Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
I have the 3G EWS system with the old `housebrick' remote.
Yesterday remote would not dis-arm system - led not illuminating on remote. Opened door with key and silenced audible alarm under the bonnet but then left with hazard lights operating every time I opened a door,boot,bonnet or acoustic sensors triggered as system still armed.
Started to look at previous topics on shorting reset or fuse removal but instead changed battery in remote and basically fiddled about a bit and `hey presto' it started working.
Went into my garage this morning and found car unlocked and alarms disabled - definitely armed and locked last night and remote was in house all night
Tried to enable alarm with remote but nothing. Noticed that LED on remote continually flickering - goes steady when either button held down but no effect on car.
So do I buy new housebrick (OEM 82 92 9 404 882)- dealer quoted as ~£52 plus coding £70+? or could it be the receiver and I am wasting my money. Any way of checking?
Cheers
Yesterday remote would not dis-arm system - led not illuminating on remote. Opened door with key and silenced audible alarm under the bonnet but then left with hazard lights operating every time I opened a door,boot,bonnet or acoustic sensors triggered as system still armed.
Started to look at previous topics on shorting reset or fuse removal but instead changed battery in remote and basically fiddled about a bit and `hey presto' it started working.
Went into my garage this morning and found car unlocked and alarms disabled - definitely armed and locked last night and remote was in house all night
Tried to enable alarm with remote but nothing. Noticed that LED on remote continually flickering - goes steady when either button held down but no effect on car.
So do I buy new housebrick (OEM 82 92 9 404 882)- dealer quoted as ~£52 plus coding £70+? or could it be the receiver and I am wasting my money. Any way of checking?
Cheers
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
Sounds as if you have sticky buttons, you can buy new cases inc buttons of eBay but it is maybe worth stripping you old one apart and giving it a good clean. Dirt can get trapped in between the button and case which stops the buttons from working properly.
HTH
HTH
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
Thanks Brian - I'll give that try.Brian H wrote:Sounds as if you have sticky buttons, you can buy new cases inc buttons of eBay but it is maybe worth stripping you old one apart and giving it a good clean. Dirt can get trapped in between the button and case which stops the buttons from working properly.
HTH
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
Buttons cleaned out - brief period of LED permanently on but then ok - flickering stopped and LED only on when a button is depressed.Brian H wrote:Sounds as if you have sticky buttons, you can buy new cases inc buttons of eBay but it is maybe worth stripping you old one apart and giving it a good clean. Dirt can get trapped in between the button and case which stops the buttons from working properly.
HTH
Bad news is still not working - remote not `talking' to receiver. Fuses Ok - error codes checked using INPA but nothing showing.
- BladeRunner919
- Joined: Fri 17 Feb, 2012 20:18
- Posts: 2225
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
You may have to re-synch the fob. Have a look at:
http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=31422
http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=31422
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
INPA is unlikely to help with the earlier alarm as it is an independent system. The integrated fob type is tied in to the cars electronics and I know you can see which sensor triggered the alarm with it, though I have yet to reproduce the diagnostic screen my dealer printed for me with INPA.
It does indeed sound like the alarm has lost sync with the remote.
Cheers R.
It does indeed sound like the alarm has lost sync with the remote.
Cheers R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
Thanks for comments BladeRunner and RT.
I have tried the re-synch of holding both buttons down for 10+ secs and that doesn't work - so it looks like glovebox out.
I agree Robert on INPA - the only screens I can access are the ones you have shown in KB 'How to...'.
It may be covered in text I have yet to read, but do you know how to program (DIY) a new fob? I have the original BMW Installation Certificate which includes a Transmitter Code `VER 58***' and under batch number it says `KEY 04***' but on their own they do not mean anything.
Cheers
I have tried the re-synch of holding both buttons down for 10+ secs and that doesn't work - so it looks like glovebox out.
I agree Robert on INPA - the only screens I can access are the ones you have shown in KB 'How to...'.
It may be covered in text I have yet to read, but do you know how to program (DIY) a new fob? I have the original BMW Installation Certificate which includes a Transmitter Code `VER 58***' and under batch number it says `KEY 04***' but on their own they do not mean anything.
Cheers
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
Programming a new fob is quite simple, but to gain access to the programming switch is a pain. On the 3GEWS there is a small switch that you move across, once in programming mode you sync all your remote to the car (max 4 I believe). Flick the switch back to the normal position and hey presto all your fobs should work.
The post below shows the alarm box, the small round rubber bung is covereing the programming switch, FYI, when I did mine I did not short out and wires, open and close doors, remove the receiver module etc. etc.
http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... 06#p187706
PM me your email address and I will send you a how to guide for a E36, although not totally relevant, the part that tells you how to sync your remote is.
