Footwell Speakers Not Working...
- sundaydriver
- Joined: Fri 17 Feb, 2006 13:03
- Posts: 439
Footwell Speakers Not Working...
Hi guys,
Just notice the other day that my footwell speakers are not working (assuming they are fitted).
Anyone got any ideas on what the problem may be before I embark upon the 'dismantle the whole system' route
Just notice the other day that my footwell speakers are not working (assuming they are fitted).
Anyone got any ideas on what the problem may be before I embark upon the 'dismantle the whole system' route
Cheers,
sundaydriver.
sundaydriver.
- sundaydriver
- Joined: Fri 17 Feb, 2006 13:03
- Posts: 439
sundaydriver
The problem is quite common, the LF speaker has a separate amp attached to it, this plays up, some by-pass the amp, I have traced my same fault to the relay in the speaker amp, had a temp repair done a few weeks ago but only lasted about 3 weeks, have taken amp/speaker to a mate, now trying to locate a new relay, this is the cheapest way out, so if your rear and door speakers are still working it will be this amp to look at.
Check this link for starters. best of luck
viewtopic.php?t=9881&highlight=
The problem is quite common, the LF speaker has a separate amp attached to it, this plays up, some by-pass the amp, I have traced my same fault to the relay in the speaker amp, had a temp repair done a few weeks ago but only lasted about 3 weeks, have taken amp/speaker to a mate, now trying to locate a new relay, this is the cheapest way out, so if your rear and door speakers are still working it will be this amp to look at.
Check this link for starters. best of luck
viewtopic.php?t=9881&highlight=
Speaker problems
Hi Sundaydriver and Mitch . Mich , You've beat me to it ! Spunk M ' s Artical should sort you out , Let me know if you've time, if you find the speaker/relay is the fault, Cheers , Matchy.
Re: Footwell Speakers Not Working...
I'm experiencing the same problem. The sound keep cutting in and out. I liked to get it fixed but the guide on this thread seems to complex for me to understand and to follow. How much would a garage charge for this work to be carried out?sundaydriver wrote:Hi guys,
Just notice the other day that my footwell speakers are not working (assuming they are fitted).
Anyone got any ideas on what the problem may be before I embark upon the 'dismantle the whole system' route
Adam
<img src="http://www.battleofthebands.co.uk/z3/my_car.gif" width="491" height="139" />
adaml99 sundaydriver,
it dead easy to get the speaker out, remove top trim panel above drivers feet, then the panel in front of LF Speaker, 4 screws hold the speaker in, remove these, dont poke your finger through the speaker cone. you will see a plug that connects the main harness to the speaker harness, this is held together by a clip, be careful with this, there is a small tag that you depress to release the lever/clamp then you have to pivot this to clear the plug, if you take to a garage they should have it out in 10-15 min max. pics of offending relay[eer2c DC12v. 12a/125vac]
You have to remove speaker from amp as in the other thread
I will post as soon as I have located a replacement
it dead easy to get the speaker out, remove top trim panel above drivers feet, then the panel in front of LF Speaker, 4 screws hold the speaker in, remove these, dont poke your finger through the speaker cone. you will see a plug that connects the main harness to the speaker harness, this is held together by a clip, be careful with this, there is a small tag that you depress to release the lever/clamp then you have to pivot this to clear the plug, if you take to a garage they should have it out in 10-15 min max. pics of offending relay[eer2c DC12v. 12a/125vac]
You have to remove speaker from amp as in the other thread
I will post as soon as I have located a replacement
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Hi Mich. Googling for "eer2c-s12" turned up a number of electronics wholesalers who seem to think they can supply such a relay, but only in quantities of 1800! The manufacturer seems to be a company called Malory. I had a quick squiz at both Maplin and RS, but turned up nothing similar. It might be possible to use a relay of similar spec as long as it a) has the same pin-out and b) is in a similar sized package. Any chance you could do us a photo of the back of the relay? estocks may then be able to advise on what you may be able to use as a replacement. Thanks R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
Robert T,
The pin configuration is the problem, the unit is with my mate at the moment as he is the electronic wiz, I will see him to-day and ask him to send me some pics of the pins and will post here. As trickyb says 2nd hand could be a way but you are replacing with the same unit which has proved to be unreliable, I would prefer a better quality one, I also tried RS but could not find anything, will keep you updated when I have any thing to report.
