operations. Where you require special tools, it's easy enough to take the component to a repair shop and ask them to do the particular task which requires special tools. No point buying a tool you're only likely to use once.
It's worth the effort and will save you more than 50% of the maintenance costs in labour alone.
A New gearbox is over £2500. recommissioning the existing one is about £1000, whereas a secondhand one should be less than £500. That is the route I am going to pursue. I had all the bearings in the diff replaced and that cost about £700 from specialist engineers.
As for the DIY jobs. Some I have done myself. I have all the tools that you list including the Bentley Guide which as you know only shows USA spec M car details. However, when you are, let us say not in the prime of life, crawling under a car becomes more difficult. In addition my garages do not allow me the room I would now like to comfortably work around the vehicle. My mind says I can do it my body just won't comply. So I will have to bite the bullet and get some younger assistance. Fortunately they will include me every step of the way so I can see what is being done, if any additional things may need to be done and have overall control of the decisions. All I have to do is too cough up the pennies. When I look at the total costs over 18 years, for the performance and enjoyment even with the current work, it has not been too excessive.
- Southernboy
- Joined: Thu 07 Oct, 2010 12:39
- Posts: 6437
- Location: Johannesburg
Re: 18 year check.
You might consider buying a second Z3 as a donor and selling off all the extraneous parts to recover some of the initial costs...seems a reasonable car can be had cheaply there...and if it's a "categorised" vehicle, it's generally even cheaper...May be worth thinking about... at least you can test drive it before hand to assess the mechanical condition... ![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Re: 18 year check.
Actually we do have another Z. Not an M version, but still many similar components.Southernboy wrote:You might consider buying a second Z3 as a donor and selling off all the extraneous parts to recover some of the initial costs...seems a reasonable car can be had cheaply there...and if it's a "categorised" vehicle, it's generally even cheaper...May be worth thinking about... at least you can test drive it before hand to assess the mechanical condition...
Main problem is it is my wife's car which she still drives. If parts started disappearing I think she would notice and my height would probably be rapidly truncated. I do not think I could buy much favour if I pleaded that the idea came from somebody from the forum.
But thanks for the idea.
- Southernboy
- Joined: Thu 07 Oct, 2010 12:39
- Posts: 6437
- Location: Johannesburg
Re: 18 year check.
Just received two quotes for a new OEM headlight unit for the M.
First was £600 inc VAT. Wow!!
Second: £895.84 Plus VAT WOW !!!!!!
Apparently these are the prices for all New OEM headlights irrespective of model.
If I was insane enough to get both sides fitted at a main agent if would cost approx between £1350 and wait for it £2300.
UNBELIEVABLE.
First was £600 inc VAT. Wow!!
Second: £895.84 Plus VAT WOW !!!!!!
Apparently these are the prices for all New OEM headlights irrespective of model.
If I was insane enough to get both sides fitted at a main agent if would cost approx between £1350 and wait for it £2300.
UNBELIEVABLE.
- Southernboy
- Joined: Thu 07 Oct, 2010 12:39
- Posts: 6437
- Location: Johannesburg
Re: 18 year check.
...... after all these years, BMW still insists on the prices...they should be grateful for people like us who drive these old cars...it's a good ad for them to demonstrate just how good they are !! ![Sunny :sunny](./images/smilies/smilie-sunny.gif)
![Sunny :sunny](./images/smilies/smilie-sunny.gif)
Re: 18 year check.
A Lot of PR about Classic heritage but as the technician in the main agent said, when he apologetically told me the price, we want you to buy a new car not repair an old car cheaply.Southernboy wrote:...... after all these years, BMW still insists on the prices...they should be grateful for people like us who drive these old cars...it's a good ad for them to demonstrate just how good they are !!
Enough said!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now what really has got my goat I have just received my e-mail news which I get because I have a new BMW:
THE NEW BMW X5 M AND X6 M.
THEY’LL BE HERE QUICKER THAN YOU THINK.
"Quicker off the mark and enhanced with the latest BMW ConnectedDrive technologies, the new BMW X5 M and X6 M models arrive next April. Built to stop at nothing, each model boasts an impressive V8 M TwinPower Turbo engine and eight-speed M Steptronic transmission. But, with iconic M design cues throughout, there’s more to these vehicles than power alone. To find out more, register your interest."
