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: : : My driver side electric window has started to behave erratically. Both up and down, when the window switch is pressed the window only moves an inch or two and then stops. If the switch is released and pressed again, it will move another step of an inch or two.
: : : Although it could be just a dodgy dashboard switch or contact, does anyone know if this is sympomatic of a more deep seated problem inside the door? Hope not.
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: : There is an 'anti-trap' systen which is designed to stop children getting trapped in the window.

: : This will cause the window to stop operating if there is a resistance to movement (it is activated by a couple of relays). If the mechanism has got stiff, then this will cause the effect.

: : My suggestion would be to lubricate the window slides with PTFE spray (dry-lube) it is less messy than WD40! Take off the rear wing and lower body panel to access the window motor, and clean off all the old grease and re-lubricate the runners and gears. The 10 yr old grease has probably hardened in this last cold weather, and is causing a pertial siezure.

: : Please note that although the door may appear to work properly, if the window is stiff, then operation of the door and window will put extra strain on the door belt - because it will have to lift the door and the window without the assistance of the window motor. This could lead to failure of the door belt.

: : Best of luck - if this isn't correct, please post the solutiuon so that we can all learn!

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: Will do and many thanks.
: If I have to carry out the suggested wing removal et al, it might however be another ten years before i get around to it!

: BTW, I saw that Laszlo was enquiring about whether a DIY cambelt replacement is realistic? Have you ever tried?
: He also asked about tappet (valve lifter) adjustment. It is easy enough to do (I did mine!) but I still get an annoying tappetty noise at some rev ranges. My engine is v low mileage and in v good condition. Either I did it badly, which I hope is not the case as I took ages over doing it carefully OR one can get more accurate adjustment using say a dial guage (which I own) mounted somehow onto the cylinder head at the right angle. Have you ever tried this approach or is tappet noise (albeit pretty lowish volume) just a characteristic of the 2.5 engine?

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