The pin configuration is the problem, the unit is with my mate at the moment as he is the electronic wiz, I will see him to-day and ask him to send me some pics of the pins and will post here. As trickyb says 2nd hand could be a way but you are replacing with the same unit which has proved to be unreliable, I would prefer a better quality one, I also tried RS but could not find anything, will keep you updated when I have any thing to report.
Just for a laugh I thought I'd have a look and see if you can buy a new replacement speaker from BMW, and lo and behold you can, however you'll need deep pockets:
Woofer Left 65.13.8.410.689 $183.02 (right is only $49.38)
I'd say that would work out at over the £100 mark. A new relay would be a couple of quid. However, how many speakers could you buy from a scrappy (nice suggestion Tricky) for £100? Even if you had to buy three to get one that works you'd still be quids in! Note that you'd need to find a Z3 with "normal" speakers though - AFAIK neither the HiFi or the HK options have the amp on the speaker. Cheers R.
Woofer Left 65.13.8.410.689 $183.02 (right is only $49.38)
I'd say that would work out at over the £100 mark. A new relay would be a couple of quid. However, how many speakers could you buy from a scrappy (nice suggestion Tricky) for £100? Even if you had to buy three to get one that works you'd still be quids in! Note that you'd need to find a Z3 with "normal" speakers though - AFAIK neither the HiFi or the HK options have the amp on the speaker. Cheers R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
New relay found, fitted and going like new,
Cost Relay NZ$4.80 $20.00 to mate for labour.
Remove and fit speaker assy max 45-60 min
Fit new relay about 1 hr max.
NB you have to solder the relay, so this bit is best left to someone that knows what they are doing.
Have attached Pics, so if you want to keep to original equipment as I do, this is the way to go, PLUS save a bit of cash too
Cost Relay NZ$4.80 $20.00 to mate for labour.
Remove and fit speaker assy max 45-60 min
Fit new relay about 1 hr max.
NB you have to solder the relay, so this bit is best left to someone that knows what they are doing.
Have attached Pics, so if you want to keep to original equipment as I do, this is the way to go, PLUS save a bit of cash too
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
- Joined: Sun 30 Apr, 2006 10:06
- Posts: 22
- Location: cheltenham
relay from Maplin
I've just had the same problem. I fixed it by replacing the relay mentioned above. It was available at Maplin. The part number is JM 67. It cost £1.31. It is about a 1 to 1.5 hour job to change the little blighter.
-
- Joined: Sun 30 Apr, 2006 10:06
- Posts: 22
- Location: cheltenham
relay from Maplin
I've just had the same problem. I fixed it by replacing the relay mentioned above. It was available at Maplin. The part number is JM 67. It cost £1.31. It is about a 1 to 1.5 hour job to change the little blighter.
Re: relay from Maplin
Glad to see the posting was not in vain and helped you, mine is still going strong.Will777888 wrote:I've just had the same problem. I fixed it by replacing the relay mentioned above. It was available at Maplin. The part number is JM 67. It cost £1.31. It is about a 1 to 1.5 hour job to change the little blighter.
- sundaydriver
- Joined: Fri 17 Feb, 2006 13:03
- Posts: 439
Thanks for the info guys, I will get round to fixing mine too (I'm a dab hand with the old soldering iron!) - I promise , but I've got other things to do 1st like getting the rusty bits on my Zed sorted.mich wrote:Glad to see the posting was not in vain and helped you, mine is still going strong.Will777888 wrote:I've just had the same problem. I fixed it by replacing the relay mentioned above. It was available at Maplin. The part number is JM 67. It cost £1.31. It is about a 1 to 1.5 hour job to change the little blighter.
Cheers,
sundaydriver.
sundaydriver.
old thread resurrection! LOL!!!
