SEATBEALT GUIDE
- Southernboy
- Joined: Thu 07 Oct, 2010 12:39
- Posts: 6436
- Location: Johannesburg
SEATBEALT GUIDE
Has anyone ever effectively resolved the fragility problem of the plastic seatbelt guide?
- BladeRunner919
- Joined: Fri 17 Feb, 2012 20:18
- Posts: 2225
Re: SEATBEALT GUIDE
I've used 1" heatshrink to 'repair' my broken one and also put it on the other as reinforcement. Gives an almost invisible repair.
If you want something more inventive, then have a look in this forum thread:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... ?t=1816855
Plus it's leather-clad, so I'm sure will appeal to you!
If you want something more inventive, then have a look in this forum thread:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh ... ?t=1816855
Plus it's leather-clad, so I'm sure will appeal to you!
- Southernboy
- Joined: Thu 07 Oct, 2010 12:39
- Posts: 6436
- Location: Johannesburg
Re: SEATBEALT GUIDE
I had a look at the leather "strap" mod...but I don't like the idea of the seatbelt rubbing on the seat upholstery everytime...also, it looks a tad iffy...must be a better option of prevention rather than cure / repair...I'll have to give this some thought...
- BladeRunner919
- Joined: Fri 17 Feb, 2012 20:18
- Posts: 2225
Re: SEATBEALT GUIDE
I do agree, and I wonder whether a modified version that had a second strap between the belt and the seat would be better - that would take all the wear.
- Southernboy
- Joined: Thu 07 Oct, 2010 12:39
- Posts: 6436
- Location: Johannesburg
Re: SEATBEALT GUIDE
I'd still like to keep the OEM fitting, but somehow strengthen it in such a way that it doesn't break. The most common breaks are to one or other of the two outer arms, or the base part which fits against the seat. I think the weak point is the split in the outer two arms which if you pull or press against either one, it or the base section will break. If it weren't split there, it would be a very robust item, since it would essentially be a closed circle and pretty much inflexible.
I may have an answer....I'll be back after talking to a couple of people...watch this space....
I may have an answer....I'll be back after talking to a couple of people...watch this space....
- Badman gee
- Joined: Sun 14 Nov, 2010 10:45
- Posts: 2299
Re: SEATBEALT GUIDE
Black alloy is the answer.Southernboy wrote:I'd still like to keep the OEM fitting, but somehow strengthen it in such a way that it doesn't break. The most common breaks are to one or other of the two outer arms, or the base part which fits against the seat. I think the weak point is the split in the outer two arms which if you pull or press against either one, it or the base section will break. If it weren't split there, it would be a very robust item, since it would essentially be a closed circle and pretty much inflexible.
I may have an answer....I'll be back after talking to a couple of people...watch this space....
- Southernboy
- Joined: Thu 07 Oct, 2010 12:39
- Posts: 6436
- Location: Johannesburg
Re: SEATBEALT GUIDE
Yes BMG, that would be the absolute ideal...but the cost of reproducing it in aluminium, and then having it powder coated etc would make for an extremely expensive product. A simple and elegant solution is what is required whilst still using the OEM plastic part.... I'm investigating a thought...and when I've done testing, I'll be back on the subject...give me a few days....
- Badman gee
- Joined: Sun 14 Nov, 2010 10:45
- Posts: 2299
Re: SEATBEALT GUIDE
Not necessary, lets ask doug whelan the alloy king.Southernboy wrote:Yes BMG, that would be the absolute ideal...but the cost of reproducing it in aluminium, and then having it powder coated etc would make for an extremely expensive product. A simple and elegant solution is what is required whilst still using the OEM plastic part.... I'm investigating a thought...and when I've done testing, I'll be back on the subject...give me a few days....
- Southernboy
- Joined: Thu 07 Oct, 2010 12:39
- Posts: 6436
- Location: Johannesburg
Re: SEATBEALT GUIDE
Have you had a look at the curves on one of those items??? The base section isn't a flat / straight piece, the two outer arms with the split are curved across the width and length, and then the entire thing is somewhat banana shaped....it would require a mould to be made, the item cast, then ground and polished and finally powder coated....it's not a very simple piece of geometry. I imagine DW has looked at this already, and knows it wouldn't be cost effective, especially given that not every Z3 owner would buy one....same as the hood release handles...those are still quite cheap and I doubt if 5% of Z3 owners have opted for it....This needs an economical and effective solution, easy to do for the average owner.
Re: SEATBEALT GUIDE
Having changed my seatbelt guides I think a contributory factor in the breaking is how a solid piece of plastic is fitted to a soft seat and is only held by 2 spring washers on the inside.
My logic tells me that because the only thing that is rigid is the outer part of the seatbelt guide then with flexing of the seat that is the part that will eventually break.
I would be more inclined to think that if the guide were fastened on the inside with something better (and rigid) then surely this would stop the flexing.
My logic tells me that because the only thing that is rigid is the outer part of the seatbelt guide then with flexing of the seat that is the part that will eventually break.
