Is this the right place to re set the alarm?

ms.smally · Post by **ms.smally** » Mon 12 Apr, 2010 11:22

I have had the problem with a dealer fitted alarm (seperate fobs) going out of sync after the batteries in the fobs went dead. I have followed the instructions on here as best as I can but when ever I jump the pins either nothing happens or the alarm just goes off.

Can someone please confirm if I am looking at the correct 8 pins, and if so which ones do I need to jump (bottom left to 2nd from bottom right etc)

Sorry to ask a question that I know has been covered a lot already but I just cant figure out what I am doing wrong. Here is where I am:

Althulas · Post by **Althulas** » Mon 12 Apr, 2010 12:59

I had a similar problem where my fob was not recognised and solved it doing the following.

If you scroll down this thread http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... larm+reset and look at the picture of the box you will see a rubber bung on top. If you remove this bung and look inside the hole you will see a switch. If you move the switch over you can then re intialise you fob by pressing the arm button then the off button. If you have two alarm fobs disarm with the second fob so both fobs are now recognised by the alrm system. then slide the switch back in the alrm box to how it was and replace the rubber bung.

estocks · Post by **estocks** » Mon 12 Apr, 2010 13:03

Jumping the pins is for US market alarms. Follow the rubber bung route.

ms.smally · Post by **ms.smally** » Mon 12 Apr, 2010 13:24

the problem is that the alarm is armed and neither fob is being recognised so I cant turn it off and as far as I know, the reprogramming can't be done until the alarm is disarmed (is this right?)

I was under the impression that it was the jumping of the pins that was needed to dis arm the alarm in order to allow it to go into 'learn'mode.

I did try flicking the switch any using the fobs anyway and nothing happened.

estocks · Post by **estocks** » Mon 12 Apr, 2010 13:25

Doesn't putting the key in the ignition and starting disarm the alarm? My memory is a little rusty.

ms.smally · Post by **ms.smally** » Mon 12 Apr, 2010 13:27

estocks wrote:Doesn't putting the key in the ignition and starting disarm the alarm? My memory is a little rusty.

I think the alarm and immobiliser are entirely independant. The chip in the key de activates the imobiliser (hence why you cant start the car with a screwdriver) but as far as I know the actual alarm is operated soley by the fobs, but I could be wrong.

Post by **Robert T** » Mon 12 Apr, 2010 13:37

I think the key in the ignition reset only applies to the later alarm with the fob integrated into the key. The earlier alarm is entirely independent of the rest of the cars systems including the immobiliser. Don't know how to unset it, sorry.

Cheers R.

Geoff H · Post by **Geoff H** » Mon 12 Apr, 2010 14:21

The alarm can be switched off using the code on a plastic "credit card" which is in a yellow envelope
(photo here http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... ht=#233694.)
I will get my alarm handbook out and scan the page telling you how to do it, if you don't have one. But you need the code, hopefully in your manual folder, for your alarm

gelertd1 · Post by **gelertd1** » Mon 12 Apr, 2010 18:30

I'm part way doing the same thing - just waiting of a new remote to be delivered - in the meantime I have removed the glovebox and disarmed the alarm ready for coding.

The photo that you have posted looks like the rear of the alarm module with the smaller of the two multi plugs disconnected. Although when you remove this multiplug it reveals 8 pins these aren't the pins that need bridging to disarm the alarm.

Sitting in the passenger seat with all doors, boot and bonnet closed I would plug the multiplug back in and then look for the receiver which forms part of the alarm module that you have just plugged the multiplug back into - it has a single black wire moulded into it which I believe acts as the aerial to receive signals from your remote - at first sight it doesn't look like its a separate part of the alarm module.

If you gently and evenly prise this away from the alarm module it will reveal 8 long thin pins (the alarm will normally sound for around 30 seconds when the receiver is removed).

Once the pins are revealed it is trial error to find which ones are '1', '6' and '8'. On mine I found bridging 1 and 6 armed the alarm but bridging 1 and 8 didn't disarm, this naturally resulted in lots of alarm sounding as I repeatedly got in and out of the car.

Eventually reading one of the alarm threads on the forum revealed a member had the same problem as me. He/she resolved the problem by bridging several pins together and then bridging these in turn to 8. I tried this and believe I bridged 1,2,3,4,5 to 8 and got my alarm to disarm - really it's just trial and error but not helped by the rather cramped and gloomy conditions in the passenger footwell.

That's the stage I'm at - hopefully tomorrow I can get my remotes coded in.

As far as I can see once disarmed it's a case of following the rest of the instructions - flick the coding switch (behind rubber bung), reassemble receiver to module, press red buttons on each remote, flick coding switch back, replace rubber bung - and before putting everything back test the remotes.