I have the upgraded H&K system in my 2.8 Z3 and have noticed recently that there is no bass whatsoever! LOL!.. upon further inspection it would seem as though the aftermarket Kenwood unit that is in my car is only driving the front and rear tweeters!.. not a biggie as I've found this thread and am going to replace the kenwood with my Pioneer DVD unit and IPOD connector - so might as well do this at the same time.. I just want to check that this amp in the front left foot well drives the sub as well??..
EDIT: I think the actual Maplins code is: JM67X for anyone who needs one..
I have the upgraded H&K system in my 2.8 Z3 and have noticed recently that there is no bass whatsoever! LOL!.. upon further inspection it would seem as though the aftermarket Kenwood unit that is in my car is only driving the front and rear tweeters!.. not a biggie as I've found this thread and am going to replace the kenwood with my Pioneer DVD unit and IPOD connector - so might as well do this at the same time.. I just want to check that this amp in the front left foot well drives the sub as well??..
EDIT: I think the actual Maplins code is: JM67X for anyone who needs one..
No, the HK system is a different 'beastie' altogether. There are two amps in the boot. One for the main speakers and one for the subwoofer between the seats. If you have a lack of sound then it may be as simple as a fuse or the amps are not being told to switch on by the head unit. I would check the fuises and then take a look at the wiring behind the head unit to make sure all is well and that the amp remote is correctly connected.pangster wrote:old thread resurrection! LOL!!!
I have the upgraded H&K system in my 2.8 Z3 and have noticed recently that there is no bass whatsoever! LOL!.. upon further inspection it would seem as though the aftermarket Kenwood unit that is in my car is only driving the front and rear tweeters!.. not a biggie as I've found this thread and am going to replace the kenwood with my Pioneer DVD unit and IPOD connector - so might as well do this at the same time.. I just want to check that this amp in the front left foot well drives the sub as well??..
EDIT: I think the actual Maplins code is: JM67X for anyone who needs one..
Si.
Thanks Si! ..siwilson wrote:No, the HK system is a different 'beastie' altogether. There are two amps in the boot. One for the main speakers and one for the subwoofer between the seats. If you have a lack of sound then it may be as simple as a fuse or the amps are not being told to switch on by the head unit. I would check the fuises and then take a look at the wiring behind the head unit to make sure all is well and that the amp remote is correctly connected.pangster wrote:old thread resurrection! LOL!!!
I have the upgraded H&K system in my 2.8 Z3 and have noticed recently that there is no bass whatsoever! LOL!.. upon further inspection it would seem as though the aftermarket Kenwood unit that is in my car is only driving the front and rear tweeters!.. not a biggie as I've found this thread and am going to replace the kenwood with my Pioneer DVD unit and IPOD connector - so might as well do this at the same time.. I just want to check that this amp in the front left foot well drives the sub as well??..
EDIT: I think the actual Maplins code is: JM67X for anyone who needs one..
Si.
so are the front and back speakers driven by the headunit directly? and the footwell speakers and bass speaker driven by the amps??
I'm a little confused now! lol!.. where are the amps located about? - Any pics etc?? I had a look but couldn't find any specific information.. I'll have a proper root around tomorrow though..
I've just had a root around my car and looked at the stereo/harness. I also reset the stereo that was in and reconnected the harness (as one of the connections was quite loose).. the good news is all my speakers now work! - I can actually feel air coming from the 'snorkel' now!! LOL!
however - I now have another question - I think the stereo has been fitted with the wrong (cheaper) harness - can anyone confirm? - here's some pics:
Harness 1:
Harness 2:
Snorkel:
Rear speaker:
The harness that's been used to fit the stereo doesn't have any pre-outs on it??.. I 'think' the correct harness I need is this one:
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/wiring- ... rh1vdj9b97
But the harness that's been used is this one:
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/bmwrove ... -1283.html
Is this correct? or am I just confusing myself!! LOL!!!
however - I now have another question - I think the stereo has been fitted with the wrong (cheaper) harness - can anyone confirm? - here's some pics:
Harness 1:
Harness 2:
Snorkel:
Rear speaker:
The harness that's been used to fit the stereo doesn't have any pre-outs on it??.. I 'think' the correct harness I need is this one:
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/wiring- ... rh1vdj9b97
But the harness that's been used is this one:
http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/bmwrove ... -1283.html
Is this correct? or am I just confusing myself!! LOL!!!
