Touching up paint chips

Rob Tan · Post by **Rob Tan** » Fri 01 Jan, 2010 22:02

I've got a number of chips on bumper and bonnet, and want to paint them. What's the best way to touch them up?

KingCarl · Post by **KingCarl** » Tue 27 Apr, 2010 20:16

i use a simple touch-up paint like a nail varnish size bottle and brush - $30 from a local spraypainter - just take in the german colour code off the inside of the engine bay and they knock it up!

indizee · Post by **indizee** » Tue 27 Apr, 2010 20:27

You can get a full chip repair kit from Paint4U online. Give them a ring. Very helpful and they mix the paint to your colour code. All for 13 quid, includes 2000 grade wet and dry and applicators/ rubbing compound.

Ive been using it the past few days on my bonnet. Perfect results.

Titan · Post by **Titan** » Tue 27 Apr, 2010 20:31

Hi Rob
I don't think there is an easy answer to this.
No matter what you do, the repair will almost inevitably be visible.
I've seen people filling the "holes" with drops of paint on the end of cocktail sticks or rolled up masking tape, but unless you have "solid" colour, the imperfection can still be seen.
The important factor is to get the surface sealed to prevent future corrosion.
There is quite a good guide HERE

TitanTim · Post by **TitanTim** » Tue 27 Apr, 2010 20:48

All cars seem to suffer these days

they need some proper paint instead of the water based rubbish. I usually find a cocktail stick helps for small chips or a small modellers brush for the larger ones and my nails

Never use the brush that comes with a paint stick as they're never upto the job.

Tim.

Rob Tan · Post by **Rob Tan** » Tue 27 Apr, 2010 20:56

Your responses are very timely as I have not yet done this task and have been thinking about it again lately.

I know I won't get a perfect finish, but I want them touched up so they don't stand out so much, and so that the metal underneath is better protected.

Your guidance and advice greatly appreciated!

as400 · Post by **as400** » Mon 16 Aug, 2010 11:32

TitanTim wrote:All cars seem to suffer these days they need some proper paint instead of the water based rubbish. I usually find a cocktail stick helps for small chips or a small modellers brush for the larger ones and my nails Never use the brush that comes with a paint stick as they're never upto the job.

Tim.

It's interesting that you say proper paint instead of water based, do you mean a lead based paint?

Is it possible to get a bonnet respray in such a paint? It may be a good long term investment as this area is so prone to chips?

TitanTim · Post by **TitanTim** » Mon 16 Aug, 2010 19:10

as400 wrote:
TitanTim wrote:All cars seem to suffer these days they need some proper paint instead of the water based rubbish. I usually find a cocktail stick helps for small chips or a small modellers brush for the larger ones and my nails Never use the brush that comes with a paint stick as they're never upto the job.

Tim.
It's interesting that you say proper paint instead of water based, do you mean a lead based paint?

Is it possible to get a bonnet respray in such a paint? It may be a good long term investment as this area is so prone to chips?

Not sure to be honest,

I think it was called 2 pack celulose, anyways it seemed harder wearing than the latest paints. I would imagine due to the age of most Z3s now all will be pre waterbased paints so should me more durable. I don't know what paint types bodyshops use these days, they may have to use water based paints too?

Tim.

Geoff H · Post by **Geoff H** » Mon 16 Aug, 2010 21:22

2 pack and cellulose are 2 different types of paint. You can still get them, but not many paint shops want to use them, there are a lot of new regulations to what/how paint is used, as you say its all water based paints now

spraydav · Post by **spraydav** » Tue 17 Aug, 2010 00:15

The waterbased element used in bodyshops these days is the basecoat or colour part of the process and doesn't effect the durability of the final finish, this comes from the 2-pack lacquer or clearcoat applied once the water has been dried off. quality clears provide better durability and chip resistance, but as the old saying goes, you get what you pay for so if you are going for respray make sure you use top quality branded clears.
Stonechips will nearly always be visible when touched up as stated above but will prevent rusting while saving for resprays

El Reacho · Post by **El Reacho** » Tue 21 Sep, 2010 12:27

Hi - I've a few chips and scrathes I need to repair so I was going to give this a go:

http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails. ... uctID=6912

Does anyone happen to know if this sanding then polishing method happens to work on body-cloured bumpers? Not too sure if the sanding marks can be polished out if their in the plastic.

Thanks.

trigg35 · Post by **trigg35** » Tue 21 Sep, 2010 17:22

dont think it will matter whats under the paint.i have used the wet and dry method before to remove light scratches.it removes a fine layer of lacquer.you are not meant to rub back to bare metal/plastic.depends how deep your scratch is.when someone keyed my last car i tried to build up layers in the scratch with an artists brush.by the time id put on a few coats and sanded it i wondered why i bothered.it looked shocking and highlighted the scratch.bought another door on ebay from a guy breaking a mondeo -same year and same colour code.put it on stood back.different colour! it was only slightly out but i could see it was plainly different in certain lights/from certain angles.never happens on wheeler dealers when they put another panel on!

Althulas · Post by **Althulas** » Tue 21 Sep, 2010 21:44

Did anyone manage to see the http://www.chipex.co.uk/ demo at Gaydon? I not have the time to see the demo but the rep did say that close up you might be able to see the repair but from a stand off hard to detect.