I would be more inclined to think that if the guide were fastened on the inside with something better (and rigid) then surely this would stop the flexing.
...........No Mods...... I like him just the way he is
- BladeRunner919
- Joined: Fri 17 Feb, 2012 20:18
- Posts: 2225
Re: SEATBEALT GUIDE
That's why I've used heatshrink - on the broken guide it holds it together perfectly, and on the unbroken one it provides support across the gap between the arms.Southernboy wrote:I'd still like to keep the OEM fitting, but somehow strengthen it in such a way that it doesn't break. The most common breaks are to one or other of the two outer arms, or the base part which fits against the seat. I think the weak point is the split in the outer two arms which if you pull or press against either one, it or the base section will break. If it weren't split there, it would be a very robust item, since it would essentially be a closed circle and pretty much inflexible.
Re: SEATBEALT GUIDE
I think UV light and age are two of the biggest factors in making the guides brittle enough to snap - that and the care with with you treat them when using the seatbelt. Still on my originals and they felt reasonably flexible still the last time I removed the belt to clean them. My zed is parked undercover most of the time, so is not in direct sunlight all the time. The same applies to the rear window, which is probably why I'm still on my original window as well.
A two part moulded plastic guide might be stronger, as I think the weakest parts are the two arms that allow the belt to be removed. If you had solid back and front pieces, they would support one another and be less inclined to break. With properly recessed screws/bolts you might be able to get a decent enough finish, but so that it can be removed from the outside to release the belt.
Cheers R.
A two part moulded plastic guide might be stronger, as I think the weakest parts are the two arms that allow the belt to be removed. If you had solid back and front pieces, they would support one another and be less inclined to break. With properly recessed screws/bolts you might be able to get a decent enough finish, but so that it can be removed from the outside to release the belt.
Cheers R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
Re: SEATBEALT GUIDE
The drivers side guide was broken on zippy when I bought him and he was only 2 years old and had been garaged from new so I don't think UV played a part in that. On the other hand I slipped one day when cleaning zippy and put my hand out to stop me falling .... My hand hit the side of the seat near the seatbelt guide and it of course flexed but the guide did not. It didn't break on that occasion but I could see how it could have done.
...........No Mods...... I like him just the way he is
- Southernboy
- Joined: Thu 07 Oct, 2010 12:39
- Posts: 6436
- Location: Johannesburg
Re: SEATBEALT GUIDE
Looking at the item, I would say that because it's fixing points are not rigidly supported on a stable base, it can be flexed under pressure, resulting in the base breaking, and or one of the arms.
If you look at the pic below, you will see that the base is likely to break if pressure were to be applied to the two ends of the item, and any one of the arms can be broken by pressure being applied at the center inwards or outwards. However, it is the base which breaks 99% of the time, at either end just above the connector where the center web flattens out.
If these two arm ends were joined, then the "solid circle" formed would counteract any pressure at any point and would form a stable structure - short of giving it a sharp smack with a hammer it wouldn't break anywhere.
If you look at the pic below, you will see that the base is likely to break if pressure were to be applied to the two ends of the item, and any one of the arms can be broken by pressure being applied at the center inwards or outwards. However, it is the base which breaks 99% of the time, at either end just above the connector where the center web flattens out.
If these two arm ends were joined, then the "solid circle" formed would counteract any pressure at any point and would form a stable structure - short of giving it a sharp smack with a hammer it wouldn't break anywhere.
Re: SEATBEALT GUIDE
Yes, but then how do you get the seatbelt through it? Can you make it in two parts and still achieve the same effect?Southernboy wrote:If these two arm ends were joined, then the "solid circle" formed would counteract any pressure at any point and would form a stable structure - short of giving it a sharp smack with a hammer it wouldn't break anywhere.
Cheers R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
Re: SEATBEALT GUIDE
I did a 'cheap and cheerful' repair to the passenger seatbelt guide in my car some time ago which has lasted well.
The base which sits against the side of the seat has a recess in it. I cut a piece of 1,0mm aluminium to fit into the recess and span the break. This was retained into the seatbelt guide using Araldite. To avoid getting Araldite on the leather I positioned a piece of polythene over the leather but under the bracket and held it in place with masking tape. By applying the Araldite to the aluminium before locating it in to recess on the bracket I avoided any Araldite showing. Some careful manipulation is needed to get everything lined up but after leaving overnight the polythene can be removed leaving a serviceable seatbelt guide with just a line where the break was.
Worked for me.
The base which sits against the side of the seat has a recess in it. I cut a piece of 1,0mm aluminium to fit into the recess and span the break. This was retained into the seatbelt guide using Araldite. To avoid getting Araldite on the leather I positioned a piece of polythene over the leather but under the bracket and held it in place with masking tape. By applying the Araldite to the aluminium before locating it in to recess on the bracket I avoided any Araldite showing. Some careful manipulation is needed to get everything lined up but after leaving overnight the polythene can be removed leaving a serviceable seatbelt guide with just a line where the break was.
Worked for me.