I don't have the HK system but I'm sure I read here some where that one amp is in the passenger footwell and the other in the boot. Found these links might help.
http://www.z3ers.com/essentials/fixit/s ... pgrade.pdf
http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/produ ... _-_M80.pdf
http://www.z3ers.com/essentials/fixit/s ... pgrade.pdf
http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/produ ... _-_M80.pdf
thanks for the links! at least it gives me an idea of where all the components are..Althulas wrote:I don't have the HK system but I'm sure I read here some where that one amp is in the passenger footwell and the other in the boot. Found these links might help.
http://www.z3ers.com/essentials/fixit/s ... pgrade.pdf
http://www.bavariansoundwerks.com/produ ... _-_M80.pdf
can anyone confirm what wiring harness I should be using??
For the HK system, both amps are in the boot. There is no amp on the foot-well speaker as per the standard system. The subwoofer amp is on top of the CD changer in the boot, or if you don;t have a CD changer, its in that bulge that hangs down on the left had side. The other amp is behind the carpet on the left I believe.
for the HK system you should really use that alternative ISO adapter that connects into the pre-outs, but some have reported issues with it.
for the HK system you should really use that alternative ISO adapter that connects into the pre-outs, but some have reported issues with it.
Ok that makes sense! Thanks again Si!! What issues were there with the pre out harness?? I was just about to buy it as I've never hooked up my pioneer unit with anything other than pre outs...siwilson wrote:For the HK system, both amps are in the boot. There is no amp on the foot-well speaker as per the standard system. The subwoofer amp is on top of the CD changer in the boot, or if you don;t have a CD changer, its in that bulge that hangs down on the left had side. The other amp is behind the carpet on the left I believe.
for the HK system you should really use that alternative ISO adapter that connects into the pre-outs, but some have reported issues with it.
-
- Joined: Fri 18 Apr, 2008 19:24
- Posts: 1446
- Location: woking
My Off side footwell speakers dont have a feed anymore.
The speaker works as i hvae taken it ou and swapped it with the nearside one.
The tweeter in the door also doesnt work but then again I'm not sure it ever did, never listened out for it!
A frined of mine who is a car electronics trader said that it was probably the stereo, he doesnt sell them so has no interest in lying.
Is there anyway of checking.....?
I've read this thread but to be honest still none the wiser.
On another note
Are the ceiling speakers in my coupe supposed to work or are they just for show or does my stereo not send them a feed either?
Thanks
The speaker works as i hvae taken it ou and swapped it with the nearside one.
The tweeter in the door also doesnt work but then again I'm not sure it ever did, never listened out for it!
A frined of mine who is a car electronics trader said that it was probably the stereo, he doesnt sell them so has no interest in lying.
Is there anyway of checking.....?
I've read this thread but to be honest still none the wiser.
On another note
Are the ceiling speakers in my coupe supposed to work or are they just for show or does my stereo not send them a feed either?
Thanks
OK, so here's the scoop on how the speakers are wiring in the standard low spec setup.
The rear speakers are wired directly to the head unit rear output
The front door speakers (mid and tweeters) are wired directly to the head unit front output.
The front foot-well speakers are both connected to a small amp on the back of the left hand foot-well speaker. Wiring for both left and right channels from that small amp go to the head-unit in parallel with the door speakers.
So in this setup, the front door speakers (mid and tweeters) and the rear speakers are powered by the internal amp of the head-unit. The foot-well speakers are powered by a booster amp attached to the back of the left hand foot-well speaker. If you have a problem with this amp on the speaker then you will experience the front foot-well speakers not working, but the rear speakers and the door tweeters still working.