I don't think I am going to be registering my interest.
- Southernboy
- Joined: Thu 07 Oct, 2010 12:39
- Posts: 6437
- Location: Johannesburg
Re: 18 year check.
........ ditto........ Don't fancy those models.....but an i8 with a V8 turbo charged engine might enthuse me more.... ![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
Re: 18 year check.
Sounds interesting but currently the i8 has been commanding, I have been reliably told, a £100,000 premium over the new price of around £100,000. So how much do you think the V8 i8 would cost to buy and then maintain. I think I will try and stay with the Zed.Southernboy wrote:........ ditto........ Don't fancy those models.....but an i8 with a V8 turbo charged engine might enthuse me more....
Re: 18 year check.
work has now started so I thought I would share some pics. Came as quite a surprise as to what appeared.
First the car about three months ago. Original paint work after 80,000 miles. Never resprayed and all chips and dents still in place.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Originalpaint.jpg)
Underside revealed a different story.
First bent exhaust clamp.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Bentexhaustclamp.jpg)
Sills looked a little suspect but what lay behind?
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Sills.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Sill.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Whatsbehindsills.jpg)
Floor pan also has surface rust
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Surfacerust.jpg)
The undertrays and splash shields are all broken
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Undertray.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Brokensplashshield.jpg)
Undertray bits to be binned
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Undertraysforbin.jpg)
Removal revealed other problems.
Oils leak from vanos
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Leakingvanosseal.jpg)
Leaking seal on diff speedo pickup
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/leakdiffspeedopickup.jpg)
A broken cabon capture. I didn't even know it had been broken and badly repaired.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Carboncapture.jpg)
When it was broken it caused damage to a breakpipe clip and bent and moved some of the pipes. I recon it slipped off a jack.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Brakepipeattachment.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Brakepipes.jpg)
You could then see all the surface corrosion.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/rearsurfacecorrosion.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/mildsurfacecorrosion.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/rearaxel.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Springsurfacecorrtosion.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/slightsurfacecorrosion.jpg)
Time to remove the wings and sills
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Sidesillsoff.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/frontsuspension.jpg)
This revealed the bump stops on the front suspension had disintergrated
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Bumpstopsdeteriorated.jpg)
What about the sills. It was amazing the rubbish behind them.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Sillsremoved.jpg)
And there were holes in the metal
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Holeinsill.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Rustedsill.jpg)
On top a cracked headlight. It is letting in water and will get worse.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Headlight.jpg)
So it has to go. Gone!
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Heradlightremoved.jpg)
Not all bad news though. The car still has the original exhaust system and it doesn't look too bad.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/originalexhaust.jpg)
Finally where are we storing some of the bits. Inside the car before the gearbox comes out.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/partsstorage.jpg)
Have to see what next week brings.
First the car about three months ago. Original paint work after 80,000 miles. Never resprayed and all chips and dents still in place.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Originalpaint.jpg)
Underside revealed a different story.
First bent exhaust clamp.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Bentexhaustclamp.jpg)
Sills looked a little suspect but what lay behind?
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Sills.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Sill.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Whatsbehindsills.jpg)
Floor pan also has surface rust
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Surfacerust.jpg)
The undertrays and splash shields are all broken
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Undertray.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Brokensplashshield.jpg)
Undertray bits to be binned
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Undertraysforbin.jpg)
Removal revealed other problems.
Oils leak from vanos
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Leakingvanosseal.jpg)
Leaking seal on diff speedo pickup
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/leakdiffspeedopickup.jpg)
A broken cabon capture. I didn't even know it had been broken and badly repaired.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Carboncapture.jpg)
When it was broken it caused damage to a breakpipe clip and bent and moved some of the pipes. I recon it slipped off a jack.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Brakepipeattachment.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Brakepipes.jpg)
You could then see all the surface corrosion.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/rearsurfacecorrosion.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/mildsurfacecorrosion.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/rearaxel.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Springsurfacecorrtosion.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/slightsurfacecorrosion.jpg)
Time to remove the wings and sills
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Sidesillsoff.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/frontsuspension.jpg)
This revealed the bump stops on the front suspension had disintergrated
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Bumpstopsdeteriorated.jpg)
What about the sills. It was amazing the rubbish behind them.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Sillsremoved.jpg)
And there were holes in the metal
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Holeinsill.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Rustedsill.jpg)
On top a cracked headlight. It is letting in water and will get worse.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Headlight.jpg)
So it has to go. Gone!
