Clunk when changing gears
Clunk when changing gears
My 3.0 makes a clunk when changing up.
More noticeable in lower gears when you put clutch in.
And sometimes when you let it out again.
Doesn't seem to be throttle dependant as can't make it happen without using the clutch.
It could be many things and I have my ideas but anyone had a similar thing?
More noticeable in lower gears when you put clutch in.
And sometimes when you let it out again.
Doesn't seem to be throttle dependant as can't make it happen without using the clutch.
It could be many things and I have my ideas but anyone had a similar thing?
Re: Clunk when changing gears
Have a look at the boot floor might be difficult has been moving
Peter-2b
Peter-2b
Re: Clunk when changing gears
I'd check this (and I'd also check the spelin)Del wrote:Old guibo?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techart ... -Guibo.htm
Also check for loose propshaft bolts or a knackered diff mount.
Pingu
Re: Clunk when changing gears
The car has a tendency for clunky gearchanges. Mine is at its worst when I'm trying to drive like a granny and at its best when 'pressing on' and changes are quick. If you're unfamiliar with the marque perhaps that's all it is? In a similar vein, the diff whines - at least Torsen diffs do. TADTS (they all do that sir!).
Re: Clunk when changing gears
I've had three zeds and driven others, seems they all do it to a lesser or greater degree. Just google it and there's lots written about it! Unless it's really bad it seems you just have to live with it and drive / change gear to suit the car.The long clutch travel doesn't help with smooth changes either and some people fit a longer stop.
I took my first zed to several garages to see if I could get rid of the 'clunk', but got lots of different answers to what it was caused by,usually a combination of several factors.
Thing is it never got any worse and I just changed gear more carefully to compensate. One thing I have noticed is that it seems to be more common on the six cylinder cars.
I took my first zed to several garages to see if I could get rid of the 'clunk', but got lots of different answers to what it was caused by,usually a combination of several factors.
Thing is it never got any worse and I just changed gear more carefully to compensate. One thing I have noticed is that it seems to be more common on the six cylinder cars.
Re: Clunk when changing gears
You've said pretty much word for word what I was going to say, down to the driving like a granny bit.motco wrote:The car has a tendency for clunky gearchanges. Mine is at its worst when I'm trying to drive like a granny and at its best when 'pressing on' and changes are quick. If you're unfamiliar with the marque perhaps that's all it is? In a similar vein, the diff whines - at least Torsen diffs do. TADTS (they all do that sir!).
I've not been driving the 2.2 long and I put it down to me not being use to the extra torque compared with my brother's 1.9. I just give it more revs and it's a lot smoother.
Unless it's this clutch delay valve people down like?
2001 Z3 2.2 Topaz Blue (Trudy) - Keeper rebuilt from a write-off
2002 Z3 2.2 Titan Silver (Cookies) - Keeper rebuilt having been bought with a seized engine
2002 Z3 3.0 Sapphire Black (Peanut) - Keeper awaiting rebuilding having been bought as an abandoned project
Plus Willy, Kodak & Maycee - All 2.2 Sport projects. Yes, 6 is a lot of Z3s
Always happy to try and help with spares
Re: Clunk when changing gears
I removed my clutch delay valve - or at least my indie did for me. It makes no difference to the clunk but does improve the control. If only it had a proper cable throttle it would be perfect.
Re: Clunk when changing gears
It has, but I know that you meant clutch cable .motco wrote:If only it had a proper cable throttle it would be perfect.
Pingu
Re: Clunk when changing gears
Mine has neither a throttle cable nor a clutch cable. I don't have a problem with hydraulic clutches but FbW throttles are the Devil's work. My Westfield has cables for both and non-servo brakes and non-power steering. That really is intimate contact!
BTW Pingu I know you know what I meant...
BTW Pingu I know you know what I meant...
Re: Clunk when changing gears
I was thinking dual mass flywheel.... So it's nice no one said that lol.
It's worse in traffic like u say too..... Something must bang noises don't come from nowhere.
It's worse in traffic like u say too..... Something must bang noises don't come from nowhere.
Re: Clunk when changing gears
I'm about to drop the prop to remove the engine/gearbox from my 2.2 project. So I'll have a look at the guibo when I'm in there.
If that proves easy enough I'll do the same on Trudy but don't really want to dive straight in there as I'm having too much fine just driving her at the moment. And as I say a few more revs cures the problem.
Of course I'll also be able to check if the project 2.2 does the same when I've got it running again.
If that proves easy enough I'll do the same on Trudy but don't really want to dive straight in there as I'm having too much fine just driving her at the moment. And as I say a few more revs cures the problem.
Of course I'll also be able to check if the project 2.2 does the same when I've got it running again.
2001 Z3 2.2 Topaz Blue (Trudy) - Keeper rebuilt from a write-off
2002 Z3 2.2 Titan Silver (Cookies) - Keeper rebuilt having been bought with a seized engine
2002 Z3 3.0 Sapphire Black (Peanut) - Keeper awaiting rebuilding having been bought as an abandoned project
Plus Willy, Kodak & Maycee - All 2.2 Sport projects. Yes, 6 is a lot of Z3s
Always happy to try and help with spares
Re: Clunk when changing gears
Hi
Having eliminated the "Clunk" a couple of time in different cars, my findings have been:
- Loose Flexi drive bolts. Also check for wear on the bolts and out of round of the flange holes. New Bolts and nuts fitted and torqued to specification.