The upgraded HK system is totally different in that all speakers are powered by separate amps located in the boot. One amp powers the front door, foot-well and rear speakers. Another amp powers the sub between the seats on the roadster and in the back on the coupe.
The rear speakers are wired directly to the head unit rear output
The front door speakers (mid and tweeters) are wired directly to the head unit front output.
The front foot-well speakers are both connected to a small amp on the back of the left hand foot-well speaker. Wiring for both left and right channels from that small amp go to the head-unit in parallel with the door speakers.
So in this setup, the front door speakers (mid and tweeters) and the rear speakers are powered by the internal amp of the head-unit. The foot-well speakers are powered by a booster amp attached to the back of the left hand foot-well speaker. If you have a problem with this amp on the speaker then you will experience the front foot-well speakers not working, but the rear speakers and the door tweeters still working.
The upgraded HK system is totally different in that all speakers are powered by separate amps located in the boot. One amp powers the front door, foot-well and rear speakers. Another amp powers the sub between the seats on the roadster and in the back on the coupe.
I'm thinking that the reason my sounds so crap is because the wrong harness has been used and the amp is expecting high volt pre-out signals and all its getting is line level speaker signals.. definately going to invest in the other harness!!...siwilson wrote:OK, so here's the scoop on how the speakers are wiring in the standard low spec setup.
The rear speakers are wired directly to the head unit rear output
The front door speakers (mid and tweeters) are wired directly to the head unit front output.
The front foot-well speakers are both connected to a small amp on the back of the left hand foot-well speaker. Wiring for both left and right channels from that small amp go to the head-unit in parallel with the door speakers.
So in this setup, the front door speakers (mid and tweeters) and the rear speakers are powered by the internal amp of the head-unit. The foot-well speakers are powered by a booster amp attached to the back of the left hand foot-well speaker. If you have a problem with this amp on the speaker then you will experience the front foot-well speakers not working, but the rear speakers and the door tweeters still working.
The upgraded HK system is totally different in that all speakers are powered by separate amps located in the boot. One amp powers the front door, foot-well and rear speakers. Another amp powers the sub between the seats on the roadster and in the back on the coupe.
siwilson, I have a 1997 1.9 with what I believe is a standard really low spec (audio) setup. I took the passenger footwell speaker out and could not find an amplifier behind the speaker (and there is nothing in the boot).siwilson wrote:OK, so here's the scoop on how the speakers are wiring in the standard low spec setup.
The rear speakers are wired directly to the head unit rear output
The front door speakers (mid and tweeters) are wired directly to the head unit front output.
The front foot-well speakers are both connected to a small amp on the back of the left hand foot-well speaker. Wiring for both left and right channels from that small amp go to the head-unit in parallel with the door speakers.
So in this setup, the front door speakers (mid and tweeters) and the rear speakers are powered by the internal amp of the head-unit. The foot-well speakers are powered by a booster amp attached to the back of the left hand foot-well speaker. If you have a problem with this amp on the speaker then you will experience the front foot-well speakers not working, but the rear speakers and the door tweeters still working.
The upgraded HK system is totally different in that all speakers are powered by separate amps located in the boot. One amp powers the front door, foot-well and rear speakers. Another amp powers the sub between the seats on the roadster and in the back on the coupe.
I suspect I have the following
1) rear speakers wired directly to the head unit rear output
2) front door speakers wired directly to the head unit front output (not sure if they are mid and tweeters or just tweeters - can't hear them anyway).
3) front foot-well speakers also wired directly to the head unit front output
Presumably there is no cross-over unit so the front speakers sort themselves out frequency-wise.
Does that sound (no pun intended) right?
siwilson, I have a 1997 1.9 with what I believe is a standard really low spec (audio) setup. I took the passenger footwell speaker out and could not find an amplifier behind the speaker (and there is nothing in the boot).siwilson wrote:OK, so here's the scoop on how the speakers are wiring in the standard low spec setup.
The rear speakers are wired directly to the head unit rear output
The front door speakers (mid and tweeters) are wired directly to the head unit front output.
The front foot-well speakers are both connected to a small amp on the back of the left hand foot-well speaker. Wiring for both left and right channels from that small amp go to the head-unit in parallel with the door speakers.