Brian
Edit:
Here are the Instructions, section 5 onward . Note: I did not remove the receiver module.
The post below shows the alarm box, the small round rubber bung is covereing the programming switch, FYI, when I did mine I did not short out and wires, open and close doors, remove the receiver module etc. etc.
http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopi ... 06#p187706
PM me your email address and I will send you a how to guide for a E36, although not totally relevant, the part that tells you how to sync your remote is.
Brian
Edit:
Here are the Instructions, section 5 onward . Note: I did not remove the receiver module.
Last edited by Brian H on Mon 12 Aug, 2013 09:05, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
Thanks Brian - Brilliant.
- BladeRunner919
- Joined: Fri 17 Feb, 2012 20:18
- Posts: 2225
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
Jonco wrote: It may be covered in text I have yet to read, but do you know how to program (DIY) a new fob?
The link I posted was for how to programmes fobs, existing or new.
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
Forgot about this, must be getting oldBladeRunner919 wrote:You may have to re-synch the fob. Have a look at:
http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=31422
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
Aren't we all but the alternative doesn't appeal to me.Brian H wrote: ......... must be getting old
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
Sorted and working again- Thanks for all the advice - would never have found the switch head - was very difficult to see even with box out. Somebody had obviously been in there before - assortment of screws and a few missing. Also found a 40amp fuse only partially engaged, However when I looked it up it seems to be for auxillary fan - which I don't have.
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
Hello all, on the topic of the 3G EWS alarm system. When I bought my Z3 three weeks ago there was no fob with the car. I bought the housebrick from local BMW parts stockist and followed all the steps from 5upwards, eventually the control unit recognised the fob. The problem now is the alarm will not arm unless I hold the fob right next to or touching the ariel on the receiver, which is no use if trying to set the alarm outside the vehicle. I wondered if any of you have had this problem. It's as if the command signal is too weak to be picked up. I've reached the point of considering buying a new alarm system but would prefer one that would replace the Gemel . Apparently Meta have taken them over, I wondered if they market an equivalent to the 3G EWS. I can't get any info from anywhere, have any of you folks got any ideas ? neilyboy
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
Hi neilyboy,
Welcome to the forum
Sounds to me like you have a weak transmitter fob, however where abouts is your alarm aerial located, from memory on my old car it ran up the near side windscreen pillar.
Welcome to the forum
Sounds to me like you have a weak transmitter fob, however where abouts is your alarm aerial located, from memory on my old car it ran up the near side windscreen pillar.
- BladeRunner919
- Joined: Fri 17 Feb, 2012 20:18
- Posts: 2225
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
neilyboy wrote:Hello all, on the topic of the 3G EWS alarm system. When I bought my Z3 three weeks ago there was no fob with the car. I bought the housebrick from local BMW parts stockist and followed all the steps from 5upwards, eventually the control unit recognised the fob. The problem now is the alarm will not arm unless I hold the fob right next to or touching the ariel on the receiver, which is no use if trying to set the alarm outside the vehicle. I wondered if any of you have had this problem. It's as if the command signal is too weak to be picked up. I've reached the point of considering buying a new alarm system but would prefer one that would replace the Gemel . Apparently Meta have taken them over, I wondered if they market an equivalent to the 3G EWS. I can't get any info from anywhere, have any of you folks got any ideas ? neilyboy
Have you tried a new battery in the fob?
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
As Brian says the cable runs up the pillar. On mine there are several spare coils alongside the transmitter***.Brian H wrote:..........
Sounds to me like you have a weak transmitter fob, however where abouts is your alarm aerial located, from memory on my old car it ran up the near side windscreen pillar.
Further to Bladerunner's comment - with a new battery my range is 15 to 20 metres. During my problems it actually unlocked the car from inside the house! With the old battery I had to be alongside the car. Due to take delivery of a new OEM fob on Thursday - will update with outcome.