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Heradlightremoved.jpg)
Not all bad news though. The car still has the original exhaust system and it doesn't look too bad.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/originalexhaust.jpg)
Finally where are we storing some of the bits. Inside the car before the gearbox comes out.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/partsstorage.jpg)
Have to see what next week brings.
Re: 18 year check.
Don't worry..... If you aren't thinking of keeping the car a long time or you intend later to scrap the car and sell the parts. I can imagine for a number of years the resale value of an M roadster could be lower than the sum of the saleable parts. I believe that will change in time and prices will catch up and exceed the price of the coupe.Bi11 wrote:Scared to look underneath mine now!
In mine with the underside nothing is urgent for now. The hole in the sill doesn't show and could be filled and there is no major corrosion which would affect either driving or MOT. If I was only thinking of keeping the car for a few years then I could leave it. It is the same with the gearbox and headlight. I can hear a slight wine in the layshaft and I can see the small crack in the headlight. The oil leak does need sorting since the oil is contaminating the hoses and steering rack.
The reason I am getting the work done now is because:
1. I intend to keep the car
2. Parts are going to get more difficult to replace and I fear costly. The quoted BMW price for the OEM self levelling headlight is already over £1000. My problem is I want to keep the car as original as possible. It is a personal thing and I can appreciate others who have different opinions.
3. Corrosion will continue and be more difficult and costly to sort out in the future.
A friend of mine said do nothing. Wait for the car to deteriorate then scrap it and use the money to buy one which somebody has already renovated. It will cost you less. Trouble is my heart rules my head. I like this car. That's the problem with long ownership.
Re: 18 year check.
It may look like a lot of work and may be disheartening, but it is 18 years old and I'll bet that it is in considerably better shape than other 18 year old cars.
Imagine what an 18 year old Mondeo would look like. The consolation Tilly is that you are investing in a car which is likely only to appreciate in value.
Imagine what an 18 year old Mondeo would look like. The consolation Tilly is that you are investing in a car which is likely only to appreciate in value.
Re: 18 year check.
Thanks for the support. If it goes up in value that's fine. I just enjoy driving it and I was recently told about a guy who had bought a new a new BMW 323i Alpina back in 1980. He had a small accident and he brought it in for repair. The driver is 90 and he ain't intending to sell his. I have some way to go but I can appreciate how he feels.TR4man wrote:It may look like a lot of work and may be disheartening, but it is 18 years old and I'll bet that it is in considerably better shape than other 18 year old cars.
Imagine what an 18 year old Mondeo would look like. The consolation Tilly is that you are investing in a car which is likely only to appreciate in value.
Re: 18 year check.
Now found out where the engine oil leak is coming from.
1. Nine of the cam cover bolts have been stripped, two completely. Sealant was used to try and stop the leak.
2. Bridge over the top of the Vanos had cracked. This was caused when the vanos was not aligned correctly with the pump.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Vanosbridge2.jpg)
3. Cracked cam carrier. Probably due to incorrect fitting of Vanos
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/cylinderhead.jpg)
Remedy. New cylinder head required.
UNBELIEVABLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
1. Nine of the cam cover bolts have been stripped, two completely. Sealant was used to try and stop the leak.
2. Bridge over the top of the Vanos had cracked. This was caused when the vanos was not aligned correctly with the pump.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/Vanosbridge2.jpg)
3. Cracked cam carrier. Probably due to incorrect fitting of Vanos
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20restoration/cylinderhead.jpg)
Remedy. New cylinder head required.
UNBELIEVABLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
- Southernboy
- Joined: Thu 07 Oct, 2010 12:39
- Posts: 6437
- Location: Johannesburg
Re: 18 year check.
...... Find a second hand cylinder head if possible and have it re-conditioned, or buy a re-con head. A new head will cost more than you paid for your car ! You will also need a full set of gaskets and new head bolts. The cylinder head bolts are torqued to stretch when fitted, and can only be safely used once. There are outlets there that will sell you a fully re-conned head. Alternately for a couple of hundred £'s you can buy a complete 2nd hand motor (eBay) and simply remove the head off that before having it cleaned up etc. You will still need a complete upper cylinder set of gaskets, seals and the new bolts. If you go that route, I would suggest you replace the valve stem seals and have the valves re-seated since you have the opportunity.
