engine revving on its own
engine revving on its own
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Hi all, my engine on my 2.8 Z3 has just starting to rev on its own between 1750 and up to 2750 revs. Any ideas please. When warm it ticks over normally then goes into a mind of its own, up to 2750 and back down to 1750 revs. any help will be appreciated. Cheers
Hi all, my engine on my 2.8 Z3 has just starting to rev on its own between 1750 and up to 2750 revs. Any ideas please. When warm it ticks over normally then goes into a mind of its own, up to 2750 and back down to 1750 revs. any help will be appreciated. Cheers
- Justin Time
- Joined: Thu 22 Jun, 2006 20:34
- Posts: 2183
- Location: Kent
If all that fails.............................Exorcism !
Gazza
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you"
Z3 S54 M roadster , BMW Z1, BMW M3 CSL, Z4M Coupe
"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car, oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you"
Z3 S54 M roadster , BMW Z1, BMW M3 CSL, Z4M Coupe
Sorry for placing in wrong forum.
Just an add on to my original question, most of solutions seem to be for cold running problems, my Z3 runs perfect until it gets up to running temperature, and then the revs go crazy, I dont wish to sound ungrateful for responses, but i'm not to knowledgeable on mechnics of a car. Cheers
Just an add on to my original question, most of solutions seem to be for cold running problems, my Z3 runs perfect until it gets up to running temperature, and then the revs go crazy, I dont wish to sound ungrateful for responses, but i'm not to knowledgeable on mechnics of a car. Cheers
Also have a check to make sure that the throttle is closing off properly - you should be able to operate the throttle linkage from under the bonnet (mind your fingers!) - if it is properly closed off, then I would expect to start looking at all the components that supply fuel air mixture - ICV, MAF, Lambda, injectors, and ECU. Cam position sensor would seem unlikely if it is running smoothly - this tends to cause uneven running (at best) and non-running (at worst).
The reason I suggest the throttle itself is as having had the carb and other ancillaries off my other car, I eventually found my sticking throttle was due to the extra bit of throttle cable catching and stopping the throttle returning to the fully closed position - the simplest things often cause the most head scratching...
Cheers R.
The reason I suggest the throttle itself is as having had the carb and other ancillaries off my other car, I eventually found my sticking throttle was due to the extra bit of throttle cable catching and stopping the throttle returning to the fully closed position - the simplest things often cause the most head scratching...
Cheers R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
If it's not the ICV, then check it could be one of the leads running to it, or the airbox sensor.
Is the air intake ducting all ok? I had a 2 inch hole in mine when I took it out, and made the car run terrible.
ICV is the correct area to look
'Replace cam shaft sensor' the generic 'Fix-all' for BMW's
Is the air intake ducting all ok? I had a 2 inch hole in mine when I took it out, and made the car run terrible.
ICV is the correct area to look
'Replace cam shaft sensor' the generic 'Fix-all' for BMW's
1998 2.8 M52TU, pre-facelift, hard top, montreal blue, tan interior, 91K