So in this setup, the front door speakers (mid and tweeters) and the rear speakers are powered by the internal amp of the head-unit. The foot-well speakers are powered by a booster amp attached to the back of the left hand foot-well speaker. If you have a problem with this amp on the speaker then you will experience the front foot-well speakers not working, but the rear speakers and the door tweeters still working.
The upgraded HK system is totally different in that all speakers are powered by separate amps located in the boot. One amp powers the front door, foot-well and rear speakers. Another amp powers the sub between the seats on the roadster and in the back on the coupe.
I suspect I have the following
1) rear speakers wired directly to the head unit rear output
2) front door speakers wired directly to the head unit front output (not sure if they are mid and tweeters or just tweeters - can't hear them anyway).
3) front foot-well speakers also wired directly to the head unit front output
Presumably there is no cross-over unit so the front speakers sort themselves out frequency-wise.
Does that sound (no pun intended) right?
That must be a very early one then. Your assumptions are probably correct about all speakers being directly connected to the head unit. The footwell amp is only a booster for the foot-well speakers, so if its not there then you are just relying on the head-unit amp. IMO you are in a better position as it makes it a lot easier to replace the stock unit with an aftermarket one. You are correct about the lack of crossover. The tweeters in the door most likely have a capacitor somewhere in-line to cut out lower frequencies.
Si.
Si.
Thanks, Si, yes everything on my Z3 is basic - the pro to this is that there is less to go wrong (still got the leaking damper to sort out).siwilson wrote:That must be a very early one then. Your assumptions are probably correct about all speakers being directly connected to the head unit. The footwell amp is only a booster for the foot-well speakers, so if its not there then you are just relying on the head-unit amp. IMO you are in a better position as it makes it a lot easier to replace the stock unit with an aftermarket one. You are correct about the lack of crossover. The tweeters in the door most likely have a capacitor somewhere in-line to cut out lower frequencies.
Si.
As you say it was easy to replace the stock BMW Business head (and CD player in boot), so I already have, with a Sony-CDX-DAB6650 which works a treat on DAB, with DAB aerial convertor on the standard aerial, and with my Ipod, through the AUX connector.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sony-CDX-DAB665 ... B0007P538M
They now have an Ipod version of this Sony as well, DAB6650i, which I would have bought if was around at the time
http://www.icebuyer.co.uk/cdxdab6650i-c ... 11181.html
Anyway, re tweeters, I beleive I read a thread somewhere that indicated that failure of the tweeter capacitor stops the door tweeters working.
To get round this tweeter failure, my plan is to replace the footwell speakers with some better aftermarket ones, and add matching tweeters to the dashboard, both on the front speaker circuits, via crossovers.
Infinity Reference 5010cs componet speakers like this look good value.
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/produc ... /3828.html
The door tweeters will have to be disconnected.
Step 2 maybe to add an amp to the boot (I have been given a 70W Kenwood Amp), drive that from the pre-outs of the Sony headunit and use the amp to drive the front speakers. The rear speakers can stay connected to the head unit. Just need to plan the cabling layout/connection.
Foggy: how are you getting on with your upgrade??
I got my new harness (upgraded one for using with pre-outs/HK system) and should be installing my Pioneer headunit and Pioneer iPod adaptor this weekend.. as well as changing the 2 HVAC bulbs whilst I'm at it! LOL!!
With any luck it should sound semi-decent and will do me for a while!
I got my new harness (upgraded one for using with pre-outs/HK system) and should be installing my Pioneer headunit and Pioneer iPod adaptor this weekend.. as well as changing the 2 HVAC bulbs whilst I'm at it! LOL!!
With any luck it should sound semi-decent and will do me for a while!
pangster (name right this time... though rangster sounds good as well).pangster wrote:Foggy: how are you getting on with your upgrade??
I got my new harness (upgraded one for using with pre-outs/HK system) and should be installing my Pioneer headunit and Pioneer iPod adaptor this weekend.. as well as changing the 2 HVAC bulbs whilst I'm at it! LOL!!