HTH
EDIT ***- oops receiver not transmitter
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
Thanks Brian, that's interesting because it looks as if the cable running up the pillar has been cut on my alarm, I don't think it has the original alarm anyway, it has a label with 1994 stuck to it, the car being registered 1998. The ariel fitted is about a foot long, halfway along it has had a piece of sheathed copper wire joined to it with a yellow plastic end, it actually looks quite professionally done which has more or less convinced me it is right. I am very tempted to join the two co-axial cables to re-instate the original ariel. I really would like to get hold of a new reciever and some info about tuning the fob to the reciever, probably too much to expect but here's hoping. neilyboy
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
Reconnecting the existing aerial would be a good start, got any pictures of the cable that has been jointed? From memory the aerial looks like a thin single insulated wire.neilyboy wrote:Thanks Brian, that's interesting because it looks as if the cable running up the pillar has been cut on my alarm, I don't think it has the original alarm anyway, it has a label with 1994 stuck to it, the car being registered 1998. The ariel fitted is about a foot long, halfway along it has had a piece of sheathed copper wire joined to it with a yellow plastic end, it actually looks quite professionally done which has more or less convinced me it is right. I am very tempted to join the two co-axial cables to re-instate the original ariel. I really would like to get hold of a new reciever and some info about tuning the fob to the reciever, probably too much to expect but here's hoping. neilyboy
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
If it is an original BMW alarm it will have the BMW logo on it and the OEM numbers. On mine (dec 97 build) the main unit is OEM 82 91 9 408 596 and the receiver unit which plugs into it is OEM 82 92 9 404 903.Brian H wrote:neilyboy wrote:.......... I don't think it has the original alarm anyway, ....................
Reconnecting the existing aerial would be a good start, got any pictures of the cable that has been jointed? From memory the aerial looks like a thin single insulated wire.
Brian - you are right about the cable. I have just tried to add some close-up pics to the post but I'm getting the invalid message - probably me doing it wrong. if you pm me an email address I could send them that way.
Cheers
Colin
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
hi Colin, the numbers on my alarm control are the same as your's but the numbers on the receiver unit are different. I can see that another alarm has been fitted to my car at some time because it is dated 2004, My car being a 1998. I have made extensive enquiries about a new receiver through BMW outlets but get told alarm parts are no longer available. I have decided to give up on the Gemel system and install a Viper alarm. As most of the wiring to the central locking, immobiliser, keyless entry are already in place, I would like to utilise them to save taking the car apart to find where they actually connect into the wiring of the car. The big question is: does anyone out there have knowledge of the EWS wiring colour codes ? I'm pretty sure the EWS alarm control works but it won't match the receiver that's fitted to it. It recognised the new fob I bought for it, but will only arm or disarm by holding the fob right against the receiver ariel, which is no use at all. If any of you Z3 enthusiasts knows the colour codes I would be very grateful to hear from you. If anyone needs a Gemel control unit and a new fob get back to me. neilyboy
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
The immobiliser is the same on all Z3s, but it is entirely independent of the alarm system on the early housebrick type remote alarm - it works by reading a chip in the key, not by arming the alarm. All the remainder of the wiring for the door, boot, bonnet and stereo switches will already have been fed through to the alarm box, as will the ultrasonic sensors, though these may not be compatible with a different alarm system. Although the later ultrasonic system works fine with the roof down on my car, I'm sure if the same can be said for the earlier type with the sensors mounted at the top of the windscreen - if you want protection with the roof down, consider a microwave unit - I have a very cheap one on my classic car (which has no door switches) and it creates a bubble around the unit and detects any attempt to reach stuff out of the car - mine is a one stage system, and I'm not a fan of the "talkative" two-stage systems, though I did think about wiring it up to a sound generator to make it say "ribbit!".
Cheers R.
Cheers R.
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
I cannot comment on your proposals or Robert's response - way out of my depth
Of possible interest - I did notice afterwards that the OEM numbers on my units are different to those on OEM drawing. When I searched realoem for my numbers I could find the remote number but not the others.
Yours may agree with the ones shown in this:
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/Z3/Ro ... version_1/
Of possible interest - I did notice afterwards that the OEM numbers on my units are different to those on OEM drawing. When I searched realoem for my numbers I could find the remote number but not the others.
Yours may agree with the ones shown in this:
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/Z3/Ro ... version_1/
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
Thank You Robert, You comments are very helpful. The ultrasonic sensors came with the new alarm system, these are in place at the top of the pillars. I am relieved at not having to search for the immobiliser wiring. It would have been easier if Gemel had used the same colour codes for the wiring as BMW did for the vehicle. There doesn't seem to be a manual available for Z3's, I am using a Haynes manual for series 3's, it is helpful because a lot of the circuits are pretty close but the colours are slightly different, never mind, I've got lots of patience and a multimeter.
Re: Replace Housebrick or is it more serious?
Sounds like you need the ETM (Electrical Troubleshooting Manual). This gives circuit diagrams for tge car. There are several versions, so you need to get the one for earlier cars. Alarm might not be fully doxcmented but central locking should be. Links are in the knowledgebase.
Cheers R.
Sent from my Galaxy SII using Tapatalk 2
Cheers R.
Sent from my Galaxy SII using Tapatalk 2
Arctic Silver '99 Z3 1.9 & Black '59 Frogeye 1275cc