You really are having a bad time of it right now !![Sad :(](./images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)
You really are having a bad time of it right now !
![Sad :(](./images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)
Re: 18 year check.
Once again thanks for the info. A new intermediate cylinder head is almost £2000. It is not the full cylinder head which would be over twice that price. That is bad enough. However, the damage was caused by faulty workmanship and I am in the process of discussing options with all parties concerned. I have a full report with a complete video and picture record of the strip down plus I have offered the people concerned the opportunity of viewing the car and discussing the findings with the engineers. I am hoping we can come to a satisfactory conclusion to our discussions. Once I know that outcome I will be in a position to consider which route to take. I'll keep you informed about the outcome of the proceedings. Keep your fingers crossed for me.Southernboy wrote:...... Find a second hand cylinder head if possible and have it re-conditioned, or buy a re-con head. A new head will cost more than you paid for your car ! You will also need a full set of gaskets and new head bolts. The cylinder head bolts are torqued to stretch when fitted, and can only be safely used once. There are outlets there that will sell you a fully re-conned head. Alternately for a couple of hundred £'s you can buy a complete 2nd hand motor (eBay) and simply remove the head off that before having it cleaned up etc. You will still need a complete upper cylinder set of gaskets, seals and the new bolts. If you go that route, I would suggest you replace the valve stem seals and have the valves re-seated since you have the opportunity.
You really are having a bad time of it right now !
Re: 18 year check.
Looks like it is working. The engineers will be meeting to inspect the car and discuss findings. In the meantime BMW have ordered a new cam carrier from Germany. When the deliberations are complete we will start to negotiate who pays for what.Bi11 wrote:Good luck - fingers crossed for you
Re: 18 year check.
Result,
A master engineer from the BMW main agent inspected the car. After just five minutes the guys at Classic Heroes convinced him that the damage was caused by poor assembly.
Replacement parts have been ordered from Germany and there will be no charge.
A master engineer from the BMW main agent inspected the car. After just five minutes the guys at Classic Heroes convinced him that the damage was caused by poor assembly.
Replacement parts have been ordered from Germany and there will be no charge.
Re: 18 year check.
Great stuff - an early Christmas present for you! ![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
- Southernboy
- Joined: Thu 07 Oct, 2010 12:39
- Posts: 6437
- Location: Johannesburg
Re: 18 year check.
Well done! your persistence has paid off, and good to hear there are still corporates who will shoulder responsibility for their mistakes. ![Cheers :cheers](./images/smilies/smilie_beerchug.gif)
![Cheers :cheers](./images/smilies/smilie_beerchug.gif)
Re: 18 year check.
Thanks guys,
I am pleased and it feels like an early Christmas present. I am also glad that there was no quibbling. They admitted that it was poor workmanship almost immediately they saw the engine. I think that although it has caused me unnecessary anguish it has now been resolved to my satisfaction. Before they saw the car I spoke to the managing director of the agency and advised him what I wanted. He thanked me for letting him know the situation and what my wishes were. As far as I am concerned it has been resolved with the minimum of fuss. Now I just hope that the parts don't take months to arrive.
I am pleased and it feels like an early Christmas present. I am also glad that there was no quibbling. They admitted that it was poor workmanship almost immediately they saw the engine. I think that although it has caused me unnecessary anguish it has now been resolved to my satisfaction. Before they saw the car I spoke to the managing director of the agency and advised him what I wanted. He thanked me for letting him know the situation and what my wishes were. As far as I am concerned it has been resolved with the minimum of fuss. Now I just hope that the parts don't take months to arrive.
Re: 18 year check.
Really pleased for you and the Car will be back soon better than ever.
Brian
3.0I Topaz Blue
2000 E36/7 Z3 3.0i
2016 F31 335d
2015 F21 118i
3.0I Topaz Blue
2000 E36/7 Z3 3.0i
2016 F31 335d
2015 F21 118i
Re: 18 year check.
Tilly,
I am so pleased this has worked out for you, over the years you have put your car in the hands of "professionals" and it just goes to show what they try and get away with. Let's hope once all the work is complete you get to have a few hassle free years of motoring.
