Driveshafts

[madleemark]

hi, the cv joint at the wheel end has started clicking, its not to bad yet, replacement soon, are the driveshafts the same across the range, z3 is a 97 2.8, there are lots of 1.9 shafts on fleabay, hence the question

[BladeRunner919]

No. 1.9 drivestafts are shorter.

[Southernboy]

I am very surprised to hear that the CV joint has any problem... these are practically indestructible. I have buddies that race e36's, and they have never ever replaced a CV joint at the back end.....If you are 100% sure it's that, then replace it. My bet would be a dry joint. The dry joint is common and all that's required is the rubber boot to be opened at one end and 4 or 5 pushes from a grease gun with axle grease inserted into the boot. A good strong cable tie is sufficient to re-seal the end of the boot again. I had the precise issue on my 2.8 a couple of years back.... Some grease and a bit of a running in sorted the problem.
Also, if one CV joint is dry, best do the inners and outers at the same time.

[madleemark]

thank you for replies, that has got to be worth a try, i will be under there tomorrow with the grease, i will let you know
cheers

[wifevanda]

Hi do we still use graphite grease for driveshafts

[Southernboy]

I can't comment on "graphite grease"... It sounds sensible, but may not be applicable to CV joints. I use the Bentley's lubricant guides which only specify OEM.
The amount of grease for the inner and outer is just 80 grams and 85 grams respectively.

[Mike Fishwick]

'Axle' grease is not the correct type of lubricant for CV joints, which require a special molybdenum grease. Typical greases for CV joints are Molykote MRM 2 or FIAT BRM 2 (same stuff in a FIAT package). Similar greases are available for CV joints on Volkswages, usually in measured quantity in a plastic dispenser tube. Talk to your local German & Swedish or FIAT dealers.

Graphite grease has never been an accepted lubricant for CV joints, as it cannot withstand the high pressure loadings between the point contact of the balls and their tracks. Just because it is black/grey does not indicate that it is suitable!

Something which many enthusiasts seem to be unware of is that excessive lowering can change the working angle of the driveshafts, placing a massive load on the CV joints, and also increasing the amount of power lost in articulating them. The old Renault 16 had this problem due to the centres of the inner and outer CV joints not being in line - just as if it were lowered.

The inner boot clips, on my October 1998 car at least, are re-usable by simply bending back the locking tongue to release the metal clip. Cable ties - no thanks!

[madleemark]

Well, had a go at greasing my driveshaft joints, found some comma cv lith moly grease at the local motorfactor, worked a treat, thank you for all the comments and advice,made an easy and cheap fix, that i had first thought would be expensive.

[Southernboy]

Good to hear your drive joints are working as they should now. It's a simple task to do, and one which many are unaware of by virtue of being "out of sight".

[bertiejaffa]

Out of interest, how did you know/hear the clicking? Was it at certain times, speeds, with/without stereo etc?

[Southernboy]

Hi Lee
if it's the drive shaft CV's it can be intermittent... When you hear it it almost sounds as if you have a piece of wire wrapped around the shaft which is slapping against a solid something under the car - ie. it's not a sound of something hitting the under body or anything hollow. I replaced my prop shaft thinking it was the prop universal joints, only to discover after that expense, I could have saved huge ammo with just a little grease..

[madleemark]

I first noticed that clicking sound when driving slowly along dry stone walled country lanes, at first i thought something within the handbrake drum, so had both rear drums off for a clean, when putting them back together, and rotating the the hub to set the brake shoes, again heard the nearside clicking, felt the driveshaft and i felt it through the shaft although could not detect any play, i assumed that it needed replacing, hence my original post, good that i asked, the grease within the gaitor was very dry, but a clean and fresh cv grease as advised sorted it, next job i plan to do is gearbox and diff oil change