Hopefully everything will work OK. Let us know how you get on.

gelertd1 · Post by **gelertd1** » Mon 12 Apr, 2010 18:41

Ooops double post

ms.smally · Post by **ms.smally** » Mon 12 Apr, 2010 20:00

brilliant, thanks for that info, too late to check it now but I know exactly the part you mean. Will have another go tomorrow.
Thanks again, very helpful!

Geoff H · Post by **Geoff H** » Mon 12 Apr, 2010 20:36

Have posted instruction in case they are of any use, but they are more to disarm the alarm without going behind the glove box. As you have the glove box off then gelertd1's post is far better for you and very useful to anybody else doing this job

estocks · Post by **estocks** » Mon 12 Apr, 2010 20:59

Shorting pins willy-nilly is a really bad idea if you want the thing to work afterwards. You may get lucky. And you may not.

gelertd1 · Post by **gelertd1** » Tue 13 Apr, 2010 10:32

Wise words from estocks regarding willy nilly bridging of the pins.

However, my decision to do so was based on a member's sucessful use of the method and the fact that rather than bridging terminals on a live electrical relay for example, this was simply replicating a signal from a remote with hopefully, the worst that could happen was a confused remote!

Anyway my new remote arrived 10 minutes ago - and following the rest of the coding instructions both remotes were learnt by the alarm module and I have a fully working alarm system (my car came with one non-working remote and a disarmed alarm - I only armed it by bridging the pins 1 and 6 - something it appears I need not have done

). Just got to put everything back now.

As a final point and to learn from my experience - if your alarm is disarmed i.e the LED on the dashboard is not flashing just remove the rubber bung and switch the coding switch over, press the red button on your remote (you can hear it being recognised/arming the alarm), switch the switch back - job done. The bridging of the pins is only to disarm the alarm (when the remote has lost its code/battery and the alarm is armed or the numpty of an owner fiddles

) as it appears that the module cannot learn new a remote whilst in an armed state.

ms.smally · Post by **ms.smally** » Tue 13 Apr, 2010 11:09

well........
I have now located the correct 8 pins (yay!) but when I short them, absolutely nothing happens (boo!)
Getting peeved now......(grrr)

gelertd1 · Post by **gelertd1** » Tue 13 Apr, 2010 12:11

On mine 1 and 6 armed the alarm and locked the doors and boot with the central locking (sat in the passenger seat with both doors, bonnet and boot shut) and set the LED on the dash flashing.

Bridging 1 and 8 did nothing (although its supposed to disarm the alarm and activate the central locking to open the doors). So I unlocked the passenger door reaching through the open window and using the key which opened the doors via the central locking. Getting out of the car then set the alarm off.

Sat back in the car (sat in the passenger seat with both doors, bonnet and boot shut) a little experimentation revealed that although bridging 1 to 6 didn't do anything anymore, connecting something like 3 or 4 to 6 confirmed the arming of the system - flashing of the indicators and a double 'chirp' from the alarm (although the central locking didn't activate this time) the LED stayed flashing on the dashboard throughout.

It was at this point that I sought further info from the forum and came across this addition to the alarm thread from member 'michael mcgovern' who stated - i got it to disarm in the end by using two strips of wire instead of one and randomly covering various pins, im not 1 percent what ones i covered but almost certain i had them all covered except 7 so 1-6 with one wire then 8 on its own. not saying it wasnt actually covering them all but its what i gathered in the moment of madness.

I used a thin piece of steel (actually a thin radio removal tool) and tried the above suggestion - using the thin piece of steel to bridge the pins and then a piece of wire to connect these 'bridged' pins to 8. Yes it is very fiddly (and my fingers weren't designed for such delicate tasks).

After a few goes and for no apparent reason, because I'm sure I bridged the same combination before to 8, the alarm suddenly chirped once and the alarm LED went out and stayed out.

This was followed by a ceremonial but yet rather childish punching of the air with a loud shout of 'Yes!'.

Getting the alarm module back into its cradle and screwed back in just now was fun - not!

Keep trying.

gelertd1 · Post by **gelertd1** » Tue 13 Apr, 2010 12:15

Oh and pin 1 was the one nearest the outer of the module and pin 8 the one nearest the centre of the module - if that makes sense?

Geoff H · Post by **Geoff H** » Tue 13 Apr, 2010 17:12

ms.smally wrote:well........
I have now located the correct 8 pins (yay!) but when I short them, absolutely nothing happens (boo!)
Getting peeved now......(grrr)

Why not try the deactivating with a code first, as in my posts, then sync the fobs as in the instructions you have

ms.smally · Post by **ms.smally** » Tue 13 Apr, 2010 20:36

Geoff H wrote:
Why not try the deactivating with a code first, as in my posts, then sync the fobs as in the instructions you have

sadly, I dont have the codes