Brian
I am so pleased this has worked out for you, over the years you have put your car in the hands of "professionals" and it just goes to show what they try and get away with. Let's hope once all the work is complete you get to have a few hassle free years of motoring.
Brian
Re: 18 year check.
Well all the work on the car has now been completed. Apart from all the items in the original list, additional work involved:
Replace the cracked cam carrier and bridge, fit new cam shims and rebuild engine.
Supply second hand gearbox and replace detents and seals.
Replace complete clutch
Replace rear brake hoses and bleed brakes
Replace headlight washer jet
MOT car (no advisories thank god!)
I will pick up the car on Saturday. Unfortunately the airbag light on my wife’s car has now come on so I will be doing a swap.
Going to be an expensive month.
I’ll post some pics of the completed work when I collect the car.
Replace the cracked cam carrier and bridge, fit new cam shims and rebuild engine.
Supply second hand gearbox and replace detents and seals.
Replace complete clutch
Replace rear brake hoses and bleed brakes
Replace headlight washer jet
MOT car (no advisories thank god!)
I will pick up the car on Saturday. Unfortunately the airbag light on my wife’s car has now come on so I will be doing a swap.
Going to be an expensive month.
I’ll post some pics of the completed work when I collect the car.
Re: 18 year check.
That was an excellent read and a good result after poor workmanship damaged your engine.
Keep them coming,![Cool 8-)](./images/smilies/icon_cool.gif)
Keep them coming,
![Cool 8-)](./images/smilies/icon_cool.gif)
Re: 18 year check.
Thanks for the support.Sailorbaz wrote:That was an excellent read and a good result after poor workmanship damaged your engine.
Keep them coming,
I look forward to posting the completed pics.
Re: 18 year check.
Picked up the car today.
One problem took it for a test drive and then realised I had forgotten to take some pics so the underside was a bit messy.
Car now drives superbly with no hesitation. No noise from the gearbox and changes are very smooth.
Undertays now intact
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20pickup/carpickup011.jpg)
No leaking from the Vanos
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20pickup/carpickup002.jpg)
New carbon capture and straightened pipes
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20pickup/carpickup004.jpg)
[/urlNew headlight
[url=http://s606.photobucket.com/user/Tillyz ... 4.jpg.html]![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20pickup/carpickup014.jpg)
Sill which had the hole in it.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20pickup/carpickup008.jpg)
Engine back in one piece. New cam head fitted.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20pickup/carpickup026.jpg)
Pick up one dropped off the other. Airbag light on so it needs sorting.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20pickup/carpickup016.jpg)
Drove home with the roof down, BLISS![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif)
One problem took it for a test drive and then realised I had forgotten to take some pics so the underside was a bit messy.
Car now drives superbly with no hesitation. No noise from the gearbox and changes are very smooth.
Undertays now intact
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20pickup/carpickup011.jpg)
No leaking from the Vanos
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20pickup/carpickup002.jpg)
New carbon capture and straightened pipes
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20pickup/carpickup004.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20pickup/carpickup005.jpg)
[url=http://s606.photobucket.com/user/Tillyz ... 4.jpg.html]
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20pickup/carpickup014.jpg)
Sill which had the hole in it.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20pickup/carpickup008.jpg)
Engine back in one piece. New cam head fitted.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20pickup/carpickup026.jpg)
Pick up one dropped off the other. Airbag light on so it needs sorting.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Car%20pickup/carpickup016.jpg)
Drove home with the roof down, BLISS
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif)
Last edited by Tilly on Sat 14 Feb, 2015 20:26, edited 2 times in total.
Re: 18 year check.
Hats off Tilly - really great to see that commitment to ensuring it easily last another 18 years! ![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif)
1997 (R) BMW Z3 2.8 Roadster - weekender
Hell Red/Imola Red/Black Z3M leather - 2 door, manual
2005 (55) Porsche 997 C4S 3.8 - man-o-porsche
Arctic Silver/Black leather - 2 door, manual
2017 (67) BMW M140i - daily
White/Black leather - 3 door, manual
Hell Red/Imola Red/Black Z3M leather - 2 door, manual
2005 (55) Porsche 997 C4S 3.8 - man-o-porsche
Arctic Silver/Black leather - 2 door, manual
2017 (67) BMW M140i - daily
White/Black leather - 3 door, manual
Re: 18 year check.