With any luck it should sound semi-decent and will do me for a while!
My Sony head unit has been in a while (though I am now worried about heater control bulb failure - two new ones out in - as I installed the Sony cage as well, which will be a pain to remove and re-install ).
As I don't have the luxury of a HK system (I initially thought people were talking about some system from Hong Kong ) the harness adaptor I used was the standard one - phono Amp pre-outs are on the back of the Sony head unit.
I have also wired in an IPod power adaptor which connects to the Sony’s AUX in phonos. This then gives me connection to the IPod via the bottom multi-pin connector for audio and power; so I can use the multi-pin IPod connector
The rest has been investigation/planning work to date.
The intent is to lay some cables for the proposed Amp whilst I have seats out for the shish-kebab mod, though I need to do some research on car audio cable separation (just in case crosstalk is an issue). Will probably isolate the front speakers at the harness (by cutting the wires and installing bullet connectors in case I need to reconnect them) then wire the Amp speaker cables, via the crossovers directly to the new speakers (again isolating the existing speaker wiring at the back of the existing speakers).
Saying all that, I may start with putting in the new speakers/crossovers in first and see how it goes without a seperate Amp.
Anyway good look with your install and build change. Are you removing the CD player in the boot, if you have one? Releases a bit of boot space. Let us know how you get on and how it sounds.
LOL!!! r.e. name! - I thought you'd see the funny side!Foggy wrote:pangster (name right this time... though rangster sounds good as well).pangster wrote:Foggy: how are you getting on with your upgrade??
I got my new harness (upgraded one for using with pre-outs/HK system) and should be installing my Pioneer headunit and Pioneer iPod adaptor this weekend.. as well as changing the 2 HVAC bulbs whilst I'm at it! LOL!!
With any luck it should sound semi-decent and will do me for a while!
My Sony head unit has been in a while (though I am now worried about heater control bulb failure - two new ones out in - as I installed the Sony cage as well, which will be a pain to remove and re-install ).
As I don't have the luxury of a HK system (I initially thought people were talking about some system from Hong Kong ) the harness adaptor I used was the standard one - phono Amp pre-outs are on the back of the Sony head unit.
I have also wired in an IPod power adaptor which connects to the Sony’s AUX in phonos. This then gives me connection to the IPod via the bottom multi-pin connector for audio and power; so I can use the multi-pin IPod connector
The rest has been investigation/planning work to date.
The intent is to lay some cables for the proposed Amp whilst I have seats out for the shish-kebab mod, though I need to do some research on car audio cable separation (just in case crosstalk is an issue). Will probably isolate the front speakers at the harness (by cutting the wires and installing bullet connectors in case I need to reconnect them) then wire the Amp speaker cables, via the crossovers directly to the new speakers (again isolating the existing speaker wiring at the back of the existing speakers).
Saying all that, I may start with putting in the new speakers/crossovers in first and see how it goes without a seperate Amp.
Anyway good look with your install and build change. Are you removing the CD player in the boot, if you have one? Releases a bit of boot space. Let us know how you get on and how it sounds.
I think the amp and new speakers will probably a world of difference in your set up.. I've not heard anyone complain when they upgrade these in the Z3 for some reason?..
I don't have the multi-CD system in my car.. although it is pre-wired for it apparently!.. hopefully it'll be nice and dry over the weekend so I can get the install done and dusted and then give it a proper road test!!
Pungster , should have added that I'm just looking for quality rather than quantity (volume) so maybe new speakers will initially help. My Z3 doesn't go as fast as yours, or sound as loud. What front speakers do you have (or will have)?pangster wrote: LOL!!! r.e. name! - I thought you'd see the funny side!
I think the amp and new speakers will probably a world of difference in your set up.. I've not heard anyone complain when they upgrade these in the Z3 for some reason?..
I don't have the multi-CD system in my car.. although it is pre-wired for it apparently!.. hopefully it'll be nice and dry over the weekend so I can get the install done and dusted and then give it a proper road test!!
As for the weekend, bound to rain now . You can watch the rugby then .
