Had both abs and asc lights on constant up until mot expired july last year and then the car was Sorn and garaged. Diagnostics said abs pump fault but research indicated that it was likely to be the module. Anyway l popped said module off and dropped it into BBA Reman in Kent and they confirmed that module was faulty and have now repaired it at a cost of £191 incl vat.
Apparently it's a reasonably common fault on bmw cars of the era and thankfully a really easy job to do... except for the electrical connector plug which is a ridiculous design which is really hard to work out. If your not careful you will break it and the plastic is brittle so be warned!
I am hoping that the lights will go out straight away when fitted rather than require the car to be driven for a few miles to 'reset'. Anyone who has done this able to confirm?
This is the module off the car..
1999 facelit Z3 Roadster 2.8 Auto in Cosmos Black aka 'Gloria'
There's four little bolts on the engine facing side of the module, one in each corner where the holes are in top photo, you then slide it away from the pump until it's free. No need to drain the fluid or disconnect hydraulics, it's basically an electrical box with solenoids. As l said in my post you have to be careful with the plug catch as it is completely illogical. Have you got similar issues onew your car?
1999 facelit Z3 Roadster 2.8 Auto in Cosmos Black aka 'Gloria'
I have just replaced mine with a like for like part if the two serial numbers are the same there is no need for coding.
Mine showed pump and electrical interference/wiring fault.
My abs lights where on intermittantly but when i fitted the new one testing it in inpa simulates the abs and it works great.
It may just reset with out a drive but equally may not my code reader puts them out stationary but with out the reader you may need a drive.
I fitted a second hand module to my son's car. It was exactly the same part number,
The abs fault light went out straight away but it would not brake properly and the wheels would lock. The traction control light would not work either and it would spin the wheels on hard acceleration.
It needed coding as it came from an E46 car. I recoded it, and it was fine afterwards.
if you have those symptoms after fitting you will need it coding. yours should still have the code stored inside from your car.
I have an element of 'M-styling' on my car, If that's a good enough reason for the manufacturers to adorn a 320 with the M badge, then its certainly a good enough reason for me..
Alan W wrote:There's four little bolts on the engine facing side of the module, one in each corner where the holes are in top photo, you then slide it away from the pump until it's free. No need to drain the fluid or disconnect hydraulics, it's basically an electrical box with solenoids. As l said in my post you have to be careful with the plug catch as it is completely illogical. Have you got similar issues onew your car?
The ABS light has been intermittent since I got it. I was planning on a module change (around the time Gookah did his son's) but my local garage then said there was no need and they sorted it via the sensors (I confess at this point the car was 400 miles from home and I hadnt had the experience I have now so I had not done the sensors myself etc). Since then the lights have been out until just recently when they have come back on but it has coincided with having a sticky caliper and sticky handbrake so Im thinking they might be linked.
The plan is to resolve the handbrake this weekend if possible (caliper already done) and read and reset the codes. I will also clean or more probably change some of the sensors depending on which fault codes I have and hopefully this will resolve it. Otherwise I will get the module off and send for repair if its easy enough to remove without draining as you say.
Yes it comes off a doddle and with no fluids involved. I will try to photograph the technique of locking / unlocking the electrical connector because others may end up breaking theirs... typical bmw over-engineering.
Instructions that came back with module state that you MUST disconnect battery before refitting the module and recommend then checking the ABS/ASC fuses.. anyone know which ones these are in the fuse box?
1999 facelit Z3 Roadster 2.8 Auto in Cosmos Black aka 'Gloria'
I had intermittent ABS/traction lights on and pump fault showing on BMW garage code reader. Changed my ABS pump and module complete for a used one from a Z3 2.8 of the same spec. that was built a couple of months away from mine (02/99) and had never had ABS lights showing. Part numbers are identical but lights remain. I have read on other forums that the ABS pump/module needs to be coded to the VIN number of the car and this is a semi automated routine using INPA software.
I am intending to buy BC cables kit and run the diagnostics to sort out. Does anybody have experience of doing this or advice on how to proceed? Thank you