- Damaged flexi drive, replaced flexi drive
- Old rubber clutch slave cylinder hose that was expanding. It would stop the clutch from fully dis-engaging as well as dump the fluid back at soon as you lifted the peddle giving you a sort of "dropped clutch" result. Fitted Stainless steel braided hose and problem solved.
- Worn out clutch and dual mass fly wheel. Pressure plate at the end of its "self adjusting" travel and lots of radial slop in the DMF. Fitted new clutch and DMF and problem solved.
Having eliminated the "Clunk" a couple of time in different cars, my findings have been:
- Loose Flexi drive bolts. Also check for wear on the bolts and out of round of the flange holes. New Bolts and nuts fitted and torqued to specification.
- Damaged flexi drive, replaced flexi drive
- Old rubber clutch slave cylinder hose that was expanding. It would stop the clutch from fully dis-engaging as well as dump the fluid back at soon as you lifted the peddle giving you a sort of "dropped clutch" result. Fitted Stainless steel braided hose and problem solved.
- Worn out clutch and dual mass fly wheel. Pressure plate at the end of its "self adjusting" travel and lots of radial slop in the DMF. Fitted new clutch and DMF and problem solved.
Re: Clunk when changing gears
Hi. I have replaced the clutch, fitted s/s braided hose, rubber drive disc is perfect, drive shaft CV joints OK, and it still bloody clunks. Next job during winter is a complete axle and sub frame bush change, and the differential unit rebuilt. It doesn't say much for BMW engineers producing
so many cars with this problem, and not offering solutions. That's the rant over it is still a fine car.
Flight 3.0i
so many cars with this problem, and not offering solutions. That's the rant over it is still a fine car.
Flight 3.0i
Re: Clunk when changing gears
I think because it's 'German engineering' we have a tendency to think everything should be perfect. But BMW make plenty of howlers. The most recent I heard is the excessive inside edge wear on OE 5GT rear tyres. It's caused by how BMW set the camber up. The outside edge looked find, it's difficult to see the inside edge and tyres were going pop as they wore through to the cord after doing 8,000 miles. In fact I think many BMWs have that problem. I was interested in a 5GT until I heard about that.
And don't get me started on VWs which I've had for 17 years but have now seen the light...
It's Japanese if you want as close to perfection as is possible.
I think we just have to accept the odd quirk. But it is a shame when you've replaced so many parts.
And don't get me started on VWs which I've had for 17 years but have now seen the light...
It's Japanese if you want as close to perfection as is possible.
I think we just have to accept the odd quirk. But it is a shame when you've replaced so many parts.
2001 Z3 2.2 Topaz Blue (Trudy) - Keeper rebuilt from a write-off
2002 Z3 2.2 Titan Silver (Cookies) - Keeper rebuilt having been bought with a seized engine
2002 Z3 3.0 Sapphire Black (Peanut) - Keeper awaiting rebuilding having been bought as an abandoned project
Plus Willy, Kodak & Maycee - All 2.2 Sport projects. Yes, 6 is a lot of Z3s
Always happy to try and help with spares
Re: Clunk when changing gears
Chock front wheelsFlight wrote:Hi. I have replaced the clutch, fitted s/s braided hose, rubber drive disc is perfect, drive shaft CV joints OK, and it still bloody clunks. Next job during winter is a complete axle and sub frame bush change, and the differential unit rebuilt. It doesn't say much for BMW engineers producing
so many cars with this problem, and not offering solutions. That's the rant over it is still a fine car.
Flight 3.0i
Lift rear of car
Support suspension in normal running position
Chock one wheel so it won't rotate
Put car in gear
Remove belly plates so you can see propshaft and rear of gearbox
"Rock" the free wheel and look for play.
Lock the free wheel and "rock the other wheel.
Last resort (and do this as safely as possible)...
With the car still in the air
Unchock both rear wheels.
Select Neutral.
Start engine.
Engage 1st gear and carefully engage the clutch. The clutch shouldn't judder unless there is a problem. The wheels will rotate at around 10-15mph
Get someone else to blip throttle (Don't exceed 30mph on speedo or the speedo will stop working). Vision is very limited if you do it, but it is possible. Use a camera if you can't get any help.
Check for noises and excessive movement.
Pingu
Re: Clunk when changing gears
Thanks for replies. More I drive it the more it's definitely front of car.
And first is a little hard to get sometimes so it's interesting about the clutch hose comment.
My guess is I've got two things going on.
And first is a little hard to get sometimes so it's interesting about the clutch hose comment.
My guess is I've got two things going on.
Re: Clunk when changing gears
If first or reverse is hard to select first thing with a cold car, do the following test.
Engine running, try to select first or reverse.
If its difficult to get in, hold the shifter with the same force, but don't force it into gear.
Turn the engine off and keep the same force on the shifter.
- If it just drops into gear when the engine stops turning, then you have a clutch problem where it's not fully dis-engaging.
- If it doesn't drop into gear when the engine stops, then you have a gear box problem, most likely being shift pins
Most likely causes of the clutch problem are:
- Rubber slave hose expanding
- Air in slave cylinder
- Worn clutch peddle plactic bushings
- Worn out clutch
Engine running, try to select first or reverse.
If its difficult to get in, hold the shifter with the same force, but don't force it into gear.
Turn the engine off and keep the same force on the shifter.
- If it just drops into gear when the engine stops turning, then you have a clutch problem where it's not fully dis-engaging.
- If it doesn't drop into gear when the engine stops, then you have a gear box problem, most likely being shift pins
Most likely causes of the clutch problem are:
- Rubber slave hose expanding
- Air in slave cylinder
- Worn clutch peddle plactic bushings
- Worn out clutch