Thanks,692DPG wrote:Hats off Tilly - really great to see that commitment to ensuring it easily last another 18 years!
Looking forward to putting a lot more miles on the clock. A friend in the US has suggested I take the car over there and do a tour with them. Highly ambitious but you never know! Many years ago when we lived in the States, my wife and I, plus our dog, did an 8001 mile trip in 28 days around the states in a Chevy Impala. I still have the AAA tripkit which was prepared for me. It is a 300 page, series of strip maps giving a detailed information of the route. New York - Chicago- Laramie- Salt Lake City- Reno- San Francisco- LA -Flagstaff- Phoenix-Tuscon- El Paso- Dallas-Memphis-Washington- NY.
I am sure the Z would now be up to it but would we be able to manage it? Thats going to take some thinking about.
Re: 18 year check.
Based on the findings with my car just an update on my wife's.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Dens%20Z3/Z3.jpg)
18 years old, 48,000 miles, garaged and not used in harsh weather.
Looks good from the outside.
Brief to Classic Heroes chec,k as with the M let me know what they find. Their report was initially mechanically little needed doing:
Replace one coil pack following diagnosis
Replace rear shock top mounts
Replace bonnet gas struts
Clean engine oil leaks from timing covers to appraise next service
Replace front anti-roll bar dive links
Replace poly belt
Renew usual fluids
In addition they would carry out and clean of underside of car. Remove undertrays and sheilds. Clean up all corrosion.
Treat with Kurust, etch primer, paint and Gravitex
Waxoyl car and re-assemble.
What did they find when sills removed.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Dens%20Z3/Z3%201.jpg)
These could not be repaired so new ones ordered.
These other two pics tell all
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Dens%20Z3/Z3%202.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Dens%20Z3/Z3%203.jpg)
So, as before, checking below the surface is well worth it as looks can be deceptive!
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Dens%20Z3/Z3.jpg)
18 years old, 48,000 miles, garaged and not used in harsh weather.
Looks good from the outside.
Brief to Classic Heroes chec,k as with the M let me know what they find. Their report was initially mechanically little needed doing:
Replace one coil pack following diagnosis
Replace rear shock top mounts
Replace bonnet gas struts
Clean engine oil leaks from timing covers to appraise next service
Replace front anti-roll bar dive links
Replace poly belt
Renew usual fluids
In addition they would carry out and clean of underside of car. Remove undertrays and sheilds. Clean up all corrosion.
Treat with Kurust, etch primer, paint and Gravitex
Waxoyl car and re-assemble.
What did they find when sills removed.
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Dens%20Z3/Z3%201.jpg)
These could not be repaired so new ones ordered.
These other two pics tell all
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Dens%20Z3/Z3%202.jpg)
![Image](http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/tt147/Tillyzm/Dens%20Z3/Z3%203.jpg)
So, as before, checking below the surface is well worth it as looks can be deceptive!
Re: 18 year check.
If you are going this far, I would also take off the rear wings and see what horrors lurk beneath.
This was my car when I did the same as you a couple of years ago...
Don't worry about the workload as it only takes 11 seconds to put it all back together
...
This was my car when I did the same as you a couple of years ago...
Don't worry about the workload as it only takes 11 seconds to put it all back together
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_mrgreen.gif)
Pingu
Re: 18 year check.
Hi Pingu,
Like yours the tub is fine. Front and rear wings are off and there is slight corrosion but nothing that cannot easily be sorted. Two new sills at £368.96 have arrived and are being primed and painted. I'm getting the job done properly since a friend had his sills prepped and painted by a professional paint shop just under four years ago for £500 and they have now rotted through. At least I can see each step of the job being done so hopefully there are no hidden problems.
Like yours the tub is fine. Front and rear wings are off and there is slight corrosion but nothing that cannot easily be sorted. Two new sills at £368.96 have arrived and are being primed and painted. I'm getting the job done properly since a friend had his sills prepped and painted by a professional paint shop just under four years ago for £500 and they have now rotted through. At least I can see each step of the job being done so hopefully there are no hidden problems.
Re: 18 year check.
Car done. Just a little bit poorer. Thank god petrol prices have dropped!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!