Flat battery.
Flat battery.
Hello all.
Happy Christmas.
Quick question. Trying to open doors on a Z1 in which battery is completely flat. Any suggestions.
Question answered by trolling through old posts..........thanks.
Joe.
Happy Christmas.
Quick question. Trying to open doors on a Z1 in which battery is completely flat. Any suggestions.
Question answered by trolling through old posts..........thanks.
Joe.
Re: Flat battery.
Merry Christmas everyone.j_omcc wrote:Hello all.
Happy Christmas.
Joe.
Opening Doors
Merry Christmas !!
I have a suggestion for you…
You move the light in the your rear case and you connect a battery with cable on the connectors of your rear light of case then now, you can open your doors normally !!...
Then you put on your Z1 a new battery and everything is all right…
Bye, Bye
Z1 for the best...
I have a suggestion for you…
You move the light in the your rear case and you connect a battery with cable on the connectors of your rear light of case then now, you can open your doors normally !!...
Then you put on your Z1 a new battery and everything is all right…
Bye, Bye
Z1 for the best...
Flat Battery
Dont if you have heard of this saw today in car shop a lead you plug into your cig lighter socket and the other end has same plug you plug into other car cig lighter socket to jump start your car if battery is flat??
With a completely flat battery yoy cant open the door as per normal as it needs electricity...
So only the method I described can be used if the roof is closed as well...
I installed an accumate with connector, always fresh supply of juice and the cable can jsut run underneath the softop to the out side....
Robert
So only the method I described can be used if the roof is closed as well...
I installed an accumate with connector, always fresh supply of juice and the cable can jsut run underneath the softop to the out side....
Robert
If the car is secure in a garage it is simple enough to connect the battery to an Accumate battery conditioner and simply leave it connected. You can buy a connecting socket which is permanently attached to the battery terminals. See below for the Z! and the TVR where the battery is buried behind the front bulkhead in the passenger footwell.
You can then clip the Accumate into the socket and route the wire out of the rear removable bulkhead into the boot or through the door provided you leave the window or door down. The Accumate units do get rather warm so I would not leave it on the seat or carpet.
http://www.accumate.co.uk/accumate.htm
You can then clip the Accumate into the socket and route the wire out of the rear removable bulkhead into the boot or through the door provided you leave the window or door down. The Accumate units do get rather warm so I would not leave it on the seat or carpet.
http://www.accumate.co.uk/accumate.htm
Re the door opening, it is simple: Make sure that it is unlocker (key as usual) and just push the door button right in. You'll hear the loud 'clunk' as the mechanical lock disengages and the door should mover very slightly downward under its own weight, but stop there (motor and belt resistance). Gentlypush downward on the top surface of the outer panel (can be done with roof up or down) and the door will gradually move downward and the window down into it. This allows ingress. Getting the door up without power is a lot more like hard work, but can be done - better to wait till the battery has juice in it once more though.
Re cut-out switches: My car had one when I got it. It was mounted on the battery cover panel. However, it is very tight behind the panel with the battery itself, door control modules and so on and the leads to my switch were not securely enough connected and were worryingly loose. The car occasionally would cut out on me when not expected as a result of this and also the whole thing looked very prone to shorting out so I removed it and put it back to standard. I have been rethinking about it and think the safest and most sensible way of installing one would be to run leads back to by the little panel in the lhs of the boot where the jack and so on are stowed and have a cut-out mounted there. That keeps it out of the car altogether and means it can be accessed with the doors safely closed and locked. In the interior position mine was originally it meant that you could only disconnect if you were happy to leave the door open (no power to motor it shut), which seemed to be very limiting and not much use!
Hope this helps you both.
Re cut-out switches: My car had one when I got it. It was mounted on the battery cover panel. However, it is very tight behind the panel with the battery itself, door control modules and so on and the leads to my switch were not securely enough connected and were worryingly loose. The car occasionally would cut out on me when not expected as a result of this and also the whole thing looked very prone to shorting out so I removed it and put it back to standard. I have been rethinking about it and think the safest and most sensible way of installing one would be to run leads back to by the little panel in the lhs of the boot where the jack and so on are stowed and have a cut-out mounted there. That keeps it out of the car altogether and means it can be accessed with the doors safely closed and locked. In the interior position mine was originally it meant that you could only disconnect if you were happy to leave the door open (no power to motor it shut), which seemed to be very limiting and not much use!
Hope this helps you both.
Best regards,
Sam Lever.