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I'm going to see how my head unit sounds with the HK system and then judge it from there..Foggy wrote:Pungster , should have added that I'm just looking for quality rather than quantity (volume) so maybe new speakers will initially help. My Z3 doesn't go as fast as yours, or sound as loud. What front speakers do you have (or will have)?pangster wrote: LOL!!! r.e. name! - I thought you'd see the funny side!
I think the amp and new speakers will probably a world of difference in your set up.. I've not heard anyone complain when they upgrade these in the Z3 for some reason?..
I don't have the multi-CD system in my car.. although it is pre-wired for it apparently!.. hopefully it'll be nice and dry over the weekend so I can get the install done and dusted and then give it a proper road test!!
As for the weekend, bound to rain now . You can watch the rugby then .
all done:Foggy wrote:Pangster, okay, thanks. Good luck.
http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... 322#189322
fairly happy with the SQ just now! it is 100 times better than what was in!!
I also changed the HVAC bulbs... what a PITA that is!! I took me longer to change the 2 HVAC bulbs than it did to fit my stereo!!
pangster (got the name right again ), look at your other post, all very neat and tidy, and looks good as wellpangster wrote:all done:Foggy wrote:Pangster, okay, thanks. Good luck.
http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... 322#189322
fairly happy with the SQ just now! it is 100 times better than what was in!!
I also changed the HVAC bulbs... what a PITA that is!! I took me longer to change the 2 HVAC bulbs than it did to fit my stereo!!
Yeap. bulb replacement is a pain. Will you be able to do it again now you have your new headunit in? As indicated above my Sony unit was installed with the cage unit, which I have preaned into place, so will be a pain to take out and then re-instal
I kept the old (failed) bulbs and holders with the idea of modifying them by putting LEDS in the holders instead of the bulbs, when I have some spare time .
I put mine in with the cage as well - although I have a tool which can hook round and pull the tabs back so should be too bad if I ever need to take it out again.. I'm kind of hoping that these ones will last 10 years or so.. just like the old ones!! LOL!!Foggy wrote:pangster (got the name right again ), look at your other post, all very neat and tidy, and looks good as wellpangster wrote:all done:Foggy wrote:Pangster, okay, thanks. Good luck.
http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... 322#189322
fairly happy with the SQ just now! it is 100 times better than what was in!!
I also changed the HVAC bulbs... what a PITA that is!! I took me longer to change the 2 HVAC bulbs than it did to fit my stereo!!
Yeap. bulb replacement is a pain. Will you be able to do it again now you have your new headunit in? As indicated above my Sony unit was installed with the cage unit, which I have preaned into place, so will be a pain to take out and then re-instal
I kept the old (failed) bulbs and holders with the idea of modifying them by putting LEDS in the holders instead of the bulbs, when I have some spare time .
Pangster, thanks. Didn't get a tool for my cage so used needle-nosed pliers to push the many cut-out lugs, in the cage, into place (so will have to lever them all out again with a suitable tool - screwdriver or pliers again - when the time comes ).pangster wrote:I put mine in with the cage as well - although I have a tool which can hook round and pull the tabs back so should be too bad if I ever need to take it out again.. I'm kind of hoping that these ones will last 10 years or so.. just like the old ones!! LOL!!Foggy wrote:pangster (got the name right again ), look at your other post, all very neat and tidy, and looks good as wellpangster wrote: all done:
http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... 322#189322
fairly happy with the SQ just now! it is 100 times better than what was in!!
I also changed the HVAC bulbs... what a PITA that is!! I took me longer to change the 2 HVAC bulbs than it did to fit my stereo!!
Yeap. bulb replacement is a pain. Will you be able to do it again now you have your new headunit in? As indicated above my Sony unit was installed with the cage unit, which I have preaned into place, so will be a pain to take out and then re-instal
I kept the old (failed) bulbs and holders with the idea of modifying them by putting LEDS in the holders instead of the bulbs, when I have some spare time .
My bulbs were out when I got the car so could have failed several years ago, but let's hope 10 years is the norm.