How to replace your self adjusting clutch - M52 post OCT '99

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phb10186
Joined: Sun 16 Sep, 2007 07:18
Posts: 383

  Z3 roadster 2.8
Location: London and Bournemouth

How to replace your self adjusting clutch - M52 post OCT '99

Post by phb10186 »

Well, my comments are as follows....

The car had a LUK clutch and DM-flywheel fitted by BMW from new. There is noway any of that stuff had been out before, and the parts I got were 100% identical direct replacement (except for the clutch bearing, which was slightly uprated and improved).

The 'LUK Repset' had a retaining piece to hold the self-adjusting mechanism from de-adjusting (which it would do while in transit, as it is in essence a cheap plastic ratchet system, that loosens with ease).

What I found on both clutches (straight out of the box) was too much de-adjustment, despite the locking star on the clutch, which is designed to prevent de-adjustment.

The plastic self-adjusting mechanism has about an inch of rotational travel (indicated by the compression of the three yellow springs on the clutch plate - compressed spring = mechanism compressed). This inch or roataion is equal to about 5mm of in-out travel of the limit of the finger-springs on the clutch plate itself - or about the amount of wear the clutch can take during it's life.

It seems that you have to re-set the ratchet to an extent prior to fitting the new clutch, even though it is supplied reset (in reality not re-set enough I maintain).

No special tools are needed other than a large 3 pronged bearing puller, and a couple of flat-head screwdrivers - I promise!

You can reset the clutch if you compress it to the extent that the self adjusting mechanism (circular grey plastic ring) can be rotated with a couple of screwdrivers. This can be seen by the outside face small yellow springs becomming compressed again (to a position greater reset than the box-fresh position).

Without doing this, the clutch would not move, and to uncover a secret - I ruined one cluch bearing in the process (it pulled itself apart if you think about what I have said).

So that meant I had to take everything apart again and see what the problem was.... and it was that adjustment I have spoken of - real PITA.

LUK do, however have very good customer service, but I can't explain why they come de-adjusted to the extent that prevents easy fitting.

The box of the clutch kit says that you need a special jig to change the clutch, and I guess if you had it, you wouldnt have this problem, as it fully resets the clutch prior to fitting, so that all you have to do is bolt it up.

That tool costs £400, while the clutch kit was £100, so clearly not worth it.

The bearing puller and screwdrivers are doing the same as the £400 tool. It's a pretty laim situation really. If I was a conspiracist, I would maintain that it was done deliberately to prevent the home mechanic from doing the job.... but it probably isn't.... but then again it might - I don't know.


If you take one thing from my experience, reset the clutch FULLY prior to fitting it, or you will be doing the job twice, as that clutch will not budge. You could read any number of clutch-bleed posts, and you would still have the same issue.

http://www.southern-exhausts.co.uk/Luk-Clutch.gif

If you see here - this s not the BMW one, but for the purposes of a how-to, the important bits to see on this picture are the 3 lugs with the yellow springs on (A), and the 12-15 or so vertical slits that look like hour positions on a clock (B).. the preloading star thing is absent on this picture.

So, to reset this piece of cool, what you would do is:

1. Compress the clutch fork springs (ones at the inner centre) with a bearing puller.... youll need a washer or something to act as a plate to compress all of them....

2. With it compressed, put the screwdrivers in two of these vertical slits (B) (inside which is the self adjusting mechanism - you will see this grey plastic ring thing)....

3. Rorate the screwdrivers clockwise as you look down at the plate, untill the yellow springs (A) won't compress further.... you should get about a cm or so of yellow spring compression.

-Oh yeah, and the only tool you really cant do without is a clutch centring tool - you defo need that, or you're in for some bad times.


OK, please read this thread and you will have all the know-how.... sorry I didn;y have the time to write a step-wise how to, but all the info you will need is here...... Good luck, and may the force (of your bearing puller) be with you.

http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18250
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1998 2.8 M52TU, pre-facelift, hard top, montreal blue, tan interior, 91K
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LUK clutch Info

Post by Guest »

Here's a link giving more information on the LUK self-adjusting clutch:

http://www.allpartsautomotive.co.uk/all ... AC)(1).pdf
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