Anyone who says money isn't everything hasn't found the right classic car yet.
Z1 - 3.0csl - 987 Boxster - Austin 7 Special - Rolls 20 - '72 911 - '95 318is
Black Sport Evo M3 & SG M3 CSL - now someone else's pleasure
Blue 2800cs - now someone else's pain
Old cars - the original "Not for Profit" organisation
Independent Financial Adviser in Buckingham
My Financial Blog
Sam Lever.
Anyone who says money isn't everything hasn't found the right classic car yet.
Z1 - 3.0csl - 987 Boxster - Austin 7 Special - Rolls 20 - '72 911 - '95 318is
Black Sport Evo M3 & SG M3 CSL - now someone else's pleasure
Blue 2800cs - now someone else's pain
Old cars - the original "Not for Profit" organisation
Independent Financial Adviser in Buckingham
My Financial Blog
Sam has hit this one on the head. Any cut off switch has to be accessed via the boot
I did toy with the idea of mounting it in the corner space in front of the spare wheel where it could be accessed from the hood cover when top down or the boot by reaching over the wheel. Convenient, but not secure as the hood cover cannot be locked with the hood down.
The switch needs to be small, this one would fit.
http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct. ... de=020.232
I did toy with the idea of mounting it in the corner space in front of the spare wheel where it could be accessed from the hood cover when top down or the boot by reaching over the wheel. Convenient, but not secure as the hood cover cannot be locked with the hood down.
The switch needs to be small, this one would fit.
http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct. ... de=020.232
Only limitation with this one is that you'd ideally want one with a removable knob Don't mean to be smutty, but it means the car is effectively immobilised as well, wich can't be a bad thing?
Best regards,
Sam Lever.
Anyone who says money isn't everything hasn't found the right classic car yet.
Z1 - 3.0csl - 987 Boxster - Austin 7 Special - Rolls 20 - '72 911 - '95 318is
Black Sport Evo M3 & SG M3 CSL - now someone else's pleasure
Blue 2800cs - now someone else's pain
Old cars - the original "Not for Profit" organisation
Independent Financial Adviser in Buckingham
My Financial Blog
Sam Lever.
Anyone who says money isn't everything hasn't found the right classic car yet.
Z1 - 3.0csl - 987 Boxster - Austin 7 Special - Rolls 20 - '72 911 - '95 318is
Black Sport Evo M3 & SG M3 CSL - now someone else's pleasure
Blue 2800cs - now someone else's pain
Old cars - the original "Not for Profit" organisation
Independent Financial Adviser in Buckingham
My Financial Blog
The wifes car has a cutout switch fitted in the boot.
The cable can be felt under the carpet though.
When it comes to charging I always connect a charger via the junction box under the bonnet, my car has a condition charger fitted here as the alarm drains the battery quickly.
The cable can be felt under the carpet though.
When it comes to charging I always connect a charger via the junction box under the bonnet, my car has a condition charger fitted here as the alarm drains the battery quickly.
________________
1990 Red Z1 (Gone back to the motherland)
1991 Green Z1 (stolen by the wife)
1990 Red Z1 (Gone back to the motherland)
1991 Green Z1 (stolen by the wife)
Mr T, this needs 240v input I guess? I dont have a supply in the garage.BBZ149 wrote:Just get one of these battery conditioners and connect the terminals to the battery and extend the socket to the boot Job done. Well thats what I do anyway, as mine is left on all winter
Ivor, presumably the cutout simply reduces the drain by removing any dependencies, any indicators how long a typical battery would last if you cut the drain in cold weather, any marketing figures?a1z1 wrote:The wifes car has a cutout switch fitted in the boot. The cable can be felt under the carpet though.
Jet wrote: Ivor, presumably the cutout simply reduces the drain by removing any dependencies, any indicators how long a typical battery would last if you cut the drain in cold weather, any marketing figures?
Jamal,
Depending on the type of battery, it has natural self-discharge or internal electrochemical leakage at a 1% to 15% rate per month that will cause it to fully discharged over time. Higher temperatures accelerate this process. A battery stored at 95° F (35° C) will self discharge twice as fast than one at 75° F (23.9° C).
It needs recharging when it reaches 80%.Heat damages a battery and cold reduces capacity.
________________
1990 Red Z1 (Gone back to the motherland)
1991 Green Z1 (stolen by the wife)
1990 Red Z1 (Gone back to the motherland)
1991 Green Z1 (stolen by the wife)